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COPYI^IGMT DEPOSIT. 



EVERY WOMAN'S 

Home Cook Book 

An Economical, Practical Guide 

FOR THE 

TWENTIETH CENTURY HOUSEKEEPER 

CONTAINING 

A Most Complete Collection of the Best 
Culinary Receipts with Full Instruct- 
ions for Successfully Using Them 




COMPILED BY 

FLORENCE CROSBY PARSONS 



The L. W. Walter Company 
PUBLISHERS 

Chicago 



Copyright 1911 

BY 

THE L. W. WALTER COMPANY 
Chicago 



©CI.A3()o939 



PUBLISHER'S PREFACE 



In offering the American Housewife and Mother, this New Receipt 
Book, we believe we are filling a demand. There are many works on this 
subject, but most of them contain receipts which are too expensive for the 
average home, and so this practical and economical guide will surely be 
welcomed. We have not attempted display; our only aim being to furnish 
wide counsel. 

It is a fact that there is a recognized need of a new book treating on 
Scientific and Hygienic Cooking; one that will prove an aid to health 
and happiness in each household: hence, the production of this volume. 
It has been prepared with great care. Every recipe has been tried and 
tested^ and can be relied upon as one of the best of its kind. 

It embodies several original and commendable features, among which 
may be mentioned a menu for each meal of the year, also for special 
occasions, thus covering all varieties of seasonable food. A department 
has been given to the uses of "The Chafing Dish," that useful adjunct to 
the lunch table, the small evening gathering, or light housekeeping. 
A treatise on Hygienic and Scientific Cooking. "Care of the Sick," 
"Marketing," "Carving," and all departments of housekeeping have 
received their due share of attention. The convenient classification and 
arrangement of topics and the simplified method of explanation in pre- 
paring the article in the order of manipulation enables the most inex- 
perienced to clearly comprehend it. 

Economical and modern methods of living have been paramount in 
the compiler's mind in designing and preparing this work, consequently, 
we have a trusty guide for those plucky housewives who must clothe, feed 
and house their families on a moderate allowance. To these housekeepers, 
these home-builders, it is that such books as this are dedicated, and among 
these it is that they find their welcome. Not sought in the home where 
there is no cook book ,for there their value is unktiozun; but in the home where 
there are many such guides it is that each nezo arrival comes as a herald 
of sojucthing better and more helpful in the realm of cookery . And meet 
it is that all possible help be given to those who feed our bodies, for 
thereby they strengthen and uplift our souls, also. 

Says Haryot Holt Cahoon: "Ask a woman what cooking means. It 
means the patience of Job, and the persistence of the PiJgrim Fathers. 
It means the endurance, the long-suffering, and the martyrdom of Joan 
of Arc. It means the steaming, and the stewing, and the baking, and 
the broiling, thrice daily, springs, summers, autumns, and winters, year 
after year, decade following decade. It means perspiration, despera- 
tion and resignation. It means a crown and a harp, and a clear title to 
an estate in heaven. From her judgment and reason tlie cook must 
evolve triumphs that depend upon salt and pepper, sugar and herbs. 
She must know how soon and how long and how much and how often. 
She must know quality and quantity and cost. She must scr\'e the 
butcher and the baker and the candlestick-maker. Then she must rise 
above it all and be a lady — a loaf-giver." 

To be able to cope with difficulties, should the necessity arise, is the 
duty of most women. Nothing will enable them to do so more certainly 
than a thorough knowledge of the general principles and methods and 
the carrying out of these in the preparation of the homeliest meal. 

THE PUBLISHERS. 



" Man cannot live by bread alone,** 
He wants his menu good. 
He wants a wife who's not above 
Preparing dainty food. 

The way, then, to the hearts of men 

(turn's not the only sinner) 
!s by a cleanly, well-set board, 

And by a weH-cooked dmner. 

'* Good cooks are born, not made," they say. 
The saymg's nK)St untrue. 
Hard trymg, and these prime recipes 
WM make good cooks of you. 

E. B. C. 




THE mottx) of the New York Cooking Academy is : •< Since 
we must eat to live, let us prepare our food in such a min- 
ner that our physical, intellectual and moral capacities may be ex- 
tended as far as desired by our Creator," and with this object in 
mind, bread, as the "staff of life," will be first considered, amd 
especial attention given to its great variety and the necesaary 
processes through which it passes in preparation for usa 

Flour made from wheat, and meal from oats and Indian com, 
are rich in the waste-repairing elements, starch and albumen, and 
man is necessarily dependent upon them to a degree much greater 
than commonly supposed. 

Wheat and flour contain gluten in diflferent proportion to the 
many varieties. Flour in which gluten abounds will absorb more 
liquid than that which contains a greater amount of starch, and is 
therefore stronger, that is, will make more bread to a given quan- 
tity. Gluten is a flesh, and starch a heat producer, in the nutri- 
tive processes of the body. 

Neither gluten nor starch dissolve in cold water. Gluten is a 
grayish, tough, elastic substance, and flour containing it in a fair 
quantity adheres to the hand when compressed, and shows the im- 
print of the skin, but starchy flour crumbles and lacks the adhe- 
sive property. 

Milk or water used in mixing bread softens the gluten and ce- 
ments the particles of flour, preparatory to the action of the car- 
bonic acid gas. In bread made from yeast this gas and alcohol 
are foimed by the fermentation of the yeast, combining with the 



8 BKEAD, 

sugar in the flour as well as the sugar added to the flour. The 
expansion, caused by the efl'orts of the gas to escape through the 
strong elastic walls of the cells of gluten, changes the solid dough 
into a light, spongy mass. The kneading process distributes the 
yeast thoroughly through the dough, making the grain firm and 
even. 

In baking, the heat breaks the starch cells, renders the gluten 
tender, converts the water into steam, the alcohol into vapor, and 
increases the size of the loaf through the expansion of the car- 
bonic acid gas, though one-sixth of its weight is lost by this evap- 
oration. It is now "food convenient" for all. 

Opinions differ as to the comparative merits of fine flour, gra- 
ham, and entn-e wheat flour bread. That made from the former 
gains its whiteness and fineness at the expense of its nutritious 
properties, the part of the grain furnishing them being largel}' 
eliminated through the special manufacturing process, but bread 
made wholly or in part from the two latter varieties is proportion- 
ately nourishing, strengthening, and easily digested. 

The common or "straight" brands of flour are used by the 
great majority of families, and from each of them good, pdatable 
and uniform bread can be made. Good bread makes the home- 
liest meal acceptable, and there is no one thing so necessary to 
the health and comfort of a family. In selecting flour buy that of 
a cream tint, that will not work into a sticky mass when damp- 
ened by the fingers, that will not fall like powder if thrown against 
a smooth surface, and that will retain, as before stated, the im 
pression of the hand when compressed within it. 

Flour should be kept dr^^, cool, and entirely beyond the reach 
of vermin, big or little, for the tiny meal moth is far more to be 
dreaded than rats or mice. Buy at first, if possible, a barrel of 
flour ; the barrel will prove a good investment for the future, as 
all smaller purchases of flour can be emptied into it. Let it stand 
on four blocks of wood, thus ensuring a current of fresh air be- 
neath it. 

Do not buy less than one hundred pounds, for cleanness and 
economy's sake, unless obliged to use the flour and meal bins 
buiJt into many pantries of the modern houses. If so, buy a 



BREAD. 9 

snnallcr amount, as these bins, being more difficult to care for, 
need frequent attention. Ever}^ receptacle of flour should be 
often and thoroughly cleansed, to guard against animal as well as 
vegetable parasites. Never put into the flour, for even a day, a 
roll of dough or pastry for later use. A single speck of mold, 
coming from any cause, will leaven the whole flour as rapidly and 
strongly as ten times its weight in yeast. 

All kinds of flour and meal, except buckwheat and graham — 
and graham, if very coarse — need sifting, and should be bought in 
small quantities, as they become damp and mustj' by long stand- 
ing. After sifting flour or meal, be very careful to empty the 
sieve before putting it back into the barrel or bin. 

Good flour, good yeast and watchful care are indispensable to 
successful bread-making. A large, seamless tin pan, with han- 
dles and a tight-fitting cover, should be kept for bread-making 
only, and thoroughlj- washed and scalded whenever used. A 
crockery bowl holding from eight to twelve quarts can be used, if 
preferred, but must be closely covered by a well-folded cloth. 

Bread should undergo but one, the saccharine or sweet fer- 
mentation ; if it passes to the second, the vinous or alcoholic fer- 
mentation, the larger part of the nutritious properties of the flour 
are destroyed ; if it reaches the third, or acetous stage, the bread 
is soured and utterl}^ unfit for use. Never use sour yeast. The 
temperature of the bread in rising should be blood warm ; if less, 
it is liable to sour ; if greater, it may be scalded, or become full 
of large pores and lose its firm, smooth grain. It is as important 
for the dough to rise as well after being made out mto loaves, 
rolls, or biscuits as before ; therefore allow a sufficient time for 
rising, and cover over the tops of the pans with a bread-cloth, 
removing it a few moments before baking. A good general rule 
to follow is this : If well kneaded down, let the loaf double its 
size in rising ; if only partially kneaded, let it rise but one-half. 
Much depends on the flour, the heat of the day and the previous 
rising, but personal judgment and experience must guide at this 
point as well as others. 

Before putting the loaves into the oven prick them in three 
places with a steel fork, that part of the gas generated in rising 



10 BREAD. 

may escape and prevent the possibility of too great expansion in 
baking, which would make the texture of the bread coarse and 
open instead of smooth and fine. In baking, keep the oven at a 
uniform temperature, except that the heat may slacken a very 
little toward the last. The oven is of good heat if flour will 
brown in it at the end of a minute. 

The best pan for baking bread is made of Russia iron, which 
costs but little more than tin, and is much more durable. Let it 
be five by ten or twelve inches on the bottom, flaring a little to 
the top, and four and one-half inches deep. It should be well, 
though lightl}^, greased. One hour is the average time for baking, 
though much depends on the action of the stove. See that the 
fire is so regulated as not to need replenishing during the hour. 
The finest bread may be completely spoiled in the baking, and a 
freshly-made fire cannot be easily regulated. Open the oven door 
as seldom as possible, and close it carefully. If necessary, the 
pan may be gently turned around, after twenty minutes. The 
heat of the oven should be steady, but if from any cause it be- 
comes too great put a pan of cold water on the upper slide, or 
turn a pan over the loaf, or cover it with a piece of clean, brown 
paper. A slide, or a low, flat tin may be put under the pans. 

If bread or cake is well and sufficiently baked, there will be no 
sound of cracking in the loaf when quickly held to the ear ; a 
broom splinter passed into it will come out as dry and free as at 
first. A loaf can be held on the hand without burning the palm. 
The bread will also have the odor of fresh, sweet flour. 

On a clean shelf or table, near the window, lay a well-folded 
linen cloth, an old table-cloth will serve nicely, and as the well 
browned loaves come from the oven, either lay them upon it or 
slightly tip them, one just touching the other, and leave them un- 
covered till cool. If preferred, a cloth can cover them. Never, 
on any account, put the warm loaves on wood or stone. 

Should the bread be baked too hard, rub the loaf with fresh 
butter ; then cover it with a clean brown paper, laying a cloth 
over that. 

When thoroughly cool, the bread must be put into a close-cov- 
ered stone jar, or tin box, which should be well scalded and dried 



BREAD. 11 

each baking day. If a jar is used tie a heavy linen cloth, twice 
folded at least, over the top, which should be some inches above 
the bread. On a hot, windy day in summer, having considerable 
unused bread on hand, take a cup of cold water, and sprinkle well 
the cloth, so that the bread maj^ be kept fresh and moist. If a 
heavy line of chalk is drawn around the jar, no insects will crawl 
over it. In cutting warm bread for the table, heat the knife, and 
it is better to replenish the bread plate than to have slices left 
over to dry or waste. 

Rolls and biscuit should bake quicklj^ Baking powder and 
soda biscuit should be made rapidly, placed in hot pans, and put 
into a quick oven. Let gem pans be well heated and greased. 
If stone cups are to be used, see that they are well greased and 
very hot. 

Be very careful to use the best baking powder, and always sif-t 
it with the flour. Use bi-carbonate of soda, not saleratus, in cook- 
ing. Take two parts of cream of tartar to one of soda, if sweet milk 
is used in cooking. Free the powder from lumps, and either sift 
well the cream of tartar and soda with the flour, or the cream of 
tartar alone, and dissolve the soda in the milk b}^ beating it for one 
minute. Soda should be dissolved in the same manner in sour 
milk. Alwa3's use yellow corn meal in every recipe where meal is 
called for, unless the white is specified. 

In measuring, a * table3poon is the size of an ordinary silver 
tablespoon. A teaspoon means a spoon rounded above, as the 
bowl is below ; a heaping spoon what can be added to the 
rounded measure, and a level measure is just even with the 
sides of the spoon. A half teaspoon divides the length and not 
the breadth of the spoon. A salt six)on is equivalent to one quar- 
ter of a teaspoon. One cup of yeast is equivalent to one yeast 
cake. 

•Whenever, in tliis })ook, the words cupful, coffee cupful, tea cupful, table* 
spooulul, etc., occur, the teruiiuation *' ful '^ is dropped, for tije sake of brevity. 



12 YEAST. 

YEAST. 

Yeast is naturally a most unstable sort of commodit}^, but 
its main characteristic is that upon the very slightest proA'^ocation 
it will rise. During one week it contradicted its usual methods 
and shrunk in a most amazing wa}^ One Saturday it sold for 
twenty cents a pound, the next Monday it sold for five cents a 
pound, and in a few days rose again to twenty cents a pound. In- 
vestigation into the cause of the fluctuation in price revealed the 
existence of a double-riveted trust, which controls the price of 
yeast and holds it at a figure which pays the members of the trust 
a handsome profit. A pound of jeast cut into squares wrapped in 
tinfoil will make forty cakes, which are sold by the manufacturer 
at one cent each and retail for two cents. The consumer of this 
yeast then pays eighty cents a pound. The profit is sixty-eight 
cents, of which the retailer makes forty and the manufacturer 
twentj'-eight cents. Compressed yeast is made from whiskies, 
vinegars, and low wines, and could be retailed at fifteen cents a 
pound, with a fair margin of profit for manufacturer and retailer. 

It is econom}', therefore, to use homemade yeast. Here are a 
few good recipes : 

YEAST— 1. 

1 quart sliced potatoes, 3^ cup yeast, 

1 large handful hops, J^ cup sugar, 

1 tablespoon ginger, ^ cup salt, 

2 quarts water. 
Put hops and ginger in a bag to boil 15 minutes. Then 
take out hops, and add potatoes. Boil till they can be passed 
easily through a sieve. Mix with the salt, sugar and water in a 
Jar. When cool add j^east, tie a cloth over the top and set in a 
warm place to rise. This j^east will keep good three weeks in a 
cool place. 

YEAST — 2. 
6 potatoes, medium, 3 tablespoons salt, 

Small handful hops, 3 tablespoons sugar, 

1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon ginger, 

1 cup yeast. Water to make 2 quarts. 

Put the ginger and hops into a bag, drop into the boiling water ; 
let boil for 15 minutes. Cook the potatoes, mash, and mix 



YEAST. 13 

tbem well with the flour to which has been added the sugar and 
salt. Over all pour the boiling hop water, and beat till the mix- 
ture is smooth. Turn into a stone jar, and when cool add ihe 
yeast. Set in a warm place to rise. This will be sweet and good 
for some weeks if kept in a cool, dark place. Omit the hops, use 
the boiling ginger water to scald the flour, and this rule makes a 
nice potiito ^^east. 

No other yeast is made with so little trouble as potato yeast 
Bread made from it keeps moist longer, and there is no danger oi 
injuring its flavor by using too much. 

YEAST — 3. 
6 potatoes, medium, 1 tablespoon salt, 

X cup suj^ar, }4 cup yeast. 

Boil potatoes till done, mash very fine or press through a sieve, 
pour on the water they were boiled in, add the sugar and salt, and 
when lukewarm stir in the yeast. It should now be quite thin ; 
let rise, and keep in a cool place, but where it will not freeze. A 
lairge oupful makes eight or nine loaves of bread. 

YEAST 4. 

6 potatoes, 1 tablespoon salt, 

Small handful hops, 2 tablespoons molasses, 

K c^'P yeast, 2 quarts water. 

Tie the hops in a bag and boil with the potatoes in 2 quarts 
of water. Take out potatoes, mash fine and pour the water over 
them ; add salt, molasses, and thicken with flour. When cool, add 
yeast or 1 yeast cake dissolved in water. Cover, and set near 
the fire. Keep in a jar in a cool place. This must not freeze. 

YEAST — 5. 

6 potatoes, 1 handful hops, 

2 tablespoons salt, 1 cup yeast, 

1 cup flour, X Gup sugar, 
1 quart water. 

Put the hops into a bag and boil 15 minutes. Pour the hop 
water over the flour, add the potatoes, having rubbed through a 
colander. Stir well after adding sugar and salt ; when cool, add 
3'ea.st or a j-east cake, which has been soaked. This yeast keeps 
well two weeks. 



BECIPES FOR MAKINa BREAD. 

mother's bread. 

Put about 2 quarts of flour into a pan, and pour boiling 
water over it until nearly all the flour is wet. Stir the flour while 
pouring in the water. Now add 1 pint of cold water, and beat 
well. Let it stand until lukewarm, then add 1 cup of No. 1 
yeast, butter the size of an egg and ^ teaspoon soda, and flour to 
make a stiff batter. Turn it out on the moulding board and work 
in more flour by slashing it with a sharp knife. Slash and add 
flour, and knead una) the dough is stiff and smooth. Too much 
flour cannot be worked into it. Let it stand until morning, then 
knead it down without removing it from the pan. After break- 
fast, turn it out on the board, and knead it for 10 minutes, then 
put it back and let it rise as much as possible without smelling 
like wine, then make it into loaves. When the loaves are light, 
they should be put into a hot oven, which is allowed to cool grad- 
ually until the bread is done. Bread made in this way will keep 
fresh a long time. 

BREAD RAISED ONCE. 

1 quart water, 1 pint potato yeast, 

3 quarts Hour, 2 teaspoons salt. 

To make 3 loaves of bread, sift the flour into the pan, add 

salt and pour in slowly the water, lukewarm ; afterward add yeast, 

stirring constantly. If hop yeast is used take 1 cup, or, if pre- 

f-eired, 1 cake compressed 3'east dissolved in tepid water. Mix 

14 



BREAD. 15 

thoroughly, adding flour, until a stiff dough is formed ; place on 
the bread-board, knead vigorously for 20 minutes or more, 
flouring the board frequently to prevent the dough from sticking 
to it, divide into loaves of a size to suit pans, mould into a comely 
shape, place in pans, rub over the top a light coating of sweet, 
drawn butter, set in a warm, not too hot place to rise, cover 
lightl}' to keep off dust and air, watch and occasionally turn the 
pans around when necessar}^ to make the loaves rise evenly ; when 
risen to about double the original size, draw across the top of each 
lengthwise with a sharp knife, making a slit half an inch deep, 
place them in a moderatel}'' heated oven, and bake 1 hour, 
watching carefull}' from time to time to make certain that a 
proper degree of heat is kept up. Before browning they will rise 
to double the size of loaf which was placed in the oven, and pans 
must be provided deep enough to retain them in shape. Bake 
until well done and nicely browned, Nothing adds more to the 
sweetness and digestibility of wheaten bread than thorough baking. 
When done, remove from pans immediately, to prevent the sweat- 
ing and softening of the crust. 

BREAD RAISED TWICE. 
4 quarts flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon salt, 

1 pint water, 1 tablespoon lard, 

1 cup yeast. 
Measure out the flour, take out a pint in a cup, and place re- 
mainder in a breadpan. Make a well in the middle, into which 
turn sugar, salt, and yeast ; then mix in milk which has been 
made bloodwarm by adding the boiling water; beat well with a 
strong spoon, add lard, knead for 20 or 30 minutes, and let rise 
over night; in the morning knead again, make into loaves, let 
them rise 1 hour, and bake 50 minutes. Water may be used in- 
stead of the pint of milk, in which case use twice as much lard. 

BREAD RAISED THREE TIMES. 
1 quart flour, 1 cup yeast, 

4 pints water, }4 cup sugar, 

8 potatoes, >^ cup lard, 

1 tablespoon salt. 
In planning for G loaves, begin about 5 p. m. Take yeast, 



16 BREAD 

No. 2, add the flour and tepid water, beat together thoroughly, 
and set in a warm place. This should rise in about 2 hours; 
and when nearly light, take 6 or 8 medium sized potatoes, 
pare neatly, rinse clean, and boil in 3 pints of water till well 
done mash very fine in the water while hot. Have ready a bread- 
pan of sifted flour, into which put salt, sugar, and lard ; then 
riddle the potato mash, hot as it is, through a sieve or fine colan- 
der into the flour, and stir into a stiff dough. This scalds about 
half the flour used in the batch of bread. This mass must cool 
till it will not scald the 3- east, which may now be mixed in and 
put in a warm, not hot, place for second rising, which will be ac- 
complished by morning, when the kneading may be done. 
Kneading is the finest point of breadmaking, and contains more 
of the art than any other ; it requires skill, time, patience, and 
hard work. Work in flour no faster than is required to allow 
thorough kneading, which cannot be done in less than 45 
minutes, but should not be worked much over an hour. The 
working of the dough gives grain and flakiness to the bread. The 
douo^h should be soft, not sticky, and stiff enough to retain its 
roundness on the board. Put back into the pan for the third 
rising, which will require little time, and, when light, cut off 
enough for each loaf by itself, knead but little, and put into pans. 
If the first kneading has been well done, no more flour will be 
necessary in making the loaves. These must rise till nearly as 
large as they ought to be, and then put into a well-heated oven. 
From 40 to 60 minutes will cook it. If the yeast is set at 5 
p. m. , the bread will be ready for dinner the next day; if in 
the morning, the baking will be done early in the evening, or 
12 hours after, with good yeast and fair temperature. Bread 
made in this way will be good for a week, and, with fair weather 
and careful keeping, even for two weeks. 

HOP-YEAST BREAD. 
3 pints warm water, 1 teacup yeast. 

Make a thin sponge of the yeast, water and flour, and let it re- 
main till quite light. Knead into a loaf before going to bed ; in 
the morning, mould into 3 loaves. When light, bake an hour. 
Bread made in this way is never soggy or heavy. To have 



BREAD. 17 

fine, light biscuit, add the lard or butter at night, and in the 
morning make into biscuit and bake for breakfast. By this 
recipe bread is baked earl}', leaving the oven free for other 
articles. 

YEAST AND BREAD TOGETHER 1. 

On the evening before breadmaking day, peel and boil 2 
medium sized potatoes ; mash them in the water in which they 
were boiled, and pour the mixture, boiling hot, into the breadpan 
into which has been put 2 tablespoons flour and 1 each of salt 
and sugar. The yeast should be as thin as gruel. Now strain it 
through a colander, and when it has cooled a little, add a small 
cup of yeast and set it in a warm place to rise. In the morning, 
sift flour into the breadpan, make a hole in the middle, pour in 
the yeast, and partially stir it into the flour. Add a quart of luke- 
warm water with a teaspoon salt dissolved in it, then stir until 
stiff enough to knead. Knead it 15 minutes, then put it into 
the breadpan, which must be dusted with flour ; put another pan 
over it, and set it where it will rise slowl}', as bread that has been 
hurried is not so good. If it becomes stiff on top before it is 
light, cover it with a cloth dipped in warm water. When light 
enough, the pan will lift easily and not as if it held a dead weight ; 
then it must be turned on to the breadboard, kneaded quickly and 
lightly into a long roll and cut into loaves. The less the loaves 
are kneaded and the less flour added, the better the bread will be. 
When the tins begin to feel quite light, the bread is ready to bake. 
The oven should be quite hot at first, and allowed to cool off grad- 
ually while the bread is baking, but the fire must not get very low 
until the bread is done, which will be in about 40 minutes. 
When the bread is baked, put a plate in a pan, turn the bread on 
to it and cover with another pan ; when it is cool, raise the pan, 
wipe off the steam, and replace it, keeping it there until used up. 

YEAST AND BREAD TOGETHER 2. 

Use about a pint of mashed potatoes ; strain them through a 
colander, with the water in which they are boiled, into a vessel cxjn- 
taining about a pint of flour. After this is well stirred, and cooled 
until lukewarm, add 2 tablespoons of the yeast and set the 
sponge in a warm place to rise. It will usually be light in about 



18 BREAD. 

6 hours, and should be made into a sponge in the regular way 
by adding warm water and flour. When this second sponge has 
risen, mix it into dough. This method takes a great deal of time, 
but makes the best bread. These directions are for white bread, 
but graham bread may be made in the same way, by adding mo- 
lasses, a little shortening, and graham flour instead of white when 
mixing the second sponge. 

Empty the mashed potatoes left from dinner into it, but do not 
stir it up until the 3'east is soaked. Let it soak until night, then 
stir it up and acid warm water, a tablespoon each of sugar and 
salt, and sift in flour enough to make a stifl? batter. Beat this 
well, and set in a warm place over night. Mix as early as possi- 
ble in the morning, and be sure to knead it a good while, 20 
minutes at least, as tliat makes smooth, white bread. 

Grease the bottom and sides of a crock with lard, the same one 
the sponge was made in — use a crock, because when it gets warm 
it retains the heat better than any tin or wooden ware, and the 
dough does not d;y and form a crust on the outside — and let it 
rise, then knead agLiin. If kneaded properly the first time, so as 
to have the dough stiff enough, knead it a very little this time. 
Let it rise again, and mould into loaves, and bake when light 
enough. If homemade 3-east is preferred, it can be used just as 
well. By following these directions, good bread can be secured 
without the trouble of cooking potatoes on purpose, and having 
more dishes to wash. 

grandma's bread. 

Set the bread at night, and if kept warm it is ready to mix 
early in the morning. Knead down 2 or 3 times before put- 
ting it into the pans. Never take the dough from the pan when 
kneading it, but press it down gentl}^ to get out the gases, and, at 
the last, give a few "doubles " to pull in the edges, then turn it 
over. When putting it in the pans, cut off enough dough for a 
loaf, roll it with the hands until it is a foot in length ; roll this up 
and press it together in the shape of a loaf, and when it is baked 
it will be in la3''ers, light and feathery, and not full of tiny holes. 
Just as the loaves begin to brown, brush them quickly with sweet 
milk, and the crust will be tender and delicious. 



BREAD. 19 

COFFEE BREAD. 

1 quart flour, ^ sugar.cup white 

IX cups warm milk, }^ cup yeast, 

1 cup stoned raisins, 1 egg, 

5i cup butter, J^ teaspoon cinnamon. 

Measure the flour before sifting, then sift, add sugar, and rub 
in the butter. Mix in the yeast, add the milk, and knead for 
15 minutes. Cover, and let rise all day. In the evening add 
the egg, well beaten, and knead thoroughly. Cover well, and let 
rise all night. Stir in the cinnamon and raisins in the morning. 
Make up, using as little flour as possible. Let rise to the top of 
the pan, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. This makes a 
large loaf. 

MILK BREAD. 

2 quarts milk, 1 cup sugar, 

3 quarts flour, }^ cup butter. 

Scald fresh, sweet milk, and, when cool, make a sponge of the 
flour in which the butter has been rubbed. If rolls are wanted, 
add sugar when mixing it. Let stand until light, add flour 
enough to knead thoroughly. Let rise again, work over as be- 
fore, and mould into the desired shape. If the dough is kept in 
an earthen vessel and covered with tin, it will not need greasing 
while rising. Always butter the top of the dough when it is put 
into the pans to rise, and do not cover with a cloth when baked. 

BREAD WITHOUT KNEADING. 

1 quart milk, }{ cup yeast» 

2 tablespoons butter. 

TVarm the butter in the milk, do not let it become hot, add 
yeast when sufficiently cool, stir in all the flour possible with a 
spoon. Beat well, pour into pans, let rise and bake at once. 

WINTER BREAD. 

To make light bread in winter, on the day before baking have 
mashed potatoes for dinner. When the potatoes are cooked, 
drain the water into a crock or bowl and set it away to cool. 
When dinner is over put a cake of 3'east foam, or as much dry 
yeast of any kind as used at a baking, in the potato water. 



20 BREAD. 



RICE BREAD. 



2K cups warm milk, 7 cups flour, 

3^ cup butter, 3 eggs, 

% cup yeast, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

1 heaping cup boiled rice. 

If the rice is cooked in milk, use the same day and cool before 
using. If cold, and hard or lumpy, add a little milk and set 
the bowl into a basin of hot water on the stove, stirring until 
smooth. Do not let it become more than lukewarm. Eub the 
butter and sugar together, stir in the eggs, previously well beaten, 
2 cups of flour, milk, and the rest of the flour ; then add the 
rice and yeast, and beat well together for 10 minutes. Cover 
closely, and let rise over night. This quantity makes two small 
loaves, and should rise in the pans about 1^ hours, or above the 
top of the pan. Do not have a very hot oven, as this bread 
browns quickly. / 

POTATO SPONGE. 

6 potatoes, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

3 cups flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 

1 cup yeast, 1 quart tepid water. 

Boil and mash potatoes ; while hot add sugar, butter and flour. 

Beat to a smooth batter and stir in the yeast. Let rise over night. 

Knead vigorously for 15 minutes in the morning. Set away, 

and, when light, knead and mould into medium sized loaves. Let 

rise and bake. 

POTATO BALL BREAD. 

1 cup mashed potatoes, 1 cake yeast, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Soften the yeast cake in as little water as possible, then add to 
the potato, with which the sugar and salt have been thoroughly 
mixed. It will be ready for use in two days in winter — sooner in 
summer. Keep it in a covered bowl. Mix bread sponge with 2 
quarts of warm milk or water, and add half the potato ball. Let 
rise, and proceed as with other bread. To the other half of the 
ball, add a cup of potatoes, stirring thoroughly, and set away 
until the next baking day. If the sponge freezes it will not be in- 
jured. This method is pronounced a superior one. 



BREAD. 21 

SALT RISING BREAD 1. 

Put 1 teaspoon salt into 1 pint water, stirring in enough flour to 
make a luin batter. Keep warm. If set at 6 a. m. , it should 
commence to rise about 11 o'clock. Let stand until it foams all 
over the top. Then add a pint of fresh milk warmed, and knead 
into loaves immediately. Bake as soon as risen, and you will not 
be troubled with any disagreeable odors. 

SALT RISING BREAD 2. 

}4 cup corn meal, K cup butter, 

1 pint warm water, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 saltspoon soda, 1 teaspoon sugar, 

3 quarts flour. 
The evening before baking, scald the corn meal with enough 
sweet milk to make a moderately stiflT batter. If set in a warm 
place this will be light in the morning. Add the water, soda, and 
sufficient flour to make quite stiflf. Place in a pan of warm water 
to rise. For 5 loaves take 3 quarts of flour; add butter, salt, 
sugar and the sponge with water enough to make a stiff dough. 
Mould into loaves, let rise, and bake 45 minutes. Much depends 
on keeping the batter warm and the stove properly heated. 

SALT RISING BREAD — 3. 

On the evening before baking da}^ pour about half a cup of boil- 
ing hot new milk on one tablespoon of corn meal, stir it well and 
let it stand in a warm place over night. It will not rise but will 
look light and foam}-. In the morning make salt rising as usual, 
and add the prepared meal to it. Place the dish in a kettle of 
warm water, and keep it at an even temperature until the sponge 
is light, which will be in about two hours. The bread can be 
baked before noon. 

BREAD WITH BUTTERMILK. 

The evening before baking, bring 2 quarts sweet buttermilk to 
the boiling point, or boil sour milk and tiike the same quantity of 
the whey, and pour into a crock in which 1 small cup flour 
has been placed. Let stand till sufficiently cool, then add yeast, 
and flour to make a thick batter ; the better and longer the sponge 
is stiiTcd the whiter will be tlie bread. In the morning sift the 
flour into the breadpan, pour the sponge in the center, stir in 



22 BREAD. 

some of the flour, and let stand until after breakfast ; then mix, 
kneading for about half an hour, the longer the better ; when 
light, mould into loaves, this time kneading as little as possible. 
The secret of good bread is having good yeast, and not baking 
too hard. This makes four loaves and forty biscuit. 

BAKING POWDER BREAD. 

1 quart flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Sift the baking powder and salt into the flour ; the sifting en- 
sures thorough mixing. Before wetting the flour, see that the 
oven is rather quick, that is, rather hotter than that required for 
bread ; if the hand can be held in the oven while 15 can be counted 
rapidly, the heat will be about right. Also butter the baking 
pan. These preparations being made, chop into the flour butter 
or good lard, and pour in sufficient water or milk to just moisten 
the flour. The tops of the loaves should be brushed with butter 
or milk ; no kneading is required ; as soon as the flour is wet put 
it at once into buttered pans, and bake it as rapidly as possible 
without bui-ning. As the rising of the carbonic acid gas which is 
freed from the wet baking powder is what makes the dough light, 
it is important to fix the dough before the gas can escape. The 
process of making light biscuit or bread from baking powder is 
purely a mechanical operation, based upon the formation of these 
air, or rather gas cells, in the dough. If, as the gas forces its 
way up through, forming the cells, they can be fixed with heat so 
that their shape is retained after the dough is baked, it cannot fail 
to be light. If, on the other hand, the gas is allowed to escape 
before the dough is fixed by heat during baking, there is no rea- 
son why it should be light. 

Let this simple statement of facts be remembered, and the 
dough made with baking powder be baked before the gas can es- 
cape, and there will be no complaint of heavy bread or biscuits. 
The flavor will, of course, depend upon the amount and kind of 
shortening used, and the brushing before baked. This recipe 
makes one medium loaf of bread. 



BREAD. 23 

VIENNA BREAD 1. 

1 pint milk, 6 or 7 cups flour, 

1 tablespoon butter, 1 cup yeast, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Melt butter in hot milk. Measure milk after scalding and put 

in the mixing bowl with butter, sugar and salt. When cool, add 

yeast, and then stir in flour, adding it gradually after 5 cups 

have been put in, in order to be only stiff enough to knead. 

Knead till smooth and elastic. Cover ; let rise till light ; cut it 

down ; divide into 4 parts and shape into loaves. Let rise 

again in the pans ; bake 45 or 50 minutes. 

VIENNA BREAD 2. 

Take the same proportions of the preceding recipe, except that 
about one less cup of flour is used, and the dough is not kneaded. 
Mix it with a knife, cutting it through and turning and working it 
over until all the dry flour is mixed with the other materials. Mix 
soft enough to be shaped into loaves after it has risen. Scrape 
the dough from the sides of the bowl ; smooth the top with a 
knife ; cover and let rise. Shape into loaves, and when light bake 
50 minutes. 

BOSTON BRCFWN BREAD 

1 cup rye meal, 2 cups milk, 

1 cup Indian meal, 1 cup molasses, 

1 cup graham flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 dessert spoon soda. 

Use sour milk, if possible, and if necessary 1 cup of water 
can be substituted for 1 cup milk ; add molasses, New Orleans 
or Porto Rico preferred, soda and salt. Into this stir the meal 
and flour, pour into a well-greiised form or covered pail, put into 
a kettle of boiling water, and cook 3 hours. This may ap- 
pear too thin, but do not add an3'thing more. The bread should 
not fill the pail over two-thirds full. See that the water does not 
boil over the pail ; also take care that it does not boil entirely 
awa}-, or stop boiling. To serve it, remove the cover, set a few 
moments into the oven to dry off the top, and it will turn out in 
shape. 



24 BREAD. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD — 2. 
3 cups sour milk, ^ cup molasses, 

2 cups corn meal, 1 dessert spoon soda, 

2 cups graham or rye meal, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix thoroughly and steam 3 hours. Brown in the oven. 

KANSAS BROWN BREAD. 
1 cup corn meal, 1 cup sour milk, 

1 cup white flour, 1 cup molasses, 

1 cup graham flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 teaspoon soda. 
Steam it 4 or 5 hours and set it in the oven a few minutes 
to brown. 

BROWN JO BREAD. 

2 cups corn meal, 1 cup molasses, 

2 cups white flour, 1 cup sour milk, 
1 teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix well and steam 3 or 4 hours, then bake half an hour. 

STEAMED BROWN BREAD 1. 

1 pint sour milk, }4. cup molasses, 

1 pint corn meal, 2 tablespoons melted lard, 

1 pint wheat flour, 1 heaping teaspoon soda. 

Mix well and steam 3 hours. This is well worth trying. 

STEAMED BROWN BREAD 2. 

1 heaping teaspoon soda, 2 cups sour milk, 

3 cups corn meal, 1 cup warm water, 
1 cup flour or rye meal, 1 cup molasses, 

3^ teaspoon salt. 
Mix thoroughly together, and steam 3 hours, then dry it off 
in the oven. 

BROWN LOAF. 

3 cups corn meal, 1 cup sour milk, 

1 cup flour, yi cup molasses, 

3 cups sweet milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 teaspoon soda. 

Butter a deep mold, and steam 3 hours. This can be made 
the day before, then steamed for half an hour in the morning 
when wanted, which makes it as nice as if just made. Another 
good way is to mix, and set it in a very slow oven to remain all 
night where it will bake slowly. The fire must be turned off care- 
fully for the night, so that the oven will not get hot, but do not 



BREAD. 25 

let it go out entirely. The loaf will be nicely baked for break- 
fast Be sure to remove from the oven, when you build up a hot 
fire in the morning. 

BROWN BREAD. 

2 cups corn meal, 2}^ cups sour milk, 

1 cup graham flour, 1 heaping teaspoon soda, 
hi cup molasses, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Steam 3 hours, and brown half an hour in the oven. 

CORN BREAD. 
7 pints corn meal, 1 pint molasses, 

3 pints rye flour, 2 teaspoons soda. 
Skimmed milk, 2 teaspoons salt. 

Let this mixture be stiff enough to drop compactly from the 
spoon. Dust rye flour over the top of the loaves and pat smooth. 
Bake about 4 hours in a slow oven. 

BREAD WITH MUSH. 

2 quarts mush, 1 coffee cup molasses, 

2 quarts flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 quart sponge, 1 teaspoon soda. 

Pour hot com meal mush, made as for eating, over the flour, 
wheat or graham ; whe cool, add sponge, molasses, salt and 
soda. Mix well together, add flour if necessary ; knead thor- 
oughly, make into small loaves, let rise and bake in a moderate 
oven. When done, rub over with butter, place on the side, wrap 
in a cloth, and when cold put in a jar or box. This recipe makes 
three good-sized loaves and keeps moist longer than all-graham 
bread. 

"ENTIRE wheat" FLOUR BREAD. 

Add 1 tablespoon sugar to 3 cups bread sponge and stir in 
''entire wheat" flour, graham can be used if desired, until the 
dough is sufficiently stiff to put into a well-buttered pan. Let 
rise and bake 1 hour. This is a nice, easy recipe, and makes one 
loaf. 

TENNESSEE EGG BREAD. 

3 cups buttermilk, 1 teaspoon soda, 

2 cups corn meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 
1 tablespoon lard, 1 egg. 

Bake brown and quickly. 



26 BREAD. 

GRAHAM BREAD 1. 

1 pint graham flour, 1 pint bread sponge, 

1 pint white flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

Warm water to mix. 
Mix soft, put in deep round tins, well buttered, and when light, 
bake slowly. 

GRAHAM BREAD 2. 

1 cup molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 cup yeast, 1 quart warm water. 

Stir in enough graham fliour to make a soft dough ; pour it into 
well-greased pans, let rise 1 hour, then steam 1 hour, after which 
put into the oven and bake half an hour. This will make two 
medium-sized loaves. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

1 quart warm water, }4 cup yeast, 

K cup brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Thicken the water with unbolted flour to a thin batter; add 
sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more flour until quite stiff. In 
the morning add a small teaspoon soda and flour enough to make 
the batter stiff as can be stirred with a spoon ; put it into pans 
and let rise again ; then bake in even oven, not too hot at first ; 
keep warm while rising ; smooth over the loaves with a spoon or 
knife dipped in water. 

QUICK GRAHAM BREAD. 

3 cups sour milk, 3^ cup molasses, 

2 teaspoons soda, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Dissolve the soda in a little hot water before stirring into the 
m!lk, add molasses, salt, and as much graham flour as can be 
stirred in with a spoon ; pour in well-greased pan, put in oven as 
soon as mixed, and bake 2 hours. 

BUTTERMILK GRAHAM BREAD. 

1 pint yeast, 2 teaspoons salt, 

2 quarts sweet buttermilk. 

Scald the buttermilk, sweet milk or water can be used if neces- 
sary, let cool, add salt, homemade yeast, and make the sponge 
with white flour. When risen, mix with graham flour, knead, let 
rise, knead down, let rise again, and knead into separate loaves. 
When risen to double its size, it is ready for the oven. Let it 



BREAD. 27 

6ake 45 minutes. [Many consider bread nicer with less kneading, 
—Ed.] 

rye bread. 

1 pint corn rneal, 1 cup yeast, 

1 quart warm water. 

Thicken the water with rye flour and add yeast. Scald the com 

meal and when cool stir into the sponge, adding more r}'e flour 

until thick enough to knead. Knead but little, let rise, mould 

into small loaves, let rise and bake. Wheat sponge may be used 

instead of rye. 

RYE BREAD. 

Make sponge as for wheat bread, let rise over night, then mix 
In up with the rye flour ( not so stiff as wheat bread), and bake. 

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 

1 quart rye meal, }4 cup molasses, 

2 quarts Indian meal, 1 teaspoon soda, 
1 cup yeast, 3 teaspoons salt. 

Scald the meal by pouring just enough boiling water over it to 
wet it, stirring constantly, do not make a batter, then add mo- 
lasses, soda, salt and 3'east. Make as stiff as can be stirred with 
a spoon, mixing with warm water, and let rise all night; then put 
in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold 
water, let it stand a short time, and bake 5 or 6 hours. If put in 
:he oven late in the day, let it remain all night. Graham flour 
may be used instead of rye meaL 

BBEAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

The << civilized man cannot live without cooks" and the wise, 
intelligent cook finds her opportunity in such preparation for the 
morning meal as shall conduce to the best results during the da}' ; 
the food should be as healthful and appetizing, as the table dainty 
and inviting in its appointments. Thought and care, waiting on 
knowledge, provide for these, though the purse be low and the 
materials few and coarse. A wide latitude is given in the oppor- 
tunit}' of selection, from mush to waffles, biscuits to johnnycakes, 
rolls to crullers, gems to pancakes, but there is onl}" one healthful 
way of preparation, although these articles vary in their respective 
Ability to nourish the body. Raised biscuit, rolls and muffins, 



28 BISCUITS. 

being small, need to rise very light before baking, as the heat acts 
immediately upon them, and prevents but little further expansion 
from the confined gas. They require a hotter oven than is needed 
for bread, but not so hot as for soda or baking powder biscuit. 
Full directions are given in most of the recipes, but it will be help- 
ful to bear these general ones in mind. 

Handle soda and baking powder biscuit as little and as rapidly 
as possible. With sour milk use soda, with sweet milk baking 
powder, or soda and cream of tartar. For one quart of flour take 
three teaspoons baking powder, or one of soda to two of cream of 
tartar. Buy the pure bi-carbonate of soda and cream of tartar 
from a reliable drug store, and use the best baking powder. 
There are many powders on the market, but avoid those known to 
have alum, ammonia or such deleterious substances in their compo- 
sition. Though a little longer time is required when using soda 
and cream of tartar than baking powder, they certainly seem more 
in accordance with health. Soda, or raised biscuit, rolls, bread 
and cake, when stale, can be freshened by plunging them into cold 
water and putting into a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. 
They should be used immediately. Gem pans, muffin rings, pop- 
over cups and waflfle irons should be greased and heated very hot 
before using. 

The genuine English griddle muffin is never considered cooked 
until it has been split and toasted. A very delicious breakfast 
dish is the yeast muffin, baked in the oven and served imme- 
diately. This is the New England method. 

RAISED BISCUITS 1. 

1 pint hot milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 quart flour, 1 saltspoon salt, 

1 cup yeast, 1 egg. 

Dissolve butter in the milk ; when lukewarm stir in the beaten 
egg, salt, yoast and flour. Work the dough until smooth. If 
winter, set in a warm place ; if summer, in a cool one to rise. In 
the morning work softly and roll out one-half inch and cut into 
biscuit and set to rise for 30 minutes, when they will be ready to 
bake. These are delicious. 



BISCUITS 29 

queen's biscuits. 
1}4 pounds flour, 24 eggs, whites, 

IX pounds powdered sugar, 18 eggs, yolks. 

Crushed coriander seed. 

Make a soft paste of the flour, sugar, and eggs, adding a little 
coriander seed, also a little yeast if desired. Bake on paper in a 
moderate oven till they begin to brown. 

ROCK BISCUITS. 
1 pound powdered sugar, 6 eggs, 

}4 pound flour, Currants. 

Beat the eggs till very light, add the sugar, then the flour grad- 
ually, and finally the currants. Mix well together, put the dough 
on the tins with a fork, making it look as rough as possible. Bake 
in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to half an hour. When cool, 
store them away in a dry place. 

SAVOY BISCUITS. 
1 pound flour, 3 tablespoons water, 

1 pound powdered sugar, 13 eggs. 

Beat the eggs with the water, adding gradually the sugar. 
When it becomes thick, stir in the flour. Mould into long cakes 
and bake slowl}'. 

SUGAR BISCUITS. 

IK pints flour, 1 tablespoon lard, 

X pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 
1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 

2 teaspoons baking powder. 
Mix into smooth batter and drop into tins. Bake in a hot oven 
8 or 10 minutes. 

MAPLE SUGAR BISCUITS. I 

1 quart flour, 1 pint milk, 

2 tablespoons butter, 1 cup maple sugar, 

3 teaspoons baking powder or cream of tartar and soda. 

Whatever is used to lighten the biscuit, whether soda and cream 
of tartar or baking powder, sift it through the sieve with the flour. 
Rub the butter through the flour, so thoroughly that some portion 
of the butter touches ever}^ portion of the flour. The success of 
any baking powder or of a soda biscuit depends upon care at this 
point. Stir in rich, new milk to make a soft dough. At this 
period add the maple sugar cut into irregular dice about the size 



30 ROLLS. 

of peas. Dredge a board; turn out the dough. Dredge floui 
over it and roll as quickly as possible till about an inch thick. Cut 
out the biscuit with a small tumbler or biscuit cutter, not over 2 
inches in diameter. They will rise to the proper size. Bake 15 
minutes in a very hot oven. Serve hot. These maple sugar bis- 
cuits are a delightful change. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

3 quarts flour, K tablespoon butter, 

1 pint cold boiled milk, }4 tablespoon lard, 

}4 cup yeast, K cup sugar, 

1 teaspoon salt, 1 egg. 

If wanted for supper, rub the flour and butter together, boil the 
milk, and cool it the night before. Make a well in the flour, pour 
into it the milk, to which has been added the sugar, salt, well- 
beaten Qgg^ and yeast, but do not stir. Let stand over night. In 
the morning stir, knead, and let rise till near tea time. When 
very light, roll out and cut with a biscuit cutter; put a little 
melted butter on half the biscuit, and fold nearly over on the 
other half. Place in the pan about 3 inches apart. Let rise and 
bake. 

FRENCH ROLLS. 

6 potatoes, K cup yeast, 

1 teaspoon salt, K cup lard, 

2 quarts water. 

Peel potatoes, boil in the water, press and drain potatoes and 

water through a colander; when cool enough not to scald, add 

flour to make a thick batter, beat well, and add j-east. Make this 

sponge early in the morning, and when light turn into a breadpan, 

add salt, lard, and flour enough for a soft dough ; mix and let rise 

in a warm, even temperature ; when risen, knead down and place 

again to rise, repeating this process 5 or 6 times ; cut in small 

pieces and mould in rolls about 1 inch thick hy 5 long ; roll in 

melted butter or sweet lard, and place in well-greased baking pans ; 

nine inches long by five wide and two and one-half deep, makes a 

convenient pan, which holds fifteen of these rolls ; if twice the 

width, put in 2 rows ; press the rolls closely together, so that they 

will only be about half an inch wide. Let rise a short time and 

bake 20 minutes in a hot oven ; if the top browns too rapidly, 



ROLLS. 31 

cover with paper. These rolls, if properly made, are very white, 
light and tender. 

Or, make rolls larger, and just before putting them in the oven, 
cut deeply across each one with a sharp knife. This will make 
the cleft roll, so famous among French cooks. 

ITALIAN ROLLS. 

Work one-fourth pound butter into 1 pound of bread dough 
when it has risen read3" for the oven, roll it out half an inch thick ; 
cut in strips 1 inch wide by 7 or 8 inches long. Sift fine corn 
meal over them. Place on a sheet of greased tin, so they will not 
touch each other, and when light, about one hour, bake 10 min- 
utes in a quick oven. 

BREAKFAST ROLLS 1. 

Mix the dough in the evening, according to directions in the 
recipe for Bread Raised Once ; add a tablespoon of butter, and set 
where it will be a little warm until morning ; cut off pieces, and 
carefull}^ shape them into rolls of the desired size b}^ rolling them 
l)etween the hands, but do not knead them ; dip the sides of each 
into drawn butter when they are shaped, and place them in the 
pan ; the butter prevents their sticking together when baked, and 
they will be smooth and perfect when separated. Ilub them over 
the top with drawn butter, and dust with a little fine salt. Set in 
a warm place, and they will quickl}^ rise for baking. These are 
delicious. 

BREAKFAST ROLLS 2. 

1 cup sweet milk, 2 eggs, whites, 

X cup butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 

}4 cup yeast, 2 tablespoons sugar. 

Flour for thick batter. 
Let rise over night, adding the eggs, beaten to a foam, and the 
sugar in the morning. Mould quickly, and let rise a little and 
bake. Ver}' nice. 

LONG BREAKFAST ROLLS. 
3K cups sweet milk, 3-^ cup lard, 

1 cup yeast, }4 cup butter, 

1 egg. 
Take flour enough to make into dough ; let rise over night. In 
the morning add the beaten egg, knead thoroughly', and let rise 



32 ROLLS. 

again. With the hands make into balls as large as an egg ; then 
roll between the hands to make long rolls, about three inches, 
place close together in even rows in the pans. Let rise until light, 
and bake delicately. 

DINNER ROLLS. 

Make dough as directed in recipe for Long Breakfast Rolls, 
make into balls as large as a medium-sized egg, place on a well- 
floured board, flour a small rolling-pin, three-fourths inch in 
diameter, press down so as nearly to divide each ball of dough in 
the center, place in pans without touching each other, grease the 
space made by the rolling-pin with melted butter, let rise until 
light, and bake. These rolls are so small and bake so quickly, 
that they have the delicious sweet taste of the wheat. Some grease 
the hands with butter while making the rolls. Bread dough, by 
adding the other ingredients, may be used for these rolls. 

TEA ROLLS. 

1 pint sweet milk, Yz cup yeast, 

1 pint warm water, * yi cup butter, 

1 teaspoon salt, Yz cup sugar. 

In the morning make sponge with milk, water, yeast and flour. 
When light and foamy, add sugar, butter, salt, and flour enough 
to knead the dou^h without stickino; to the board. Let rise once, 
then with the hands mould into oblong rolls, about 4 inches long. 
Grease the hands when doing this. Place the rolls in greased tins, 
not quite touching each other. When light, or about twice their 
first size, put in a hot oven to bake. They should be done in 
thirty minutes. When done, place right side up on a clean towel, 
and then take a tablespoon nearly half full of white sugar, fill up 
with water, and with the finger moisten the tops of all the rolls. 

COFFEE ROLLS. 1. 

Work into a quart of bread dough a rounded tablespoon of but- 
ter, and a half cup of white sugar; add some dried currants, 
dredge with flour and sugar, make into small rolls, dip into melted 
butter, place in tins, let rise a short time, and bake. 

COFFEE ROLLS — 2. 

12 cups flour, 1 cup yeast, 

3 cups warm milk, '%. cup butter, 

1 cup white sugar, % cup lard, 

1 grated nutmeg, 3 eggs. 



ROLLS. 33 

Mix all together and let rise over night. If -well risen in the 
morning, knead and set in a cool place until 3 p. 3i. , then shape 
into long rolls and let them rise nearly 2 hours. Bake half an 
hour in a moderate oven. When done, glaze with a little milk and 
brown sugar, and set back in the oven 2 minutes. 

CINNAMON ROLLS 1. 

Mix some shortening, an egg and a little sugar into a piece 
of light bread dough ; roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, 
spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon ; roll 
up, and slice off with a sharp knife like jelly roll. Place in pans 
like biscuit, let rise, and when light, put a lump of butter, a little 
sugar and cinnamon on each one and bake. 

CINNAMON ROLLS 2. 

Pie crust, Cinnamon, 

Sugar. 
Roll out the pie crust, sprinkle cinnamon and a little sugar over 
it ; cut in narrow strips, roll up tight, put in a well-buttered pan, 
brown nicely, and serve. 

GRAHAM ROLLS. 

1 quart grahatn flour, 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 pint buttermilk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 teaspoon soda. 

Sift the soda into the flour ; stir salt, melted butter and flour 

into the buttermilk. Drop into roll pans and bake half an hour. 

EXCELLENT ROLLS. 

1 pint new milk, ^ cup butter, 

}^ cup yeast, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 2 eggs, whites. 

Scald the new milk, adding to it when cool, sugar, 3'east, and 
flour enough to make a stiff batter. Let rise over night, and in 
the morning add butter, salt, and the beaten whites of eggs. Mix, 
knead well and let rise, then knead again and roll out until three- 
fourths inch in thickness. Cut with a biscuit cutter, spread 
butter on one half and roll the other half over it. Let rise until 
very light, then bake. 

CRESCENTS OR VIENNA ROLLS. 

Use recipe for Vienna Bread No. 2, adding 1 tablespoon butter. 
When very light, roll the dough until one-eighth inch thick; 



34 ROLLS, 

cut into pieces 5 inches square, and then into triangles. Hold the 
apex of the triangle in the right hand, roll the edge next the left 
hand over and over toward the right, stretch the point and bring 
it over and under the roll. Bend the ends of the roll around like 
a horseshoe, being careful to keep in the folding. 

WINTER ROLLS. 

3 quarts flour, 1 cup yeast, 
1 quart buttermilk, 1 cup lard, 

1 quart cold water, Salt. 

Put the flour into a jar, scald the buttermilk, add lard and pour 
all over the flour, beating it up well ; add water and yeast ; set in 
a warm place to rise over night. In the morning add salt, and 
flour enough to make a moderately stiflf dough ; when risen, 
knead and set to rise again. This time knead down and place in 
a large stone crock or bowl, covered tightly to prevent the surface 
from drying, and set away in a cool place. When needed, turn 
out on a bread board, take off a piece as large as you wished, roll 
out to the thickness of ordinary soda biscuit, cut, and put in the 
oven to bake immediately. Set the dough away as before ; it will 
keep a week in winter, and is very convenient for hot breakfast 
rolls. 

POCKET BOOKS. 

1 quart new milk, 1 cup yeast, 

4 tablespoons sugar, X cup lard, 

2 eggs, V^ cup butter, 

X teaspoon salt. 

Warm the milk, add butter, lard, sugar, and the well-beaten 
eggs ; stir in flour to make a moderately stiff sponge, add the 
yeast, and set in a warm place to rise, which will take three or 
four hours ; then mix in flour to make a soft dough and let rise 
again. When well risen, dissolve a little soda in a spoonful of 
milk, work it into the dough and roll into sheets one-half inch in 
thickness ; spread with thin laj^er of butter, cut into squares, and 
fold over, pocketbook shape ; put on tins or in pans to rise for a 
little while, when thej will be fit for the oven. In summer the 
sponge can be made up in the morning, and rise in time to make 
for tea. In cool weather it is best to set it over night. 



KU8K. 35 

RUSKS AND BUNS. 

Rusk is not the sweet hot biscuit so often called bj^ this name in 
New England — that is properly a bun. A genuine rusk is a 
slightl}^ sweet dried bread, which may be eaten as it is, crisp and 
delicious ; or it may be soaked in ice-cold milk, with an accom- 
paniment of berries and the richest and best of cream cheese. It 
is an ideal summer dish, served with cream and berries. There 
are two kinds of rusk, that which is sweet and that which is made 
without sweetening. 

GENUINE RUSK. 

1 quart flour, Yz cup butter, 

1 cup scalded milk, Yz cup yeast, 

1 teaspoon salt, 3 eggs. 

Rub the butter into the flour, add the milk, beating it into the 
flour. It should form as thick a batter as can be well stirred. 
Add the well-beaten eggs, stirring them in one by one while the 
mixture is lukewarm, then the salt, and finally the 3'east. Beat 
the batter well. Let it rise 1 hours. Then turn out on a board 
dusted with flour. Dredge the risen mass with flour and knead 
until it ceases to cling to the hand. It will require fifteen or 
twent}' minutes' vigorous kneading. Let rise again, then roll out 
about an inch in thickness, and cut into small, round biscuit 
shapes. Place these on floured tins and let rise three-fourths of 
an hour before putting them in the oven. They should be well 
covered in the biscuit tins. Bake the rusks from 15 to 20 min- 
utes in a quick oven. Split while still warm and put into a slow 
oven or into the heating closet of the range till perfectly crisp and 
dr}^ through and through. They may then be put in a loose bag 
and hung up in a dry place to gain perfection. In two weeks 
they will be ready to use, though they will be delicious in three 
days. To make a sweet rusk add at least 1 cup of sugar to the 
above rule. These rusks should be evenly and regularly browned 
throughout. 

RUSK — 1. 

2 cups raised dough, Yz cup butter, 
1 cup sugar, 2 eggs. 

Cinnamon. 
Rub the butter and sugar together, beating in the eggs, and add- 



36 RUSK. 

ing flour to make a stiff dough. Set to rise, and when light, 
mould into high biscuit and let rise again ; sift sugar and cinna- 
mon over the top, and place in oven. 

RUSK — 2. 
1 pint milk, 1 cup butter, 

3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 

1 large cup potato yeast. 
Use flour to make a thick sponge ; in the morning stir down, let 
rise, and stir down again ; when it rises make into a loaf, and let 
rise again ; then roll out like soda biscuit, cut and put in pans, 
and, when light, bake carefully ; or make into rather high and nar- 
row biscuit, let rise again, rub the tops with a little sugar and 
water, then sprinkle over them dry sugar. Bake 20 minutes. 

CREAM RUSK. 

1 pint warm water, 1 cup sugar, 

1 cup rich cream, 1 cup yeast. 

Flour for stiff batter. 

Let rise over night and work down several times. When ready 
to bake, roll and cut in small cakes, put in a buttered pan, let 
rise and bake. Sprinkle with sugar when taken from the oven. 

LEBANON RUSK. 

1 cup potatoes, 1 cup yeast, 

1 cup sugar, 3 eggs, 

X cup butter and lard. 

Mash the potatoes, add the sugar, homemade yeast, and eggs ; 

mix together, let rise, and add the butter, lard, and flour enough to 

make a soft dough ; when risen again, mould into small cakes, and 

let them rise before baking. If wanted for tea, set about 9 A. M. 

BUNS. 
1 cup milk, Yz cup yeast, 

1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 

Yi cup butter, Currants, 

Cinnamon. 
Rub the butter and sugar together, add Q%g, milk and yeast, 
flavor with cinnamon; stir in flour to make a soft dough. Let 
rise till very light, tlien rjould into biscuit with a few currants. 
Let rise a second time in pan; bake, and, when nearly done, 
glaze with a little molasses and milk. Use the same cup, no mat- 
ter about the size, for each measure. 



BANNOCK. 37 

SCOTCH CURRANT BANNOCK. 

2 pounds raisins, 1 heaping cup lard and butter, 

2 pounds currants, 1 cup yeast, 

1 quart flour, 1 tablespoon caraway seed, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon finely cut orange peel. 

Clean seedless raisins and currants and leave in a colander over 
night to drain. Set a sponge in the evening as for two loaves of 
bread, using 1 cup yeast. In the morning when the sponge is 
very light, sift the flour into a large pan, and rub the shortening 
into it. Mix in sugar, caraway seed and orange peel, then add 
raisins and currants which must be perfectly'' dr}'. Stir all to- 
gether thoroughly and knead like bread, adding more flour if nec- 
essary, and put back in the pan to rise. When light knead down 
and put into a large, round baking pan. After rising bake very 
carefully for 2 hours at least, and in some cases longer as ovens 
diflier. If the top bakes too rapidly cover with a pie tin. The 
butter bannock for which Selkirk is noted is made by omitting the 
raisins, currants and orange peel. 

BLUEBERRY CAKE& 

2 cups blueberries, 1 egg, 

3 cups flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 
lyi cups milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 teaspoon salt, 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix the salt, sugar, baking powder and flour together. Stir in 
milk and melted butter, then the well-beaten egg^ and last the blue- 
berries. Bake in cups or gem pans. 

BREAKFAST CAKE 1. 

1 quart flour, 1 tablespoon each lard and butter, 

ly^ cups milk, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Rub the shortening and salt through the flour, with the hands ; 
beat the eggs light, and add to them 1^ cups of milk ; stir this 
into the flour. If not enough to make a stiff dough, add a little 
more milk; knead well with the hands 10 minutes, roll into cakes 
about half an inch thick and as large around as a pie plate ; put 
on well-buttered pie plates, and bake in a quick oven. At table 
do not cut these cakes, but break them. 



38 JOHNIsY CAKE. 

HOB CAKE. 

I plot corn meal, K teaspoon sail. 

Water. 
Pour enough boiling water over the meal to moisten it Add 
salt and let stand 10 minutes. Then add boiling water until lae 
batter will drop from the spoon. Bake in cakes on a hot griddle 
greased with fat salt pork. Serve hot with a piece of butter on 
the top of each cake. This was formerly a famous Southern dish. 

COTTAGE CAKES. 

1 cnp sour cream, % teaspoon soda, 

2 large cups flour, ^ teaspoon cream of tartaff 
}4 teaspoon salt, 1 egg. 

Sift the soda, cream of tartar and salt into the flour; stir in the 
cream and the well-beaten egg. Drop into buttered pans and bake 
in a hot oven 20 mmutes. 

NEW ENGLAND JOHNNY CAKE — 1. 
2 cups milk, 1 heaping tablespoon butter, 

2 cups Indian meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 cup flour, 3 eggs, 

}4 cup sugar, 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

Rub butter and sugar together ; add beaten yolks of eggs, and 
flour into which the baking powder has been sifted, then the milk, 
meal, and salt, and finally the stiffly-beaten whites of eggs. Mix 
quickly and bake in a shallow pan in a hot oven. 

NEW ENGLAND JOHNNY CAKE 2, 

1 cup Indian meal, 1 eggj 

1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, 

}4 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 

1 tablespoon white sugar. 
Sift salt and meal, also flour and cream of tartar together ; add 
sugar, mix well. Dissolve soda in milk, beating 1 minute, add 
cream, and stir the ingredients together, beating 3 minutes. 
Lastly add the well-beaten egg. Bake in a shallow pan in a quick 
oven. 

GOOD JOHNNY CAKE. 

2 cups corn meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 

3 cups flour, 4 teaspoons baking powder, 
^ cup sugar, 1 egg, 

3 tablespoons melted batter. 



JOHNNY CAKE. 39 

Mix meal, flour, sugar and baking powder together; break an 
egg into a pint bowl of cold water ; mix, add the meal and butter. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

JOHNNY CAKE 1. 

1 pint buttermilk, 3 eggs, 

1 heaping teaspoon soda, K teaspoon salt. 

White corn meal. 
Make a thin batter and bake in a quick oven. 

JOHNNY CAKE 2. 

1 cup sour cream, 1 or 2 eggs, 

1 cup Indian meal, X teaspoon salt, 

}^ cup flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, 

1 small teaspoon soda. 
Beat the egg and sugar, add salt and cream ; if necessary sour 
or sweet milk can be used in place of cream. If milk is used add 
2 tablespoons melted butter, stir in meal and flour rapidly, and 
bake 30 minutes in a quick oven. With sweet milk use 1 J heap 
ing teaspoons baking powder. 

JOHNNY CAKE 3. 

2 cups corn meal, 1 tablespoon cream, 

1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

2 cups sour milk, 1 tablespoon shortening, 

1 egg, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 teaspoon salt. 
Stir the sugar, cream and shortening together, and the egg, well 
beaten ; add the milk, in which the soda, dissolved in a little hot 
water, has been stirred. If the milk is very sour more soda will be 
needed ; add the meal, beating smooth, and stir in wheat flonr to 
make it thick. Bake in a hot oven. 

WHITE JOHNNY CAKE 4. 

2 cups flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 

1 cup white meal, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 
1>^ cups milk, 1 teaspoon salt 

K cup sugar, 1 egg. 

Mix rapidl}', and bake in a quick oven. 

CRACKERS. 

2 quarts flour, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 cup butter, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 

1 teat^pooQ salt, Milk or water to mi£ 



40 CRACKERS. 

Beat well and mix in more flour until brittle, roll quite thin and 
cut in squares, prick with a fork and bake in a quick oven. 

EGG CRACKERS. 

IS tablespoons sweet milk, 6 eggs, 

6 tablespoons butter, }i teaspoon soda. 

Mould with flour half an hour and roll thin. 

FRENCH CRACKERS. 

IK pounds sugar, % pound butter, 

IK pounds flour, 5 eggs, whites^ 

Before cooking brush over with white of egg and dip in sugar. 

EGO CRACKNELS. 
1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

5 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 

4 tablespoons butter, 4 eggs. 

Sift sugar, salt, baking powder and flour together ; rub in the 
butter and add the eggs, well beaten. Flour the moulding board, 
put the dough on it, and knead rapidly a few minutes. Cover 
with a damp towel 15 minutes; roll out very thin, about one- 
eighth of an inch, and cut with a biscuit cutter. When all are cut 
out have ready a pot of boiling, and a large bowl of cold water. 
Put a few at a time into the boiling water. When they come to 
the surface and curl over at the edges, take them out with a skim- 
mer and drop into the cold water. When all are done, lay on 
baking pans and bake them in a pretty hot oven 15 minutes. 
This is an old recipe. 

CRACKNELS. 

1 pint milk, 2 ounces butter, 

1 tablespoon yeast. 

Warm the milk and mix enough fine flour to make a light 

dough; roll thin and cut in long pieces, 2 inches broad. Prick 

well, and bake in a slow oven. 

CRUMPETS — 1. 
3 cups raised dough, 3 eggs, 

yi cup butter, Milk. 

With the hand work eggs and melted butter into the dough ; 
add sufficient milk to leave it a thick batter ; pour it into a but- 
tered pan ; let it remain half an hour. Then put the pan over the 
fire and heat it so as to scorch the flour. Bake half an hour. 



CRUMPETS. 41 

CRUMPETS 2. 

1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 cup yoast, 4 tablespoons butter, 

3 cups of flour, or more. 
Scald milk, and while warm, add salt and flour ; beat well and 
add the melted butter and 3'east. After beating thoroughl}^, cover 
and set in a warm place to rise. In 2 hours, if ver}' light, put 
into large, well-greased muffin rings placed on a hot griddle. 
Drop in the batter till the rings are half full. Bake brown on one 
side, then turn and brown the other. Take oflf, spread with butter 
and serve hot. If cold, these can be used by toasting on both 
sides, spreading with butter and serving hot. 

ENGLISH CRUMPETS. 
1 quart warm milk, 1^ cup yeast, 

3^ cup butter, Flour, 

Salt. 
Make a batter, not ver^^ stiff, of the milk, salt, j-east, and floiu*. 
When light add the butter, melted, let stand 20 minutes, and bake 
in cups or muflSn rings. 

FROGS. 

1 quart flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 

Pinch of salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix all together thoroughly, then add sufficient flour to make 
into a stiff batter. Drop with a spoon into a pan and bake in the 

oven. 

GEMS AND MUFFINS. 

Few know how necessary care is in the making and baking of 
gems, and that often the recipes which they find unreliable would 
prove very different if they were rightly used. The harder the 
batter is stirred the better. Put the gem pans on top of the 
stove and drop a little lard into the bottom of each to keep the 
gems from sticking. When the pans have become piping hot, fill 
each half full of batter while on the stove, then put them at once 
into a hot oven. Make a hotter fire for baking gems than for any- 
thing else. If the oven is right, the gems will rise until about 
three times as large as when put into the oven, and but a few 
minutes will be required for baking them. Everything should 
be about ready for the table, for, to be very nice, gems must be 



42 GEMS. 

served as soon as they are taken from the oven. These direc- 
tions appl}^ for muffins. 

BANANA GEMS. 
1 cup sugar, K cup water, 

1 cup flour, 3 eggs, 

1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Make batter and stir in 2 bananas sliced thin. Fill cups half 
full and steam an hour. Eat with thin cream. 

CORN MEAL GEMS 1. 

1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

1 cup meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 

% cup flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

}i cup butter, 3 eggs. 

Beat the butter first alone, then add the sugar and beat to a 
cream ; add the eggs well beaten, milk, and flour with the baking 
powder, salt and meal, all sifted together twice. Bake in a hot 
oven half an hour, if in deep gem pans ; or 25 minutes, if in shal- 
low pans. 

CORN MEAL GEMS — 2. 
1 cup Indian meal, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

}4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 cup sour milk, 2 eggs. 

Beat eggs and sugar together, and add butter and salt ; then the 
milk with soda dissolved in it, and mix with flour and meal. 
Sweet milk and baking powder can be used, if desired. Beat hard 
for a few minutes, drop from the spoon into hot buttered gem 
pans, and bake in a hot oven from 15 to 20 minutes. 

CORN MEAL GEMS 3. 

1 pint buttermilk, 1 teaspoon salt, 
}4 cup flour, 1 teaspoon soda, 

2 eggs, Corn meal. 

Make batter as stiff as it can be poured. Dissolve the soda in a 
little of the milk. Have the pans very hot, and fill them but half 
full. The gems will bake in 15 minutes. 

CORN MEAL GEMS 4. 

2 cups corn meal, 1 teaspoon soda, 

2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 

2 tablespoons sugar or molasses, 1 tablespoon butter. 



GEMS. 43 

Mix meal, flour and sugar with enough water to moisten and let 
stand over night. In the morning, stir thorough!}-, and add the 
dissolved soda, salt and butter. Drop the mixture in hot gem 
irons, and bake in a hot oven. 

GRAHAM GEMS 1. 

1 cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon butter, H teaspoon soda, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 1 egg, 

% graham and X white flour. 

Beat the sugar and Qgg, adding salt and melted butter, then the 
milk in which the soda has been dissolved, and make a batter stiff 
enough to drop, in a soft ball, from the spoon. Bake 20 minutes 
in a hot oven. 

GRAHAM GEMS 2. 

2 quarts buttermilk, 2 teaspoons soda, 
1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 2 eggs. 

Use as much graham flour as is needed for a stiff batter. The 
harder it is beaten, the lighter will be the gems when done. 

GRAHAM GEMS 3. 

Make a stiff batter with 1 pint warm water, graham flour and 1 
teaspoon salt. Fill the pans two-thirds full. Bake in a very hot 
oven. 

GRAHAM GEMS 4. 

1)4 pints graham flour K teaspoon salt, 

1 teaspoon sugar, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

1 teaspoon melted butter, 1 egg, 

Sweet milk for batter. 

Have the gem pans hot, fill them half full of the batter, and 
bake until nicely browned, but not sticky when broken open, in a 
very hot oven. 

''ENTIRE wheat" FLOUR GEMS. 
IK cups sour milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

2 tablespoons sugar, % teaspoon soda, 
1% cups entire wheat flour, 1 egg. 

Beat Qcrcr with sujiar, add the melted butter, salt, the milk ki 
which the soda has been dissolved, and the flour. Bake in hot 
gem pans, well greased. This can be varied by using 2 eggs and 



44 



GEMS. 



less flour, also substituting sweet milk and baking powder for the 
sour milk and soda. 

GEMS — 1. 
1 quart flour, 2 eggs, 

% pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

yi cup butter, 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

Warm the butter in the milk, add the beaten eggs and salt, and 
last the flour into which the baking powder has been sifted ; have 
irons quite hot and fill ; bake in a hot oven. 

GEMS — 2. 
1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 cup flour, 2 eggs, 

1 teaspoon baking powder. 
Beat eggs, adding the melted butter ; stir into the milk and mix 
with flour and baking powder. 

OATMEAL GEMS. 

1 pint oatmeal mush, Salt, 

2 tablespoons bread crumbs, Pepper, 

2 eggs. 
Beat eggs thoroughly, add salt and pepper and stir with the 
bread crumbs into the mush. Then put it into well-buttered gem 
pans, and bake until a nice brown. It can be baked in one pan if 
desired and served as it comes from the oven. 

OATMEAL GEMS. 

1 pint cold, cooked oatmeal, 1 Q^g, 

1 pint hot milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Rub the oatmeal in the hot milk until free from lumps, and add 
the well-beaten egg, and the baking powder sifted into some flour. 
Make a stiff batter and bake immediately. 

RAISED OATMEAL GEMS. 
1 quart flour, K cup yeast, 

IK cups milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 cup boiled oatmeal, 1 tablespoon sugar. 

1 saltspoon salt. 
Let the oatmeal be warm, rub out any lumps in the hot milk. 
Add butter, sugar, and stir in the flour and milk gradually, adding 
the yeast last of all ; beat for 8 minutes. Let rise over night, and 
in the morning warm the pans slightly, butter, fill about two-thirds 
full and let rise 1 hour. Bake well in a hot oven. 



45 



VIRGINIA PONE. 

1 quart milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

3 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter. 

Make a thin batter, adding the well-beaten eggs just before 
pouring into pans. Bake in a moderate oven. 

OAT CAKE. 

K pound oatmeal, % teaspoon salt, 

4 tablespoons water. 
Mix all together. Roll as thin as possible from a stiff dough. 
Cut in rounds or squares and bake on ungreased tins. Prick with 
a fork and bake in a quick oven. 

POP-OVERS. 

These favorite breakfast and teacakes are made much the same 
way, except that some housewives prefer to beat the 3'olks and 
whites of the eggs separately ; both methods ma}' be tried, and 
the one chosen for future use which is preferred. The same pre- 
cautions are taken in preparing the buttered cups and a proper 
oven heat, in avoiding the opening of the oven at first, and in 
baking the little cakes until their sides are brown. The general 
proportions are equal parts of flour and sweet milk, a saltspoon 
of salt and 1 Q^g to each cup of flour ; the cups for baking are 
filled about one-third. One pint or two cups each of flour and 
milk will make two dozen pop-overs ; the number one can eat is 
limited onl}' by capacity. 

BUCKEYE POP-OVERS. 

2 cups sweet milk, 2 eggs, 

2 cups flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

1 tablespoon butter, 1 saltspoon salt. 

"Warm the butter in the milk, add salt and stir in the eggs and 

flour. Bake in very hot cups or gem pans 20 minutes in a quick 

oven. 

POTATO CAKE. 
1 cup mashed potato, 1 saltspoon salt, 

1 cup sweet milk, 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Add flour to make a stiff batter. Butter the spider well and 



46 PUFFS. 

when hot put in the cake and cover closely. Turn it once and 
serve as soon as done. 

GRAHAM PUFFS. 
1 quart milk, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 

1 pint graham flour, 2 teaspoons salt, 

1 pint wheat flour, 3 eggs. 

Beat eggs well, add milk, and pour on to the flour, to which salt 
and baking powder have been added. Beat hard for 1 minute, 
pour into hot gem pans, and bake in a quick oven from 20 to 30 
minutes. 

PUFFS — 1. 
1 teacup milk, 1 saltspoon salt, 

3^ teacup flour, 1 egg. 

Mix flour and salt, and stir into the milk and egg. Pour batter 
into the gem pans and bake 30 minutes. 

PUFFS — 2. 
1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

K pint flour, 3 eggs, 

1 saltspoon salt. 
Beat eggs thoroughly, add the salt and melted butter and stir 
in the flour and milk. Have gem pans or stone cups very hot, 
and bake in a quick oven 20 or 25 minutes. 

RAISED PUFFS. 

If the wheat bread is light enough for the oven at breakfast 
time, have ready some hot lard in a deep kettle ; with the thumb 
and two fingers pull out some of the dough quite thin, and cut it 
some 2 or 3 inches in length ; as these pieces are cut, drop them 
in the lard and fry like doughnuts. To be eaten like biscuit or 
serve in a vegetable dish with a dressing of hot cream seasoned 
with pepper and salt. 

BOSTON RICE CAKES. 
1 cup hot rice, 3 eggs, 

1 tablespoon butter, Salt to taste, 

4 tablespoons flour. 

Boil a cup of rice, and while hot stir into it butter and salt. 
Beat the whites and yolks of eggs separately, and stir them into 
the rice. Thicken with flour, and bake in muflSn rings or on a 
delicately greased griddle. 



WAFFLES. 47 

WAFFLES. 
1 pint milk, 1 saltspoon salt, 

}4 cup butter, 3 eggs. 

Melt the butter in the milk, and when cool, add the well-beaten 
yolks and salt, stirring in the flour graduallj'. Beat well and add 
the stiflf whites. The batter should not be beaten after the whites 
are in. Bake immediately. 

CORN MEAL WAFFLES. 
1 pint sour milk, 1 teaspoon butter, 

1 cup corn meal, 1 teaspoon soda, 

2 eggs. 
Scald the meal ; while hot add lard or butter, then the other in- 
gredients, and flour enough to make a not too stiff' batter. Bake 
over a very hot fire. 

QUICK WAFFLES. 

2 pints milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 
1 cup melted butter, 6 eggs, 

4 teaspoons baking powder. 
Make a soft batter of the milk, butter, and flour with the salt 
added, add the well-beaten 3'olks, then the whites, and, just before 
baking, the baking powder. These are good with fewer eggs. 

PLAIN WAFFLES. 
IK pints cold milk. 1 saltspoon salt, 

1)4 pints flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

4 teaspoons butter, 3 eggs. 

Melt the butter in the milk, put salt and baking powder into the 
flour, mix all well together; add last of all the eggs, very thor- 
oughly beaten. This recipe can be used for rice or hominy waf- 
fles b}' adding 1 cup of either boiled rice or hominy. Remember 
in the case of mufHns and waffles, as well as bread and rolls, that 
if moist flour is used, more must be added to the amount named. 

RAISED WAFFLES. 

1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

2 tablespoons butter, /< cup yeast. 

Warm the milk and butter together ; beat the eggs and add them 
alternately with the flour ; stir in the 3'east and salt. When risen, 
heat the irons and butter them, pour in some of the batter and 
brown on both sides. Butter and serve with or without sugar and 
cinnamon. 



An CKULLCRS* 

RICE WAFFLES — 1. 
1 quart flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

2li cups milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 

I cup boiled rice, 1 teaspoon salt, 

}4 cup yeast, 2 eggs. 

Melt the butter in the milk, add 1 egg, well beaten, with sugar 
and salt. Mix the rice very thoroughly, and stir in the flour and 
yeast. Beat well and let rise over night, or if set in the morning, 
all day. Add 1 egg, well beaten, before baking. 

RICE WAFFLES— 2. 
IK pints boiled rice, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1>^ pints flour, 1 tablespoon butterf 

1 cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, 

3 eggs. 
Beat eggs and sugar together, adding the melted butter, and 
rubbing in the rice and salt. Stir soda into the milk, and add 
with the flour. Mix well and bake immediately. 

CRULLEKS AND DOUGHNUTS. 
Directions for boiling fat. — Put into a rather deep kettle 2 or 3 
pounds lard or beef suet, prepared for boiling. The article to be 
cooked must be completely covered. Test the heat of the fat. 
When it simmers, throw in a bit of bread ; if it browns directly, 
the fat is hot enough ; if it burns set the kettle on the back of the 
stove. Should there be danger of burning while cooking, drop 
into the fat a piece of raw potato. Doughnuts, like fritters, 
should cook in 8 minutes. If the bit of dough used to test the 
heat is slow in rising to the surface, wait till the heat has increased. 
Make the dough as soft as can be handled. When done, drain 
well in a skimmer and place in a colander, or lay for a moment on 
a piece of soft, thick paper. The use of eggs prevents the dough 
from absorbing fat. Doughnuts should be watched closely while 
frying. After using the fat cut a potato in slices and put in the 
fat to clarify it, place the kettle away until the fat settles, strain 
into an earthen jar kept for this purpose, and set in a cool place. 
Fry in an iron kettle, the common skillet being too shallow for 
the purpose. Crullers are better the day after the^^ are made. If 
lard is not fresh and sweet, slice a raw potato, and fry before put- 
ting in the cakes. 



CRULLERS. ^g 

PREPARED SUET. 

Use only beef suet, which is quite cheap, cleanly and healthy. 
Buy nice, whole, clean leaves, and cut them in small pieces, put 
into a pot, which will hold ten pounds, add a pint of water, and 
after the first hour stir frequently ; it takes about three hours with 
a good heat to render it Drain through a coarse towel, and if the 
suet is good it will require but little squeezing, and leave but little 
scrap or cracklings. Put to cool in pans or jars. It is cheaper 
and more wholesome than lard. Save also all the fat from beef, 
both raw or cooked. Put in a frying pan with just enough water 
to keep from burning. Cook over a slow fire till all is melted. 
After a few minutes add a few slices of potato, let stand 5 min- 
utes, take off the fire to settle, and strain it into jars. Fat pre- 
pared in this way will keep a long time, if covered closely after 
using from it. 

CRULLERS — 1. 

5 tablespoons melted lard, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 

4 tablespoons sugar, 3 eggs 

Powdered sugar. 
Beat the eggs with sugar and cinnamon ; add the lard, and flour 
enough to roll out one-half inch thick. Use as little as possible 
in preparing for boiling. Cut them in any shape desired. Drop 
carefully into the lard, turn them when ready, and as soon as 
cooked lay on brown paper. When dry, powder with sugar. 
These are very nice if not made too stiff. 

CRULLERS — 2. 

1 cup sugar, 4 eggs, 
% cup butter, Flour. 

Rub butter and sugar together, add the well-beaten eggs, and 
flour ; make very soft, and roll out one-half thick. Make into anj^ 
fancy shape. Boil in the hot fat, and when dry sift powdered 
sugar over them. 

CRULLERS — 3. 

2 tablespoons sugar, Pinch of soda, 
2 tablespoons cream or butter, Pinch of salt, 

2 eggs. 
Mix cream or butter and sugar, add salt, the well-beaten eggs 
and soda, flavor to taste, and stir in sufficient flour to roll out one- 



50 DOUGHNUTS. 

half inch thick on the board. Use as little flour in handling as 
possible, and fiy immediately. 

CREAM DOUGHNUTS. 

1 cup sour croam, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon soda, 

3 oggrs. 
Beat sugar and eggs together, add cream and soda, salt, any 
spice desired, and Hour enough to roll out. Cut in circles with a 
double cutter, and drop into the boiling lard. 

COMMON DOUGHNUTS. 

1 cup sugar, 3 tablespoons lard and butter, 

1 oup milk, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

1 salt spoon salt, 3 eggs, 

Nutmeg or cinnamon to taste. 

Eub butter and sugar together, add milk, salt, spice, the eggs, 
well beaten, and just enough flour to roll out one-half inch thick. 
Cut in circles, or long pieces to twist and fry in boiling lai*d. 

DOUG HN UTS. 

3 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 

1 cup sweet milk, 1 teaspoon salt, 

6 cups flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

3 eggs, 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

Beat eggs, sugar and butter together; add milk, spices and 
flour ; make sutru'iently stiff to roll out one-fourth inch in thick- 
ness ; cut in squares, make 3 long incisions in each square, lift up 
by taking alternate stilps between the finger and thumb, and ch'op 
into hot lard. 

riECRUST DOUGHNUTS. 

1 teacup sour dough, 3 eggs, 

^4 cup sugar, 1 saltspoon salt, 

}4 teaspoon soda, U nutmeg, 

Flour to make stiff dough. 

The sour dough used for wetting is prepared as follows: Save 
the bits of pie crust left from baking, add just enough sweet milk 
to cover, and put in a warm i>laee to become sour. When the 
doughnuts are mixed, rolled and cutout, let tliem lie on the board 
until they begin to rise, then fry in boiling lard. The dough must 
be as soft as can be easily handled. 



FRITTERS. ^i 

CANNED CORN FRITTERS. 

1 ponnd canned corn, 1 teasiwon salt, 

1 cup sweet milk, 3 eggs, 

3 teaspoons baking powder. 
Beat eggs thoroughly, stir all the ingredients together, adding 
enough flour to make a stiff batter. Fry like other fritters. 
Serve without a sauce. 

CREAM FRITTERS. 

IK pints flour, 6 eggs, 

1 pint milk, 2 teaspoons salt, 

1 pint cream. Nutmeg. 

Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately, add 3'olks to the 
milk, then the flour, salt, the whites, and lastly the cream. Stir 
the whole enough to mix the cream ; fry in small cakes. 

FRUIT FRITTERS. 

1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 

1 cup fruit juice or milk, 2 eggs, 
Pinch of salt. 
Beat whites and 3'olks of the eggs separately ; mix yolks with 
the flour and salt, stirring in milk and butter till a smooth batter 
the consistency of thick cream is formed. Then add the stiflfly- 
beaten whites. Dip fruit in this and boil in lard. Apples should 
be al)out half cooked before using, otherwise they will be but par- 
tially cooked when the fritter is done. 

HOMINY FRITTERS. 

1 cup boiled hominy, 2 eggs, 

I cup flour, 1 saltspoon salt, 

K cup milk, 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Beat eggs and salt, add the hominy and milk well mixed, and 
the flour into which the baking powder has been sifted. Drop in 
spoonfuls into hot lard, and fry to a rich brown. Serve with 
lemon sauce. 

LEMON FRITTERS. 

yz pound flour, ^ pound eggs, 

K pound sugar, 8 tablespoons milk, 

Juice and }4 grated peel of a lemon. 

Beat well the yolks of the eggs, add the flour and milk ; beat 

whites stiff with the sugar, lemon juice and some of the yellow 

peel grated off, or extract of lemon. Beat the whites well into 



52 



FRITTERS. 



the batter and proceed to cook. Have plenty of good lard, heated 
slowly; just as it begins to smoke, after bubbling, drop in. by 
spoonfuls enough fritters to fill the vessel without crowding. The 
cold batter will lower the temperature of the fat sufficiently to 
keep it at proper cooking heat. The fritters will begin to brown 
very quickly, and should be turned with a wire spoon. If they 
begin to color dark brown, check the heat immediately. If these 
directions are followed accurately, they may be lifted from the fat 
and laid upon a napkin or folded paper comparatively free from 
grease. Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, 
and eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as 
many of the dishes recommended as food for dyspeptics. 

ORANGE FRITTERS. 

1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon oil or melted butter, 

1 egg, j4 teaspoon salt, 

}^ cup water, Valencia oranges. 

It is better to prepare the batter, except the whites of the eggs, 
on the morning before the day the fritters are to be made. Put 
the flour into a bowl, add the beaten yolk of the egg, salt, and oil 
or butter, with water enough to make a rather thick fritter batter. 
This part of the batter French cooks think improved by standing 
two or three days. Just before using, add the white of 1 egg, 
beaten as stiff as possible. Then cut the oranges across in circles ; 
remove the yellow peel and the seeds from each, but do not take 
the pulp from the inner skin ; leave the orange circles together in 
a dish. Coat each slice of orange completely in the batter, and 
plunge it at once in boiling fat. As soon as the fritters are 
browned well lift them out of the fat, with a wire spoon, to drain. 
Lay them for a moment on coarse brown paper, such as bakers use, 
to absorb the fat on the outside of the fritter. Dredge them with 
powdered sugar, and serve at once, with a little cut lemon and 
powdered sugar. 

ORANGE, PEACI OR PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

2 cups flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 

1 cup lukewarm water 'A teaspoon salt, 

2 eggs. 
Melt butter, add to the vater with salt and the well-beaten 



FRITTERS. 



53 



yolks ; stir in the flour, and just before using add the whites 
beaten stiflT. Peel and quarter small, sweet oranges and lay in 
sweetened cream, add a little gi*ated orange peel to the batter be- 
fore frying. Peaches should be pared, pitted, and halved before 
putting into the cream. Pare the pineapple, pick in large pieces 
from the core and drop into the cream. The fruit should lie in 
the cream 1 hour before putting into the batter preparatory to fry- 
ing. Cover the pieces of fruit with the batter and drop into boil- 
ing hot lard. Fr}' till delicately browned. Take up on coarse 
brown paper, la}^ off on a platter, sift powdered sugar over them 
and serve at once. 

OYSTER FRITTERS 1. 

Make batter as for Plain Fritters and use the oyster liquor in- 
stead of milk. Omit the salt. Dip 03''sters in the batter, and 
boil in lard, sei-ving at once. Lay slices of lemon on them as 
served. 

OYSTER FRITTERS 2. 

Make batter as in No. 1, but chop oysters and mix in batter in- 
stead of frying whole. Less flour will be needed in the batter, for 
it must be quite thin. Cook and serve as in No. 1. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Scrape and lay in cold salted water half an hour. Put in salted 
boiling water, and cook till tender. Allow from 30 to 45 minutes 
for 3'oung parsnips, and from 15 to 30 minutes longer if old ones. 
If old, peel and split before boiling. When cooked cut in finger 
strips, dip in batter, the Plain Batter recipe is good, and fry till 
well puffed and brown in very hot and deep lard. The batter 
should be stiff enough to hold its shape when dropped from the 
spoon. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 

If fresh, peel, stone, and halve the peaches. Spread sugar over 
them and grated lemon peel if liked. Set away 2 hours in a cov- 
ered dish. Make batter for Fruit Fritters, using the juice or S3Tup 
from the canned peaches in place of milk. Dip the peaches singly 
in the batter. Cover well and fry in the boiliug fat. When a 
fine brown take out with a wire spoon and place on brown paper in 



54 FRITTERS. 

the open oven. Serve with powdered sugar, or a fruit sauce. 
Either fresh or canned peaches may be used. 

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS. 

Pick or grate fresh pineapple. Spread over with sugar and set 
away 2 hours. Take juice of this, or syrup of canned pineapple 
for the liquid used in making the batter for Fruit Fritters. Stir 
pineapple into the batter and fry in boiling lard. Serve with a 
fruit sauce made of sugar, raisins, and sliced bananas. 

POTATO FRITTERS. 

2 cups mashed potatoes, K teaspoon salt, 

K cup flour, 2 eggs, 

4 tablespoons butter, }4 pint milk. 

Melt butter and mix with potato; stir all the ingredients to- 
gether, adding whites of the eggs last. Have a stiff batter. Drop 
very carefully into the lard so the batter will not break in falling. 

queen's FRITTERS. 

1 cup hot water, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

yi cup butter, 1 slice of lemon, 

1 cup flour, 3 eggs. 

Boil butter in hot water with sugar and lemon. After boiling 
a few minutes, skim out the rind and be sure that there is a cup of 
water left ; if less than that, add sufficient to make it up, and 
while boiling, beat in the flour. Stir until smooth ; take off the 
stove and when cool stir in the eggs, one at a time, without beat- 
ing. Drop the batter from a spoon into boiling lard. Fry to a 
nice brown. These will puff up beautifully, and are delicious 
with maple syrup. 

RICE FRITTERS 1. 

2 cups boiled rice, 4 tablespoons milk, 
1 saltspoon salt, 2 tablespoons flour, 

3 eggs. 
Beat 3"olks of the eggs well, add the milk, stir in the flour 
smoothly, and add all to the rice, stirring it in well. Beat whites 
to a stiff froth and add last. Dip the batter up in spoonfuls and 
drop into hot lard. Brown well on both sides, take up with a wire 
spoon, and lay on brown paper or a wire sieve, for a moment, to 
drain off the fat. Serve hot, with sugar or syrup. 



FRITTERS. 55 

RICE FRITTERS 2. 

2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons butter, 

2 cups boiled rice, 2 tablospoous sugar, 

2 eggs, 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Mix the ingi-edients together, adding whites of eggs last, enough 

flour being used to make a stiff batter. Drop from a spoon into 

boiling lard and fry a nice brown. 

RICE FRITTERS 3. 

1 cup boiled rice, 2 teaspoons butter, 

1 cup flour, }4 saltspoon soda, 

1 cup milk, % grated lemon peel, 

>^ cup Zante currants, 3 eggs, 

}4 cup sugar. Grated nutmeg. 

Mix, adding sugar to the flour and stirring in lemon peel, cur- 
rants, and a little nutmeg just before boiling. 

ALABAMA RICE FRITTERS. 
1 pint milk, 1 quart flour, 

1 cup boiled rice, 4 eggs, 

3 teaspoons baking powder. 
Make into a batter; drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard, and 
serve with the following 

Sauce : 
1 pound sugar, 1)^ cups water. 

Stick of cinnamon. 
Boil until clear. Serve. 

SQUASH FRITTERS. 

IX cups milk, }4 teaspoon salt, 

1)4 cups winter squash, % saltspoon soda, 

1 egg. Flour for thick batter. 

Mix as previously directed, add the smoothly mashed squash, 
just before the whites. Beat the mixture till very smooth. Fry 
as for other fritters. These are very nice. 

VANITIES. 

2 eggs, Pinch of salt, 

y^ teaspoon rose-water. 

Beat eggs, stir in salt and rose-water, add sifted flour till just 
thick enough to roll out, cut with a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in 
hot lard. Sift powdered sugar on them while hot, and when cool 
put a teaspoon of jelly in the center of each one. Nice for tea 
or dessert. 



56 GEIDDLE CAKES. 

CORN OYSTEES 1. 

1 quart grated corn, 3 eggs, 

3 grated crackers, Pepper and salt. 

To the com add the eggs and crackers, beat "well and season 
with pepper and salt ; have ready in skillet butter and lard or beef 
drippings in equal proportions, hot but not scorching ; drop in 
little cakes about the size of an oyster, for this purpose using a tea- 
spoon ; when brown turn and fry on the other side, watching con- 
stantly for fear of burning. If the fat is just the right heat, the 
oysters will be light and delicious, but if not, heavy and soggy. 
Serve hot and keep dish well covered. It is better to beat whites 
of eggs to a stiff froth and add just before frying. 

CORN OYSTERS 2. 

1 pint grated corn, 2 eggs, 

3^ cup cream, Pepper and salt, 

yi cup flour, K teaspoon baking powder. 

Stir cream into corn, add baking powder' and flour with salt and 
pepper to taste ; last the well-beaten eggs. Fry in butter, drop- 
ping the batter in spoonfuls. Serve very hot with meats. 

GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

Use, if possible, a soapstone griddle. Though more expensive 
than iron, it is nicer, as it requires no greasing. If an iron grid- 
dle is used, grease with a piece of fat salt pork on the end of a 
fork. Have the griddle hot before beginning to fry cakes. Beat 
griddle-cakes thoroughly to ensure their perfection. Separate the 
eggSj whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites 
beaten to a stiff froth just before baking. Try a little of the bat- 
ter first, to be sure it is all right, and the griddle of the required 
heat. Allow one tablespoon of batter to each cake. Buckwheat 
batter may be poured from a cup, or dip out carefully with a large 
spoon, placing it when emptied in a saucer. If ^ the cakes are 
doughy inside, the griddle is too hot ; if dry and tough, it is not 
hot enough. Buckwheat cakes must be light, thick and spongy. 
Many prefer to bake them without stirring after the batter has 
risen. Never turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking. 
When done lay in a pile on a hot plate. 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 57 

BATTEE CAKES. 
3 cups sour milk, 3 tablespoons butter, 

3 cups flour, 2 level teaspoons soda, 

3 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt. 

Beat yolks of the eggs, add salt and melted butter, milk, and 
the fidur into which the soda has been sifted, and the whites just 
before baking. Sweet milk can be used with 3 teaspoons baking 
powder. This makes three dozen cakes. Less eggs and more 
flour can be used if desired. 

BATTER CAKES WITHOUT MILK. 

Mix either flour or cornmeal with warm water until of the con- 
sistency of cream, then put in a warm place where it will sour. 
Add bread crumbs from time to time, also dough left from cook- 
ing, bits of butter, and once in a while a little yeast. In the 
morning take as much as is needed for breakfast cakes, add salt, 
soda and enough flour to make the batter thicker than when eggs 
are used. These cakes are very nice. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is perfectly free from 
grits. The grain should be run through the smutter with a strong 
blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken through the 
whole process. Adulteration with r^'e or corn cheapens the flour, 
but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and is un- 
surpassed for griddle cakes, but as some do not like the simple 
flavor of the buckwheat a variety of recipes will be given. 

BUCKWHEAT BATTER. 
1 pint warm sweet milk, 1 cup yeast, 

1 pint warm water, 2 teaspoons salt, 

5 cups buckwheat flour. 
Put one-half the liquid 'in a stone crock, add buckwheat flour 
and beat well till smooth; add the remainder of the milk and 
water, and lastly the yeast. Or use the same ingredients and pro- 
portions, adding 2 tablespoons molasses or sugar. Water may be 
used instead of milk and water. 



58 TOAST. 

LEMON TOAST. 

1 pint milk, 3 tablespoons flo«ir, 

2 eggs, 1 saltspoon salt. 

Make dry toast. Dip the slices in this batter, then fry quickly 
on a oriddle. Put into a deep dish, wetting each slice with the 
following sauce, and pour the remainder over all. 

Sauce. 

3 eggs, whites, Lemon jnice, 

K cup sugar, 1 cup boiling water. 

Beat the eggs thoroughly, add the sugar, juice of 1 lemon, and 
stir into the boiling water. Serve hot. 

MENNONITE TOAST. 
1 pint sweet milk, Pinch of salt, 

3 eggs. 

Beat the eggs well, add milk and salt ; cut slices an inch thick 

from a loaf of baker's bread, remove crust, dip slices into the eggs 

and milk, fry like doughnuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a 

delicate brown, butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar, and 

serve hot. 

queen's toast. 
Add to 1 cup of sweet milk 2 tablespoons sugar, a little salt and 
a well-beaten egg ; dip in this slices of bread ; if dry, let it soak a 
minute, and fry on a buttered griddle until light brown on each 
side. Serve, if desired, with mixed cinnamon and sugar. This is 
a good way to use dry bread. 

scrambled toast. 
1 gill milk, 1 teaspoon bntter, 

Pepper, 1 saltspoon salt, 

Parsley, 8 or 10 eggs. 

Put butter in a frying pan on the store, add milk, salt, peppec, 
and a tablespoon of minced parsley. When it boils, break into it 
the eo-gs. Beat, and stir them around until well mixed. Have 
gome slices of toast dipped in hot milk, salted, peppered and but- 
tered, and laid on a flat dish. Spread the scrambled eggs on top 
of the toast, and serve at onoe. 



THOUGH it is true of some oook^ that, like poets, they are 
"born, not made," it is equally true that the great majority 
must learn how to cook. While admiring the genius that from as 
much sugar as liked, a piece of butter, a few eggs, a little cream or 
none at all, a pinch of salt, a dust of spice, just enough soda> all 
the flour needed, evolves the most delicious dishes, do not try to 
imitate. Ordinary mortals must be content to follow- a given 
recipe exactly, provided it comes from a reliable source, and bring 
experience, common sense, education and observation to bear upon 
the making and baking of bread and cake ; in fact, use brains to 
direct in all departments of cooking, as well as in other work. 

General directions : Butter, eggs, and flour should all be fresh. 
Very salt butter should be cut into bits and freshened in cold 
water. The so-called cooking butter should never be used, as heat 
develops its bad qualities. 

Keep eggs in a cool, dry place. The whites and yolks of eggs 
should be beaten separately, the yolks till they become frothy, and 
the whites so stiff that they cannot slip on the platter or dish when 
turned on its side. This requires more beating than to turn the 
plate upside down while the whites do not fall. Shake a little salt 
orer the whites after separating them ; set in a very cool place, 
and the beating will be more easily and quickly done. Unused 
whites must not be beaten ; they will keep for several days if set 
in a cool place. Unused yolks will keep for several days if thor- 
oughly beaten and set in a cool place. The white or yolk of a 
medium-sized egg weighs 1 ounce, a fact that it is convenient to 
know, as sometimes the white or yolk of -1 or more eggs is wanted 
from several that have been put away together. Flour should al- 
ways be sifted before using, and it ought to be dry. In using 
new flour for either bread or cake-making, it can be ripened for use 
by placing the quantity intended for baking in the hot sun a few 

hours, or before the kitchen fire. More or less flour may be needed, 

59 



6U 



CAKE. 



according to the climate, or the kind of flour used : new-process 
flour requires one-eighth less than other brands. 

Soda should be dissolved either in a little boiling water, or by 
beating 1 minute in the milk. Cream of tartar and baking powder 
should always be sifted into the flour. Great exactness should be 
used in their measurement. 

Regarding milk, note this : Sweet milk makes a cake that cuts 
firmly, like pound cake ; sour milk makes a light, spongy cake ; 
baking powder, or cream of tartar and soda are used with sweet 
milk, and with sour milk onl}^ soda. It may be remarked in gen- 
eral, that anything that can be made with sour milk is better made 
with sour cream or buttermilk, using a trifle less shortening. 

Use powdered sugar for delicate cakes, and granulated or ' ' Cof- 
fee A " for all other kinds. These are the best and most econom- 
ical. Some advise brown sugar for dark cakes ; if used, buy the 
best in order that it may be as clean and dry as possible. Unless 
otherwise specified, the term "sugar" in the recipes of this book 
refers to granulated sugar. 

Wash raisins thoroughly in warm water, it will not injure them, 
and after draining, spread them out to dry. A large quantity can 
be thus cleaned and kept for use in a jar in a dry, cool place. To 
stone or seed them, pour hot water on, let stand a few minutes, 
and cut with scissors or a sharp knife. The process is quick, and 
the seeds come out clean. 

Citron should be cut in thin slices and short lengths. 
Wash currants in as many waters as necessary to thoroughly 
clean them. An easy way is to put them into a coarse sieve, and 
set in a large pan of warm water ; stir constantly until the stems 
are broken off and have passed through the sieve, and the water is 
clean from dirt. Eub in a cloth and spread on platters to dry, 
stirring occasionally. 

Blanch almonds by pouring over boiling water, let stand a 
moment, drop in cold water, and slip off the loose skins. Pound 
with a little rose-water to prevent oiling. 
Select only fresh, soft figs for cooking. 

In grating lemons or oranges, use only the yellow part of the 
rind. 



CAKE. 61 

Cocoanut, either dessicated or the nut, should be very fresh. It 
is unfit for use otherwise. To prepare cocoanut, cut a hole through 
the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound 
the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, 
and set the pieces in the heater or in a cool, open oven over night, 
or for a few hours, to dry, then grate ; if all is not used, sprinkle 
with sugar, after grating, and spread out in a cool, dry place, and 
it will keep for weeks. 

Spices are much purer if ground in a spice-mill at home, but 
care must be used to thoroughly powder them. 

Choose a time of day for making cake when least liable to 
interruptions. 

Be exact in weights, or measurements, and careful that no in- 
gi'edient is omitted. 

It is as important to attend well to the baking as the making of 
the cake ; much, even more, depends on it. Have a steady fire. 
Use coal or hard wood. Ordinarily it will not be necessary if the 
fire is rightly prepared to add fuel during baking, but if it should 
be needed in a wood stove, add wood in small quantities, for if the 
heat slackens the cake will be heavy. Most cake requires a mod- 
erate heat ; however, in baking fruit cake, which requires many 
hours, the oven must be slow or the cake will burn. When a 
sheet of white paper browns delicately in the oven at the end of 5 
minutes, the heat is right for sponge cake. Jelly and layer cakes 
require a hot oven in order to bake quickly. Careful attention is 
needed to prevent the edges from burning. Many test ovens in 
this way : If the hand can be held in from 20 to 35 seconds, or 
while counting 20 or 35, it is a quick oven ; from 35 to 45 seconds 
IS moderate, and from 45 to 60 seconds is slow. Sixty seconds is 
a good oven for large fruit cakes. The light or heavy plate of the 
stove affects the temperature of the oven, and 20 seconds in one 
oven may mdicate what would be 30 or 35 in another. Each cook 
must ascertain the qualities and capabilities of her own stove, in 
order to do good work. After putting cake into the oven do not 
open, at least for 10 minutes, except for layer cakes. Open as 
seldom as possible, and with some cakes, never. Be careful no 
draughts of cold air from open window or door strike in. Move 



62 CAKE. 

cake very carefully if necessary to turn, and shut the door gently 
in order not to jar it. The directions given for regulating the heat 
of the oven in baking bread apply to cake. Do not try a cake to 
see if it is done, until sure it is done. Allow about 30 minutes for 
each inch of thickness if in a quick oven, and more time in a slow 
one. Test with a broom splint or knitting-needle, and if the 
dough does not adhere, it is done. Settling away from the pan a 
little, and stopping its singing, are other indications that the cake 
is ready to leave the oven. When removed, set the cake, while in 
the pan, on an inverted sieve to cool ; this secures a free circula- 
tion of air all round it, and cools it evenly. Set away, always 
right side up. A tin chest or stone jar is best to keep it in. 
Coffee cake should be put away before it is cold, and so closely 
wrapped in a large napkin that the aroma will not be lost. 

Before beginning to mix the cake see that the fire is well under 
way. Grease the tins thoroughly with a little lard or butter ; the 
latter has a tendency to blacken the surface. Line the bottom 
with paper ; for fruit cake use from 4 to 6 layers of paper on the 
bottom, and 1 or more on the sides of the pan, if tin or iron is 
used. Butter the paper next the cake. It is preferable to use a 
large earthen pan for fruit cake, and the turk's-head pan, the one 
having a funnel in the center, is especially desirable for all cakes 
requiring a long or very uniform baking. 

Prepare all the ingredients for use. Have ready a large earthen 
mixing bowl, which is much better than tin. Sift salt, baking 
powder, or cream of tartar and spice into the flour. Take a little 
of the measured flour and sift lightly over the fruit to be used. 
Have the flour browned previously for dark cakes. Break and 
separate the eggs and beat the yolks. Bub the butter and sugar 
to a cream with a wooden or silver spoon, or until it looks very 
light and is of a creamy consistency. If the bowl is warmed this 
can be more easily done, but avoid melting the butter ; add the 
frothy yolks, and a little flour, beating steadily, then one-half of 
the milk, if called for, more flour, the remainder of the milk, and 
the flour. Beat thoroughly, that is, till well mixed, then cut and 
fold in the previously beaten whites, so that they shall be well in- 
corporated with the mixture. There are 4 processes used in mak- 



CAKE. 03 

ing cakes or working with eggs, and they are indicated by their 
names, stirring, beating, cutting, and folding. The last two 
should always be used where the whites of the eggs are particularly 
necessary either in cakes, creams or jellies. Though spice is 
mixed with the flour, flavoring, such as extracts or juices, should 
be added just before baking. Add fruit after all other ingredients. 
If but little fruit is used, it can be dropped in layers while putting 
the mixture in the pans. The pans should be filled only two-thirds 
full, leaving room for the cake to rise. 

Cookies, gingersnaps, jumbles and wafers require a hot oven to 
bake quickly. If they become moist by keeping, heat well a few 
minutes. To cut cake while warm, let the knife be hot. 

Ordinary unused writing paper, the clean side of a letter, the 
blank paper from a newspaper publishing oflSce, or smooth, light 
brown paper like manilla, not too heavy, are all suitable for lining 
cake tins. 

The usual kitchen measurement for a cup is a one-half pint, and 
it will be so understood in this book, except when otherwise indi- 
cated. 

angel's food. 

11 eggs, whites, 1 cup flour, 

114, cups granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 
1 teaspoon flavoring. 

Sift the flour 4 times, then add the cream of tartar and sift 
again, but measure before putting in the cream of tartar ; sift the 
sugar and measure it ; beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large plat- 
ter ; on the same platter add the sugar, then the flour, beating 
lightly all the time. Add the flavoring last, and do not stop beat- 
ing until put into the pan to bake. A pan with a tube in the cen- 
tre should be used. Line with paper, using no greese, and fill not 
more than three-fourths full. Bake in a moderate oven about 40 
minutes. Test with a broom splint and if too soft let remain a 
few minutes longer. Do not open oven till cake has been in 15 
minutes. When done, turn upside down to cool. Take from pan 
when cold, and ice the bottom if desired. 



64 CAKE. 

ALMOND, HICKORY NUT OR COCOANUT CAKE. 

1 pound sugar, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 pound flour, K teaspoon salt, 

1^ pound butter, 1 grated cocoanut, or 

4 eggs, 1 pint hickory nuts, or 

1 cup sour cream, 1 pint blanched almonds. 

Mix all thoroughly, grate in the white part of a cocoanut, or stir 
in 1 pint of hickory nuts, or blanched almonds pounded. 

BEAUTIFUL CAKE. 

6 eggs, whites, 3 cups sugar, 

1 cup butter, 3 cups flour, 

1 cup sweet milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

Flavor with rose or almond. 

BLACK CAKE 1. 

13 eggs, 1 pound citron, 

1 pound sugar, Yt. nutmeg, 

1 pound flour, 1 teaspoon mace, 

1 pound butter, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 
3 pounds raisins, 2 tablespoons coffee, 

3 pounds currants, 3 tablespoons rose-water, 

yi pound finely chopped fresh figs. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add yolks of the eggs, part 
of the flour, the spice and whites of the eggs well beaten ; then 
add remainder of the flour, the coffee, rose-water, and fruit, ex- 
cepting citron ; mix thoroughly. Line sides and bottom of an 8 
quart pan with buttered paper, putting 3 layers of paper on the bot- 
tom ; put in the mixture adding the sliced citron in alternate lay- 
ers. Bake 4 or 5 hours in a slow oven. 

BLACK CAKE 2. 

6 eggs, 1 teaspoon mace, 

3^ cup butter, 1 teaspoon cloves, 

2 cups brown sugar, 3 pounds raisins, 

3 cups flour, browned, 3 pounds currants, 
3 cups sweet milk, Yt. pound citron, 

3 tablespoons molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 
1 tablespoon cinnamon, 3 teaspoons cream of tartar. 
Bake 3 hours. 



CAKE; 65 

Caram.el, 

}4 pound brown sugar, }i cup milk, 

}i pound chocolate, scant, Butter size of an egg, 

3 teaspoons vanilla. 

Mix thoroughly, cook till thick, adding the vanilla after it is 
taken from the fire, spread on the cake and set in the oven to dry. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE — 1. 

7 eggs, yolks, 1 cup sweet milk, 

1 cup butter, 4 cups flour, 

3 cups brown sugar, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 

9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate. 

This may be baked as a layer cake, making a white cake of the 
whites of the eggs, baking in layers, and putting them together 
with frosting, alternating the layers. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE 2. 

2 cups sugar, 2)4 cups flour, 

1 cup butter, 5 eggs, reserving 3 whites, 

1 cup sweet milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

This makes 2 flat cakes. 

Icing. 

3 eggs, whites, 6 tablespoons grated chocolate, 
lyi cups powdered sugar, 2 teaspoons vanilla. 

MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

White part. 

1 cup sugar, 2 cups flour, large, 

}i cup milk, 4 eggs, whites, 

% cup butter, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

Stir the sugar and butter to a cream, add the milk slowly, the 
flour sifted thoroughly with the baking powder, and last the whites 
of the eggs beaten stiff. 

Darh part. 

% cups sugar, 1% cups flour, 

%. cup butter, small, 4 eggs, yolks, 

K cup milk, lYz teaspoons baking powder, 

7 tablespoons grated chocolate. 

Put in pans alternately 1 large spoonful of the white and daark. 



66 CAKE. 

RICE SPONGE CAKE. 

1 cup white sugar, 5 eggs, 

1 cup rice flour. Flavor to taste. 

Beat all together 20 minutes, bake one-half hour in a moderate 
oven. 

SCOTCH CAKE. 

2 cups butter, 4 cups flour, 
1 cup sugar, 2 eggs. 

PHIL SHERIDAN CAKE. 

16 eggs, whites, 1 cup butter, 

4 cups powdered sugar, 1}^ cups sweet milk, 

5 cups sifted flour, 1 teaspoon soda, 

3 teaspoons cream of tartar. 

Dissolve the soda in the milk ; stir the sugar and butter to a 
cream, add whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, the flour, 
then the milk and soda ; stir several minutes, and add the cream 
of tartar and flavoring. This makes a large cake. 

SNOW CAKE — 1. 

>4 cup butter, K cup sweet milk, 

1 cup sugar, 4 eggs, whites, 

1}4 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 

Flavor with lemon. 

SNOW CAKE 2. 

10 eggs, whites, 1 cup flour, 

1}4 cups powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 
Flavor to taste. 

Beat the whites to a stiff froth, sift the sugar lightly over them, 

and stir well, add the flour and cream of tartar sifted together, 

and flavor. 

SNOWBALL CAKE. 

1 cup white sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 

% cup butter, Flour, 

}4 cup sweet milk, Flavor with lemon, 

3 eggs, whites, A little citron sliced very thin. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the milk gradually, stirring 

well, then the whites, beaten stiff ; sift the baking powder into 1 

cup of flour and stir in slowly, then the citron and flavoring, and 

enough more flour to make nearly as stiff as plain cake. Bak© in 

lloaf. 



CAKE. 67 

CARAMEL CAKE. 

}i cup butter, >^ cup sweet milk, 

1 cup powdered sugar, 4 eggs, whites, 

IX cups flour, 1 teaspoou baking powder. 
Bake in layers. 

Filling, 

zyi cups C sugar, % cup cream, 

1 tablespoon melted butter. 

The particular part is in making and applying the filling or cara^ 
mel. Boil all together in a clean smooth skillet, stirring only a 
little to prevent scorching. To ascertain when it is cooked enough, 
let a drop fall into a cup of cold water ; when it rubs to a pasty 
condition between thumb and finger, take from the fire and stir to 
the consistency of veiy thick molasses, when it may be placed be- 
tween the layers and over the top and sides, forming a most deli- 
cious cake. 

CHOCOLATE CARAMEL OAKE. 

IK cups sugar, 23^ cups flour, 

% cxi'Q butter, 3 eggs, 

K cup milk, 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
Bake in jelly tins. 

Caramel. 

1 pint brown sugar, K cake chocolate, 

X cup milk or water, Butter size of an egg. 

Boil 20 minutes, or until thick enough, and spread between the 
cakes while warm. For the frosting of top of cake use: 

2 eggs, whites, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 

\%, cups sugar, 3 teaspoons grated chocolate, heaping. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

2 cups sugar, 4 cups sifted flour, 

1 cup butter, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

1 cup milk, 5 eggs. 

Resei-ve 3 of the whites for frosting. Bake in 3 layers in deep 
jelly tins. 

Frosting. 

\% cups powdered sugar, 2 teaspoons vanilla, 

6 tablespoons grated chocolate, 3 eggs, whites. 



68 FILLINGS FOR CAKE. 

FILLINQS FOR LAYER CAKE. 

APPLE JELLY. 

1 large tart apple, 1 egg, 

1 cup sugar, 1 lemon, juice and rind. 

Grate the apple and the rind of the lemon, add the other ingre< 
dients and boil the jelly about 5 minutes. 

CINNAMON JELLY. 

2 eggs, yolks, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

1 level tablespoon cinnamon. 

COFFEE FILLING. 

1 tablespoon cream, 3 eggs, 

2 heaping tablespoons cornstarch, 3^ cup sugar, 

1 cup strong black coffee. 

Add the cream and sugar to the coffee, and heat ; when boiling 
hot add the cornstarch dissolved in a little cold coffee, and let boil 
3 minutes. Then pour slowly over the well-beaten eggs and stir 
rapidly. If not thick enough set over boiling water and stir till 
the eggs set a little, but not long enough to curdle. Spread be- 
tween the layers and ice with Coffee Icing. Use Mocha and Java 
coffee mixed. 

ICE CREAM FILLING. 

1 pound almonds, Sugar to sweeten, 

1 pint thickest sweet cream. Flavor with vanilla. 

Beat the cream until it looks like ice cream, make very sweet, 
and flavor ; blanch and chop the almonds, stir into the cream, and 
put very thick between each layer. 

PEACH FILLING. 

Cut peaches in thin slices, prepare cream by whipping, sweet- 
ening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired, put layers of peaches 
between the sheets of cake, pour cream over each layer and over 
the top. This may also be made with ripe strawberries. 

WHIPPED CREAM FILLING. 

Use any recipe for nice la3'^er cake, and put the parts together 
with whipped cream. 



ICING. 69 

ICING. 

Keep the eggs in a very cold place. Break the whites on to 
a platter or large shallow dish. Allow one small cup or one- 
third pound of powdered sugar to the white of an egg. Beat the 
whites thoroughly before adding, gradually, the sugar. The length 
of time required for beating depends on the coldness and freshness 
of the eggs. Some experienced cooks advise putting the sugar di- 
rectly into the whites and beating all together. It is claimed, 
icing 80 made does not crumble easily. If a soft icing is desired 
add one-fourth pound of sugar, or ten teaspoons of spgar and one 
of cornstarch to the white of each egg. Cake can be iced while 
warm ; in the case of fruit cake, it is better to leave it until with- 
in a few hours before wanted, as icing will turn yellow by staniding. 
Allow the whites of two eggs for a large cake. Remove the loose 
parades from the cake with a cloth, and dust with Sour. Flavor 
tcing Just befbre using ; if lemon juice is preferred, estra sugar 
will be needed for the additional liquid. To color icing, use either 
cochineal, a red jelly or strawberrj'^ syrup for a pink, strong coflfee 
for amber, and the strained juice of an orange, in which has been 
soaked the rind, for a delicate yellow. There are fruit syrups and 
powders which give almost an}'^ color desired. Powdered or con- 
fectioner's sugar should always be used except for boiled icing ; 
for that the granulated is better. Remember to beat the eggs en- 
tirely in one direction, that is, from left to right, or right to left ; 
do not change the order while beating. It is as important here as 
in cake making. 

Put the cake on a smooth, flat surface, where it can be undis- 
tm*bed, with a layer of clean white paper under it. Drop a large 
spoon of icing on the center of the cake, and spread smoothly with 
a knife dipped in hot water to prevent sticking. Work as rapidly 
as possible to do it well. When finished set the cake in a cool 
place to harden. It is nice, when the frosting is almost cold, to 
take a knife and mark the cake in slices. Any ornaments, such as 
gum drops, candies, orange flowers or ribbons should be put o& 
while the icing is moist When dry ornament with piping, which 
te a stiff icing squ^esed through a pap^ funnel, and may be tinted 
with colored sugars. 



70 icrN». 

ALMOND lOING. 

% pint powdered sugar, 3 eggs, whites, 
3^ pint sweet almonds, 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla. 
Blanch the almonds by putting them in boiling water, stripping 
off the skins, and spreading upon a dry cloth until cold ; pound a 
few of them at a time in a mortar till well pulverized ; mix cai-e- 
fully tJie whites of the eggs and sugar, add almonds, flavor, and 
dry in a cooi oven or in the open air when weather is pleasant. 

BOILED ICING. 

3 eggs, whites, 4 tablespoons hot water, 

1 large cup sugar. 

Boil the sugar and water briskly for 5 minntes, or until it 
threads when dropped from the end of the spoon. Then, with left 
hand, pour the boiling syrup upon the beaten whites in a small 
stream, while beating hard with right hand. This is an excellent 
frosting. If preferred, add one-half pound sweet almonds blanched 
and pounded to a paste, or 1 cup of hickory nut meats, chopped 
fine, and it will be perfectly delicious. This amount will froat the 
top of two large cakes. 

BOILED ICING FOR LAYER CAKE. 

4 eggs, whites, % pint boiling water, 

4 cups sugar, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, 

1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Boil the sugar and water till clear as syrup and pour over the 

whites beaten stiff ; stir until it is a stiff cream ; add cream tartar 

and vanilla. This is nice for filling. 

BOILED ICING V7ITH0UT EGGS. 

}4 cup milk, 1 teaspoon butter, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Boil all 10 minutes, or till a little thick, and spread on cake. 

BOILED ICING WITH BAISINS. 

1 cup sugar, 4 tablespoons water, 

% cup raisins, stoned, and chopped fine, 1 egg, white. 

Boil the sugar and water till it will thread from the spoon ; pour 
on to the beaten egg, and work with an egg beater till thick 
enough to spread on the cake. Take out enough for the top layer, 
and with the rest mix the raisins ; spread between the layers. 



ICING. 71 

ICING — 3. 

1 lemon, juice, 1 pound powdered sugar, 
4 eggs, whites, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, 

1 teaspoon sifted white gum arabic. 
Beat the whites stiff and add the powdered sugar, then the corn- 
starch, gum arabic, and lemon juice ; beat all well together and 
spread on cake. 

LEMON ICING. 

To the juice of 1 lemon, strained, add sugar till it is thick 
enough to spread well. Put on cake and dry in a cool place for 1 
or 2 hours ; another layer can be added if desired. 

SIMPLE ICING. 

Measure out a cup of granulated sugar ; add 5 tablespoons of 
water ; stir the water and sugar together till the sugar dissolves, 
but do not stir afterward. Let boil till it ropes — that is, till a 
little taken up with a teaspoon forms a continuous string, instead 
of falling in drops like a thin liquid. Have the white of 1 egg 
beaten thoroughly. Let one pour the thick s^Tup into the white 
of the egg while another beats it. Beat for 2 or 3 minutes till 
thick and creamy. Pour instantly over the cake to be iced, as it 
will harden in a few moments after it is cold. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. 

3 cups sugar, K pound almonds, chopped fine, 

)4 cup water, % small cup large raisins, 

2 eggs, whites, A little citron sliced thin. 

Boil the sugar and water till the syrup is waxy ; pour it over the 
beaten whites, and beat till cool j then add almonds, raisins and 
citron, and spread on the cake. 

WINDOM ICING. 

yi sheet Russia isinglass, 1 pound pulverized su^ar. 
}^ cup boiling water, ^ cup raisins. 

Bissolve isinglass in water, stir in sugar, then raisins, seeded 

and chopped. Beat weD. 

YELLOW ICING. 

1 egg, yolk* 9 heaping teaspoons powdered sugwr. 

Vanilla to flavor. 

Use the same day as made, for it is nice only wh^i fresh. 



72 COOKIES. 

COOKIES AND JUMBLEB. 

In mixing cookies avoid using mor« flour than necessary t© roll 
out the dough, as it makes them hard. In such a case woik in 
a little milk or melted butter. Flour the rolling pin, board and the 
cutter to prevent sticking. See that the dough is rolled out evenly, 
in order that the cookies may bake evenly. Bo not crowd them in 
the pan, that they may keep their shape. Let the pan be of sheet 
iron, or use a piece of sheet iron the size of the oven. Turn- it 
when the cookies are half baked. The oven should be hot. They 
should bake in 10 minutes unless rolled very thick; jumbles re- 
quire about 15 minutes. 

A nice " finishing touch" can be given by sprinkling them with 
granulated sugar and rolling over lightly with the rolling pin, then 
cutting out and pressing a whole raisin in the center of each ; or 
when done a very light brown, brush them over while still hot 
with thick syrup of sugar and water, sprinkle with currants and re- 
turn to the oven a moment. 

Graham cookies can be made by using the most valuable recipe, 
substituting graham flour where white flour is called for, and 
making them a little less stitf than usual. Use flour when rolling 
them out. 

Ada's sugar cakes. 

3 cups sugar, 3 eggs, 

2 cups butter, 1 teaspoon soda, 

Flour sufficient to roll. 

COOKIES. 

1 cup butter, K teaspoon soda, 

2 cups sugar, 2 eggs, 

1 cup water or sweet milk, Flavor with lemon or vanilla. 
Just enough flour to roll. 

CHEAP COOKIES. 

1 cop sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 

}4 cup milk, K teaspoon soda, 

1 egg. Flavor, 

Flour to roll. 

If desired 1 tablespoon of ginger or cinnamon can be added to 

this recipe. 



COOKIBS. 



73 



O&ISP CMX>EIES. 



1 cup butter, 

2 cups sugar, 

3 eggs, 

1 teaspoon soda. 



S teaspoons cream of tartar, 
1 teaspoon cinnamon 
1 teaspoon nutmeg, 
Flour to roll. 



Spread a little sweet milk over each cookey, sprinkle with sogsu* 
and bake in a quick oven. 

CRISP COOKIES WITHOUT SODA. 

1 pound flour, 5 eggs, 

1 pound sugar, ^ pound butter. 

Flavor with nutmeg or lemon. 
Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks, well-beateii 
whites, flour, and flavoring. Roll thin and bake in a quick oven. 



2 cups sugar, 
1 cup milk, 
1 cup butter. 



EGOLESS COOKIES. 



X teaspoon soda. 

Flavor, 

Flour to roll. 



FRUIT COOKIES 1. 



1}4 cups sugar, 
1 cup butter, 
1 cup currants, 
1 cup raisins, chopped, 
X nutmeg, grated, 
Bake in a moderately hot oven. 



1 teaspoon cinnamon, 
1 teaspoon allspice, 
1 teaspoon cloves, 
1 teaspoon soda. 
Flour to roll thin. 



FRUIT COOKIE S- 



2 cups sugar, 
1 cup sour cream, 
% cup butter, 
}4 cup raisins, 
}4 cup currants, 
}4 cup citron. 



2 eggs, 

1 teaspoon soda, 

1 teaspoon cinnamon, 

1 teaspoon cloves, 

1 teaspoon allspice, 

Flour to mould firm. 



Seed and chop the raisins, chop the citron fine ; roll one-fourth 
inch thick, and watch carefully while baking or they will burn. 

PREMIUM GRAHAM COOKIES. 

3 cups sugar, 1 egg, 

1 cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 cup butter, or lard, Graham flour to make a soft dough. 
EoU thin and bake in a hot oven. 



74 ©INQER BREAD. 

ALUM GINGER BREAD 

IH pounds butter. Water to dissolve alum, 

^ pound soda, Flour to make stiff, 

3^ cap sweet milk, 3 tablespoons ffinger, if desired, 

1 teaspoon alum, ( 1 egg, 

1 gallon molasses or strained < An equal qvantlty of srvroet 



honey, ( cream. 

DissQlvG the soda in the milk, and the alum in just enough water 
to cover it, use flour to make dough stiff enough to roll out*, put 
the molafises in a votj large dish, add the soda and butter melted, 
then all the other ingredients ; mix in the evening and set in a 
warm placje to rise over night; in the morning knead it a long 
time like bread, roll into squares one-half an inch thick, and bake 
in bread pans in an oven heated about right for bread To make 
it glossy, rub over the top just before putting it into the oven the 
well-beaten egg and sweet cream, stirring cream and egg well to- 
gether. This ginger bread will keep an unlimited time. The 
recipe is complete without ginger, but it may be used. Over 50 
years old, and formerly used for general muster days. 

EXCELLENT GINGER BREAD 1. 

1 cup sugar, 5)4 cups flour, 

1 cup butter, 6 eggs, 

1 cup buttermilk, 2 teaspoons soda, 

2 cups molasses. Ginger and cinnamon to tasta. 

BXOELLENT GINGER BREAD 2. 

2 Qggs, }4 teaspoon gingea*, 

}^ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamoa, 

5^ 6up N. O. molasses, % teaspoon soda, 

% Qnp cream, Hot water to dissolve soda, 

}i ©up sour milk. Flour. 

Stir together the sugar and well-beaten yolks, add the molasses, 
cream and sour milk, and mix thoroughly ; add ginger, cinnamon, 
and enough flour to make as stiff as plain cake ; then stir in thor- 
oughly the whites beaten stiff, and the soda dissolved in hot water. 
This is more difficult to make successfully than plain cake. If it 
is too thin, it is liable to fall ; and if too stiff it is not so good. 
Bake in 2 deep tins, and serve while warm. 



GINGER SNAPS. 
GINGER DROPS. 

K cup sugar, 2 eggg, 

K cup butter, 2 teaspoons soda, 

1 cup mol&ssea, 1 teaspoon ginger, 

1 cup boiling water, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 

2H cups flour, 1 teaspoon cloves. 

Dissolve the soda in the boiling water, add the egga, well 
beaten, just before baking. Baked in gem pans, or as common 
ginger bread, and eaten warm with a sauce, they make a nice 
dessert. 

GINGER SNAPS 1. 

8 ounces butter, 2 teaspoons ginger, 

4 ounces sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves, 

6 ounces preserved orange peel, 1 teaspoon soda, 
1 pint molasses, 2 tablespoons boiling water. 

1 pound and 6 ounces flour. 
Dissolve the soda in the water, soften the butter and mix it with 
the sugar and molasses, add the spices, orange peel and soda, beat 
well and stir in the flour ; flour the board and roll the paste as 
thin as possible, cut in circles and bake in a very quick oven. 
This quantity makes one hundred and twenty-nine snaps, about 
three inches across. 

GINGER SNAPS 2. 

1 egg, X cup boiling water, 

1 cup molasses, 1 tablespoon soda, level, 

1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon ginger, 

1 cup butter and lard mixed, Flour to mould out rather soft 
Roll thin and bake quickly. 

GINGER SNAPS 3. 

6 pounds flour, 1 quart molasses, 

13^ pounds butter, 4 ounces ginger, 

1% pounds sugar, 1 nutmeg, grated. 

Cinnamon to taste. 

GINGER SNAPS 4. 

2 cups N. O. molasses, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 

1 cup butter and lard, 2 teaspoons soda, 

1 cup white sugar, 3 tablespoons water, 

1 teaspoon ginger, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 

1 teaspoon allspice, Flour. 

Mix all together except flour and sugar ; add flour to make stiff, 
then the sugar, make in a roll, cut off small pieces, flatten them 



76 



NUT WAFERS. 



slightly, place in tins 1 inch apart and bake in a moderate oven. 
When cold, put in a covered jar, let stand a few days and they are 
ready for use. 

MOLASSES COOKIES. 

2 cups N. O. molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon ginger, 

X cup butter, 3 eggs, 

X cup cold water, Flour to roll out. 

Do not roll too thin, bake in a quick oven. 

PEPPER NUTS. 

1 cup citron, chopped fine, 1 teaspoon soda, 

1 teaspoon ground pepper. Hot water to dissolve soda, 

4 eggs, Flour to mould into small balls. 

NUT WAFERS. 

1 cup brown sugar, X teaspoon salt, 

1 cup nut meats, 2 tablespoons flour, 

3 eggs. 
Beat the eggs thoroughly and add the sugar, salt, flour and nut 
meats. If not stiff enough to drop in a firm mass, add more flour, 
and drop in small quantities on well-buttered paper. Bake about 
5 minutes in a quick oven. 





Confectionery 



THE '< sweet tooth" of the world has not only created a d». 
mand for candies, but requires them to be made from pure 
materials, and according to scientific methods. The secret of suc- 
cessful candy-making lies in understanding the action of heat 
upon sugar, and the effect of certain things on boiled sugar. A 
sugar boiler's thermometer is desirable in home work, if candy is 
to be frequently made and in a considerable quantity. The exact 
degrees of heat for producing certain results can then be easily as- 
certained. In order to help all who wish to make candy, the 5 
degrees Fahrenheit used by confectioners will be given, and as far 
as possible, the directions for testing without a thermometer. 

1st. The Smooth : 215 to 220 degrees F. 

2iid. The Thread : 230 tc 235 degrees F. 

3rd. The Feather ; 240 to 245 degrees F. 

4th. The Ball : 250 to 255 degrees F. 

5th. The Crack i 310 to 315 degrees F. 
The Smooth degree indicates a thick syrup ; dip the stem of a 
clay pipe into the syrup, and if it feels oily to the touch the degree 
is reached, and may be used for crystallizing purposes. The 
Thread is known when the syrup, taken from the pipe by the 
thumb and finger, parts quickly and hangs in small threads. The 
Feather is indicated by the greater tenacity of the thread, so that 
it can be drawn out in long, fine hairs, without breaking. Cream 
for chocolate candies and fruits is taken from sugar at this degree. 
The Ball degree is reached when on drawing the pipe through the 
sugar and dipping it into cold water, the sugar dropping from it 
can be worked like putty. This is used in makmg cocoanut can- 
dies, icing, and almost any variety of grained candies. The Crack 
must be tested in like manner; the sugar must leave the pipe 
clean, and when dipped in water, and bitten, must break oflP 
sharply without sticking to the teeth. The soft and hard Crack 

77 



78 CONFECTIONERY. 

are its fii'st and last degrees. Beyond this point the sugar turns 
yellow and rapidly crystallizes, and when tested in water shows 
softer, and more brittle. If allowed to boil to 320 deg. F. it 
reaches a point called Caramel, and must not be allowed to remain 
longer on the fire. Caramel is used for coloring candies, and mak- 
iug brown sauces and gravies. Sugar boiled to the Crack is used 
for making drops, rocks, toflSes, and all clear candies. Sugar 
boiled beyond 250 degrees will grain in a hard lump. Cream of 
tartar prevents this by cutting the grain. Its action makes the 
sugar easily worked while warm, and transparent when cold. One 
quarter ounce or two teaspoons of cream of tartar is sufficient to 
use with eight pounds of sugar. Let the fire be firm and steady, 
before putting on the sugar to boil, so as not to need additional 
fuel ; the quicker the boiling is through, the better is the color and 
durability of the sugar. If it should catch at the bottom of the 
pan, lift it off, and shake a few ashes over the fire. Dark sugars 
require longer boiling and are very liable to burn. Let the heat 
be applied only to the bottom of the pan ; otherwise particles may 
be burned on the sides and spoil the whole material. In making 
caramels, the hotter the fire, the lighter the color ; and the smaller 
the quantity, the finer the flavor. For a small quantity use a small 
pan in cooking, as there is less danger of burning ; it must be 
large enough to allow for the expansion of boiling without the con- 
tents running over the sides. Caramels are a delicate confection, 
and require careful attention. Fruit candies are much finer when 
made from pure fruit juices aud not from extracts. All color and 
flavoring, except chocolate and nuts, is put in after the boil is re- 
moved from the fire. In pouring candy on to the slab or platters, 
never scrape the pan or allow any of the scrapings to fall into the 
material. Avoid stimng or disturbing sjTup that is intended for 
clear candies. Grease plates or slab with perfectly fresh, sweet 
butter or the finest olive oil. For boiling sugar use a granite 
saucepan or one made of bright copper. For stirring, a wooden 
spatula is preferable to a silver spoon. Have a large hook placed 
firmly in the wall in a convenient place for pulling candy; also 
keep waxed paper in which to wrap caramels or other candies. 
Two confectioners' pouring plates, or a marble slab, will be a great 



CONFECTIONERY, 79 

convenience, and improve the nicety of the candy. A pair of 
sharp scissors will be very helpful. The first step in the manufac- 
ture of all boiled candies is the same, and consists of cooking the 
sugar to such a consistency as will enable it to be easily handled, 
and used in any form desired. Unless otherwise indicated, granu- 
lated sugar is intended to be used in the accompanying recipes. 
The following is a good foundation recipe for all boiled candies, 
whether cream or clear : 

2 pounds sugar, 1 pint water, 

X teaspoon cream of tartar= 

Put the sugar and water in a saucepan over a steady fire, and 
stir till well dissolved. If any impurities rise after passing 
thi'ough the first boil, skim at once, as great cleanliness is neces- 
sary to nice candy. Stir no more. Boiling a few minutes reduces 
the mixture to a perfect solution, which is called simple syrup and 
can be used for crystallizing fruits. To make rock candy, boil the 
syrup until it hangs in soft threads ; if allowed to cool then, crys- 
tallization will take place on the sides of the pan. If, instead, the 
boiling is continued until the syrup on being tested in cold water, 
stretches out in a long fine thread, or can be worked with the fin- 
gers, cream candies or cream can be made ; it must be quickly re- 
moved from the fire and either poured on a slab or set away in the 
saucepan to cool rapidly. When cool enough to bear the heat 
with the hand, work it with the spatula as fast as possible, until it 
becomes white, stiff, smooth, and shining. If taffy or clear candy 
is desired, add cream of tartar at the Feather point and continue 
boiling to the Crack degree. The greatest skill is required to 
bring the sugar to this point without allowing it to reach the cara- 
mel state. If the sugar, on testing in cold water, becomes brittle 
and snaps when bitten, it is done ; add the desired flavor, and pour 
out the boil on a well-oiled pan or slab, and when nearly cold mark 
in three-quarter inch squares with a knife, or a regular caramel 
cutter. If instead of a clear, a white candy is desired, when the 
mass is cooled suflSciently to handle, throw it over the hook, pull 
out, throw over again and again, taking a fresh hold each time and 
letting the sugar slide into the bulk eac/j time a fresh hold is 
taken- The sugar should be white and pcrous when done, and of 



go CONFECTIONERY. 

a satiny appearance. The fine color and nice appearance depend 
upon tlie rapidity of the operation. If the sugar sticks, dust the 
palms of the hands with a little flour. "Practice makes perfect" 
in this art. If the mass becomes cool and stiff, hold it near the 
fire until softened sufficiently to continue working. The bulk of 
candy is increased by working, though it weighs no more than the 
clear varieties. 

For clear stick candy, pour the mass, after coloring and flavoring, 
into square tins to a sufficient depth for the thickness of the stick. 
When cool enough to retain its shape, cut with a spatula, or a 
chopping knife, marking as desired. When cold a light stroke 
will separate it at the lines. For round sticks, roll the mass into 
a cylindrical form, draw down, pull out, and cut off at the desired 
length. 

To make drops, give the mass an oval shape, draw out, and cut 
off with a quick blow by a sharp knife, as fast as possible ; or 
pour the candy while warm, drop by drop, on greased tins. For 
white sticks, or drops, color the mass before cooking, but work the 
flavor into it when pulling, as it must go through that process be- 
fore cutting into the desired shapes. All pulled or worked can- 
dies are flavored during that operation. Butter is used in making 
ice-cream, milk or cream in caramels, and brown sugar in many 
nut candies. If confectioners' sugar is called for, buj^ the best, 
for though mixed with a little starch, because of its adhesive qual- 
ity, it is not harmful, but the inferior grades are badly adulterated. 
Gum arable is used in making marshmallow and other varieties of 
paste, also in gum drops. 

To candy nuts : first prepare and warm them, that they may be 
ready for the boiling sugar. Boil cream of tartar in the sugar, 
and take off a little under the Crack ; drop in the nuts, a few at a 
time, take out and lay on a cold plate till set. It is necessary to 
work rapidly. If a darker shade is desired, let the sugar pass the 
crack and begin to turn yellow. Work must be very rapid after 
this point. 

To candy fruits : take sugar prepared as for nuts, and use 
oranges, grapes, cherries, or any fruit from which the juice does 
not run too freely. Great care must be used in preparing them. 



CONFECTIONERY. 



81 



and discard any fruit aavina: the least break. Peel and quarter 
oranges, and let dry a few hours, so as to take out the seeds with- 
out starting the juice. Dip into the candy, and lay on an oiled 
plate. Break grapes into bunches of two or three, dip, and when 
well coated with the sugar, hang on a line, or treat as oranges. 
Cherries are prepared in a similar manner to grapes. 

Though the preference is given to the boiled sugar for creams be- 
cause of its finer quality and durability, full directions will be 
found for the uncooked creams. Many prefer this method as it is 
more rapid and easier than the boiling process. The basis of all 
uncooked candies is a cream made of confectioners' sugar. To the 
whites of two or more eggs, add exactly an equal quantity of 
water, and stir in slowly enough sugar to make a firm, soft paste, 
easily moulded by the fingers. Flavor to taste, mould into balls, 
lozenges, squares, or any forms wished, and la}'' upon waxed paper 
to dry. Part of the cream can be put aside for use with figs, 
dates, or nuts ; another part can be flavored with fruit juices ; 
some can be used with jellies, and melted chocolate will make the 
balls into nice chocolate creams. These are but few of the uses 
to which it can be put, and an ingenious worker can manufacture 
all the varieties desired. Flavoring extracts must be used in very 
small quantities. Cocoanut, if from the nut, should be prepared 
the day before using. Small quantities are more easily handled, 
and a second or third cream can be quickly made. 

COLORINa. 

For candies and other articles of food only harmless vegetable 
colors should be used. These can be obtained in paste form from 
many bakers and confectioners. 

CARAMEL. 

Put four ounces of sugar into an old iron or tin pan, which 
must be perfectly clean. Have the fire of good heat and stir the 
sugar with a smooth stick until it changes from a light to a very 
dark brown, and boils up vigorously. Draw to one side of the 
stove, stirring constantly lest it boil over. Add little by little 1 
cup of hot water, boil slowly 4 minutes and strain. This will be a 
syrup and if diluted should give a clear brown color. When cold, 



82 CONFECTIONERY. 

bottle for use. It will keep any length of time. Used to color 
candies, broths, sauces, etc. 

GREEN. 

Spinach green is perfectly harmless. Take a few leaves, wash 
thoroughly, drain off the water, pound in a mortar, and add a little 
salt to a cup of the juice ; put in a saucepan over the fire and stir 
till it curdles. Drain on a hair sieve. Press what remains on the 
sieve through it and mix with half the quantity of powdered sugar. 
Put away in a cold place. 

RED. 
20 grains cochineal, 15 grains cream of tartar, 

20 grains alum, 1 gill soft water. 

Mix the ingredients and boil in an earthen dish slowly 30 min- 
utes. Strain through muslin, or filter, and cork tightly. 

YELLOW. 

Put a little saffron into an earthen dish with a little boiling 
water ; let it stand on the back of the stove several hours ; when 
ready, strain, add sugar to make a syrup, and bottle when cold. 

Cream color is obtained by using a ver}" slight quantity of saf- 
fron. Brown sugars give a yellowish tint to candies in which they 
are used. 

Fruit juices make a nice coloring for icings and confectionery. 

TO CLARIFY SYRUP. 

Put the white of an egg into any muddy liquid or syrup, and on 
boiling, the impurities either rise to the surface or sink to the botr 
tom. 

RECIPES FOR CONFECTIONERY. 

BURNT ALMONDS. 

2}4 pounds sugar, 1% pounds almonds, 

1 pint water. 
Remove the shells but not the skins from the almonds and warm 
slightly before using. Boil the sugar to the ball degree, and stir 
in the almonds with a wooden spoon. Stir so as to keep the al- 
monds from sticking and detach the sugar fi'om the bottom and 
sides of the pan. Coat thoroughly with sugar, turning them over 
and over. When a crackling sound is heard, remove the pan from 
^b"^. fire, and stir till the sugar appears like coarse sand. Turn out 



CONFECTIONERY. 33 

the contents of the pan on a wire sieve, and cover with paper for 
5 minutes. Then pick out the almonds, and return the sugar to 
the saucepan with only sufficient water to dissolve it. Repeat the 
first process and give almonds a second coating, being careful to 
keep them separated. If this should be repeated 3 or 4 times 
the almonds will have a thicker coating. In order to make them 
crinkly, boil 2^ pounds of sugar to the crack ; put the almonds 
into a pan and pour over them this syrup in two coats, stirring 
each time. Burnt almonds are often colored red. 

CREAM ALMONDS. 

Roast almonds till the meat is brown ; take cream made as for 
chocolate creams ; roll out in a sheet and cut into pieces 1 inch 
square by one-fourth inch thick ; wrap the almond smoothly in this 
cream. Put in a warm place to harden, and finish by crystallizing 
in syi'up, or, wliile moist roll in granulated sugar. 

GRILLED ALMONDS. 

1 cup blanched almonds, 1 cup sugar, 

1 cup water. 

Dry the almonds thoroughly. Cook the sugar and water till it 

flies in long threads from the spoon ; throw in the almonds, cook 

them in the syrup, stirring occasionally. As soon as they begin 

to turn a pale yellow brown take immediately from the fire, or they 

will lose their flavor ; stir until the syrup has turned to sugar, and 

crystallizes around the nuts. This is a very nice French recipe. 

SALTED ALMONDS. 

1 cup blanched almonds, 1 heaping teaspoon salt, 

1 teaspoon sweet butter or oil. 

Dry the almonds thoroughly, put them in a bowl, and stir in the 
butter, melted, coating each one; mix thoroughly with the salt, 
lay on a tin plate, and place in a moderately hot oven. Shake and 
turn the pan occasionally. Take out when golden brown, pick 
out the almonds and throw away the4oose salt. Almonds pre- 
pared this way are delicious. 

POP-CORN BALLS. 

Boil N. 0. molasses, any quantity desired, to the soft ball; 
have ready freshly parched corn and put the perfect kernels into a 
larse tin pan ; pour over a little of the boiled molasses. Mix thor- 



84 CONFECTIONERY. 

oughly mth forks or spoons, adding more candy as it is needed. 
The balls can be made of equal size by filling tightly a pint meas- 
ure; then empty and squeeze the corn into a firm ball with the 
hands. Set aside to harden when finished. 

CREAM BONBONS. 

i pound sugar, 1 cup water, 

Flavoring. 
Boil without stirring, after the sugar is dissolved, to a point be- 
tween the feather and the soft ball. Remove from the fire, let 
cool slightly, add flavoring, and rub to a cream against the sides 
of the pan with a wooden spoon. Roll small pieces of this cream 
into round or oval balls, and drop into powdered sugar before set- 
ting away to harden. 

CANDY OF ANY FLAVOR. 
3K pounds refined sugar, IK pints water, 

1 teaspoon cream of tartar. 
Mix in a vessel large enough to hold the candy when expanded 
by the heat ; boil over a brisk fire, taking care that it does not 
burn. The heat should be applied at bottom and not at the sides. 
After boiling 15 minutes, remove a small portion of the melted 
sugar with a spoon, and cool by dropping in cold water. Take a 
portion between thumb and finger, and if it forms a thread as it 
separates, the process is nearly done, and great care must be used 
to control the heat so that the boiling may be kept up without 
burning. Test frequently by dropping a bit into cold water ; if it 
becomes hard and brittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done and 
must be removed at once, and the flavoring stirred in. Then pour 
into shallow earthen dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, and 
cool until it can be handled ; pull, roll into sticks or make into any 
desired shape. Or, omit the cream of tartar, and when the sugar 
can be worked like putty on being tried in the water, take from the 
fire, cool slightly, flavor, and stir to a soft but firm white cream. 
This can be made into bonbons, and chocolate or fruit creams. 

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM CANDY. 

2X pounds sugar, 1 pint water, 

X pound butter, X teaspoon cream of tartar, 

X pound chocolate. 
Boil all the ingredients except the butter 10 minutes; add but- 



CONFECTIONERY. 85 

ter ; the mass will begin to froth and will occupy double the pre- 
vious space ; boil to a soft crack, and pour on a well-greased plate 
or slab ; knead into it the powdered chocolate. When cool 
enough throw over the hook and pull, flavoring with vanilla while 
working. 

EVERTON ICE-CREAM CANDY. 

1 lemon, IK pounds sugar, 

2 ounces butter, 1}4 teacups water. 

Squeeze the juice of lemon into a cup ; boil the sugar, butter 
and water together with one-half the rind of the lemon, and when 
done, which may be known by its becoming quite crisp when 
dropped in cold water, set aside till the boiling has ceased ; stir in 
the juice of the lemon ; butter a dish and pour on about 1 inch 
thick. When cool, take out peel and pull till white. Draw out in 
sticks and check every 4 inches with a knife. The fire must be 
quick and the candy stirred all the time. 

ICE-CREAM CANDY. 

2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 

1 cup water, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar. 
Flavoring, Butter, size of a nutmeg. 

This must not be stirred while cooking. Boil about 25 minutes 

or until it hardens when dropped in cold water. Work as soon as 

possible after taking from the fire. Flavor while pulling. 

HOARHOUND CANDY. 

2 ounces dried hoarhound, 3 pints water. 
Granulated sugar, Lemon juice. 

The proper method is first to make a decoction of the hoar hound. 

Boil 20 minutes, then strain and press off the liquid through a 

hair sieve. To each pint of this take 2 pounds sugar ; place upon 

the fire and stir till the sugar is dissolved ; when it boils add the 

juice of half a good-sized lemon. Boil to the hard crack, being 

careful to keep the sides of the pan perfectly free from the minute 

crystals deposited there by the steam from the boiling sugar ; this 

can easily be done by washing them occasionally with a wet 

sponge or cloth. As the sugar comes to the hard crack, pour it 

upon a cold, greased marble slab, and when cool enough turn in the 

edges and cut the batch into suitable bars or squares. 




A TEACHER in a well-known cooking school gives as her 
opinion that ever}' housekeeper should be able to make a 
ciitferent dessert for each dav in the year. "While a kuowledoe of 
thi'ee hundred and sixty-five rccipes for making desserts may not 
be quite as import^mt as she seems to think, there is no doubt that 
the majority of our cooks do not give tliat branch of their work 
the attention it deserves, and so great cai*e has been taken to maka 
this department very complete. 

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS. 

Ver}' few people know how great a variety of desserts maj 
h9 made from a simple combination of custard. The great se. 
cret in a baked, boiled or steamed cust:u"d is slow cooking. To 
/ittain this it is essential that the custard should be cooked in a 
ckish. set in boiling water, which completely ob^iates all danger of 
burning. The rule for custard is exceedingly simple imd need not 
be varied for baked or boiled custard. 

1 quart fresh milk, 6 tablespoons sugar. 

Yolks of G oggs, 1 saltspooii salt, 

Flavoring. 

All the ingi-edients must be of the best and fi'cshest quality. 
The whites of the eggs can be added to the custai'd, but as they 
do not enrich it and are of no especial value in it, it is more eco- 
nomical to use them as a meringue or in white or delicate cakes. 
The process of making a custard is very simple, yet it is com- 
mon to see this dish put on the table wheyed or spoiled, because 
of a failure to attend to the especial minutiii^ in making it. The 
milk should be new and brought to the boiling point. The j'olks 
of the eggs should be beaten with the sugar and salt, and the 
boiling milk poured gi-adually over them and beaten into them, 
and it should then be strained. A flavor of nutmeg may be added, 

86 



DESSERTS. 87 

or a stick of cinnamon, a portion of vanilla bean, or a little of the 
chipped yellow outer peel of a lemon may be boiled with the milk. 
For baking, pour the custard into earthen cups, set in a pan of hot 
wat(ir, and }>ake in a mod(;rat(}Iy hot oven; for steaming, cook fif- 
teen minutes over boiling water; or make into a boiled custard by 
stirring the custard in a double boiler till it thickens. This will take 
five or six minutes. The custard should be continually beaten all 
the time that it is cooking and until it has cooled. These custards 
may be made more ornamental by adding a meringue and brown- 
ing it lightly in the oven afterward. This is no addition, except 
to a lemon custard, which is nice served with a meringue flavored 
with lemon juice. Almost any fruit jelly or fine marmalade, or 
any fresh fruit, is nice served with custard. 

The number of delicious desserts that may be made with a 
foundation of cream is almost innumerable. There is something 
jrarticularly nice in whipped cream served with any kind of sweet 
fruit. Preserves of all kinds are excellent with whipped cream, 
yet it is comparatively rare to see them served in this way. Char- 
lotte Russe becomes the simplest of deserts when once the art of 
beating cream is acquired. This can be done with an ordinary 
egg whip, or a Dover egg-beater, but most persons can succeed 
better with a cream chum, which should be a cylinder at least three 
and one-half inches across, and about ten inches long. Cream can 
be rapidly beaten in such a chum. As the froth rises skim off on 
a sieve, and place over a pan to drip. There is always some cream 
in a quart that will not froth, and this will drain into the pan and 
should be used for coffee or some other purpose. It is not neces- 
sary U) beat cream to a froth in making ice cream, or in making 
desserts in which cream is used. An iced or cold rice pudding 
made with a mixture of whipped cream and boiled rice properly 
flavored is one of the best desserts made. 

Creams and custards should always be beaten in stone or 
earthen ware to ensure their essential lightness. When gelatine is 
used in creams, soak it for an hour in a little cold water or milk, 
set in a warm place ; it is convenient to place the bowl in the top 
of the boiling teakettle, and when dissolved, pour into the hot cus- 
tard just after removing from the stove. 



88 



DESSERTS. 



The ''zest" used in flavoring is the name given to sugar satur- 
ated with the oil of lemon or orange peel, obtained by rubbing the 
rind with lumps of sugar. 

ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE. 

1 quart milk, 2% tablespoons arrowroot, 

1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon rose-water, 

Salt to taste. 
Dissolve the arrowroot in 1 gill of milk, and heat the remainder ; 
when it boils add the arrowroot, stir in well and cook a few mo- 
ments before adding the sugar, rose-water and salt. Pour into 
moulds and set in a cool place. 

CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE. 

3 eggs, 5 tablespoons grated clioco.ate, 
% cup sugar, 1 quart milk, 

% ounce gelatine, 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Soak the gelatine in 1 cup of the milk, and bring the remainder 
to a boil. Beat j^olks of the eggs and sugar thoroughl}^ and add 
first the gelatine, then the chocolate dissolved in a little of the 
boiling milk and stir all together rapidly. Pour the hot milk over 
the mixture, beat well and strain. Cook as for boiled custard, 
stiiTing constantly. When partly cool, add vanilla and the beaten 
whites. Pour into wet moulds and set on ice. To be eaten with 
plain or whipped cream. 

CORNSTARCH BLANCMANGE. 

1 quart milk. Salt to taste, 

4 tablespoons cornstarch, Cinnamon to taste, 
4 tablespoons sugar. Jelly. 

Scald the milk and add the sugar, salt, cinnamon, and the corn- 
starch moistened with cold milk; boil 4 minutes, stirring all the 
while. Rinse in cold water as many cups as desired, and nearly 
fill with blancmange. Let them stand until cold, turn upside 
down on saucers or little pudding dishes, and on top of each place 
one -half teaspoon of bright red jell}', pour around them sweetened 
cream, flavored with lemon extract. 

IRISH MOSS BLANCMANGE. 
3 quarts milk. Sugar, 

1 small handful Irish moss. Cream, 

Wash the moss, soak 15 minutes in lukewarm water, shake dry, 



DESSERTS. 89 

nad put into a custard kettle with the milk ; stir occasionally and 
cook slowly till it will jell slightlj^ when dropped on a cold plate. 
Strain through a sieve, sweeten to taste. Pour into a mould 
which has been rinsed with cold water, and set in a cool place for 
several hours. Eat with sugar and cream, and a little tart jelly. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE — 1. 

X box gelatine, 3 eggs, 

^ pint milk, 2 dozen lady fingers, 

3 pints cream, Lemon or vanilla to taste, 
^y4 pound powdered sugar, Jelly if desired. 

Split the lady fingers, or substitute slices of sponge cake, and 

line a mould. Dissolve the gelatine in the milk. Whip the cream 

to a froth, and set on ice ; beat the yolks of eggs, mix with the 

sugar and add the well-beaten whites ; strain the gelatine upon 

these, stirring quickl}'' ; add the cream, flavor and fill the mould. 

Let stand upon ice 2 hours and serve with whipped cream. The 

bottom of the mould may be lined with jelly. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE 2. 

4 eggs, whites, lj4 cups powdered sugar, 

1 ounce gelatine, 1 pint thick sweet cream, 

2 gills boiling milk. Rose-water or vanilla. 

Sponge cake. 

Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling milk, beat the whites stiff, 
whip cream to a froth and line a large mould with thick slices of 
sponge cake ; mix gelatine, sugar, cream and flavoring together, 
add lightly the frothed whites, pour into the mould and set away 
on ice till required for use. This is an easy and excellent mode of 
making this most delicate dessert. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE 3. 

X pound powdered sugar, 2 eggs, whites, 

1 pint rich cream, X teaspoon almond. 

Sponge cake, or lady fingers. 

Sweeten and flavor the cream before whipping, add the stiff 
whites and beat all thoroughly together ; pour into a mould lined 
with thin slices of sponge cake, or lady fingers, and set in a cool 
place till firm. 



90 DESSERTS. 

APPLE CREAM. 

1 pound cooking apples, 1 ounce gelatine, 

K pound sugar, 1 lemon, 

}4 pint cream, Little boiling water, 

Cochineal. 
Peel, quarter and core the apples, put into a stewpan with sugar 
and the rind and juice of 1 lemon ; set on the stove and let simmer 
gently. When the apples are quite soft, pass through a sieve into 
a bowl, put on ice till cold. Whisk the cream to a firm froth ; add 
gelatine melted in the water, and the apple pulp. If desired, color 
a little of the mixture with the cochineal, pour it in a mould and 
set on ice. When firm, add the white portion. Serve when cold. 

CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM. 

}4 box gelatine, l}i cups sugar, 

% cup cold water, 1 pint cream, 

^i cup boiling water, 4 tablespoons grated chocolate, 

Vanilla. 
Whip the cream to a froth and keep cool ; dissolve the chocolate 
in a little boiling water; soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 
hour, add the boiling water, sugar, and vanilla ; set on the stove 
to thicken, stir in the chocolate, remove from the stove, let cool, 
and beat in the whipped cream. Pour into a mould to stiffen, 

BOHEMIAN CREAMS. 

1 quart cream, 4 eggs, yolks, 

1 ounce gelatine, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

1 vanilla bean, or extract of vanilla. 

Dissolve the gelatine in water, whip one-half the cream to a stiff 
froth ; boil the other half with the sugar and a vanilla bean, or va- 
nilla extract may be added after it is removed from the fire. Add 
the gelatine, and when cooled a little stir in the well-beaten yolks. 
As soon as it begins to thicken, stir steadily until smooth, when 
add the whipped cream, beating lightly. Mould and set on ice 
until ready to serve. 

To flavor with strawberries, strain 2 pounds berries through a 
colander, sweeten to taste, add the dissolved gelatine, set on ice; 
when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream as 
above, and mould. 

To flavor with peach, boil 18 choice peaches, sweeten and strain 



DESSERTS. 91 

through a colander, add the dissolved gelatine, a teacup of cream, 
and set on ice ; when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped 
cream, and mould. 

To flavor with pineapple, grate fine, boil with half a pound of 
pulverized sugar, strain through a colander, adding the dissolved 
gelatine, set on ice, and when it thickens stir until smooth ; add 
the whipped cream, and mould. Canned pineapples may be used 
instead of fresh. In all these never add whipped cream until the 
mass is cool and begins to thicken. 

BUTTERCUP CREAM. 

2 cups cold milk, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

2 eggs, 1 tablespoon lemon, 

}i cup crystal gelatine. 

Dissolve the gelatine in the milk ; heat, and when boiling pour 

slowly over the beaten j^olks and sugar. Beat the whites stiff, 

flavor and whip into the custard, and pour into a mould. Serve 

with jelly. 

COFFEE CREAM. 

IX cups cream, }4 cup water, 

1 cup strong, hot coffee, 3^ cup sugar, 

% ounce gelatine. 

doak the gelatine in the water till dissolved, pour it into the 

coffee, add the sugar, cool, strain and stir in the cream, which may 

be whipped or plain. Fill the moulds, and set in an ice box or 

cold place over night. 

HAMBURG CREAM. 

1 cup sugar, 8 eggs, 

2 lemons, juice and grated rind. 

Stir together the rind and juice of the lemons and sugar, add 
the well-beaten yolks of the eggs ; put all in a tin pail, set in a pot 
of boiling water, stir for 3 minutes, take from the fire, add the 
well-beaten whites of the eggs, and serve, when cold, in custard- 
glasses. 

ITALIAN CREAM. 

}i box gelatine, 8 eggs, 

\yi cups sugar, 2% pints milk 

Flavor to taste. 

Hoak the gelatine one-half hour in one-fourth pint cold milk, put 

the- remainder on to boil, and when boiling stir in yolks of the 



92 DESSERTS. 

eggs well beaten, the sugar and gelatine ; when custard begins to 
thicken, take off and pour into a deep dish in which the whites 
have been beaten to a stiff froth ; mix well together and flavor to 
taste ; put in moulds, and allow 4 hours to cool. This cream is 
much more easily made in winter than in summer. 

ORANGE CREAM. 

]4 pint cream, 1 lemon, 

3 tablespoons sugar, 3 tablespoons gelatine, 

3 oranges, K pint water. 

Squeeze the juice from the lemon and oranges, letting the rind 
of 1 orange soak in the juice of the oranges 1 hour ; boil the gela- 
tine in water and cool ; whip the cream to a froth, stir all together, 
pour into a mould and set on ice to cool. 

RICE CREAM. 

1 quart sugar, K cup raw rice, 

2 quarts whipped cream, Yz box gelatine, 

Yz teaspoon salt. 

Boil the rice in an abundance of water; when it has boiled 10 
minutes pour off the water, add 1 pint of milk, put it in a double 
boiler, and cook for three-quarters of an hour with a little of the 
yellow rind of a lemon to give flavor; when done, remove the 
lemon peel, add the gelatine, which should have soaked 1 hour in 
half a cup of cold water ; add also the sugar and salt. Put in a 
pan of cold water and salt, and stir it till it is thoroughly chilled. 
Then beat in the whipped cream. The rice must be added lightly 
to the cream so as not to break down the froth. Pour into little 
cups or one large mould and set it away on the ice until it has 
hardened. It should be firmer than jelly. It is delicious served 
with strawberries and whipped cream, or a golden orange jelly and 
whipped cream. This is an especially ornamental dessert served 
in a large mould on a low glass platter, with strawberries or jelly 
and whipped cream wreathed around it, or if preferred, make a 
sauce with a cup of mashed strawberries, strained into a quart of 
whipped cream and properly sweetened. Let the white mould 
rise from the center of this sauce. 



DESSERTS. 93 

ROCK CREAM» 

1 cup rice, Jelly, 

2 tablespoons sugar, 5 eggs, whites, 

1 saltspoon salt, 3 tablespoons powdered sugar, 

Milk, 1 tablespoon rich cream, 

Flavor to taste. 

Boil the rice in a custard kettle, iu sweet milk, until soft, add 
sugar and salt ; pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly ; 
beat the whites of the eggs and powdered sugar to a stiff froth, 
flavor, adding cream, and drop the mixture on the rice. 

SPANISH CREAM. 
1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 

}i box gelatine, 1 cup sugar. 

Vanilla to flavor. 
Soak gelatine in the milk for 30 minutes, heat, beat yolks and 
sugar together and add to the boiling milk, stir and cook until it 
thickens ; take from the fire, add the whites beaten very light, 
stirring them in thoroughly, flavor and put in a mould to cool. 
Or, a meringue may be made of the beaten whites, the juice of 1 
lemon, and one-half cup of sugar; pour over cream and brown 
slightly in the oven. 

VELVET CREAM. 
yi box gelatine, }^ cup powdered sugar, 

}4 cup cold water, 2 cups cream, 

yi cup boiling water. Flavor ^yith vanilla or bitter almonds. 

Soak the gelatine in cold water, add the boiling water, stir till 
clear, and let cool. Have the cream very cold, add sugar and 
beat to a stifle froth ; whip it into the gelatine, flavor, put in wet 
moulds and set on ice. 

WHIPPED CREAM. 

To whip cream successfully, use good rich cream. Set it on 
ice several hours before using. Sweeten and flavor to taste, put in a 
large bowl and beat with an egg-beater ; as the froth rises remove 
to a second bowl, or if desired to be very stiff, place on a sieve 
and return all that passes through to the bowl to be beaten again. 
When the cream is not very thick, or it is difficult to whip, add to 
it and beat with it the white of 1 Qgg, or soak one-fourth ounce of 
gelatine for 1 hour in one-half cup cold milk, then set the cup of 



94 DESSERTS. 

gelatine and milk into boiling water over a fire, and stir till dis- 
solved ; cool, and whip into the cream. Set it on ice or in a very- 
cold placCo It may be served in various ways. Baked apples, 
and fresh or preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly-glasses, 
one-third full of jelly and filled up with cream, make a very whole- 
some and delicious dessert. 

APPLE CUSTARD — 1. 
1 pint apples, 4 eggs, 

1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon butter, 

K cup sugar, Flavor if desired. 

Stew tart apples and put through a sieve, mix in the proportions 
given and bake 20 minutes. 

APPLE CUSTARD 2. 

8 or 10 large apples, 5 eggs, 

1 quart milk, Sugar, 

Flavor to taste. 
Pare and core the apples and put in a deep dish ; fill the centers 
with sugar, add a very little water, and bake till done. Make 
custard with the eggs, milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, and a little cin- 
namon or nutmeg ; pour over the apples while hot and bake till 
the custard is done. Serve cold. 

ALMOND CUSTARD. 

1 quart milk, 6 eggs, well beaten, 

2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon lemon extract, 

}i pound almonds, blanched and pounded. 
Mix these ingredients together and bring to a boil, take from 
the fire and stir till lukewarm ; put into cups or a mould to cool. 
If desired, cover with the whites of 4 or 5 eggs, well beaten, just 
before serving. 

BAKED CUSTARD 1. 

1 quart milk, 5 tablespoons sugar, 

4 eggs, Flavor to taste. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together, scald the milk and pour over 
the other ingredients, stir together well and pour into china cups. 
Set the cups in a pan of hot water, grate a little nutmeg upon each, 
or flavor with lemon or vanilla, and bake till firm. Eat cold from 
the cups. Or, add a little more sugar, pour the custard into a 
basin or pudding dish, set the dish into a dripping-pan of hot 
water and bake in a moderate oven. Try with a straw ; if milky 



DESSERTS. 95 

it is not done. It should quiver like jelly when sufficiently 
cooked. 

BAKED CUSTARD 2. 

1 quart milk, 3 eggs, 

1 cup sugar, Nutmeg. 

Heat the milk, beat the eggs very light, add the sugar and nut- 
meg, stir all into the milk when boiling hot, strain and bake. 

BANANA CUSTARD. 

1 Quart milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, 

2 eggs, 1 tablespoon cornstarch, heaping, 

3 bananas. 
When the custard is cool pour it over the fruit sliced thin. 

CHEAP CUSTARD. 

1 pint milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, 

2 eggs, 2 tablespoons flour, 

Flavor with lemon or vanilla. 
Put the milk into a double kettle, let it come to a boil, beat the 
eggs and sugar, stir intx) the milk, wet the flour in cold milk, see 
that there are no lumps in it, then stir into the milk and cook 3 or 
4 minutes. Flavor when cool. 

COFFEE CUSTARD. 

4 eggs, 1 cup cold coffee, 

X pint milk, Sugar to taste. 

^ook as for boiled custard. 

CORNSTARCH CUSTARD. 

1 quart milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, 

2 eggs. Butter size of a hickory nut, 

2 tablespoons cornstarch, ^ teaspoon salt. 

Flavor. 
Wet the starch in a little of the milk, heat the remainder to near 
boiling, in a pail set in boiling water. The proper heat will be in- 
dicated b}" a froth or film rising to the top ; add the starch till it 
thickens, stirring constantly, then the eggs, well beaten with the 
sugar ; butter and salt ; cook, stir briskly, take off and beat well 
and flavor. Served with grated cocoanut it is very nice. 

HOMINY CUSTARD. 

3 tablespoons hominy, Sugar, 
Salt, Flavoring, 

Milk, Jam or stewed fruit. 

To 1 pint of milk add hominy and salt; boil gently until it 



DESSERTS. 

thickens, then add more milk, cook until sufficiently thick ; add 
sugar, and flavor to taste. Pour into a mould and serve cold 
with jam or stewed fruit. 

ORANGE CUSTARD. 

4 oranges, X cup sugar, 

4 eggs, Powdered sugar, 

1 quart milk. 
Peel and slice the oranges into an earthen dish. Sift fine sugar 
over each layer. Make a custard, using 2 whole eggs and the 
yolks of 2 more, well beaten, milk and the sugar. Flavor with 
vanilla ; steam until done and pour over the oranges. Beat the 
whites of 2 eggs and sweeten with fine sugar, pour over the cus- 
tard when cool and set in the oven 5 minutes. A little orange 
juice in the frosting improves it. If desired, leave out 1 egg and 
add 1 tablespoon cornstarch. 

RICE CUSTARD. 

}4 cup rice, 4 tablespoons sugar, 

1 quart milk, 4 tablespoons powdered sugar, 

4 eggs, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 

Pinch of salt. 
Put the rice in the milk and add salt ; steam until soft ; just 
before takmg from the fire add the yolks of eggs beaten with the 
sugar, and mix thoroughly ; flavor ; do not cook it any more. 
Pour into pudding dish and cover with the whites, beaten stiff 
with the powdered sugar ; brown slightly in the oven, and serve 
cold with tart jelly. 

SNOW CUSTARD. 
3 cups sugar, 1}{ pints milk, 

}4 box gelatine, 1 lemon, juice, 

1 cup cold water, 3 eggs, 

1 pint boiling water. Vanilla. 

Soak the gelatine 1 hour in the cold water, add the boiling water, 
stir until thoroughly dissolved, add two-thirds of the sugar, and 
the lemon juice; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and 
when the gelatine is quite cold, whip it into the whites, a spoonful 
at a time. Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff, pour 
in a mould, or in 1 dozen egg glasses previously wet with cold 
water; set in a cold place. In 4 or 5 hours turn into a glass 
dish. Make a custard of the milk, yolks of eggs, the remaindej 



DESSERTS. 97 

of the sugar, flavor with vanilla, and when the meringue or snow- 
balls are turned out of the mould, pour this around the base. If 
desired, omit the beaten whites, and pour the jelly into the mould. 
Serve with the custard, or a whipped cream, or the whites, well 
beaten, and sweetened with 3 tablespoons powdered sugar. 

STEAMED CUSTARD. 

5 eggs, 1 quart milk, 

% cup sugar, Vanilla or lemon. 

Put the milk over the fire in a double kettle ; when boiling, add 
the sugar and the eggs, well beaten. When it begins to thicken, 
remove from the fire, cool and flavor. Pour into custard cups and 
place in a steamer over boiling water. Steam until thick and 
firm ; cool and grate nutmeg over the top of each, if desired. 

STEAMED CUSTARD. 

Custard. 

6 eggs, yofks, 1 cup sugar, 

3 cups milk, % cup grated cocoanut, 

Pinch of salt. 
Steam and frost. 

Frosting for Custard. 
6 eggs, whites, Sugar, 

Cocoanut. 

To the beaten whites add sufficient sugar and cocoanut to 
stiffen. 

GOOSEBERRY FOOL. 
Gooseberries, Cream, 

Sugar, Gelatine, 

Milk to dissolve gelatine. 

Remove stems and blossoms from gooseberries, stew to a thick 
pulp, sweeten to taste, and put through a sieve, if desired. 
Sweeten to taste and whip the same quantity of cream as goose- 
berry pulp, dissolve gelatine as for Whipped Cream, and add in the 
proportion of 2 tablespoons to 1 quart of whipped cream. Re- 
serve one-fourth of the whipped cream, add gooseberry pulp to the 
remainder gently, taking care not to break it down. Put into cus- 
tard glasses, and heap each glass with the whipped cream. Set on 
ice till served. 



PASTBY. 

As long as Americans have gained a reputation for being a pie- 
eating people, it is desirable that the pies themselves shall be 
well made. People mistake who consider pastry made with little 
shortening as parti cularlj^ healthj^ Crust which is tough and 
heavy is far more hurtful than that of a light, tender, and flaky 
^imposition. 

Use the best materials in making pastry. Butter and lard 
should be sweet, fresh, and solid. Have the water ice-cold, and 
make the pie-crust in a cool place. It is much improved by the 
addition of a small teaspoon of baking powder to one quart of 
flour. Pastry is nicer to stand two or three hours in a cold place 
after making, before using, and it may be kept in a close-covered 
dish in an ice-chest for several days, and be improved. Some 
brands of flour, though better for bread, will never make good 
pastry, and regular pastry flour will be found cheaper as well as 
ncer. Brush the lower crust of the pie with the white of an egg 
to prevent its becoming soggy, and a sprinkling of flour and sugar 
before filling prevents the leaking of juices. Dredge a little flour 
over fresh small fruits, after adding sugar, before laying on the 
upper crust ; it is nicer than cornstarch, and is absorbed better in 
the pie. For custard pie, sift flour, one tablespoon to a pie, into 
the sugar, and mix well together before adding the beaten eggs. 
This gives the consistency desirable in serving, and does not affect 
the taste. The milk for custard, squash, pumpkin or lemon p?es 
should be hot when added to the other materials. Do not fill pies 
until ready to bake, and stewed fruit must be cool before using or 
the pastry will be sodden. 

Many oooks prefer in making pastry to omit some of the buttei 

98 



PASTRY 99 

Jrom the general preparation, and cutting the paste into equal 
parts, roll the rest of the butter into one of them for an upper 
crust. Cut a piece from the other paste, roll from the center out, 
and cover the pie plate ; fit it well, and trim off the edges with a 
sharp knife. Cut off a piece from the richer paste suflScient for an 
upper cover, roll out and gently lay one half over the other. Cut 
through the fold five times near the center, in a slanting line. 
Fill the plate with the pie mixture, wet the top edge of the rim, 
lay on the upper crust, turn back the half that was doubled over, 
and fold the upper edges carefully over the lower ones, or press 
them lightly together. The edge can be ornamented with the in- 
dentations of a three-tined fork. Glaze a pie by brushing it over 
with the white of an egg before baking. 

Use tin, not earthen, plates in baking; dust them with flour, 
but never grease them. Slip the pies off to earthen ones as soon 
as baked to prevent the softening of the crust. 

A meringue is made in the proportion of one tablespoon of sugar 
to the white of an egg ; it should be spread upon the pie as soon 
as baked and returned to the oven to brown slightly. 

The oven is at the right heat for baking when twenty can be 
counted while holding the hand there, and the same temperature 
should be maintained throughout the baking ; this heat will give a 
rich brown color, and a flaky appearance to the pie. It is of great 
importance that the oven should be at the right and steady heat to 
obtain the best results for the money, time, and work expended in 
preparation. 

PUTP PASTE. — 1. 

1 pound butter, 1 cup ice-water 

1 pound flour, 1 egg. 

Wash the butter, and set on ice. Have the ice-water ready, and 
make the paste in as cool a place as possible. Weigh out the 
sifted flour, put into a large bowl, and break the egg into a hole 
made in the flour ; work it in handling as little as possible. Add 
the ice-water, making a soft paste, and roll out. Divide the but- 
ter into 6 parts, break 1 part into bits, and put on the paste. Dust 
with flour, fold paste from the sides to the center, and then in 3 
layers. Turn the sides round and roll out thin j break another 



100 PASTRY. 

part of the butter into bits and repeat the former process. In a 
similar way use the remaining parts of the butter, and after the 
final rolling and folding, set it in the ice box for 1 hour before 
using. E.0II the upper crust of the pie quite thick, and if a fiat 
earthen plate is used lay two narrow strips of paste on the lower 
crust around the edge of the plate. The pie will be as nice if a 
plainer paste is used for the lower crust. This recipe makes nice 
tarts and patties. 

All puff paste requires a strong, steady heat to bake it nicel3^ 

PUFF PASTE — 2. 
% pound butter, X teaspoon cream of tartar, 

1 pound sifted flour, Ice-water. 

Free the butter from salt by working it in water, form it into a 
square lump, and place on ice to harden. Put the fiour into a 
bowl, and rub 2 ounces of butter very thoroughly into it ; use 
enough water to make this of the consistency of the butter. 
Place the paste on the board, dusting it under and over with fiour, 
and roll out in a piece 12 inches long by 6 wide; flour the butter 
well, and roll in a sheet 8 inches long and 5 wide. Place the sheet 
of butter on the paste, leaving one-half inch at the top and sides 
uncovered, and a large space at the bottom ; mix cream of tartar 
with twice the quantity of fiour, and sprinkle it evenly over the 
butter ; fold the large part of the paste not covered with butter 
over on the butter, fold the other part with the butter on it over 
that, to make 3 layers of dough and 2 of butter. Roll out to its 
original size, dust with flour, fold it as before, roll out again, dust 
with flour, and fold again ; repeat twice more, giving it 4 rollings 
and foldings ; when rolled for the last time, cut it through in 2 
even pieces, and place one on the other, and the paste is ready for 
use. In warm weather it is necessary to place it in a cool place 
after every second rolling, in very warm weather after each rolling, 

and sometimes on ice. 

PUFF PASTE — 3. 

3 pints flour, 2 eggs, yolks, 

3 teacups butter, A little salt. 

Sift the flour ; make a hole in the center, add the well-beaten 

yolks and enough cold water to make a soft paste. Dredge the 

board with flour, roll out the paste, being careful to flour the roll- 



PASTRY. 101 

fng pin and the hands. Lift the rolled paste to make sure that it 
does not stick. Knead the butter until it is soft and divide into 6 
parts. Spread one part on the paste, fold the edges till they 
touch one another, roll out, spread on another part of the butter, 
roll again, and repeat until all the butter is used. Roll this up 
and lay it over ice until nearly frozen, or put it in a cold cellar. 

GOOD PASTE — 1. 
1 cup lard, 1 cup butter, 

A little salt, 3 eggs, whites, 

5 cups flour. 
Work lard and butter lightly into the flour, beat whites of eggs 
in the water used for mixing, add a piece of soda size of a small pea 
and mix. Handle as little as possible. For the upper crust, roll 
in a little more butter. 

GOOD PASTE — 2. 

1 pound sifted flour, X pound lard, 

X pound butter, 1 cup water, 

3^ teaspoon salt. 

Rub or cut the shortening into the flour, leaving out a little of 

the butter ; mix with a knife while adding the water ; roll out into 

a thin sheet, having board and pin well floured ; cut the remainder 

of the butter into little pieces and spread one-half on the paste, 

dredge with flour, roll up, and cut in halves ; divide one of these 

into 3 parts, roll these out and cover as many pie plates. Take 

the other half and dot with the bits of butter ; dust with flour, fold 

from the sides toward the center, roll thin, fold in 3 layers, and 

cut into 3 equal parts ; flour the ends, roll out and cover the pies. 

POTATO PASTE. 
3 cups sifted flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 

1 cup mashed potato, yi teaspoon salt, 

Ice-water or milk. 
Put the potato through a colander, and mix with the flour, but- 
ter and salt, adding enough liquid for a stiff paste. Roll out and 
use for meat pies. 

SUET PASTE. 
2)4 cups sifted flour, 1 cup cold water, 

1 cup suet, chopped fine, 1 teaspoon salt, 

K teaspoon baking powder. 
Put the salt and baking powder into the flour, adding the suel 



.102 PASTRY. 

fi'om which every bit of fibre has been removed. Kub all together 
with the hands, and add water sufficient to make a firm, soft dough. 
Roll out. Nice for apple dumplings or meat pies. 

APPLE PIE — 1. 

Select sound, tart apples ; pare and core without breaking them, 
allowing 4 for each pie. Put in a stewpan with a little lemon 
juice, a strip of yellow peel, some sugar and enough water to cook 
until they can be easily pierced. Quarter more apples, put them 
in another stewpan with lemon juice, peel, sugar, and enough water 
to cover ; stew these to a jam. Add a lump of butter and one- 
fourth the bulk of the apple in peach marmalade ; rub all through 
a colander. Line pie plates with good paste ; put on the bottom 
a layer of apple jam, set 4 whole apples in each pie, fill the cavi- 
ties in the apples and the spaces between with the marmalade. 
Put strips of the crust, one-half inch wide, in a lattice-work across 
the top between the apples, and trim the edge neatly with 1 or 
more layers of notched paste. Bake in a quick oven 20 minutes. 
See that it bakes evenly. Serve with cream. 

APPLE PIE — 2. 
Tart apples, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 

^ cup sugar, Small bits of butter, 

1 tablespoon water. 
Line a deep plate with crust, sprinkle with sugar and flour, fill 
with sliced apples ; add sugar, cinnamon, butter, and water. Cover 
with pastry, and bake from 30 to 45 minutes. Or, line pans with 
crust, fill with sliced apples, cover with paste and bake ; take off 
cover, put in sugar, bits of butter and seasoning ; replace crust 
and serve warm. It is delicious eaten with sweetened cream. 
Crab apple pie, if made of "transcendents," will fully equal those 
made from larger varieties of apples, but will require a full cup of 
sugar to each pie. 

APPLE COBBLER. 

6 large apples, 1 cup sugar, 

1 teaspoon cinnamon, % teaspoon cloves. 

Pare and core the apples, and cut each into 8 pieces. Lay in a 

deep plate lined with paste, add sugar, spice and a little water. 

Cover with puff paste, and bake slowly for 1 hour. Serve with 



PASTRY. 103 

cream, or a sauce. Peach cobbler is made in a similar way, but 
the spices are omitted. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. 
I cup sugar, Sour apples, 

3 tablespoons butter, 3 eggs, 

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

Peel, core and stew the apples. Rub through a colander and to 
1^ cups of apple add the other ingredients. Beat well together. 
Bake with only one crust, using the whites of the eggs with 2 
tablespoons of sugar for a meringue. Brown nicely by returning 
it to the oven for a short time. Or, to 1 cup of strained apple 
add 1 cup each of sugar and cream, and 1 well-beaten egg ; mix in 
the given order. Flavor to taste, and bake 30 minutes in a mod- 
erate oven. 

DRIED APPLE PIE 1. 

Stew dried apples with a little lemon peel till soft, sweeten to 
taste, add a slice or two of lemon, put through a coarse sieve, stir 
in a beaten egg, add a piece of butter, and bake with 2 crusts. 

DRIED APPLE PIE 2. 

1 quart dried apple sauce, 1 cup raisins, 

2 cups sugar, 4 tablespoons melted butter. 

Flavor with nutmeg or lemon. 

Press the dried apple sauce through a sieve, add the other in- 
gredients, bake in 2 crusts and serve warm. 

DRIED APPLE PIE 3. 

% teacup mashed apple, 1 egg, 

1 cup sweet cream, Sugar to taste, 

Flavor with lemon. 

Beat the apple and egg together 3 minutes, add the cream and 

sugar and beat 2 minutes. This makes 1 pie ; bake with 2 cruets. 

APPLE MERINGUE PIE. 

Cook tart and juicy apples, put through a colander, add sugar, 
and flavor to taste ; fill the crust and bake. When done cover the 
apple with a meringue made of the well-beaten whites of 3 eggs 
and 3 tablespoons sugar. Put into a quick oven till the meringue 
is "set," and eat cold. In their season substitute peaches for 
apples. 



104 PASTRY. 

PUMPKIN PIE — 

1 pint pumpkin, sifted, 4 teaspoons cinnamon, 

4 eggs, 3 cups sugar, 

3 pints new milk, 1 teaspoon ginger, 

A little butter, Salt. 

Warm the pumpkin, and stir in the salt, spices, sugar, and welL 

beaten eggs. Mix and add the milk heated sufficiently to melt 

the butter. This quantity makes two large pies. 

PUMPKIN PIE — 3. 
Yz pint milk, good measure, 1 ^^^^ 

1 large tablespoon sifted pumpkin, X tablespoon flour, 

Yz cup sugar, ^ teaspoon ginger, 

Salt, 3 teaspoons cinnamon. 

Beat together the pumpkin, flour and spices ; add the sugar and 
well-beaten ^gg. Add milk and stir all together. This makes 
one pie. 

RAISIN PIE. 
1 pound raisins, boiled an hour, Juice of 1 lemon, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon melted butter. 

Bake with 2 crusts. This is sufficient for two pies. The pies 
should be as juicy as apple pies when baked, and, if preferred, 2 
tablespoons of flour may be added to the ingredients. 

RASPBERRY PIE 1. 

1 pint raspberries, 2.^ cup sugar, 

A little flour, 1 tablespoon butter. 

Line the pan with good crust and fill with the berries ; spread 
over them the sugar, flour and small bits of butter. Wet the edge 
of the crust, put on the upper crust and pinch the edges closely to- 
gether. Cut holes in the upper crust to allow the air to escape. 
Bake one-half hour. 

RASPBERRY PIE 2. 

Line pie tins with plain crust, sprinkling flour thickly over the 
bottom, and if dried raspberries are used, they must previously be 
soaked in water until of the original size ; fill with the berries, 
dredge on flour, spread thickly with sugar, add a few bits of but 
ter, and cover with an upper crust. If a richer pie is desired, 
omit the top crust, and pour over 1 cup of whipped sweet cream. 
Bake quickly. 



PUDDINGS. 105 

ROLLED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Peel and chop fine tart apples, make a crust of 1 cup rich but- 
termilk, 1 teaspoon soda, and flour enough to roll ; roll half an 
inch thick, spread with the apple, sprinkle well with sugar and cin- 
namon, cut in strips 2 inches wide, roll up like jelly cake, set the 
rolls in a dripping pan, lay a teaspoon of butter on each, put in a 
moderate oven, and baste them often with the juice. 

APPLE ROLLY-POLY. 

Peel, quarter and core sour apples, make a rich soda biscuit 
dough, or raised biscuit dough may be used if rolled thin, roll half 
an inch thick, slice the quarters, and lay on the prepared paste or 
crust, roll up, tuck ends in, prick deeply with a fork, lay in a 
a steamer and place over a kettle of boiling water, cook If hours. 
Or, wrap in a cloth, tie the ends and baste the sides together, put 
in a kettle of boiling water, and boil steadily 1^ hours. Cut 
across in slices and serve with sweetened cream, or butter and 
sugar. Cherries, dried fruit, any kind of berries, jelly, or apple 
butter may be used. With the last two add raisins. 

BANANA PUDDING. 
1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 

1 cup water, 1 heaping tablespoon butter, 

2 teaspoons baking powder, Flour to make a thin, smooth batter. 
Bake in two deep tins. Slice 3 bananas, and place between 

with a sprinkling of sugar. Serve warm with thin cream. One- 
half of this recipe makes enough for a family of four. A slightly 
sour sauce flavored with vanilla is a substitute for cream. 

BATTER PUDDING. 
2 cups milk, 4 eggs, 

2 cups flour, Salt. 

1 largo teaspoon baking powder, 
Sift the baking powder into the flour, add salt, and if liked a lit- 
tle melted butter, then the milk graduall}', stirring carefully, and 
the well-beaten eggs, yolks and whites separately. This will bake 
in 50 minutes. If the pudding is to be boiled, make stifl'er than 
for baking, and if fruit is used it must be very stiflf. It should 
not stick to the knife when served. Serve with a rich sauce. The 
batter is nicer if 6 instead of 4 eggs are used. 



106 



PUDDING SAUCE. 



PUDDING SAUCES. 

BUTTERLESS SAUCE. 
% pint powdered sugar, 2 eggs, 

%, gill milk, Flavoring. 

Put the milk into a double kettle ; when hot add the 3'olks of 
eggs beaten well with the sugar. Cook as custard, take off and 
add flavoring when cool. Just before serving mix the well-beaten 
whites lightly with the sauce. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 
1 cup sugar, Large stick cinnamon, 

3 cloves, 1 cup boiling water, 

Lemon peel. 
Boil these together 10 minutes. Malie a caramel from 4 table- 
spoons granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons water. Cook it over a 
hot fire in an old tin pan ; stir with a smooth stick until the water 
evaporates, and it is a nice brown color. Strain the sauce over 
the caramel, let it come to a boil and remove from the fire. 

CHOCOLATE SAUCE. 

1 cup milk, 4 tablespoons grated chocolate, 

li cup cream, 2 eggs, yolks, 

li cup sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Boil the chocolate in the milk; beat the eggs and sugar to- 
gether, and pour over them the hot milk ; whip in the cream, cook 
like boiled custard, and add vanilla after it is taken from the fire. 

CREAM SAUCE 1. 

1 cup powdered sugar, % cup sweet cream, 

% cup butter, j^ cup boiling water, 

Flavoring. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the cream, the boiling 

water, and cook a few minutes in a double boiler or a pail set in 

boiling water, stirring constantly. Flavor when cool. 

CREAM SAUCE 2. 

1 pint cream, }4 cup sugar, 

3 eggs, whites, Nutmeg. 

Let the cream come almost to boiling in a custard kettle ; set 
off, add the sugar and grated nutmeg, with a little rose-water, if 
liked. Stir thoroughly, and when cool add the well-beaten whites 
of eggs. Set in hot water to keep warm till needed, stirring 
occasionally. 



PUDDING SAUCE. 107 

GOLDEN SAUCE. 

2 eggs, yolks, 3 tablespoons boiling water, 

1 cup sugar. Lemon juice, 

Nutmeg. 

Beat the eggs and sugar until creamy. Set the bowl into a ket- 
tle of boiling water and beat steadily while pouring in the boiling 
water. When thick and foamy, remove from the fire, add the 
juice of 1 lemon, and grate nutmeg on the top of the sauce. The 
juice of an orange and half the grated rind may be used instead 
of lemon juice and nutmeg. 

HARD SAUCE. 
1 cup powdered sugar, }i cup butter, 

Lemon juice, Nutmeg. 

Cream the butter and sugar and beat in the lemon juice. Place 
in a mould, set on ice, and serve when cold, grating a little nut- 
meg over it. This is made more delicate by adding the well- 
beaten whites of 2 eggs before setting away to harden. 

JELLY SAUCE. 

1 cup boiling water, 14, cup cold water, 
14, cup jelly, 2 tablespoons sugar, 

2 teaspoons cornstarch. 

Melt the sugar and jelly in the boiling water, and stir into it the 
cornstarch dissolved in the cold water, let it come to a boil and 
serve hot. 

LEMON SAUCE. 

2 cups sugar, 2 eggs, 

2 cups boiling water, 2 lemons, 

2 teaspoons cornstarch, 1 tablespoon butter. 

Beat eggs, sugar, butter and cornstarch together, and pour over 

them the boiling water, stirring constantly ; strain and cook over 

boiling water until thick ; remove from the fire, and add the juice 

and grated rind of the lemons. 

MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE. 

1 cup water, 4 tablespoons butter, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon flour. 

Melt the sugar in the water over a slow fire ; remove the scum ; 

add the butter mixed well with the fl.ourj boil 5 minutes, and 

serve with boiled puddings. 



lO.S 



PUDDING SAUCE 



VANILLA SAUCE. 

1 oup milk, 1 large teaspoon vanilla, 

3 eggs, 2 tablespoons sugar. 

Heat the milk in a double boiler, and pour over the yolks o:f 
eggs beaten with the sugar ; strain, and return to the kettle ; cook 
till it thickens, remove from the fire and add vanilla and the 
beaten whites of eggs. 

VINEGAR SAUCE. 
1 cup brown sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 

3 cups boiling water, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 

A pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon flour. 

Omit the water and beat the other ingredients well together. 
Add the boiling water, stir thoroughly and boil 10 minutes. 
Serve. 





mmiMmmi^mimimiMmimimmimimdiwiiiiimmimiiijm 



PURE water is the one necessary beverage, but desire or habit 
makes three others essential. Of these three, chocolate both 
nourishes and strengthens the system, and science claims that cof- 
fee is not only a gentle, natural stimulant, but nourishing in a 
small degree, while tea is stimulating and astringent. Many ob- 
ject to chocolate because of its hearty character, but there are 
various preparations which adapt it to the most delicate. Tannic 
acid, the injurious property in coffee and tea, is repressed or devel- 
oped in making. 

Do not make coffee in a tea-pot, or tea in one used for choco- 
late, but let each have its own vessel. Keep them clean, scald 
before using, and afterward wash in fresh water, rinse, and dry 
immediately. 

As the life of water is destroyed by long boiling or re-boiling, 
use only fresh-boiled water in making these drinks. Give the 
preference to soft rather than hard water for such purposes. 

Hot milk is a most refreshing and nourishing beverage, and one 
that cannot be too highly recommended. Directions for preparing 
it are given in the recipe. 

During hot weather, drinks made from fruits, or their juices in 
some form, are especially grateful and necessary to health. The 
acid of lime and lemon juice, and of shrubs, or the sub-acid of 
fruit juices, not only allay thirst, but cool the blood and supply a 
natural tonic greatly needed by the system. 

Two recipes are given for the old-fashioned root beer made by 
the mothers and grandmothers of the present generation. They 
will be found most palatable as well as healthful and invigorating. 

For an immediate effect when warm or cold, hungry or ex- 
hausted, drink is preferable to a solid food, as some time is re- 

109 



110 DRINKS. 

quired for the latter to affect the system. Cold water, not ice- 
water, in small quantities, is the best to allay great thirst. Hold 
it in the mouth close to the tonsils before swallowing, while keep- 
ing the palms of the hands wet and a wet cloth around the wrists. 
The best drinks for the other conditions are milk, chocolate and 
broth. 

COFFEE. 

To avoid adulteration, buy coffee in the grain, either raw or in 
small quantities freshly roasted. The best kinds are the Mocha 
and 0. Gr. Java ; mix the two, having roasted them separately, in 
the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the lat- 
ter. West India coffee, though of a different flavor, is often good. 

Roast coffee with the greatest care — here lies the secret of suc- 
cess in coffee-making — and in small quantities, for there is a pe- 
culiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. Pick over carefully, 
wash and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and roast 
quickly, either in the oven, or on top of the stove or range ; in the 
latter case, stir constantly, and in the oven stir often, with a 
wooden spoon or ladle kept for this purpose. The cofrae must be 
thoroughly and evenly roasted to a rich brown throughout, and 
must be free from any burnt grains, a few of which will ruin the 
flavor. It must be tender and brittle ; to test it take a grain, 
place it on the table, press with the thumb, and if it can be 
crushed, it is done. Stir in a lump of butter while the coffee is 
hot, or wait until about half cold and stir in a well-beaten egg. 
The latter plan is very economical, as coffee so prepared needs no 
further clarif^ang. Keep in a closely-covered tin or earthen ves- 
sel. Never attempt other work while roasting coffee, but give it 
the entire attention. Grind fine, and only in the quantity needed, 
for the flavor is dissipated after grinding, even when covered. If 
properly roasted, coffee will grind into distinct, hard, and gritty 
particles, and not into a powder. 

Physicians say that coffee without cream is more wholesome, 
particularly for delicate persons. There is an element in coffee 
which, combining with milk, forms a leathery coating on the stom- 
ach, and impairs digestion. 



DRINKS. Ill 

PRAIRIE COFFEE. 

1 pint corn meal, 1 pint wheat flour, 

}4 cup molasses, 1 teaspoon salt, 

Water for stiff dough. 

Mix, roll thin, cut out like yeast cakes ; put in a pan and dry in 
the oven. When thoroughly dry, brown very dark. To use, put 
2 or 3 of the cakes and 1 tablespoon of the coffee in the pot, pour 
on boiling water, let boil and settle. 

RICH AND STRONG COFFEE. 

1 cup best ground coffee, 1 quart boiling water, 

1 egg, white, K cup cold water. 

Beat the white, mix with the coffee, add cold water, put in the 

coffee-pot and stir in gradually the boiling water. Boil 1 minute. 

Take from the fire and put on the hearth to settle. 

STEAMED COFFEE. 

Put coffee into the pot, pour boiling water on it ; place this pot, 
which is made to fit, into the top of the teakettle, and cook from 
10 to 20 minutes over boiling water. This makes a clear, de- 
licious coffee. Some persons hold that by first wetting the coffee 
with cold water, bringing it to boiling point, and then pouring in 
boiling water, more of the strength is extracted. 

VIENNA COFFEE. 

Filter the coffee, allowing 1 tablespoon ground coffee to each per- 
son, and 1 for the pot. Put 1 quart of cream into a custard kettle 
or pail set into boiling water, where it will keep boiling ; beat the 
white of 1 Qgg to a froth and mix well with 3 tablespoons cold 
milk. As soon as the cream is hot, remove from fire, add the 
mixed ^gg and milk. Stir together for 1 minute and serve. 

Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover 
closely, boil 1 minute, remove to the side of the stove a few min- 
utes to settle and serve. Allow 2 heaping tablespoons coffee to 1 
pint water. 

GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM IN COFFEE. 

Beat well the white of an Qgg, and add a small lump of butter, 
whipping all together. Pour coffee over this slowly, stirring so it 
will not curdie. 



112 n RINKS 

ICED TEA 1. 

Pi'epitre tea in the morning, making it stronger and sweeter than 
usual ; strain and pour into a clean stone jug or glass bottle, and 
set aside in the ice chest until ready to use. Drink from goblets 
without cream. Serve ice broken in small pieces on a platter 
nicely garnished with well-washed grape leaves. 

ICED TEA — 2. 

Iced tea should have no hot water poured over it, but be allowed 
to stand in cold water for several hours. It should be made very 
strong, then weakened with ice. Soft water should always be 
used for making tea. 

RUSSIAN TEA. 

Into freshly-steeped tea drop slices of lemon, without the seeds, 
in the proportion of 1 slice to 1 small cup of tea. It can be used 
with or without sugar, and is particularly nice if served cold with 
bits of ice in the cups. 

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 

GINGER BEER 1. 

2 ounces ginger root, 4 quarts boiling water, 

2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 lemon, juice and rind, 

IX pounds sugar, }i cup yeast. 

Break the ginger root into small pieces, put in a large bowl or 
crock with the sugar, cream of tartar and lemon ; pour on boiling 
water, and when lukewarm, add yeast. Let it stand 6 hours, 
strain, and put up in self-sealing bottles. It should be kept in a 
cool place. 

GINGER BEER 2. 

5 ounces ginger root, }4 gallon water 

1 lemon, yellow peel. 

Ordinary ginger, tied in a bag, may be substituted for the root ; 

boil the ingredients one-half hour, then add 

4 gallons water, ^ pound honey, 

5 pounds sugar, 1}4 pints yeast, 

Juice of 4 lemons- 
MtrTiin when cold, add the well-beaten white of 1 Qgg ; let stand 
4 days and then bottle. 




THERE is no food that contains so large a proportion of nutri- 
ment according to its bulk as eggs ; they are a meal in them- 
selves. Plain boiled, they are wholesome ; and it i* asserted on 
French authority that it is easy to dress them in five hundred dif- 
ferent ways, economical and palatable. They contain phosphorus, 
which is brain food, and also sulphur, which performs a variety of 
functions in our physical economy. That they are too expensive 
seems to be the excuse most often given for their non-appearance 
during the greater part of the year; but at twenty -five cents a 
dozen they are cheaper than steak at fifteen cents, or chickens at a 
shilling a pound, and much more healthful during the warm 
weather. 

As a food for children, eggs cannot well be excelled, as they 
contain in a compact form everything necessar}' to the growth of 
the youthful frame. Eggs are not only food but medicine. The 
white is very efficacious in case of burns ; and the oil from the 
yolk is quite a cure for bruises, cuts and scratches. A raw egg, 
if swallowed in time, will effectually detach a fish-bone in the 
throat, and the whites of two eggs are a sure and convenient anti- 
dote for the poison of corrosive sublimate. They strengthen con- 
sumptives and invigorate the feeble. 

Many elaborate inventions for testing the newness of eggs have 
been patented, but to the housewife of experience they are not neces- 
sary, and one lacking experience may very soon gain it. A piece 
of pasteboard five or six inches square, with a hole in the center, 
about an inch square, held in front of a strong light, is all the ap- 
paratus necessary for the purpose, especially for determining the 
freshness of lightrshelled eggs. Place the egg against the hole, 
and look through it ; if it is a new-laid egg it will be quite full, 
but after about twenty hours an air-chamber or open space can be 
seen at the larger end, and this gradually enlarges as the egg grows 
older. A bad egg will not only have a large air-space, but the 
contents will be seen to have a mixed appearance towards the cen- 

113 



114 EGGS. 

ter. Get a new-laid egg, and some of different ages, and look at 
them, and one such lesson will be sufficient. A piece of paste- 
board can be easily obtained, and if a lamp is not at hand, the 
sunlight will answer the purpose nicely, so the thrifty housewife 
need not pa}^ for good eggs and receive poor ones. 

A simpler way to examine them is to put them into a weak 
brine. A heaping tablespoon of salt dissolved in a quart of water 
will make it the right strength. Eggs that are not more than a 
day old will fall to the bottom of this brine ; if more than six days 
old they will float ; if very bad they are so buoyant as to ride on 
on the surface of the brine. 

To beat whites of eggs : Use an earthen dish, broader at the 
top than at the bottom, and the bottom deeper in the center than 
at the sides. Break the eggs gently, and allow the whites to fall 
in the basin while the yolks are kept in the shell. This is done 
by breaking the egg in the middle, opening slowly to let the white 
fall ; if some remains turn the yolk from one half to the other till 
the whole has fallen. Add a very small pinch of salt to prevent 
curdling, beat slowly at first, and increase the speed as the egg 
grows light. It is done when it will not slide on the inclined sur- 
face of the dish. 

There are few ways of preparing eggs that are really difficult, 
but these hints may prove helpful : A little pinch of soda should 
be added to all kinds of custard, and they will not whey so easily ; 
if hot milk is called for in a recipe, remember that it must be 
poured over the eggs, instead of stirring the eggs into the milk, or 
they will be found cooked in little strings, or have a curdled ap- 
pearance. This rule is reversed, however, in making soup of milk 
and eggs, when the stringy appearance is desirable. Where fruit is 
called for, be careful not to use too much juice, especially that 
which is stewed or canned. Try custard to determine if done by 
a clean broom straw or a knitting needle ; if it comes out smooth, 
remove the custard from the stove at once. 

A few directions for preserving eggs are given here : Eggs will 
Keep in salt or when put down in lime, but are apt to taste strong 
after a time, and the whites become thin and watery. The best 
way is to dip them in a strong solution of gum arable ; dry them, 



EGKiM. 115 

dip again and dry thoroughly ; then wrap eacn egg in paper, and 
pack them in bran. Use only fresh eggs, and one will have fresh 
eggs in the winter when wanted. It is some trouble, but like 
many other things requiring time and patience, the end pays foi 
the work. 

Eggs may be preserved by rubbing them with a preparation 
made of equal parts of beef suet and mutton tallow melted to- 
gether. It should be soft enough to spread well when applied. 
Be sure that eveiy part of the egg is touched, and when all are 
greased, begin with the ones first treated, wipe them with a cloth, 
roll them in paper, and pack them in bran. A French method is 
to smear them with olive oil in which a little beeswax has been 
melted ; also to paint them over with varnish. 

Another tested way is to pack them firmly in dry sawdust, and 
keep in a cool, dry place. There has always existed a great dif- 
ference of opinion as to which end down eggs should be placed, 
in packing for winter use. W. H. Todd, the well-known Ohio 
breeder of poultry, gives what seems to be a sound reason for 
packing them larger end down. He says : ' ' The air-chamber is 
in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not 
break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil. Another 
thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink 
away. These are two important reasons deducted from experi- 
ments, and they materially affect the keeping of eggs. " 

RECIPES FOR COOKING EOOS. 

BAKED EGGS — 1. 

Plain baked eggs make a pretty breakfast dish. Take a deep 
eai-then plate, butter it and break in the eggs, adding salt, pepper, 
bits of butter, and bake in a moderate oven. Garnish with curled 
parsley, and serve with buttered toast. 

BAKED EGGS — 2. 
8 eggs, 3 tablespoons cream, 

Pepper and salt, Bits of butter. 

Break the eggs into a well-buttered dish, sprinkle with pepper 
and salt, add the butter and cream \ set in the oven and bake until 
the whites are set, or 10 minutes. Serve very hot. Grated cheese 
may be sifted over it. 



116 



EGGS. 



EGG BASKETS. 

Boil 6 eggs hard, cut nearly in half and extract the yolks ; rub 
these to a paste with some melted butter, pepper and salt, then set 
aside. Pound the minced meat of cold roast chicken, duck or 
turkey in the same manner, and mix with the egg paste, moisten- 
ing with melted butter, or with a little of the gravy. Cut off a 
slice from the bottom of the hollowed whites of the eggs, to make 
them stand ; fill with the paste, and put them close together upon 
a flat dish. Pour over the gravy left from the roast, heated boil- 
ing hot, and mellowed by a few spoonfuls of cream or rich milk. 
Set into the oven 5 minutes, and serve. 

birds' nests — 1. 
1 ounce fowl or meat, Chopped parsley, 

}^ cup bread crumbs, Powdered thyme and marjoram, 

j^ pint stock, K lemon, grated rind and juice, 

1 egg, 4 hard-boiled eggs. 

Mince the fowl or meat fine ; add bread crumbs, herbs and lemon 
juice, with the well-beaten egg to bind the mixture. Have the 
eggs warm, take from the shells and cover with the mixture. Fry 
them a light brown. Cut them in halves, and also cut off the end 
of the white, that they may stand on the platter. Have the stock 
hot, and well seasoned ; pour over the eggs and serve. 

birds' nests — 2. 
Boil eggs hard, remove shells, surround with force-meat ; cut in 
halves, fry or bake till nicely browned, and place in the dish with 
gravy. 

BOILED EGGS. 

Eggs cannot be too fresh for boiling, but a new-laid egg requires 
a little longer time in cooking than one three or five days old ; 
to make it particularly nice, slip it into a covered vessel of cold 
water, and when the water boils it will be beautifully cooked, the 
white delicate as a jelly, not tough and hard as when ordinarily 
cooked by putting into boiling water. The nicest way to eat a 
soft-boiled egg is from the shell. Place the small end of the egg 
in an egg cup. The large end should have the shell removed; 
then take away a small piece of the white and there is ample room 
for salt, pepper, and butter, which may be mixed with the egg 
without diflSculty. The serving, however, is a mere matter of 



EGGS. 117 

taste, and many prefer the egg broken into an egg cup or glass. 
Or, send the eggs to the table in a bowl, and pour on boiling water. 
After 5 minutes drain, and cover with more boiling water. Serve 
in 5 minutes. This is a simple and healthy way of boiling eggs, 
and should always be used for invalids and delicate persons. 
Eggs for salads, garnishings, and to be eaten hard, should be 
boiled from 30 to 45 minutes. They are unhealthy otherwise, and 
the yolks when mashed will not be mealy or free from lumps. To 
shell them, drop into cold water a few minutes, roll on the table 
with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily. If they have 
been allowed to become cold, dip for 1 minute in boiling hot water, 
and proceed in the same manner. 

HARD-BOILED EGGS. 
Ham or dried beef, A little mixed mustard, 

A bit of butter, Hard-boiled eggs. 

Cut the eggs in halves, take out the j'olks, mix with the minced 
ham or dried beef, and season with salt and pepper ; add the mus- 
tard and butter. Stuff each half of the egg and stand on a hot 
platter. Serve hot with a Bechamel sauce. 

Sauce. 
}4 teacup sifted flour, 1 pint milk, 

}i teaspoon salt, 1 small onion, 

A little black pepper, A little parsley. 

Rub flour and milk smooth, boil slowly, adding salt, onion, pep- 
per and parsley. When thick, add butter the size of an egg and 
strain. Thin it with cream if necessary. 

BREADED EGGS. 

Boil 6 eggs hard. When cold, remove the shells, slice them 
lengthwise ; dip each slice in a beaten egg, then in fine bread 
crumbs, and fry in butter or boiling lard. Serve hot. 

EGGS BROUILLE. 
6 eggs, 2 mushrooms, 

X cup milk or cream, 1 teaspoon salt, 

3 tablespoons butter, A little pepper. 

Nutmeg. 
Cut the mushrooms into dice, fry 1 minute in 1 tablespoon of 
butter ; beat the eggs, salt, pepper and cream together, and put 
into a saucepan. Add the butter and mushrooms to these ingre- 



118 EGGS. 

dients, stir over a moderate heat until the mixtui-e begins to 
thicken, take from the fire and beat rapidly until the eggs become 
thick and creamy. Have slices of toast on a hot dish. Heap the 
mixture on these and garnish with points of toast. Serve imme- 
diately. 

EGGS 1 LA CREME. 

Hard boil 12 eggs, and slice in thin rings. Butter well a deep 
baking dish, and fill with alternate layers of bread crumbs and egg 
slices. Sprinkle the layers with salt and pepper, adding bits of 
butter. Let the top layer be of bread crumbs. Cover with sweet 
cream and bake in a moderate oven. 

CURRIED EGOS. 

1 pint stock, 1 cnp cream, 

1 tablespoon curry powder, 2 onions, 

8 hard-boiled eggs. 

Slice the onions and fry in butter ; add the curry and broth ; 
stew till the onions are tender, then add the cream thickened with 
rice flour and simmer a few minutes. Cut the eggs in halves or 
slices, lay in a deep dish, and pour over them the sauce. Set the 
digh over boiling water till the eggs are hot, and serve. 

DEVILED EGGS. 

12 fresh eggs, ^ teaspoon mustard, 

}4 teaspoon powdered celery, Butter, size of an egg, 
4 tablespoons vinegar. 

Boil the eggs, take off the shells and cut across in the middle ; 
take out the j^olks and mix them with the other ingredients ; cut a 
thin slice from the end of the white of the egg, so each cup will 
set firmly on the platter, and fill with the prepared mixture. 
Gramish with celery, lettuce or nasturtium leaves. Serve with thin 
slices of bread and butter. Or, cut the eggs lengthwise in halves, 
take out the yolks, mash fine and beat into them with a fork a 
mayonnaise or other strong salad dressing. Fill and round up 
each white cup with the mixture, and arrange on lettuce or cress 
leaves, serving with cold boiled ham. In preparing for picnics fill 
to the level of the sides, join the halves together, and wrap in 
waxed paper. 




RECENT investigation is said to prove that the value of fish, 
as a brain food, has been greatly exaggerated ; however, as 
fish contains little fat, a large quantity of nitrogenous matter, and 
is easily digested it should frequently come to the table. The 
abundance and cheapness of fish, also make it desirable. One of 
the most common objections to a fish dinner is that it is not as at- 
tractive as a meat one, but this may be obviated by care in cooking 
the fish whole, and by taste in garnishing. There are many deli- 
cate ways of serving fish which, with the peculiar kinds of vegeta- 
bles and sauces that accompany them, tempt the most fastidious 
appetite. 

Fish may be divided into two classes as follows : Salt and fresh 
water fish ; of which are red-blooded and white fish, rock and shell 
fish. These kinds may be procured fresh, dry salted, pickled or 
smoked. 

Salmon, mackerel, and blue fish, are oily and rich, and may be 
boiled without losing their nutritive qualities to the same degree as 
dryer leaner fish. Some parts of halibut, as the fins, are very rank 
and oily, and are improved by boiling in more than one water. 
Fish should never be used unless it is perfectly fresh, as some kinds 
are poisonous when even slightly decayed. To ascertain if a fish 
is fresh, press on it with the finger. If the flesh is firm, hard, and 
elastic, it is good ; but if the eyes are dull, and sunken, and the 
gills pale, it is unfit for food. 

The flesh of fish will often become soft, even when fresh, by 
keeping it in water or on ice. This should never be done unless 
the fish is frozen ; then it is necessary to thaw it in cold water. 
To keep fish cool and firm after cleaning, dry well, rub with salt, 
and lay on an open wooden rack, such as can be made at home, 
and place in a box or pan over ice, but not touching it j cover with 

119 



120 PISH. 

a box or pan to keep in the coolness. Do not put fish into the re- 
frigerator as it will taint the other food, especially milk, cream, 
and butter. Fish out of season will not be good. It is better to 
use something else. 

Of course it is impossible to name all the excellent varieties, as 
they differ with the locality. In the South is the shad, the sheep's- 
head, the golden mullet and the Spanish mackerel ; in the North 
the luscious brook trout, and the wonderful and choice tribes that 
people the inland lakes. Among the best of the fresh-water fish, sold 
generally in the markets of the interior, are the Lake Superior trout 
and white fish, and, coming from cold waters, the}^ keep best of all 
fresh-water fish ; the latter is the best, most delicate, and has fewer 
bones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and 
pickerel of the inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped, 
packed in ice, reaching market as fresh as when caught, and are 
sold at moderate prices. Both eastern and California salmon are 
shipped in the same way, and sold fresh in all cities, with fresh cod 
and other choice varieties fi'om the Atlantic coast, but the long 
distance they must be transported makes the price high. The cat- 
fish is the staple Mississippi River fish, and is cooked in various 
ways. 

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or lose their sweetness ; 
cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free 
from every string. They are good except in the hottest summer 
months, the fat ones being best. A fine codfish is thick at the 
back of the neck, and is best in cold weather. In sturgeon, the 
fish should be white, the veins blue, the grain even and the skin 
tender. Sturgeon is often put up and sold for smoked halibut. 
The skin of halibut should be white ; if dark it is more likely to 
be sturgeon. Smoked salmon should be fii-m and dry. Smoked 
white fish and trout are very nice, the former being a favorite in 
whatever way dressed. Select good, firm, whole fish. White 
fish is very nice broiled. Each of the above is better than herring. 

Fish should be dressed as quickly as possible in strong salt and 
water, and, to avoid the necessity of using much water about them, 
wash with a cloth wet in salted water. Wipe dry, and let lie in 
the cooler two hours, if possible. 



FISH. 121 

To clean a fish, remove the scales by scraping with a sharp 
knife, or common iron card, from the tail to the head. Lay it on 
a smooth board, and scrape slowly, so as not to scatter the scales. 
Rinse the scraper often in a pan of water. If the fish is to be 
served whole do not remove the head and tail. Split it open from 
the gills half way down the body, and remove the entrails, scrape, 
and clean with a cloth. Be sure to remove all the blood near the 
back bone, and the sound. If the fish needs to be skinned, as do 
suckers, and some others, cut a thin, narrow strip down the back, 
removing the dorsal fin ; cut around the neck, insert the knife, and, 
by aid of thumb and fingers, strip the skin down toward the tail. 
If it needs to be boned after cleaning and skinning, begin at the 
tail, and run the knife up the backbone, scraping it clear of flesh, 
and be careful not to break the flakes. When both sides have 
been scraped clean, slip the knife under the large bone and remove 
carefully ; the small bones must be pulled out separately, leaving 
the flesh in shape on the board. Fish with many bones, as pick- 
erel, shad, herring, etc. , are not boned. 

A boned fish may be rolled up compactly from tail to head, and 
boiled, steamed, or baked. Large fish may be cut crosswise into 
steak. Salt fish should be soaked, at least over night, in clean 
soft water, skin side up ; and most salt and pickled fish are im- 
proved by changing water, and soaking six hours longer. Wash 
all salt fish thoroughly in warm water before soaking. 

All fish for boiling should be wrapped in a cloth kept for the 
purpose, and plunged into boiling water, except salmon, which 
should be put into lukewarm water to preserve the color, and 
mackerel and bluefish, which should be put on in cold water. 
Fish weighing two pounds should be cooked gently about twenty 
minutes after the water actually boils, and six minutes for each ad- 
ditional pound. Do not boil fish rapidly, as it breaks the flakes 
before the inside is done. Many prefer to steam fish, because 
steaming takes less from their nutritive qualities, but it requires 
more time. The juices of a fish are alkaline, therefore lemon, 
vinegar, and many of the sauces are excellent neutralizing agencies, 
and are often added in boiling. If one has not a fish kettle, a 
round of tin, pierced with holes like a colander to fit a kettle, may 



122 



FISH, 



be used. Skewer and tie the fish into the required shape. The 
letter S is liked, but the circle is more easily made by inserting 
the tail in the mouth. Lay on the round of tin, and tie all to- 
gether in a square of cheese cloth, or white netting, keeping the 
knot on top. Put into the kettle and boil the required time. A 
strong fork or hook under the knot will lift it out without trouble, 
and the fish may be slipped on the platter without breaking. 

To bake fish, one should have a similar tin to fit the baking pan. 
Put in something to hold it up from the bottom half an inch, and 
cover with thin slices of salt pork ; fill the fish with a dressing 
made as for goose, only a little drier, and sew up. Skewer and 
tie into shape, and lay it on the pork, place slices of pork on the 
fish and fasten from slipping with small wooden pins. Bake care- 
fully basting with melted butter, if very dry. When lifted, re- 
move all the pork, put on the platter, and dot with several small 
lumps of butter. Salmon or lake trout, shad, white fish, and 
pickerel are excellent baked. Oysters or white onions may be 
used in the dressing. Slices of lemon may be laid over the fish 
when it comes to the table. 

To broil fish, a good hard coal fire, or the coals of hard wood in 
a mass is needed, that the fish may not be smoked. One can cut 
off the head and tail of small fish and broil whole. Split in halves a 
fish weighing one pound or less ; cut larger fish in half, and 
divide crosswise to suit the broiler. Oily fish need pepper and 
salt, but dry ones, like white fish, need to be rubbed in olive oil or 
butter before broiling. Grease well a double wire broiler with 
pork fat, put in the fish, hold close to the coals, and turn often. 
The flesh side should be cooked brown. Small fish need to cook 
five to ten minutes, and larger fish fifteen to twenty. When the 
fish is very thick, to brown nicely, lay the broiler on a dripping 
pan and put into the oven till cooked through. The flesh will 
easily separate from the bones when it is done. Herrings are 
sometimes wrapped in buttered brown paper and broiled in a pan 
in a hot oven ; care must be taken that both pan and oven are 
very hot. Serve broiled fish with butter and pepper, and accom- 
pany with salad dressing and sharp pickles. 

Oily fish should never be fried. Dry fresh fish may be rolled \n 



FISH. 123 

wheat or com flour, and fried quickly in plenty of hot lard. Tal^ 
out on a large wire receiver, and drain carefully over the pan ; 
add pepper and butter when it comes to the table. Frying in a bit 
of butter or lard is neither broiling nor frying, but partakes of the 
nature of both. Cook until the under side is brown before turning, 
or it will break. Few fish will fry in less than three minutes, and 
a thick fish requires considerably more time. Have fish thoroughly 
dry that the flour in which it is rolled may not become pasty. 

Stewed tomatoes or some acid sauce should be served with fried 
fish. Fish to be steamed should be prepared and served as if for 
boiling. Salt fish may be freshened, and broiled or toasted, and 
served with butter gravy, or simply as a relish, buttered and pep- 
pered. Smoked fish may be broiled or baked in buttered papers. 
Pickled fish may be freshened and boiled, toasted or baked. 
Mackerel and herring should be laid lengthwise of the platter, 
heads and tails alternating. Always garnish the platter, if it be 
with nothing more than a wreath of wild grape vine in summer, or 
leaves from cabbage sprouts in winter, made bright with bits of 
beet pickles, or slices of lemon. Fish is spoiled by waiting, there- 
fore remove all skewers and twine quickly and send to the table on 
hot dishes. One can easily select No. 1 salt mackerel, as it is 
marked by the dresser, at the time of putting up, with one slit 
with a knife at the right of the backbone inside. No. 2 has two 
slits, and if not marked at all they are of an inferior grade. 

FISH IN SEASON. 

Trout, white fish, pickerel, crabs, perch, etc. , are eaten the year 
round. 

Winter: Halibut, cod, haddock, flounders, white fish, smelts. 

September to May : Oysters, clams. 

May to September : Salmon. 

November to August : Shad, brook trout, lake trout. 

April to October : Mackerel, eels, lobsters. 

June to October : Blue fish. 



FISH. 

CLAMS. 

Fresh clams are heavy and their shells close tightly. To pre- 
pare clams for boiling place a peck of fresh clams in a bushel 
basket, sift well among them a pint of yellow corn meal, and cover 
the basket for the night. The next day dash over them a pail of 
clear cold water, give them another pint of meal and let stand an- 
other day. They will then be in fine condition for boiling, the 
feeding having very much improved them. Now place 2 quarts 
of boiling water in a kettle, wash the clams well and pour them 
into it. Let boil smartly until the shells are well open ; remove to 
a large pan, and when cool enough, take off half the shell and 
serve on the other half, with a little salt. This boiling is neces- 
sary in preparing clams for cooking in any way. A pair of sharp 
scissors are indispensable in removing the black heads, as should 
always be done in preparing them for stews, soups, scallops and 
chowders. 

SEASIDE CL^M BAKE. 

Have a level floor of stones for an oven, and pile on it seaweed 
and burn, adding as it burns out, until the stones will crackle when 
water is sprinkled upon them. Sweep off the ashes, and spread 
on a thin layer of seaweed. Have the clams well rinsed in salt 
water. Pile them on the hot stones, making them low in the center, 
and a ridge around, sloping off to the edges of the rock. Lay 
into the depression thus made halves of chicken, well di'essed, ears 
of green corn, potatoes, which have been thoroughly cleaned with 
seaweed or a rough cloth, and a nice bluefish or pickerel ; in fact, 
almost any young, tender meat, fish, or vegetable, is delicious 
cooked in the steam of the clams. Cover the whole thickly with 
seaweed, and over this throw a great piece of canvas to keep in 
the steam. When the shells of the clams in the ridge are thor- 
oughly open, which will be in about 45 minutes, the whole will be 
done. Have ready melted butter, salt, vinegar, pepper, and brown 
bread, to serve with this bake. One never gets to the dessert. 




THE value of fruits as food is far from being understood. 
They are more or less abundant in every part of the world, 
and nourish and refresh those who are wise enough to include them 
among the necessaries of life. 

Nature has provided under a variety of forms and coverings the 
sweets and acids, flavors and oils, essential to the sustenance of 
every portion of the body. First in importance and universality 
is the apple, and the grape follows; these have been called the 
king and queen of fruits. It has been quaintly phrased that ' ' in 
that case the berries might be members of the royal family, 
peaches, pears, and plums, members of the cabinet, and tropical 
fruits, the foreign ministers. " Fruits are first cousins to grains, 
and science has demonstrated that together they constitute a food 
which produces a well-developed, strong-limbed and clear-brained 
people. 

The athletes of ancient Greece were trained entirely on a vege- 
table diet. The boatmen of Constantinople, who live on bread, 
cherries, figs, dates, and other fruits, have a wonderful muscular 
development. The children of the desert exist for a long time 
upon a handful of dates a day, and travelers speak of raisins and 
parched corn as common fare. 

If this were a medical article manj^ authorities might be cited 
whose study and experience prove ' ' that there is scarcely a dis- 
ease to which the human family is now heir, but the sufferings 
therefrom would be greatly relieved or entirely prevented by the 
use of fruits which are now so generally forbidden" Or neglected. 
Particularly do the nervous American people need all that nature 
can give in this line to supply the waste of the S3'stem, and rein- 
force the vitalitj'. 

During the last ten years there has been a most gratifying in- 
crease in the use of fruit, and the supply has multiplied and im- 

125 



126 FRUIT. 

proved to meet the demand. Fruits are to be highly prized, 
whether fresh or dried, cooked or raw, as food or in beverages, and 
ought to constitute a large part of the daily fare. Wives and 
mothers are learning that a farinaceous and fruit diet is not only 
desirable for the children, but is one of nature's agencies to pro- 
vide a sound body and a sound mind, and aid in the formation of 
temperate desires and habits. 

Taste, and often genius is shown in the arrangement of fruit for 
the table. All varieties are apprDpriate breakfast dishes, and the 
season determines largely what can be used. Fruits should be 
carefully selected. Melons should be kept on ice, so as to be 
thoroughly chilled when served. Nutmeg melons should be cut in 
the grooves, and have the seeds removed before serving. Water- 
melons should either be cut across the middle and served in the 
rind in sections, or have the heart removed and brought in on 
the plates. Apples should be perfectly ripe and pared before eat- 
ing. From among the many varieties some can be found suited to 
almost every month of the year. Sweet apples are particularly 
nice baked and served with sweet cream. ' ' Bananas are destined 
to be the fruit of the future," says one importer, and no other fruit 
possesses such a large amount of nutriment. The increase of the 
excellency, and the cheapness of grapes, as well as their abundance 
in every part of the country, put them within reach of all. The 
imported varieties flourish luxuriantly in California, while the fine- 
ness of her raisins is giving her the precedence over the foreign 
trade. See that grapes are washed and drained well before serv- 
ing. Oranges are to the southern and tropical lands what the 
apple is to the temperate zone, but the facilities of transportation 
give each section the benefit of all. Our own country now rivals 
foreign ones in the cultivation of oranges, while California and 
Florida vie with each other to produce the finest variety. The 
sourer oranges of the market come from Valencia. The simplest 
of many ways to eat an orange is to cut a slice from the top and 
eat the juice and pulp with a spoon. Medical experts claim that a 
sour orange eaten daily before breakfast produces usually a condi- 
tion of almost perfect health. Peaches are not only a delicious 
fruit for food, but beautiful for table decoration. Apricots and 



FRUIT. 127 

nectarines increase the variety with a delicate though peculiar 
flavor. Pears are more highly prized each year, and, combined 
with peaches, plums, and grapes, present a dish delightful to the 
eye, as well as grateful to the palate. The red or strawberry pine- 
apple is greatly inferior to the white one, though suggesting its de- 
licious flavor. The sugar loaf, one of the sweetest and best pines, 
comes from Havana, while some choice varieties are produced in 
Jamaica. They should either be grated, or picked with a fork 
from the hard core, and sprinkled with sugar a little time before 
serving. Buy cocoanuts cautiously in summer, as the milk is 
quickly soured by the heat. Of almonds the Princess is the best 
variety to buy in the shell ; of the shelled, the Jordan is the finest, 
though the Sicily is good. For cake or confectionery, the shelled 
are most economical. 

Many small fruits are used as long as the season allows. The 
fresh strawberry, raspberry and blackberry are in great demand on 
the table ; their fine flavor is lost in some measure by cooking. 
The white currant is a favorite for the table, and the red more 
commonly used in cooking. Red and white currants mixed form 
a pleasing dish. If berries are clean do not wash, but pick them 
over carefully. If they need to be washed, put into a sieve or 
colander and set in a large pan of water, allowing the water to flow 
around each berry. Drain quickly, and avoid mashing. 

CANNED FRUIT. 

*<If an^i;hing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well," 
finds a good illustration here, for poor work means either spoiled 
or injured fruit. Select perfect fruit, just ripe, fresh picked, and 
cook with very little sugar. Small fruits should be picked early 
in the morning, and canned immediately, if possible. Use a silver 
knife in preparing large fruits, and drop them into cold water to 
prevent change of color. All fruit should be carefully picked 
over, and cooked slowly in a porcelain or granite-lined kettle with 
a very little water and sugar. The sugar can be omitted without 
detriment to the fruit. It must boil to prevent fermentation, but 
not rapidty, or it will lose its flavor and its form. 

The cans should be of glass, free from flaws and blisters, with a 



128 FRUIT. 

tightly-fitting porcelain-lined cover. The rubbers should be fitted, 
washed in warm, not hot water, and if any are hard or stretched, 
reject them. They can be replaced from any robber, crockery or 
ordinary grocery store for a trifle. Use pint jars for small fam- 
ilies. See that the jars are washed, sweet, and the covers fitted be- 
fore beginning to work. 

While the fruit is cooking, thoroughly scald the cans and have 
them read}?- in a pan of hot water. When ready to fill, set one at a 
time on a hot plate, that if the juice is spilled it may be saved. It 
is better to prepare only two or three cans of fruit at once, as one 
is apt to get tired and not do the work well. Attend to only one 
can at a time. Fill level full, let settle a moment, and fill up 
again. Wipe oflf the neck of the jar, put on the rubber, fill up 
with hot syrup, if the fruit has settled more, and screw on the 
cover as tightly as possible, holding the jar with a damp towel. 
One object of excluding the air is to keep out germs which would 
cause the fruit to spoil. Boiling kills these and that is the reason 
for sealing at the boiling point. This is the whole secret of per- 
fect canning. As the fruit cools, it will shrink and leave a 
vacuum. 

If there is plenty of time, can fruit in the following manner : 
Fill the jars with the fresh fruit, put on the covers loosely, and set 
upon a rack, in a large boiler or kettle of lukewarm water. Let 
the water come within two inches of the top of the cans which 
must not touch each other. Cover the cans with a thick, folded 
cloth, and steam until the fruit is soft. A syrup made of equal 
parts of sugar and water can be poured into each jar, filling it two- 
thirds full, or sugar can be sprinkled over the berries before put- 
ting into the jars, and then steam. If sugar is not used, fill each 
can full from one kept hot for that purpose, take out from the 
boiler with a cloth, set on the table, out of a draft, and screw on 
the top taken from a pan of hot water, first putting on the rubber 
rings. Everything about the fruit must be kept hot. Before 
screwing on the top, slip a silver spoon into the jar to allow the air 
bubbles to escape, then screw it on as firmly as possible, and in- 
vert the can on a table in a cool place. Leakage will then be 
known immediately. When the cans are cool, give another screw 



FRUIT. 



129 



to the cover. Use labels, and apply with the white of an egg. 
Set them in a cool, dark place, as light and warmth, as well as 
moisture, causes fermentation. If large mouthed bottles must be 
used in canning, steam the corks, pare them to fit closely, and 
drive them in with a mallet. Seal with plaster of Paris, or a wax 
made as follows : One pound resin, three ounces beeswax, one and 
one-half ounces tallow. Put it on the corks with a brush at first, 
and while cooling dip the mouth of the bottle into the melted wax. 
To can successfully, have close-fitting covers for the cans, soft, 
firm rubber rings, keep everything hot, fill the cans full, and seal 
immediately. Use wooden or silver spoons, porcelain ladles, sil- 
ver forks, clean, soft towels, and take plenty of time, care and 
patience. 

LENGTH OF TIME REQUIRED FOR COOKING FRUIT. 

Blueberries and cherries 5 min. 

Currants, blackberries, raspberries 6 to 8 " 

Gooseberries and halved peaches 10 '* 

Strawberries 15 " 

Whole peaches 20 " 

Halved pears and quinces 20 " 

Sliced pineapple 20 " 

Crab apples and sliced pears 30 " 

DR. SUSANNA DODD's TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 
Fruit. Water. Sugar. 

Strawberries 5 quarts 1 quart % cup. 

Red currants 5 " 

Red raspberries 5 " 

Black raspberries 5 " 

Raspberries and currants. . . 5 " 

Blackberries 5 " 

Gooseberries 6 " 

" for pies 6 " 

May cherries 5 " 

Black Morello cherries 5 " 

Seeded Morello, for pies 5 " 

Grapes 6 " 

Cranberries 2 " 

Peaches 6 " 

Pears 7 " 

Damson plums 6 " 

Green or blue gage 6 " 



3 quarts 1 

3 " K 

5 pints % 

5 " H 

3 " % 

2 quarts 2 

3 pints 2 

3 quarts X 

2 " 1 

3 " IH 

2 " No sugar. 

3 pints 1 cup, 

1 quart No sugar. 

1 H <4 (( 

5 pints 2 cups. 

3 " 1 cup. 



130 FKUTT. 

CANNED APPLE SAUCE. 

Make a syrup of 2 cups water to one-half cup sugar, and pre- 
pare tart apples — mellow ones that are not likely to keep long may 
be used. Put the fruit into the boiling syrup, let cook slowly till 
done, and can. Do not stir while cooking if it is desired to keep 
the fruit whole. Or, omit the sugar when canning, and heat and 
add sugar before using. 

CANNED APPLES AND QUIPTCES. 

Prepare equal quantities of apples and quinces. Cook quinces 
till tender in water sufficient to cover them, take out the quinces 
and cook the apples in the same water. Put in jars in alternate 
layers and cover with a syrup, allowing one-half pound of sugar to 
1 pound of fruit, and water to dissolve it. Let stand 12 hours, 
heat thoroughly and seal in cans. 

CANNED BERRIES. 

Select berries whose skins have not been broken, or the juice 
will darken the syrup ; fill cans compactly, set in a kettle of cold 
water, with a cloth beneath them, over an even heat; when suf- 
ficiently heated, pour over the hemes a syrup of white sugar. 
The richer the syrup is the better for keeping, though not for 
preserving the flavor of the fruit. Cover the cans closely to re- 
tain heat on the top berries. To insure full cans when cold, have 
extra berries heated in like manner to supply shrinkage. If the 
fruit swims, pour off surplus syrup, fill with hot fruit, and seal up 
as soon as the fruit at the top is thoroughly scalded. 

PLAIN CANNED BERRIES. 

Pick out stems or hulls, if gathered carefully the berries will 
not need washing, put in a porcelain kettle on the stove, adding a 
small cup of water to prevent burning at first. Skim well, add 
sugar to taste, if for pies it may be omitted, let boil 5 minutes, fill 
glass or stone cans, and seal with putty or plaster of Paris, unless 
self sealers are used. This rule applies to raspberries, blackber- 
ries, currants, gooseberries, or any of the small berries. 

CANNED BLACKBERRIES. 

To each quart of berries allow 1 pint sugar, sprinkle the sugar 
over the berries and set in a warm place till the juice settles suf- 



FRUIT. 131 

ficiently ; boil 15 minutes, put into cans and seal at once. Black 
raspberries may be canned in the same manner. 

CANNED BLUEBERRIES. 

Look the berries over carefully, wash them, and for every quart 
can, allow 1 cup sugar, add water enough to prevent burning, and 
cook 10 minutes. Can the same as other fruit. An ordinary 
crate holds sixteen quarts and will can about ten quarts. 

CANNED CHERRIES— 1. 

Wash and stone the cherries, straining the juice and adding it to 
the fruit. Sprinkle with sugar, allowing 1 cup sugar to each 
quart. Let stand till the juice settles, cook slowly 10 minutes, 
pour into cans and seal. The flavor of cherries is improved by 
boiling a tablespoonful of the pits tied in a muslin bag, with each 
can of fi'uit. Remove before sealing. 

CANNED CHERRIES 2. 

K pint sugar, 1 cup water. 

2 pounds pitted cherries. 

Sour cherries are best for canning, but white ones are also nice 
as they retain their color after cooking. They require less sugar. 
Make a syrup of sugar and water in the proportions given, skim, 
add the fruit, and boil 5 minutes ; pour into jars and seal at once. 

CANNED CITRON. 

1 pound fruit, 1 lemon, sliced, 

^ pound sugar, Ginger to flavor. 

Pare the citron, cut it in little blocks and steam till tender. 
Make a syrup of the sugar and water sufficient to flU the cans ; 
let it boil 10 minutes, add the fruit, ginger and lemon, boil 3 min- 
utes, pour into cans and seal. 

CANNED CURRANTS. 

Look the currants over carefully^ removing stems ; weigh, and 
heat slowly in a covered kettle ; stew gently 20 or 30 minutes, and 
add sugar, allowing 1 pound to each pound of fruit. Shake the 
kettle occasionally to mix the fruit and sugar; do not boil, but 
keep as hot as possible till the sugar is dissolved ; seal at once. 
White currants are excellent canned in this manner. 



132 



FRurr. 



CANNED ELDERBERRIES — 1. 
16 pounds elderberries, 7 pounds sugar, 

2 pounds seeded raisins, 1 pint vinegar. 
Cook thoroughly and seal in cans or jars. 

CANNED ELDERBERRIES 2. 

1 gallon elderberries, 1 quart seeded grapes, 

1 quart N. O, molasses. 

Boil half an hour and seal. This will also keep well in jars. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. 

Cook the berries in water until white, but not enough to break 
them ; put into cans with as little w^ater as possible, fill up the can 
with boiling water and seal ; when opened pour off the water and 
cook like fresh berries. 

CANNED GRAPES 1. 

Look over the grapes carefully, wash and weigh them, using one- 
half pound sugar to 1 pound fruit. Prepare the grapes by pop- 
ping the pulps from the skins as directed in recipe for preserving 
grapes ; cook the pulp till the seeds are loosened, strain through a 
sieve, add the skins and sugar to the juice, cook 15 minutes, pour 
into cans and seal at once. 

CANNED GRAPES — 2. 

Pick over the grapes carefully, wash in hot water, and fill the 
cans as solidly as possible ; set on a cloth in a kettle of cool water 
and heat. When the water boils, add a syrup made of equal 
measures of sugar and water, filling the cans to overflowing, and 
seal. Take the cans from the water, cool, and tighten the covers. 

CANNED FRUIT JUICES. 

Press the juice from fresh, ripe fruit, strain through a flannel 
cloth, and to each pint add 1 cup granulated sugar ; heat to the 
boiling point, and seal in small fruit cans or in bottles. In the 
latter use only new corks. Press them in firmly and cover well 
with plaster of Paris to exclude the air. Fruit juices areCused in 
cakes, puddings, and sauces. 

CANNED PEACHES — 1. 

3 pounds sugar, 1 pint vinegar, 

1 peck clingstone peaches. 
Four boiling water over the peaches to remove the fuzz ; make 



FRUIT. 133 

a syrup of the sugar and vinegar, using a little water if required 
to cover the peaches ; cook soft, and can as usual. 

CANNED PEACHES 2. 

Pare, halve and stone ; make a syrup of 1 pint granulated sugar 
to 1 quart water, cook in a porcelain kettle, and when it boils, 
drop in enough fruit for one can; watch closely, testing with a 
silver fork, remove very gently when the peaches are tender, and 
place in the can previously heated according to instructions. 
When filled, pour in the hot sjTup, cover, and seal at once; add 
the fruit to the hot syrup, and repeat the operation. If there are 
more peaches than are needed, place them in another can and keep 
hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. Skim 
the syrup before adding peaches, making only enough at one time 
for two cans. 

CANNED PEACHES 3. 

Make a sweet syrup and keep it hot in a porcelain kettle on the 
stove. Have plenty of hot water in another one. Pare, halve 
and drop the peaches into the boiling water; let them remain 
until a silver fork will pierce them, then lift out with a wire spoon, 
fill a can, pour in all the boiling syrup it will hold, and seal imme- 
diately. Continue in this way, preparing and sealing only one can 
at a time; boil down the water with the syrup, if any is left; if 
not, add more sugar, and quite a nice marmalade will result. 

CANNED PEACHES 4. 

Pare and halve the peaches, removing the pits, and lay them in 
cold water. Make a syrup, using 1 pound sugar to 3 pints hot 
water. Fill the jars with the cold peaches, sprinkling each layer 
well with sugar ; fill the jars with the hot syrup, and seal imme- 
diately. 

CANNED PEACHES STEAMED. 

To peel, place in a wire basket, dip into boiling water for a mo- 
ment, then into cold water, and strip off the skin ; this saves both 
fruit and labor. The fruit must not be too green or it will not 
peel, nor too ripe or it will be softened by the hot water. Place a 
cloth in the bottom of a steamer, half fill with the peaches from 
which the pits have been removed, cover tightly, set over a kettle 
of boiling water, and steam till they can be easily pierced with a 



134 FRUIT. 

silver fork. Prepare a syrup in a porcelain kettle; drop the 
peaches gently into the boiling syrup for a moment, remove to the 
cans, fill with the syrup, and seal at once. With the exception of 
the mode of peeling, this recipe applies equally well to pears. 

CANNED PEARS. 

Prepare and can as in recipe for canning peaches No. 2, except 
that they require longer cooking. When done they are easily 
pierced with a silver fork. A sliced lemon may be added. 

CANNED PINEAPPLE. 

Pare, cut out the eyes, and pick the pulp from the core of ripe 
pineapples ; make a syrup, using 2^ pounds sugar to 3 pints water ; 
boil 5 minutes, skim, add fruit, let boil up well, pour into hot cans 
and seal. 

CANNED PLUMS. 

2 pounds plums, 1 pound sugar, 

1 pint water. 

Make a syrup of the sugar and water, wash the plums and put 

them into the syrup whole, boil 8 minutes, put into cans and seal 

at once. If pricked with a fork before placing in syrup they are 

less apt to burst. Cherries may be canned in the same manner. 

Twelve pounds of damsons and three pounds of sugar will fill six 

quart cans, and the same rule holds good for pears and peaches. 

CANNED GREEN GAGE PLUMS. 

Look the fruit over carefully and wash it ; fill the cans and place 
in a boiler of cold water, having the water come up as far as pos- 
sible around the cans and not boil over into the fruit. Cook till 
the fruit is tender — H or 2 hours. Take out the cans and pour 
the juice that has accumulated on the plums into a preserving ket- 
tle, and add sufficient sugar to make a rich S3Tup ; let boil up well, 
fill the cans, return to the boiler, and let stand in the boiling water 
15 minutes longer ; screw on the tops, and remove from the water. 
Each can must be full before sealing. 

TO KEEP PLUMS. 

Select perfect plums, which are not too ripe, and fill a larg^* 
crock, putting them in carefully so as not to break the skins. 
Then cover them with water, which must be poured on boiling hot, 
and turn over them a plate which will fit into the crock easily^ al- 



FRUIT. 135 

lowing none of the plums to rise above it. The water should be 
level with the top. Keep the crock in the cellar, and cover it with 
a board. A scum will rise on the plums during the winter, which 
helps to keep them. When wanted for use, scald them, pour off 
the water, add more, and stew until tender. Sweeten to taste. 

CANNED RASPBERRIES 1. 

To preserve the shape and color of red raspberries, put them 
carefully into the cans, sprinkling in sugar if desired. Fill the 
cans, shaking the berries down gently, and proceed as directed in 
recipe for Canned Berries, except that no syrup will be required. 
Put the covers on loosely to retain the heat, and cook till the fruit 
boils, filling the cans as it settles with extra berries heated in the 
same manner. Screw the covers down tight and take the cans 
from the water, being careful to tighten the covers as they cool. 

CANNED RASPBERRIES 2. 

Have ready a pan of ice-cold water. Look over the berries, and 
throw 1 quart at a time into the water. With a wire skimmer, 
dip them carefully into a granite-lined kettle. For every 3 quarts 
allow 1 large cup sugar. Let them stand till there is enough juice 
to cook without burning. Simmer slowly, being careful not to 
break the fruit. When thoroughly heated, fill the cans, screw on 
:be top, shake down, open and fill again, sealing quickly, and keep 
in a dark, cool place. Black-caps require some water, as they are 
much dryer than the red berries. Red raspberries and currants 
in equal quantities may be canned in the same manner. 

CANNED RASPBERRIES WITH CURRANT JUICE. 

13 pounds sugar, 1 quart currant juice, 

10 pounds red or black raspberries. 

Make syrup of the sugar and juice ; when boiling, add the fruit, 

and continue to boil for 10 minutes. Put in glass cans and fasten 

immediately. 

CANNED RHUBARB. 

Prepare and stew without sugar, and as little water as possible 
to prevent burning, before the juice flows. Have the cans ready, 
fill, and screw on covers quickly. When cool, wrap the cans in 
brown paper, and keep in a cool, dark place. Or, let simmer for 



136 FRUIT. 

half an hour in a syrup, using the same weight of sugar as fruit, 
then seal. 

Always use granite, earthen, or glass for rhubarb. The leaves 
should be cut from the stalk as soon as it is pulled, and it should 
be kept in a cool i^lace, to have it fresh and firm for a day or two. 

CANNED STRAWBERRIES 1. 

To each quart of fresh strawberries allow 1 coffeecup sugar. 
If there is no juice in the bottom of the fruit, add 1 or 2 table- 
spoons water to prevent burning before the heat brings out the 
juice; heat slowly, and when it boils, add the sugar, stir gently 
until it boils up again, and can immediately. It is better to cook 
only enough fruit for one can at a time. Usually a few spoonfuls of 
the syrup will be left to begin the next can. Strawberries are con- 
sidered difficult to keep, but there is no trouble if the fruit is fresh, 
the can air-tight, and kept according to general directions for can- 
ning fruit. 

CANNED STRAWBERRIES 2. 

Place as many berries as can be put carefully into the preserv- 
ing kettle on a platter ; add sugar, allowing three-quarters of a 
pound to each pound of fruit, and let them stand 2 or 3 hours ; 
pour the juice that has settled into the kettle, remove the scum 
that rises when it begins to boil, and put the berries carefully into 
it. Let them boil up thoroughly, and seal at once. 

CANNED WATERMELON. 

3^ pound sugar, 1 pound fruit, 

Ginger root. 

Cut off the rind, remove all the red part, and cut the rest in strips 
2 or 3 inches long ; boil until tender enough to pierce with a fork, 
remove from the water and drain a few moments. Have a sjTup 
ready, using onl}^ what water is necessary to dissolve the sugar, 
skim, add the melon and a few pieces of ginger root, cook a few 
moments and seal in cans while hot. 



FRUIT. 137 

JAMS. 

Cleanse the fruit carefully and bruise it well to prevent its hard- 
ening when cooked. Two methods for making are given. Allow 
equal proportions of sugar and fruit, mash thoroughly, and cook 
over a slow fire till it jellies. Or, allow three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar to one pound of fruit. Cook the mashed fruit fifteen or 
twenty minutes before adding the sugar, heated, and from ten to 
thirty minutes afterward. Stir sufficiently to prevent scorching, 
watching carefully. In making butter or marmalade the same 
proportions are used, but the fruit is cooked to a firmer consist- 
ency. Jams are made from the more juicy berries, such as black- 
berries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc. ; butters or marma- 
lades from the firmer fruits, such as apples, pineapples, oranges, 
peaches and apricots. All require the closest attention, as the 
slightest degree of burning ruins the flavor. Jam or marmalade is 
sufficiently cooked when no juice or moisture gathers about it, 
and it looks dry and glistening if dropped on a plate. Put up in 
glass or small stone jars, and seal or secure like canned fruits or 
jellies. Keep jellies and jams in a cool, dry, and dark place. 

APPLE BUTTER. 

Take ripe apples, crab apples give a fine flavor, put them in a 
preserving kettle, after cutting them in quarters, barely cover 
with water, boil soft, and strain through a sieve. To each 
pint of pulp add two-thirds of a pint of sugar, or 1 pint if the 
apples are very sour, and boil slowly for several hours until the 
mixture is firm. It must be stirred almost constantly to prevent 
burning. If any spice is desired use cinnamon. Put in stone jars 
or bowls, and when cold cover as for jelly. Or, strain oflF some of 
the juice for jelly, put the remainder of the apple through a sieve, 
and proceed as directed above. 

PUMPKIN BUTTER. 

Prepare 1 pumpkin ; cut it in small pieces, and stew till soft. 
Prepare 3 more pumpkins, stew, and strain through a coarse jelly 
bag; add the juice to the first pumpkin and boil 10 hours or 
more, until it is very thick, stirring often. 



138 FRUIT. 

RHUBARB BUTTER. 

Allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of peeled and chopped 
rhubarb ; let them simmer together gently for an hour, or more if 
the rhubard is old and tough. 

APPLE JAM. 

10 pounds apples, 3 lemons, juice, 

7 pounds sugar, 1 lemon, rind. 

Pare and slice the apples, boil all together slowly, stir, mash 
well, and cook until clear. 

BLACKBERRY AND APPLE JAM. 

2 quarts blackberries, 1 quart cooked apples, 

2 quarts sugar. 
Boil all together 20 minutes. 

CURRANT JAM. 

Pick from stems and wash thoroughly, put into a preserving ket- 
tle and boil 15 or 20 minutes, stirring often, and skimming; add 
sugar in the proportion of three-quarters of a pound to 1 pound 
fi'uit, or, by measure, 1 coffeecup to 1 pint mashed fruit ; boil 30 
minutes longer, stirring almost constantly. When done, pour in 
small jars or glasses, and seal ; or secure like jelly, by first pressing 
paper, cut to fit the glasses, on the fruit, and then larger papers, 
brushed on the inside with the white of egg^ whose edges turn 
down over the outside of the glass. 

The addition of 1 pound of raisins to each gallon of currant 
jam converts this into French jam. 

PINEAPPLE JAM. 

Grate pineapple, and to 1 pound of pulp add three-quarters of a 
pound of sugar. Boil 10 minutes. No water is required. 

RASPBERRY JAM 1. 

Make by itself, or, better, combine with currants in the propor- 
tion of one-third currants to two-thirds raspberries ; mash the fruit 
well, and proceed as in currant jam. 

Make blackberry jam like raspberry, except that it should not 
be mixed with currants. 

Strawberry jam is made exactly like blackberry jam. 

RASPBERRY JAM 2. 

Weigh the fruit and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 
1 pound of fruit. Mash together and let stand a few hours or 



FRUIT. 139 

over night in the cellar or ice-box. Drain off the juice, and when 
boiling hot, add the berries. Simmer until as thick as desired. 
Pour into jelly tumblers, or bowls, and when cold cover with but- 
tered paper. 

STRAWBERRY JAM. 

Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit, 
and 2 cups of red currant juice to every 4 pounds of berries if a 
tart flavor is liked. Put the berries in the preserving kettle, pour 
over the currant juice, and boil about 30 minutes, stirring almost 
constantly ; dip off most of the juice, add the sugar, and boil 30 
minutes more, skimming when necessary. Put in small jars or 
jelly glasses. Can the juice that is left over, or strain it for jelly. 

GREEN TOMATO JAM. 

Peel and slice green tomatoes, boil slowly 4 hours m a syrup 
made in the proportion of 1 pound sugar to 2 pounds tomatoes ; 
when done flavor with lemons. 

APPLE MARMALADE. 

Peel, quarter and core a large panful of tart apples, cover with 
water and cook till very soft. Squeeze the juice and pulp through 
a thin jelly bag; weigh, and allow three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar to 1 pound of pulp. Add a little gelatine dissolved in 
water, and let it boil steadily 20 minutes. 

CRAB APPLE AND PLUM MARMALADE. 

Cook the apples and plums separately, as for sauce, put through 
a sieve and measure each. Allow 3 pints of the apple pulp to 1 
of plum ; mix and weigh, adding 1 pound of sugar to each pound 
of pulp. Cook very slowly, stirring constantly to prevent scorch- 
ing, until very thick. The thicker the marmalade is the nicer it 
is, and the flavor of the combined fruit is delicious. 

CHERRY MARMALADE. 

This is best made of fine Morella cherries. Wash the cherries 
and put them on to stew with 1 gill of water to 1 pound of fruit. 
When perf ectl}^ tender pass them through a colander to extract the 
stones. To 1 pound of the pulp add 1 pound of sugar, and when 
the sugar is dissolved put over the fire, and boil to a smooth paste. 

GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE 1. 

Stew the berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve. 



140 FRUIT. 

return to the kettle, and add three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 
each pound of the pulped gooseberry; boil three-quarters of an 
hour, stirring constantly ; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as di- 
rected for currant jam. It will cook in the oven with less danger 
of scorching, and will not need as much care as if on the stove. 
The doors should be partly open. 

GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE 2. 

Top and tail the fruit, bruise it and cook till soft, stirring con- 
stantly. Rub through a sieve, and add to the pulp 4|- pounds of 
sugar to 6 pounds of the original weight of the fruit. Add the 
sugar gradually, and boil until firm. 

GRAPE MARMALADE. 

This is made of ripe or green grapes. After picking them from 
the stems and rinsing well, stew gently in a porcelain or granite 
kettle, for 10 minutes, in just enough water to keep them from 
sticking ; run them through a sieve or fine colander to remove the 
skins and seeds. To each pint of sifted pulp and juice, add three- 
fourths of a pint of sugar, and boil until of the consistency de- 
sired ; a large quantity will need to boil at least 2 hours. 

ORANGE MARMALADE. 

8 oranges, 4 quarts water, 

5 lemons, 8 pounds sugar. 

Slice the fruit, take out the seeds, add water and let stand 36 

hours ; then boil hard for 2 hours ; add the sugar and boil slowly 

1 hour or until it jellies. 

ORANGE MARMALADE, SCOTCH WAY. 

Slice the oranges very thin, taking out the seeds. To each 
pound of fruit, add 2 pints water. Let this stand 24 hours ; then 
boil until the chips are tender. Next day, weigh it, and to each 
pound add IJ pounds of lump sugar. Boil the whole until the 
sjrrup jellies, and the chips are clear. This will be in an hour. 
One dozen oranges makes about twenty pound pots of marmalade. 

PEACH MARMALADE 1. 

Take very ripe peaches, mash fine, put in a porcelain kettle 
until quite warm, strain through a colander, weigh, put back in the 
fettle, and allow three-fourths of a pound sugar to each pound 



FRUIT. 141 

fruit Stir well until the sugar is melted, boil fast 20 minutes, 
and put in small bowls. When cold, seal the same as jelly, 

PEACH MARMALADE 2. 

Choose ripe, well-flavored fruit. It is wise to make preserves at 
the same time, reserving for marmalade those that are soft. Boil 
the pits in the water with which the syrup is to be made. Pare and 
quarter the peaches and boil 30 minutes before adding sugar, stir- 
ring almost constantly from the time the peaches begin to cook ; 
add sugar in the proportion of three-fourths of a pound to 1 pound 
fruit, continue to boil and stir for an hour longer, and put up in 
jars, pressing paper over them as directed for jellies. 

PINEAPPLE MARMALADE. 

Prepare as for preserving, and continue cooking the pineapple 
pulp for half an hour, then strain it through a colander. Return 
to the fire and boil, stirring continually till it curls before the fin- 
ger, which is pushed through a little taken out to cool. Or, peel 
the pineapples and grate them, saving all the juice. The pulp and 
juice should then be weighed, and 1 pound of sugar added to every 
pound of pineapple. When the marmalade has boiled half an 
hour, test it by pushing the finger through a little which has been 
taken out to cool. If it is not done cook it longer. 

PLUM MARMALADE. 

Wash the fruit, and stew it with enough water to keep from 
scorching. Mash, and strain through a colander. To 1 pint of 
pulp add 1 pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, boil it 
till it is a smooth mass. Or, use plums left after straining off the 
juice for jell}-, and sift to remove stones and skins ; to 1 pint of 
pulp add one-half pound of sugar, and boil slowly, stirring well to 
prevent burning, until smooth and thick. 

QUINCE MARMALADE. 

Take quinces after making jelly, boil till soft, put through a 
colander, and to 1 pound of pulp add 1 pound of sugar. Boil till 
of the consistency desired. Canned or preserved quinces may also 
be used for marmalade by chopping fine, adding sugar if needed, 
and cooking till firm. 



142 



FRUIT. 



JELLIES. 

Jellies should be made from the best fruit, with granulated 
sugar, and cooked in a porcelain or granite kettle. Be careful to 
choose fruit that is barely ripe, otherwise the juice will not jelly- 
well, and will have a tendency to liquefy. Place the fruit in the 
kettle with just enough water to keep from burning, stir often, and 
let remain on the fire until thoroughly scalded ; a better bat slower 
method is to place it in a stone jar set within a kettle of tepid 
water, cook until the fruit is well softened, stirring frequently, and 
then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong, coarse 
flannel or cotton bag wrung out of hot water, after which let it 
drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, or strain through 
another bag to make it ver}'- clear. The larger fruits, such as ap- 
ples and quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed if at all 
defective, water added to just cover them, boiled gently until ten- 
der, turned into a bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, 
or over night. As a general rule, allow equal measures of juice 
and sugar. Boil juice ten minutes from the first moment of boil- 
ing, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer; or spread the 
sugar in a large earthen bowl, set in the oven, stir to prevent burn- 
ing, boil the juice ten minutes, skim if needed, add the hot sugar, 
let boil up once, and pour into jelly glasses immediately, as a thin 
skin forms over the surface which keeps out the air. To test 
jelly, drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immedi- 
ately falls to the bottom it is done ; or drop in a saucer, and set on 
ice or in a cool place ; if it does not spread, but remains rounded, 
it is finished. Set the glasses on a wet cloth and the boiling 
liquid can be poured into them without danger of breaking ; or, 
let the liquid run into them over a silver spoon standing in the jar 
or glass. When ready to put awaj^, cover with pieces of writing or 
tissue paper, cut to fit, and pressed closely over the jelly ; put on a 
cover of thicker paper, brushed over on the inside with the unbeaten 
white of an egg, and turned down on the outside of the glass. 
Keep in a drj^, cool, and dark place. Jelly needs more attention 
in damp, rainy seasons than in others. 

APPLE JELLY. 

Wash, quarter, and core tart, j uicy apples, and to 8 quarts quar- 



FRUIT. 143 

tered apples add 3 quarts water. Let them boil slowly until a 
mush, renewing the water as it boils away so that the dish is as 
full when the apples are done as it was at first. Strain through 
flannel, allowing it to drain thoroughly, but do not squeeze it. 
Add 1 pint of sugar to 1 pint of juice, and boil 20 minutes, skim- 
ming it well. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY. 

Wash and quarter large Siberian crabs, but do not core them, 
cover to the depth of 1 or 2 inches with cold water, and cook to a 
mush ; pour into a coarse cotton bag or strainer, and extract all 
the juice. Take a piece of cheese cloth or crinoline, wring out of 
water, spread it over a colander placed on a crock, and pour in the 
juice, allowing plenty of time to run through ; repeat this process, 
rinsing the cloth frequently. Allow the strained juice of 4 lemons 
to 1 peck of apples, and three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each 
pint of juice. Boil the juice from 10 to 20 minutes; while boil- 
ing sift in the sugar slowly, stirring constantly, and boil 5 minutes 
longer. This is generally sufficient, but it is always safer to ascer- 
t£tin whether it will jelly. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY AND MARMALADE. 

Have good, sound crab apples, not too ripe, cut out all defec- 
tive portions, wash, and to 8 quarts apples add 3 quarts water; 
boil slowly 1 hour, or till the fruit is quite soft, renewing the 
water that the apples may be covered when cooked. Strain 
through a jelly bag, but do not press with the hands, as only the 
clear juice is used for the jelly, and let it boil 10 or 15 minutes; 
then add the sugar, which has been heated in the oven, allowing 1 
pint of sugar to each pint of fruit, and boil 5 minutes longer. 
Or, press the pulp through a sieve to take out the cores and skins. 
To each pint of puip add 1 pint of sugar, and cook till of the con- 
sistency desired. 

BLACKBERRY JELLY 1. 

Squeeze the juice from the berries and strain it ; add an equal 
quantity of sugar, and boil hard 25 minutes, then pour into 
moulds. 



144 FRun: 

BLACKBERRY JELLY 2. 

4 pints blackberry juice, '% box gelatine, 

3 pints sugar. Water to dissolve gelatine. 

Dissolve the gelatine in the water, stir it into the juice, to which 
the sugar has been added, and boil 15 minutes. 

calf's feet jelly. 
3 calf's feet, 3^ pound loaf sugar, 

2 quarts water, 6 lemons, 

4 eggs, whites and shells. 
Cut the feet in small pieces, after they have been well cleaned 
and the hair taken off. Stew very gently in the water, until it is 
reduced to 1 quart. When cold, take off the fat, and remove the 
jelly from the sediment. Put it into a saucepan with the sugar, 
the lemons sliced, with the peel rubbed on the sugar, the whites of 
the eggs well beaten, and the shells broken. Set over the fire, but 
do not stir after it begins to warm. Let it boil 15 minutes after 
it comes to a head, then cover close, let stand half an hour, and 
pour it through a jell}^ bag until clear. Add more lemons or 
oranges to suit the taste. 

cherry jelly. 
Look over and pit sour, perfect, and juicy cherries. While heat- 
ing, mash them, strain through a jelly bag, measure juice, and add 
1 pint of sugar to every pint of juice. Simmer slowly until a scum 
rises ; skim, and boil 15 minutes. Dip into tumblers. Next day 
cover with white paper and fasten the edges with white of Q^'g. 

coffee jelly. 
^ box Cox's gelatine, 1 quart strong black coffee, 

yi cup cold water, Sugar. 

Soak the gelatine half an hour in the cold water. Heat the 
coffee to boiling point, sweeten to taste, add dissolved gelatine, 
stir well, strain into a mould rinsed with cold water just before 
using, set on ice or in a very cool place, and serve with cream or 
whipped cream. This jelly is very pretty, formed in a circular 
mould with a tube in the center ; when turned out fill the space in 
the center with whipped cream. 

CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Prepare juice as in general directions, add 1 pound sugar to 
every pint, boil and skim, and test ; rinse the glasses in cold water 



FRUIT. 145 

before pouring in the jelly. The pulp may be sweetened and used 
for sauce. Or, wash and boil sound berries to a pulp, with just 
enough water to prevent their burning. Pass them through a 
colander or a fruit strainer to remove the skins. Add an equal 
quantity of granulated sugar to the juice, and boil firm. Mould in 
individual dishes or in a large mould, after dipping in very cold 
water. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

Put the fruit into a stone jar, and set it in a kettle of tepid water 
over the fire. Heat gi'adually and let boil, closely covered, until 
the skins break. Pour the whole into a clean, stout muslin bag, 
and let it drip into a large earthen bowl or stone jar several hours 
or over night. It is best not to squeeze it, as it will not be so 
clear. To each pint of juice, allow 1 pound of sugar. Put the 
juice on to heat slowly, and let it boil 20 minutes. Meanwhile, 
heat the sugar in the oven, and put it into the boiling juice, where 
it will melt very quickly. Let the jelly just come to a boil and 
remove at once from the fire. Set the jelly glasses on a wet towel 
folded in 4 thicknesses, and fill with the liquid. If it does not 
seem firm enough when cool, set it in the sun. Boiling jelly 
darkens it. Other small fruit jellies are made in the same way. 
Strawberry jelly is improved by lemon juice. Cover closely and 
keep in a cool, dark place. 

CURRANT JELLY WITHOUT COOKING. 

Pick from stems and wash, being very careful that no water is 
left on them. Press out the juice and strain it. To every pint 
allow 1 pound fine white sugar ; stir well together until the sugar 
is dissolved, pour in cans, seal and set them in the hot sun for 2 or 
3 days. Or, prepare the juice, and set it in a cool place in the cel- 
lar for 24 hours. The froth that will cover the surface at the end 
of that time must be removed, and the juice strained through a 
jelly bag, then weighed, and an equal weight of powdered sugar 
added. Stir constantly till the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, 
pour into jars, and cover tightly. A transparent jelly of fine 
flavor, which will keep well, will be found at the end of 24 hours. 

ECONOMICAL JELLY. 

Cook a gallon jar of sound, clean apple parings in enough water 



146 FRUIT. 

tx) make 6 teacups of juice when the parings are soft. Strain the 
juice, bring it to a boil and skim it ; then add 3 cups sugar, and 
boil the jelly till it is of the proper consistency. 

ELDERBERRY AND GRAPE JELLY. 
4 pounds ripe elderberries, Sugar, 

4 pounds green or partially ripe grapes. 
Mash the fruit and put it into a porcelain kettle, add one-half 
cup water, and boil until soft. Strain through a jelly bag, meas- 
ure the juice, return it to the fire and boil 30 minutes ; add an 
equal quantity of sugar, boil 5 or 10 minutes longer, pour into 
glasses, and seal when cool. 

FOUR-FRUIT JELLY. 

Take equal quantities of strawberries, raspberries, currants, and 
red cherries, stoned, adding the juice that escaped in stoning. 
Mix the fruit together, put it into a linen bag, and squeeze thor- 
oughly ; when it has ceased to drip, measure, and to 1 pint of juice 
allow 1 pound and 2 ounces of sugar. Mix the juice and sugar 
together ; put into a preserving kettle, and boil half an hour, skim- 
ming frequently. Try the jelly by holding a spoonful in the open 
air; if it congeals readily it is sufficiently done. 

GOOSEBERRY JELLY. 

4 pounds unripe gooseberries, Sugar, 

2 quarts water, K box gelatine. 

Cook the gooseberries in the water, strain through a jelly bag, 
allow 1 pint sugar to each pint of juice, add the sugar, and gela- 
tine dissolved in water, and boil all together 15 or 20 minutes. 

GRAPE JELLY. 

This may be made from grapes in all degrees of ripeness, that 
from green grapes having a peculiarly delicate flavor and fine color. 
Stew as for marmalade, then pour off the juice, and strain through 
a flannel cloth, not squeezing or pressing it any, as particles of 
pulp give the jelly a cloudy appearance. To each pint of clear 
juice, add 1 i)int of sugar, and boil 20 minutes. Set the glasses 
on a wet towel and fill with the jelly. 

FOX GRAPE JELLY. 

Take green fox grapes, wash, and put in a preserving kettle with 
just water enough to pulp them. When tender, mash and strain 
through a cloth. To each pint of the juice add 1 pound of sugar, 



FRUIT. 147 

and 1 teaspoon powdered gum arable dissolved in warm water. 
When the sugar has dissolved, stir it well, and place the kettle 
over the fire. Let it boil 15 or 20 minutes, and try it. Pour 
it into the glasses while warm, and let itstand till next day before 
covering. 

SPICED GRAPE JELLY. 

1 quart grape juice, 2 tablespoons cinnamon, 

1 quart sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves. 

Crush the juice from half ripe grapes, and strain it. Use the 

ingredients in the above proportions, and cook hard 20 minutes ; 

remove from the fire and pour into glasses. 

LEMON JELLY. 
%, box gelatine, 1 pint boiling water, 

Yt pint cold water, V/z cups sugar, 

3 lemons, juice. 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 hour, add the boiling 
water, sugar, and juice of lemons ; let stand on the stove till boil- 
ing, strain into moulds and set in a cool place till ready to serve. 
The addition of a few thin slices of lemon a few moments before 
straining improves the flavor. 

ORANGE JELLY. 

9 oranges, juice, 4 ounces gelatine, 

3 lemons, juice, 1 pound sugar, 

1 Q^%^ white, 2 quarts water. 

Soak the gelatine in 1 pint of the water, boil the rest with the 
sugar, skim well, add the dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon 
juice, and beaten ^^g ; let come to a boil, skim, cook until it 
jellies, and pour into a mould. 

PEACH JELLY. 

Pare, pit and slice the peaches and place them in a jar. Crack 
one-third of the pits and add them to the peaches. Heat in a ket- 
tle of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is well 
broken. Strain, and to each pint of juice add the juice of 1 
lemon, and measure again. Allow 1 pound sugar to each pint 
juice, heat it very hot, and add to the juice when it has boiled 20 
minutes. Let it come to a boil again, and take from the fire at 
once. This is recommended for jelly cake. 



148 FRUIT. 

PINEAPPLE JELLY. 

)4 b<5x gelatine, 1 pint boiling water, 

}i pint cold water, 13^ cups sugar, 

1 can pineapple. 
Soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 hour; add the boiling 
water, sugar, and the pineapple reduced to a pulp. Bring to a 
boil, strain into a mould, and set on ice to cool. Wrap a cloth 
dipped in hot water around the mould for a few moments, when 
ready for use, and it will slip out easily. 

PLUM JELLY AND MARMALADE. 

If the plums are wild, sprinkle with soda and pour hot water 
over them, let stand a few moments and stir them ; take out, and 
put on to cook with water enough to cover them, — if the plums are 
very juicy less water will be required — boil till soft, strain through 
a jelly bag, but avoid squeezing. Measure, and boil 10 or 15 
minutes; add sugar, allowing 1 pint of sugar to each pint of juice, 
and boil. Test by dropping a little in a saucer and setting it on 
ice. If the plums are the cultivated wild ones, it is not necessary 
to use soda. Press the pulp through a sieve to take out the pits 
and skins. Allow pint for pint, of sugar and pulp. Boil the lat- 
ter half an hour, add the sugar, and boil 10 or 15 minutes longer. 
Half a pint of sugar to a pint of pulp makes a rich marmalade. 

Plum-apple jelly may be made by preparing the juice of apples 
and plums as above; a nice proportion is 1 part plums to 2 parts 
apples ; mix the juice and finish. A bushel of apples and 1 peck 
of plums make 40 pints of jelly, part crab apple alone and part 
mixed, and 1 6 quart jars of mixed marmalade. In making either 
kind of jellj^ the fruit may be squeezed and the juice strained twice 
through ^ p ".. ■) muslin or crinoline, and made into jelly. The pulp 
can not then be used for marmalade. 

QUINCE JELLY. 

Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small 
pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with 
the fruit, and boil until very soft ; make a three-cornered flannel 
bag, pour in the fruit and drain, occasionally pressing on the top 
and sides to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to 
press hard enough to expel the pulp. There is not much need of 



FRUIT. 149 

pressing a bag made in this shape, as the weight of the fruit in the 
larger part causes the juice to flow freely at the point. To 1 pint 
of juice add 1 pint of sugar, and boil until it jellies ; pour into 
tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general directions. If 
qmnces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good, 
tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and 
the quinces may be saved for preserves. 

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JELLY. 

If currants are used with red raspberries in equal parts, the jelly 
will be firmer and the flavor will be very delicate. Look the fruit 
over carefully, wash and mash the currants, and place together in 
an oven that is hot enough to extract the juice. Stir well, strain 
without squeezing through a jelly bag. Measure and set the juice 
on to boil. Put the sugar in the oven in shallow pans to heat, al- 
lowing equal measure of juice and sugar. When the juice has 
boiled 20 minutes, add the sugar, and stir rapidly till thoroughly 
dissolved ; let it come to a boil, take from the fire at once, and 
pour into jelly glasses 

RHUBARB JELLY. 

Wash the stalks well, cut into small pieces, put them into a pre- 
serving kettle with water to cover them, and boil to a soft pulp ; 
strain through a jelly bag. To each pint of juice add a pound of 
sugar ; boil, skim, and when it jellies pour into jars. After the 
juice has been prepared, the juice of 1 lemon may be added to 
each 3 pints of rhubarb juice, and half the rind boiled in it for a 
few moments. 

RHUBARB AND APPLE JELLY. 

Cut the rhubarb in small pieces and cook over a slow fire, with- 
out adding any water ; pare, quarter and cook good, sour apples in 
a very little water ; strain the juice from both, measure, and boil 
20 minutes. Heat the sugar in the oven, allowing three-fourths 
of a pint to each pint of juice ; add it to the juice, and boil 10 or 
15 minutes longer. Pour into glasses, and set it in the sun for a 
few hours. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY. 

Prepare the berries, put into a jar, and set into a kettle contain- 
ing lukewarm water. Cover and boil till the juice is expressed. 



150 



FRUIT. 



Drain through a bag, measure, and boil ; allow 1 pound of sugar 
to 1 pint of juice, and heat the sugar in the oven. When the 
juice has boiled 20 minutes, add the hot sugar, boil together thor- 
oughly, and pour into glasses. 

TOMATO JELLY. 

Break ripe tomatoes into pieces and stew them in as little water 
as will keep them from burning. Pour into a jelly bag, and when 
the juice has run through add 1 pound of sugar to each pound of 
the juice. Return to the stove and boil until it jellies. Serve 
with roast meat 

PRESEKVES. 

Until the modern method of canning was introduced, all fruit 
kept for instant use was prepared with an equal weight of sugar, 
and was called preserves. Genuine preserves are made by the old 
rule, a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Make a hot syrup by 
adding a little water to the sugar, and letting it boil. JJ neces- 
sary to clarify it, add just before it boils the white of an egg 
beaten lightly with two tablespoons of water ; as it begins to boil, 
skim carefully and repeat the process until] no more scum arises 
add the fruit and cook slowly until tender. Peaches, pears, and 
quinces should be pared and halved. Small fruits should be put 
directly into the boiling syrup, and when cooked, carefully skimmed 
out, to avoid breaking. Boil down the syi'up, if there is a larger 
quantity than needed, and pour over the fruit. Let the preserv- 
ing kettle be of porcelain or granite ware, use granulated sugar, 
and select perfect fruit, fresh, and just reaching a ripe condition. 
Cover the fruit when cooked, but do not set away until cold. 
When preserves are candied, set the jar in a kettle of cold water, 
and boil for an hour ; or, empty them into a crock kept for that pur- 
pose, set into the oven and boil a few minutes, watching carefully 
to prevent burning. When specks of mould appear, take off care- 
fully, and scald the preserves. 

APPLE PRESERVE. 

Take three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of apples ; 
make a syrup of the sugar and water, skim, add a few apples at a 
time, cook until they are transparent, and place in a jar. When 



FRUIT. 151 

all are done, boil the syrup until thick, pour boiling hot over the 
apples, and cover closel3\ Well-flavored fruit, not easily broken in 
cooking, should be used. Bruised ginger-root or a sliced lemon 
may be added to the boiling syrup. 

CHERRY PRESERVE 1. 

Weigh the stoned cherries, and allow 10 pounds sugar to 12 
pounds fruit. Add the sugar to the fruit, and let stand over night. 
Then drain off the juice, boil it till it begins to thicken, add the 
cherries, and cook till thick. Keep the preserve in stone jars 
covered with buttered paper, and tie two layers of paper over them. 

CHERRY PRESERVE 2. 

Choose sour ones, — the early Richmond is good — stone them, 
and allow an amount of sugar equal to the fruit; take half the 
sugar, sprinkle over the fruit, let stand 1 hour, pour into a pre- 
serving kettle, boil slowly 10 minutes, skim out the cherries, add 
the rest of the sugar to the syrup, boil, skim, and pour over the. 
cherries ; the next day drain off the syrup, boil, skim if neces 
sary, add the cherries, boil 20 minutes, and seal up in small jars. 

CITRON PRESERVE. 

Pare, seed, cut in thin slices 2 inches long, weigh, and put in a 
preserving kettle with water to cover ; boil 1 hour, take out the 
melon, and to the water add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of melon ; 
boil until thick, replace the melon, with 2 sliced lemons to each 
pound of fruit ; boil 20 minutes, take out, boil the syrup until very 
thick, and pour it over the fruit. 

PRESERVED CITRON, ORANGE AND LEMON PEEL. 

Soak in salt and water over night, freshen in 3 waters and boil 
till tender. Make a syrup of 1 pint of water to 1 pound of sugar, 
and boil the peel in it half an hour. It may be cut in fine strips 
before cooking. 

CANDIED CITRON PEEL. 

Harden them in brine 1 week. Freshen 1 week, changing the 
water every day. Cut in quarters and scrape out the pulp. Peel, 
and boil in alum water till tender. Freshen over night. Allow 
half a pound of sugar to 1 pound of rind ; cook till soft, and dry 
in the sun, letting it absorb all the syrup. The syrup may be 
flavored with lemon. 



152 FRUIT. 

ELDERBERRY PRESERVE. 

Use in the proportions of 1 pound berries, 1 pound sugar, and 
1 lemon, juice and grated rind. Make a syrup, using the lemon, 
and as little water as possible. Skim if necessary, add the berries 
and cook 20 minutes. Strain out the berries into jari or glasses, 
boil the syrup to a jelly and pour over the fruit as much as the jar 
will hold. In 24 hours cover. If an open-mouthed receptacle, 
without a cover, is used, lay on a piece of thin paper and tie over 
the jar a cloth or thick paper cover. 

CITRON AND QUINCE PRESERVES. 

Pare and cut the citron into small pieces, boil hard in alum 
water half an hour, drain, and boil in fresh water till tender. 
Pare and core the quinces, and cut them into 8 pieces. Boil the 
parings and cores 1^ half hours in water sufficient to cover them ; 
strain off the liquid and cook the prepared quinces in it till nearly 
tender, add the citron, and to each pound of fruit add three- 
fourths pound of sugar. Boil till clear. 

FIG PRESERVE. 

Gather the fi'uit when f ullj^ ripe, but not cracked open ; place in 
a perfoi:ated tin bucket or wire basket, and dip for a moment into 
a deep kettle of hot and moderately strong lye or let them lie 1 
hour in lime water, and afterwards drain ; make a syrup in the pro- 
portion of 1 pound of sugar to 1 of fruit, and when the figs are 
drained, add them to the syrup and cook well, remove, boil down 
the syrup leaving only enough to cover the fruit. Boil all to- 
gether 1 minute, and seal while hot in glass or porcelain jars. 

GRAPE PRESERVE. 

Pick the grapes from the stems, pop the pulps from the skins, 
doing 2 at a time, 1 in each hand between the thumb and fore- 
finger. Put the pulp in a porcelain kettle and stew gently until 
the seeds are loosened ; then strain and rub it through a sieve, 
weigh it with the skins, and to every pound allow 1 pound of sugar. 
Put the skins and juice in a kettle, cover closely, and cook slowly 
until the skins are tender ; while still boiling add the sugar and 
move the kettle back, as it must not boil again ; keep very hot for 
15 minutes, then, if the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour the 
fruit into cans, and screw down the covers as soon as possible. 



FRUIT. 153 

PRESERVED GRAPES IN BUNCHES. 

Take out the seeds with a pin, breaking the bunches as little a& 
possible ; boil some clarified sugar until nearly ready to "candy " ; 
add grapes to cover the bottom of the pan, without laying them 
on each other, and boil 5 minutes to extract the juice ; lay them 
in an earthen pan and pour the syrup over them ; cover with paper, 
and the next day boil the syrup for 5 minutes, skimming it well ; 
put in the grapes, let them boil 1 minute and pour them into pots. 

ORANGE PRESERVE. 

Allow equal weights of fruit and sugar. Pare one-half the 
oranges and cut the peel into shreds. Grate the yellow rind from 
the remaining oranges, remove the white inner skin and throw it 
away. Separate all the oranges into quarters, remove seeds, cut 
or chop into small pieces, drain off all the juice that leaves the 
fruit without pressing it, and pour it over the sugar. Unless the 
oranges are very juicy, a little water will be needed for the syrup. 
Place it over the fire, boil for 5 or 6 minutes, skim, add the shreded 
peel and cook 10 minutes, then the grated peel and chopped pulp, 
and boil 20 minutes. Put into jars and seal when cold. 

PEACH PRESERVE. 

Take any fine peaches that do not mash readily in cooking, pare 
carefully and remove the pits ; take sugar equal in weight to the 
fruit, or if to be sealed, three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 pound 
of fruit, and a half pint of water to each pound of sugar. Boil pits in 
the water, adding more as it evaporates, to keep the proportion good ; 
remove the pits, add the sugar, clarify, and when the scum ceases 
to rise, add the fruit, a small quantity at a time ; cook slowly 
about 10 minutes, skim out into a jar, add more, and repeat until 
all are done, and then pour the boiling syrup over all. The next 
day drain off and boil the syrup a few minutes, and pour back, re- 
peating daily until the fruit looks clear. Two or three time is gen- 
erally sufficient. The last time put up the preserves in small jars, 
and secure with paper as directed for jellies. If to be sealed in 
cans, the first boiling is sufficient, after which put into cans and 
seal immediately. The latter plan is preferable, as it takes x€ss 
trouble and less sugar, while the natural flavor of the fruit is bet- 
ter retained. Many think pench preserv^es much nicer if made 



154 FBUIT. 

with maple sugar. Clingstone peaches are preserved in the same 
way whole, except that they must be put on in clear water and 
boiled whole until so tender that they may be pierced with a silver 
fork before adding the sugar. 

PEAR PRESERVE. 

Pare, cut in halves, core and weigh ; if hard, boil in water until 
tender, and use it for the syrup ; allow three-fourths of a pound of 
sugar for each pound of fruit, boil a few moments, skim, and cool ; 
when lukewarm add the pears, and boil gently until the syrup has 
penetrated them and they look clear ; some of the pieces will cook be- 
fore the rest, and must be removed; when done, take out, boil 
down the syrup a little and pour over them ; a few cloves stuck here 
and there in the pears add a pleasant flavor. Put in jars with 
glass or tin tops, and seal with putty, or plaster of Paris. A very 
nice preserve is made of pears and quinces, in the proportion of 
one-third quince to two-thirds pear. 

, PINEAPPLE PRESERVE. 

The most delicious way of preserving a pineapple is in its own 
juice without using one drop of water to make the syrup. Peel 
carefully the requisite number, weigh them, and allow three-fourths 
of a pound of sugar to every pound of pineapple. Put the pineap- 
ples in a huge earthen bowl or in a stone crock, and scatter the sugar 
over them. Cover, and let them stand for 24 hours. A clear juice 
will nearly cover them then. Now take each pineapple and tear 
the pulp off the core, using a silver fork. Drain off the juice from 
the pulp and sugar into a preserving kettle. Let it boil 5 minutes, 
then skim, and strain it through a fine strainer over the pineap- 
ple pulp. Let the pulp boil up in the syrup once, then can it im- 
mediately, as longer boiling darkens the preserves. 

PLUM PRESERVE 1. 

For each pound of fruit allow three-fourths pound of sugar, put 
them into a stone jar or pan in alternate layers and set in a moder- 
ately warm oven for several hours, or all night if prepared at tea 
time. Drain the juice from the plums, boil and skim it. Remove 
the plums carefully to jars or cans ; pour over them the boiHng 
hot syrup and seal at once. It is well to prick the plums with a 
coarse needle after washing. 



FRUIT. 155 

PLUM PRESERVE 2. 

Allow equal weights of plums and sugar. Add 1 pint of water to 
2 pounds of sugar, boil the syrup, skim it, and drop in the plums 
a few at a time, after having pricked them with a coarse needle. 
Boil gently 20 minutes, remove the plums with a skimmer, put in 
jars, cover with the syrup and when cold screw on the tops, or 
cover with paper. 

PLUM SWEETMEATS. 

Select ripe damson plums, peel, stone, and halve them ; let them 
cook in their own juice until sufficiently soft to rub them through 
a sieve. Make sweet with sugar ; if spice is desired add cinnamon, 
return to the fire, cook until tender, fill the jars and seal im- 
mediately. 

QUINCE AND APPLE PRESERVE. 

Take equal weights of quinces and sugar, pare, core, leave whole 
or cut in pieces, boil till tender in water enough to cover, take out 
carefully, lay on a platter, add the sugar to the water, put in the 
fruit and boil slowly till clear, place in jars and pour the syrup over 
them. To increase the quantity without adding sugar, take one- 
half or two-thirds in weight as many fair sweet apples as there are 
quinces, pare, quarter, and core ; after removing the quinces, put 
the apples into the syrup, and boil until red and clear, and ten- 
der ; place the quinces and apples in a jar in alternate la3^ers, and 
cover with syrup. For the use of parings and cores, see recipe for 
Quince Jelly. Apples alone may be preserved in the same way. 

QUINCE PRESERVE. 

Pare and core quinces, cut in quarters or eighths, measure, and 
to each quart add 2 oranges, or 1 lemon, sliced thin. Mix to- 
gether and steam until tender, but avoid breaking. Boil the skins 
and cores slowly for 2 hours in water enough to cover them. 
When the water thickens, strain, and add sugar, allowing 1 pound 
to each pound of fruit. Make a syrup, add the fruit, and simmer 
1 hour over a slow fire. Put into cans and seal. 

RHUBARB PRESERVE. 

Peel and slice the rhubarb and weigh it. Put it in a porcelain 
kettle and place it where it will heat very graduall}'- until the juice 
flows freely. No water should be added. Then bring forward on 



156 FRUIT. 

the stove and stew gently half an hour. Dip out half the juice, 
and keep it warm. Add to the cooked fruit half a pound of sugar 
to each pound of rhubarb, with 1 teaspoon cloves and 2 teaspoons 
cinnamon. Stir well, and cook till almost as thick as jam. 
Should it be too thick, reduce with a little of the warm juice. 
Pour into glass jars, screw on the tops closely, and when cool wrap 
in thick paper and keep in a cool, dry place. 

STRAWBERRY PRESERVE. 

Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of straw- 
berries. Put fruit and sugar in the preserving kettle in alternate 
layers. After sufficient juice settles to cook them, set it on the 
stove, heat, and boil slowly 10 minutes. Fill stone or glass jars 
and seal. 

TOMATO PRESERVE. 

Scald and peel carefully, small, perfectly formed tomatoes, not 
too ripe, — the yellow, pear-shaped ones are best — prick with a 
needle to prevent bursting, add an equal amount of sugar by 
weight, let them stand all night, then pour the juice into a preserv- 
ing kettle, and boil until it is a thick syrup, clarifying with the 
white of an egg ; add tomatoes, and boil carefully until they look 
transparent. A piece or two of ginger-root, or 1 lemon to a pound 
of fruit, sliced thin and cooked with the fruit, may be added. 

UNIQUE PRESERVE. 

Gather young cucumbers, 4 inches ki length, and lay in strong 
brine one week ; wash, and soak them a day and night in clear 
water, changing 4 times ; line a bell-metal kettle with vine leaves, 
and lay in the cucumbers with a little alum scattered among them ; 
fill up with clear water and cover with vine leaves, then with a 
close lid, and green as for pickles. Do not boil them. When 
well greened, drop into icewater ; when perfectly cold, wipe, and 
with a small knife slit down one side ; dig out the seeds and stuff 
with a mixture of chopped citron and seedless raisins. Sew up 
the incisions with a fine thread, weigh them, and make a S}Tup, al- 
lowing 1 pound of sugar for every pound of cucumbers, and a pint 
of water ; heat to a lively boil, skim and drop in the cucumbers ; 
simmer half an hour ; take out and spread on a dish in the sun, 
boil down the syrup with a few slices of ginger-root ; when thick 



FRUIT SAUCE. 157 

put in the cucumbers again ; simmer 5 minutes, and put in glass 
jars, tying them up when cold. 

WATERMELON PRESERVE. 

Pare off the outside green rind, cut in pieces 2 inches long, 
weigh, throw into cold water, skim out, add 1 heaping teaspoon 
each of salt and pulverized alum to 2 gallons of rinds, let stand 
until the salt and alum dissolve, fill the kettle with cold water, and 
place on top of the stove, where it will slowly come to the boiling 
point, covering with a large plate to keep under the rinds ; bc^il 
until they can be easily pierced with a fork, drain them from the 
water, and put into a syrup previously prepared as follows : Bruise 
and tie in a muslin bag 4 ounces ginger-root, and boil in 2 or 3 
pints of water until it is strongly flavored. At the same time boil 
in a little water until tender, in another pan, 3 or 4 sliced lemons ; 
allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of rind, dis- 
solve the sugar in the water in which lemons and ginger have been 
boiled, having first strained it, adding more hot water if necessary ; 
add the rinds and slices of lemon to this and boil slowly half to 
three-quarters of an hour. Citrons may be prepared in the same 
way, by paring, coring and slicing, or cutting into fanciful shapes 
with tin cutters made for the purpose. 

FRUIT SAUCES. 

These are made from fresh or dried fruits, and are delicious or 
abominable, according to the way in which they are prepared. 

The most desirable utensils for the slow, steady cooking neces- 
sary to produce the best results, are pipkins of potter}', or stone- 
ware. Handled carefully the}^ will last a long time. The best of 
them are made from the same material used for fire brick, and will 
last as long as a porcelain-lined kettle. Pipkins of soft, unglazed 
earthenware are much less expensive than the hard ones, but they 
cannot be placed on the hottest part of the stove without danger of 
cracking. They can be used to cook stewed fruits in the oven for 
a long time, and a two-quart pipkin costs but ten cents. The 
unglazed pipkin ordinarily comes with covers, but a plate or tin 
cover must be used with the other kind. 

Apples, of any tart variety, and pears, are finer flavored, and 



158 FRUIT SAUCE. 

keep better form when cooked in a pipkin in an oven than in any 
other way. The apples, if large, should be quartered as well as 
pared, and to a two-quart pipkin nearly full add one cup of sugar, 
and one cup of water. Cover, and cook slowly for an hour. Test 
with a straw, and if tender enough to be pierced, and clear, they 
are done, and their shape should be perfect. If pears are very 
sweet, add less sugar ; the}^ may need cooking longer than apples. 

Since canned fruit has become so generally used, it is to be re- 
gretted that much less attention has been paid to drying fruit, 
since the flavor of many fruits is better preserved b}'' drying than 
in any other way. All fruit for drying must be perfect, of the 
best quality, and thoroughly ripe. When dry, put up in jars and 
cover closely, or in paper bags. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box 
lined with paper, are secure against moths. The secret of keeping 
dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dry and cool 
place. 

To stew dried fruits : Wash the fruit carefully, put in a pipkin, 
or covered earthenware dish, and barel}^ cover with cold water. 
Let the fruit soak in a cool place several hours, or over night. In 
the morning set it on the stove, and let it come slowly to the boil- 
ing point. When this is reached put the pipkin where the fruit 
will merely simmer three or four hours. It must be covered all 
the time. An hour before it is taken up, add to about half a 
pound of fruit a cup of sugar. If there is too much liquid, set 
the jar where the heat will be suflScient to slowly boil down the 
juice to the desired quantity, or till its contents become a rich 
marmalade. If properly cooked no flavoring is needed. 

Prunes are delicious cooked in the foregoing fashion, and the 
little acid prunella is exceedingly good. Prunellas, however, re- 
quire much more sugar than prunes. There is an acid flavor about 
them which is delicious in the spring, when the appetite flags and 
sweet things are cloying to the taste. 

APPLE SAUCE 1. 

Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do not come to pieces 
easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plenty of sugar. 
Clover close, and stew 1 hour or more. The addition of the sugar 



FRUIT SAUCE. 159 

at first preserves the pieces whole. If preferred soft, put through 
a sieve, and add the sugar. 

Or, make a rich syrup, and when it boils drop in the halves of 
firm, round apples sufficient to cover the bottom of the pan. Stew 
slowl}^, and when the pieces are tender, remove to a dish, adding 
fresh pieces if any are left. If much syrup remains boil down to 
the amount needed, pour over the apples, and serve cold. 

APPLE SAUCE — 2. 

Pare, core and quarter tart apples, and fill a pudding dish with 
alternate layers of apples and sugar ; pour on a little water, cover 
closely, and cook them in the oven or over a slow fire. Or, pare, 
core and slice 4 large, tart apples, cook with a very little water, 
and when tender add 1 cup of sugar, and a little extract of winter- 
green. 

DRIED-APPLE SAUCE 1. 

Put in a preserving kettle 1 quart of washed dried apples, with 
twice their bulk of water. Soak them 10 or 12 hours, add sugar 
to taste, and stew soft. Flavor with orange, lemon, or spices. 

DRIED-APPLE SAUCE — 2. 

Look over, wash thoroughly in clean, warm water ; drain, cover 
with cold soft water, place on the back of the stove, cook slowly 
4 or 5 hours, mash fine, sift, sweeten, and season with cinnamon. 
Never add sugar until a short time before removing from the 
stove, otherwise the fruit will be toughened and hardened. Follow 
the same directions in preparing dried peaches, only do not mash, 
or season highly. Cook in a porcelain kettle without stirring. A 
few raisins improve both apple and peach sauce. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 

Pick over and wash the cranberries. Add half a cup of water 
to 1 quart of berries. Cover, and cook over a slow fire. Stir fre- 
quently, and mash the fruit. When all are mashed, and the pulp 
smooth, take from the fire and add suojar to taste. Dissolve the 
sugar and pour into a mould wet with cold water. Or, put through 
a coarse sieve before filling the mould. 

GREEN CURRANT SAUCE. 

Stem them carefully, wash, and cook in a very little water, as 
they are quite juicy. When they begin to boil, add sugar gener- 
ously, and cook 5 minutes longer. Serve cold. 



160 FRUIT. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

AMBROSIA. 

6 sweet oranges, 1 grated pineapple, 

Powdered sugar, 1 grated cocoanut. 

Peel, slice and seed the oranges, taking out as much of the core 

as possible, pare and remove the eyes from the pineapple before 

grating, and fill a dish with alternated layers of orange, pineapple 

and cocoanut, sprinkling sugar over each. Or, use 6 oranges, 6 

lemons and 2 cocoanuts, or only oranges and cocoanuts. 

BAKED APPLES 1. 

Cut out the blossom and stem ends of tart apples, fill with sugar, 
bake till soft, and serve warm or cold. Or, pare and core tart 
apples ; lay them in an earthen dish with a very little water. Fill 
the cavity of each apple with sugar, a bit of butter, a slice of lemon 
or a sprinkling of cinnamon. Cover and bake slowly 1 hour. 
Serve with plain or whipped cream. Use 1 cup sugar, 1 table- 
spoon butter, 1 cup water, to 3 pints apples. If sweet apples are 
used, bake twice as long, and omit the cinnamon, using half the 
quantity of sugar. 

BAKED APPLES 2. 

Wash and prick the skins of nice, sweet apples. Place in a pan 
with a very little water. B^ ke 2 hours in a moderate oven, bast- 
ing with the juice 2 or 3 tines. Sprinkle with a little sugar 15 
minutes before taking from the oven. Let them remain covered 
until cold, and serve with cream. 

BAKED APPLES, PEACHES OR PEARS. 

Wipe the fruit, and put into a jar with sugar between the layers, 
covering them with cold water. Bake 3 or 4 hours closely cov- 
ered in a slow oven. Add half the quantity of water and sugar to 
sweet apples. If the pears are large bake 5 or 6 hours, and they 
may be flavored with stick cinnamon, or lemons cut in slices, or 
both. Pare peaches before baking them. 

APPLE COMPOTE 1. 

Select apples that will cook well without breaking ; pare, core, 
and cook till three-fourths done in a S3'rup made with 1 pound 
sugar and 1 pint water. Skim out of the syrup and put in a hot 
oven for a few minutes ; boil the syrup while the apples are in the 



FRUIT. 161 

oven ; then dip each apple in the syrup, place in a nice dish, and 
pour the syrup over them. Cover with a meringue and brown 
slightly. Or, serve cold, with cream or custard. 

APPLE COMPOTE 2. 

1 pound pared and cored apples, }i box gelatine, 

% pound sugar, Whipped cream. 

Make a syrup of the sugar with enough water to dissolve it. 
When it comes to a boil put in the fruit and cook until clear but 
whole. Remove from the fire to a glass bowl. Have the gelatine 
ready, dissolved in half a cup of hot water, stir at once into the hot 
sjTup, and strain it over the apples. When cold, heap whipped 
cream over it. Sliced lemons may be added to the syrup, and a 
slice of the lemon served on each apple. 

FRIED APPLES. 

Quarter and core apples without paring ; heat the frying pan with 
butter in it and lay the apples in the pan, skin side down, sprinkle 
with a little sugar, and, when nearly done, turn and brown thor- 
oughly. Or, cut in slices across the core, and fry like pancakes, 
turning when brown. Serve with sugar sprinkled over them. 

ICED APPLES. 

Pare and core 12 large apples, fill with sugar and a little butter 
and nutmeg ; bake until nearly done, let cool, and remove to an- 
other plate, if it can be done without breaking them ; if not, pour 
off the juice, cover them with icing, and brown lightly. Serve with 
cream. 

JELLIED APPLES. 

Pare, core and slice 8 sour apples, and put them in layers into 
an earthen baking dish, with brown sugar and cinnamon. Allow 
at least 1 large cup sugar and 4 tablespoons water to the apples. 
Cover with a buttered plate and bake very slowly 2 or 3 hours. 
Let it stand until cold. When turned out it should be a firm mass, 
with the red slices showing through the clear jelly. 

FRIED BANANAS. 

Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, sprinkle with sugar, and 
«»erve. The bananas must be ripe, but firm, and the red variety is 
preferable. 




IGE GREAM 
AND ICES. 



THIS "perfection of summer refreshment" is peculiarly an 
American delicacy, though attainable in some form all over 
Europe. 

The two divisions of ice cream are the American, or Philadel- 
phian, and Neapolitan ; the former is more of a cream, the latter 
partakes of the nature of a custard. 

The essentials for making good ice cream are the best cream, 
ripe, juic}^ fruit, when fruit is used, and granulated sugar. What 
is called "double" cream, or that skimmed from milk after stand- 
ing twenty hours, should be used, as it whips without any waste. 
Cream from milk standing one-half the time is called "single," 
and is preferable for coffee. 

Milk is frequently used in cheaper or fancy creams with eggs, 
cornstarch, arrow-root or gelatine. A difference of opinion exists 
as to heating the cream, some claiming that the raw cream has a 
harsh taste, is more likely to turn, and does not freeze smoothly. 
Add the flavoring after the first freezing. As freezing increases 
the bulk of the composition, do not have the freezer more than 
three-quarters full. 

When eggs are to be substituted for cream, increase ine amount 
of sugar used, in the proportion of one-half cup to six eggs. Too 
much sugar hinders freezing. The eggs must be perfectly fresh or 
the cream is injured. Add a little salt or grated lemon peel to 
the milk to correct its flat taste. Never cook fruit flavors with 
cream. To avoid acidity or a fermented taste, use onl}?- perfect, 
ripe, fresh fruit. The genuine flavors, though expensive, are eco- 
nomical, as it requires very little to be effective. 

General directions for freezing : Use the best freezer, and have 
all things in readiness. Allow ten pounds of ice and two quarts 
of rock salt to a gallon freezer. Put the ice in a coffee sack and 

162 



ICE CREAM. 163 

pound very fine for the first freezing. Set the cylinder in the tub, 
and pour in the cream, which should be very cold. Cover, and 
turn the crank to see if it works right. Put in ice to the depth of 
three inches, then one inch of salt, and fill the tub with alternate 
layers, finishing with a layer of ice. Turn the crank slowly and 
steadily, but do not freeze the cream too fast. In twenty or thirty 
minutes unscrew the crank, wipe off the cover, and remove the 
dasher. Scrape down the cream from the sides with a broad 
knife, a wooden one is best, and beat hard several minutes. This 
makes the cream smooth. Replace the cover, plug the dasher 
hole, taking great care that no salt creeps in. Drain off the water 
and repack with coarser ice and salt. Cover with a thick piece of 
carpet and set away in a cool place. Or, pack in moulds, and 
place in pails filled with layers of salt and ice. Cover and set 
away. Wrap a hot cloth around the mould for a few moments 
and the cream will turn out readily. Should the ice in the tub 
melt rapidly while freezing, drain off the water, add more ice and 
salt, see that it is packed solidly, and continue the work of freez- 
ing. If any cream or ice is left in the freezer, pour it out into 
porcelain-lined pans, and keep in a cold place to use again. 

Great care should be used in keeping the freezer sweet and 
clean. 

ICE CREAM — 1. 
t quarts cream, 1 pound sugar, 

Flavoring. 
This is the regular proportion for pure ice cream, and all creams 
made on this basis, without milk or eggs, are called Philadelphia 
creams. It may be frozen without heating, or the cream may be 
heated in a double boiler. Sift in the sugar when the water boils. 
Cool and freeze, add the flavoring just before freezing and pack- 
ing. In all the recipes, follow the general directions for freezing 
and packing, unless others are given. 

ICE CREAM — 2 

J. pint cream, % pound sugar, 

1 pint milk, 3 eggs, 

Flavoring. 

Scald the milk, and add the sugar beaten with the eggs, or 

the yolks of eggs and 1 white. Beat thoroughly together, strain, 



164 ICE CREAM. 

add the cream, and cook until it thickens, stirring constantly. 
Cool, flavor and freeze. Or, beat the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 table- 
spoon cornstarch or arrow-root with the sugar, and add to the 
milk. Strain and cook. When smoothly thickened, remove and 
cool. Whip the whites, beat into the cream, and add to the com- 
position, with the flavoring, when it is ready to freeze. This recipe 
requires more flavoring than pure cream. 

ICE CREAM — 3. 

1 pint milk, 1 saltspoon salt, 

1 quart cream, 1 tablespoon flavoring, 

3 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 

2 eggs. 

Scald the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, flour, and 1 
cup of sugar together till light, and then turn into the milk. Stir 
constantly till thickened, and then occasionally. Cook 20 min- 
utes. When cold add the second cup of sugar, the cream and the 
flavoring, strain into the freezer and freeze. 

ICE CREAM WITHOUT A FREEZER. 

1 quart milk, 13^ pounds sugar, 

13^ quarts cream, 8 eggs. 

Make a custard of the above ingredients, according to directions 
for Custard Ice Cream, adding the beaten whites of eggs, the 
cream and vanilla just before freezing. Chill the mixture, pour 
into a pail with a tightly-fitting cover, and place on a flat block of 
ice 2 inches thick on the bottom of the packing pail or tub. Pack 
in pounded ice and salt, ice 2 parts, salt 1 part. Beat the cream 
in the freezer 5 minutes. Put on the top, cover with thick cloths 
and turn steadily until the water begins to rise. Uncover, scrape 
the cream thoroughly from the bottom and sides of the pail and 
beat until the custard is a smooth, half-frozen paste. Cover, drain 
off the brine, fill up the tub with ice and salt, and repeat the 
former process. Continue in this way until the cream is frozen. 
At the last opening see that the cream is higher in the center than 
at the sides. Put on the cover, ice, salt, and an old thick 
blanket, and leave it some hours, replenishing with ice and salt, 
and draining off the water when necessary. All creams frozen in 
this manner should be partly custard. 



ICE CREAM. 165 

BANANA ICE CREAM. 

3 quarts cream, 1}4 pounds sugar, 

3 tablespoons gelatine, 6 large bananas, 

Lemon juice. 

Heat 1 quart of cream, add the sugar, and gelatine ; stir till 

dissolved, and strain. When cool stir in the bananas, thoroughly 

mashed or chopped fine, and the lemon juice, then freeze. Or, 

substitute 1 quart of milk and 4 eggs for 1 quart of cream, cook 

the custard till it thickens and proceed as with full cream recipe. 

BISQUE ICE CREAM. 

3 quarts cream, 2 ounces macaroons, 

1 pound sugar, 2 ounces kisses, 

4 lady fingers, 3 teaspoons vanilla. 

Roll very fine, or crush and sift through a sieve, the kisses, lady 
fingers and macaroons. Heat 1 quart of cream in a double boiler, 
then add the sugar, stirring until dissolved. Remove from the 
fire and cool. Add the rest of the cream, put into the freezer, and 
when nearly stiff, stir in the sifted cakes and vanilla. A richer 
coloring is given by adding 2 teaspoons caramel. Beat until 
smooth, and follow directions for freezing and packing. The 
cream must stand at least 2 hours before using. This makes one 
gallon of cream when frozen. 

BOSTON BROWN-BREAD ICE CREAM. 

2 quarts cream, 13^ pounds sugar, 

10 eggs, ^ pound brown bread. 

Roll and sift the dried toasted bread. Put 1 quart of cream 
into a custard-kettle, heat, and add the sugar and well-beaten eggs. 
Strain, and stir constantly until it thickens smoothly. Remove 
from the fire, add the remainder of the cream, cool and freeze. 
When nearly frozen beat in the powdered bread, and finish accord- 
ing to general directions. The eggs and one-half pound of sugar 
may be omitted. Biscuit Cream is made by substituting three- 
quarters of a pound of stale sponge cake for the bread. 

CARAMEL ICE CREAM. 

Make a foundation as for Ice Cream — 3. Put 1 scant cup of 
sugar into a frying pan and stir over the fire till the sugar turns 
liquid and brown, add this to the hot custard, in place of 1 cup of 
sugar. 



166 ICE CREAM. 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM 1. 

2 quarts cream, IX pounds sugar, 

1 pint milk, yi pound grated chocolate, 

Vanilla. 
Use the unsweetened chocolate. Heat the milk and make a 
smooth paste with the chocolate. Add the sugar, mix thoroughly 
with the cream, flavor, and freeze according to directions. Or, 
scrape 2 ounces of Baker's chocolate, and cook till smooth and 
glossy with 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 of boiling water. Add this 
to the custard or cream while in the double boiler. When cold, 
add 1 tablespoon vanilla. 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM 2. 

1 quart rich cream, 3 eggs, 

1 pint new milk, 1 pound sugar, 

6 tablespoons grated chocolate. 

Scald the milk, and add the sugar, the eggs well beaten, and the 
chocolate rubbed smooth in a little milk. Beat well, place over 
the fire and heat until it thickens a little, stirring constantly, 
strain, add a tablespoon thin, dissolved gelatine, and, when cold, 
place in the freezer ; when half frozen add the cream, well whipped, 
and finish. 

To make a block of chocolate and vanilla : freeze the creams 
separately, and before packing fill a mould with two or three layers 
of cream according to taste. Pack the mould in ice and salt, and 
let it stand at least 2 hours. 

COFFEE ICE CREAM 1. 

2 quarts cream, 1 pound sugar, 

yi pound ground Java and Mocha coffee. 
Put into a double boiler 1 quart of cream and the coffee. Let 
it stand 15 minutes in hot, not boiling water, strain and squeeze 
to obtain the strength, and stir in the sugar. When cold, add the 
rest of the cream and freeze. 

COFFEE ICE CREAM 2. 

1 quart cream, \% pounds sugar, 

1 quart milk, 8 eggs, 

1 quart strong, clear, hot coffee. 
Heat the milk, and add the sugar and beaten eggs, ( 8 yolks and 
2 whites may be used) strain, add coffee, cook till thick, and cool. 
Add the cream just before freezing. 



ICE CREAM. 



167 



SHERBETS. 

1 pint fruit juice, 1 pound sugar, 

1 pint water, 3 eggs, whites. 

These proportions are good for all varieties of fruit juices, and 
man}'- nice combinations may be made. Currant sherbet is im- 
proved by adding raspberries in equal proportions. In lemon or 
orange sherbets soak the grated rinds of the fruit 10 minutes, in 
the boiling water to be used for syrup, and strain over the sugar. 
Prepare as for ices, and freeze according to directions. Ices or 
sherbets are used in layers with ice cream in moulds, and are con- 
sidered excellent. In making orange sherbet the lemons may be 
omitted 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET. 

1 quart grated pineapple pulp, IX pounds sugar, 

2 lemons, juice, 1 pint water, 

2 eggs, whites. 
Dissolve the sugar and bring to a boil, skim if not clear, and 
cool. Add to the pulp when cold, stir in the lemon juice, and 
freeze. Beat the whites of eggs thoroughly, and add to the Jce 
when nearly frozen. The lemon juice may be omitted. 







THE flesh of animals, poultry and game goes under the general 
term meat. In some localities the steak of large fish is 
erroneously classed under that name. Meats are made up of sev- 
eral substances — fibrine, gelatine, fat, albumen,andthe juice of flesh. 
The real color of fibrine is white, taking its pinkish tinge from 
the blood. This goes to form the fiber and muscle of meat, and is 
made hard and tough by hard boiling, but is soluble in a moderate heat. 
Therefore, if meat has strong and tough fiber, put it on in boiling 
water, place the kettle where it will simmer, and boil gently for a 
long time. In this way the toughest meat may be made tender 
and palatable. Plunging into boiling water at first closes the tis- 
sues and keeps in the juices of the meat. Grelatine is found in the 
bones, tendons, gristle, skin, sinews, and about the joints. Soak 
the parts from which it is to be removed in cold water, and then 
boil very gently for five or six hours, or until the meat is tender. 
Remove all bones and meat by straining ; set where it will cool, 
when the fat will be found at the top, and the gelatine in a jelly- 
like mass at the bottom. This is useful for preparing jellied 
meats, sauces, sausages, meat loaves, meat cheeses, and pressed 
meats of every kind ; or, warmed up properly with a spoonful of 
rice, a little milk, salted and flavored, it is good food for invalids. 

The fat of meats gives warmth, and is an appropriate food for 
a cold climate. In temperate regions it should be used sparingly. 
The fat that comes out when cooking meat should be saved by 
itself. That of pork makes lard, and by careful and sufficient cook- 
ing may be kept any length of time. That from beef is tallow, 
and may be used in small quantities with lard nicely rendered, as 
drippings. 

The juices of meat may be obtained by chopping the raw meat, 
inclosing in a jar, placing in cold water, and gradually raising the 
temperature until the water gently boils. This juice is used in 

168 



MEATS. ;J^g9 

making teas and in extracts of meat. When meats are cooked for 
the meat itself, they should be so quickly heated at first as to 
close the tissues, and keep in the juices ; but when used for soups 
or teas they may be very gradually heated to bring out the juices. 

Young animals are tender, and do not need so much cooking, 
but their meat is not as nutritious as that of older ones. 

Meats are always in season, though it were better to use the fat- 
ter meats in cooler, and leaner meats in warmer weather. Do not 
put meat directly upon the ice, or allow it to lie wrapped in 
butcher's paper. Take care of it when it first comes to the house, 
and, if there is a bloody piece about it, remove it. Lay it on a cool 
dish, and if to be kept some time, lay bits of charcoal about it, and 
place over ice in a cooler, as recommended for fish. Meat may be 
kept a long time in cold weather if care is taken, and it is much 
less expensive to buy a large quantity than to buy by the piece. 

Broiling is the most wholesome method of cooking meats, and 
very acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is made more tender by 
pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but some of the juices are 
lost by the operation; cutting it across in small squares with a 
sharp knife on both sides is best. Tough meats are improved by 
lying two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons 
each of vinegar and salad oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt, 
and turning every twenty minutes. The action of the oil and vine- 
gar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim off all 
superfluous fat, but never wash a freshly cut steak. Never salt or 
pepper steak or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, dip 
in melted butter. Turn steaks with a small pair of tongs, as 
piercing with a fork frees the meat juices. 

Frying is properly cooking in fat enough to cover the article, 
and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, the food is crisped 
at the surface, and does not absorb the fat. The process of cook- 
ing in just enough fat to prevent sticking has not yet been named 
in English, and is sauteing, but is popularly known as frying, and 
ought to be banished from all civilized kitchens. The secret of 
success in frying is what the French call the "surprise." The 
fire must be hot enough to sear the surface and make it impervious 
to the fat, and at the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon 



170 MEATS. 

4$ the inojit is browned by this sudtion .'ipi^liontion of hcjit, tlie 
pjin iiiMV bo niovod to a cooler place on the ntove, that the process 
may be linishcii more slowly. 

BEEF. 

Reef should have a good outside hiyer of fat, and be well mar- 
bled witli fat. The llesh should also be llrm, of a bright red color, 
and the suet dry, ami easily broken with the lingers. In buving 
a (piarter of beef for immediate use, give the preference to a Iiind 
(piarter. The fore (puirter is cheai)er, and contains, besides tho 
roasting and boiling pieces, ipiilt' a good many pieces that nuiy be 
corned, and kept; but it has less steak and thick pieces than tho 
hind (piarter. If a housekeeper has a butcher on whom to rel}^ 
it wouUl be an invaluable lesson to go to his shoj), observe tho 
meat as it is cut and Si)rtctl, learn the dilferent parts, and how to 
distinguish between them. Better pay him for the teaching, than 
to pay for sirloin, and get round steak. The tirst cut of sirloin is 
tho end of the muscle, and not apt to be very tender. The second 
cut contains more of the tenderloin and is considered the best steak. 
The best pieces for roasting are the sirloin, tenderloin, and rib 
pieces. The sixth, seventh and eighth ribs are the best. It is well 
in a rib roast to have the bones t.jUven out, and tlio roast rolled and 
tied b}' the butcher. IMcat that is desired rare should have a very 
hot oven at llrst, and small pieces rcipiire a hot oven to prevent dry- 
ing. For a large ran* roast allow tiMi minutes to the pound, and a 
longer time for one better done. The (irst strong heat of the oven 
sears the meat, and keeps the juices inside; by lessening the heat 
afterward the inside is ctH)ked without any burning of the surface. 
A double iron pan is particularly nicc^ for all roasting purposes. 

The gravy of roast meats is found in the dripping pan, under 
the fat, and should be poured carefully olf and saved. Tf no 
water has been used in roasting, stoi'k will need to be added, as 
onl}' the fat will be fountl in the i)an ; but if water has been used, 
it will be meat-flavored enough to add water to make a sulllcient 
quantity. If not brown enough, brown tlour in tlie oven and rub 
sm(H)th with a. little butter, add to the gravy, and boil up slowly. 
Add salt and i)opper. If it. should prove lumpy, for any reason, 



MEATS. 171 

it should be strained through a wire strainer. Twice the quantity 
of gravy needed should be made, as it is most useful in warming 
over the cold meats. Never serve a white gravy, however well 
made, with roast meat, nor should it be so brown as to have a 
burned taste. 

BEEFSTEAK BROILED — 1. 

Broiling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting break- 
fast or dinner ; every other dish should be ready for the table, so 
that this may have undivided attention. A steel gridiron with 
slender bars is best, as the common broad, flat iron bars fry and 
scorch the meat, imparting a disagreeable flavor. The dampers 
which shut off the draft to the chimney should be thrown open to 
take the flames in that direction. Lift the broiler from the fire 
before removing the lid, as the smoke and flames rush out past the 
meat and smoke it. Place the steak on a well-greased gridiron, 
turn often so that the outside may be seared at once ; when done, 
which will require from 5 to 10 minutes, lay it on a hot platter, sea- 
son with salt, pepper, and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter, 
and serve at once. If the fat drips on the coals below, the blaze 
may be extinguished by sprinkling with salt ; withdraw the grid- 
iron to prevent the steak from acquiring a smoky flavor. Always 
have a brisk fire, whether broiling in a patent broiler directly over 
the fire or on a gridiron over a bed of live coals. 

Or, lay a thick, tender steak upon a well-greased gridiron over 
hot coals ; when done on one side have ready the warmed platter 
with a little butter on it, lay the steak, without pressing it, upon 
the platter with the cooked side down so that the juices which have 
gathered may run on the platter, quickly place it again on the 
gridiron, and cook the other side. When done, place on the platter 
again, spread lightly with butter, season with salt and pepper, and 
set it where it will keep warm, for a few moments, but do not let 
the butter become oily. Serve on hot plates. It may be garnished 
with fried sliced potatoes, or with browned potato balls the size 
of a marble, piled at each end of the platter. 

BEEFSTEAK BROILED 2. 

Remove the fat and bone. Grease the gridiron with the fat and 
lay on the steak. Broil over a clean fire, turning often. If liked 



172 MEATS. 

rare, broil fi'om 3 to 5 minutes, or longer if it is to be well done. 
Serve on a hot platter ; add butter, salt, pepper, and cover for a few 
minutes with a hot cover. This is for steali an inch thick. If 
cooked through, a red juice follows the fork. If blood follows of 
a dark red color the stealv is i-aw. If tJie steak is tough, pound 
with a steak pounder or hack with a sharp knife, but in this case 
the outside must be quickly seared over or the juices will be lost. 

BEEFSTEAK FRIED. 

'\Yhen the means to broil are not at hand, heat the frying pan 
very hot, put in a steak previously hacked, let it remain a few 
moments, loosen with a knife and turn quickl}' several times ; re- 
peat this, and when done ti*ansfer to a hot platter; add salt, 
pepper, and bits of butter ; pile the stealvs one on top of an- 
other, and cover with a hot platter. This way of frjing is both 
healthful and delicate. Or, heat the skillet, ti-im off the fat from 
the steak, cut in small bits and set on to fry ; meanwhile pound 
the steak, draw the bits of suet to one side and put in the steak, 
turn quickly several times so as to seai* the outside, take out on 
a hot platter previously prepared with salt and pepper, dredge 
well with floiu', return to the skillet, repeating the operation until 
the steak is done ; lay on a hot platter, covering with another one, 
and place where it will keep hot while making the gi'avy. Stir a 
tablespoon dr}' flour in the skillet, being sure to have the fat boil- 
ing hot, brown, free from lumps, (the bits of suet may be left in, 
di'awing them to one side until the flour is browned), pour in half 
a pint of boiling water, milk, or cream, stir well, season with pep- 
per and salt, and serve in a gi*avy tureen. Spread bits of butter 
over the steak and send it to the table at once. This is more 
economical, but not so wholesome as broiling. 

BEEFSTEAK WITH OYSTERS. 

Cook the liquor of half a pint of oysters 2 minutes, skim well, 
add the oysters and boil 2 minutes, add 2 tablespoons cracker, 
rolled fine and smoothed with an equal amount of butter. Broil a 
nice steak carefull}-, la}" it in a deep dish, adding salt, pepper, and 
butter, and pour the 03'sters over it. Serve with nice, brown, but- 
tered toast and a glass of cranbeny jelly. 



MEATS. 173 

BEEFSTEAK WITH TOMATOES. 

10 tomatoes, or 1 pound can, Yz pint beef stock, 

1 rolled cracker, 1 onion. 

Pare and stew the tomatoes with the onion in the beef stock 1 
hour, and add the cracker, with salt and pepper. Broil a nice 
steak carefully, add butter, salt, pepper, and lay in a hot, deep 
platter. Pour the boiling sauce over the steak, and serve hot, 
with short cakes just from the oven. The onion and cracker may 
be omitted from the sauce. 

CORNED BEEF, BOILED. 

Soak over night if very salt, but if beef is young and properly 
corned this is not necessary; pour over it cold water enough to 
cover it well, after washing off the salt. The rule for boiling 
meats is 25 minutes to a pound, but corned beef should be placed 
on a part of the stove or range where it will simmer, not boil, un- 
interruptedly from 4 to 6 hours, according to the size of the piece. 
If to be served cold, let the meat remain in the liquor until cold. 
Tough beef should remain in the liquor until the next day, and 
be brought to the boiling point j ust before serving. Simmer a brisket 
or plate-piece until the bones are easily removed, fold over, form- 
ing a square or oblong piece, place sufficient weight on top to press 
the parts closely together, and set where it will become cold. This 
gives a firm, solid piece to cut in slices, and is a delightful relish. 
Boil the liquor down, remove the fat, season with pepper or sweet 
herbs, and save it to pour over finely-minced scraps and pieces of 
beef; press the meat firmly into a mould, add the liquor, and 
place over it a close cover with a weight upon it. When turned 
from the mould, garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery, and serve 
with fancy pickles or French mustard. 

FRESH BEEF, BOILED. 

Wipe well, and if rib pieces, the bones may be removed and a 
close roll made by tying with strong twine. Plunge into boiling 
water, enough to cover it, skim when it boils, and cook very slowly 
until tender. Do not salt until half an hour before it is cooked. 
The rule for boiling beef is 25 minutes to the pound and 25 min- 
utes extra, but one must be governed by the age and quality of 
the beef. After the beef is removed, boil the water quickly to 1 



174 MEATS. 

quart of liquid. Set self-sealing glass jars on a thick wet cloth, 
fill with the boiling liquor, put on the rubber, two if the can is old, 
and screw the top down quickly. Set away in a cool, dark place, 
and use as stock for gravy or soup. 

FILLET OF BEEF. 

Remove all veins and tough portions, with most of the fat. Rub 
well with salt, pepper and flour. On the bottom of the dripping 
pan place the pieces of fat, and a slice or two of fat salt pork. 
Have a hot oven and bake nearly 40 minutes. Take out and baste 
thoroughly. Sift cracker crumbs over it, and lay on several bits 
of butter. Return it to the oven, brown quickly and remove. 
Make the gravy as in directions for brown gravy, and to a portion 
of it add fried mushrooms, and serve with the roast. Garnish 
with nasturtium leaves and bloom. A stuflBing may be made as for 
turkey, and baked separately, often basted with the meat gravy. 

BEEF HEART, BOILED. 

Prepare the same as for beef tongue. To flavor the heart, or 
prepare it for pressed meat, boil a half pound salt pork with it, 
and add spices and pepper to taste when it is chopped. To make 
into mince pies boil with the pork and chop both, or salt and boil 
alone. 

BEEF HEART, STUFFED. 

Take a beef, sheep or calf's heart, wash thoroughly to remove 
all blood, make the two cells into one by cutting through the par- 
tition with a long, sharp knife, being careful not to cut through to 
the outside ; fill the cavity with a stuflSng made as for roast turkey, 
cover with greased paper or cloth to secure it in place, and bake 
2 hours or longer, in a deep pan with plenty of water, basting and 
turning often, as the upper part particularly is apt to get dry. 
While the heart is roasting, put the valves or " deaf ears," which 
must be cut off after washing, into a saucepan, with a pint of cold 
water and a sliced onion. Let simmer slowly 1 hour; melt a 
tablespoon butter, add a tablespoon flour, then the strained liquor 
from valves, boil up and serve as gravy. 

BEEF LOAF. 

One of the cheapest meats for breakfast or tea, as well as one of 
the nicest, is a beef loaf. Buy 4 or 5 pounds of the cheapest 



MEATS. 275 

pieces of beef, such as neck or rib pieces — those that are usually 
sold for a stew, but pieces without much bone, — if a larger loaf is 
desired a beef's heart may be added. Wash and cover with boil- 
ing water, and add a pound of salt pork, not too fat. Care must 
be taken that every scrap put into the kettle is perfectly clean and 
untainted, and scraps of steak or roast beef may be added. Let 
it come to a boil and skim, even the third time, if necessary. Put 
where it will just simmer all day. Remove, chop, and pick out all 
hard pieces and bones. Add 6 crackers and, a little at a time, the 
liquor in which it was boiled until it is a thick mass. It may not 
take all the liquor. Add salt and pepper to taste. Butter a deep 
bread tin and pack the meat in solidly. Place in the oven and let 
stay 10 minutes, or until heated through. Set in a cold place. 
When partly cool if not solid enough put on a pressure. To serve, 
loosen from the edges of the pan, hold in boiling water for a min- 
ute or two, turn out, and slice with a sharp knife from the end. 
If for breakfast, and potatoes are to be served, make a brown 
gravy with the liquor that may have been left. 

This recipe may be varied to suit the meat in quantity and kind. 
If the meat is quite fat, or contains a good deal of gelatine, it may 
take more crackers. If very lean, as it would be if made wholly 
of heart and the pork, less crackers should be used. Other meats, 
as veal, pork, lamb, etc., may be used in this way and are very 
nice. If liver is added to it, first scald it and turn the water off. 
Cut it into small pieces and put into the kettle 30 minutes before 
removing from the fire. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

In a piece of the rump, cut deep openings with a sharp knife ; 
put in pieces of pork, cut into dice, previously rolled in pepper, 
salt, cloves and nutmeg. Into an iron stewpan lay pieces of pork, 
sliced onions, slices of lemon, one or two carrots, and a bay leaf ; 
lay the meat on and put over it a piece of bread crust as large as 
the hand, one-half glass currant jelly, lemon juice, and afterwards 
an equal quantity of water or broth, till the meat is half covered ; 
cover the dish close and cook till tender. Then take it out, rub 
the gravy thoroughly through a sieve, skim off the fat, add sour 
cream, return to the stewpan and cook ten minutes. Instead of 



176 MEATS. 

cream, capers or sliced cucumber pickles may be added to the 
gravy, or a handful of grated gingerbread or rye bread. The meat 
may also be laid for some days before cooking in spiced vinegar. 

RAGOUT OF BEEF. 

6 pounds round, 6 cloves, 

y^ pound salt pork, 1 stick cinnamon, 

6 ripe tomatoes, Whole black peppers, 

2 or 3 onions, Yz cup vinegar. 

Cut the tomatoes and onions into a kettle or pan having a 
closely fitting cover, and add the spices ; gash the meat, stuff with 
the fat salt pork, cut into square bits, place it on the other ingre- 
dients, and pour over them the juice of a lemon and a cup of 
water ; cover tightly, and bake in a moderate oven ; cook slowly 4 
or 5 hours, and, when half done, salt to taste. When cooked, 
take out the meat, strain the gravy and thicken with flour. 

BEEP ROAST. 

Take a rib piece or loin roast of 7 to 8 pounds. Beat it thor- 
oughly all over, lay it in the roasting dish and baste it with melted 
butter. Put into the well-heated oven, and baste frequently 
with its own fat, which will make it brown and tender. If, when 
it is cooking fast, the gravy is growing too brown, turn a glass of 
boiling water into the bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often 
as the gravy cooks away. The roast needs nearly two hours time 
for cooking, and must be brown outside but inside red and juicy. 
Season with salt and pepper. Serve with brown gravy and garnish 
with sliced lemons. 

BEEP ROA^T WITH PUDDING. 

Roast beef as directed ; make a Yorkshire pudding, to eat with 
the roast, as follows : 

Yorkshire Pudding. 
1 pint milk, 3 cups flour, 

Pinch of salt, 3 eggs. 

Beat to a smooth batter, and pour into the dripping pan under 
the meat, or into a hot pan with some of the drippings from the 
beef which is roasting, and bake 30 minutes. Cut in squares and 
serve on the platter with the roast. 



MEATS. 177 

RIB ROAST. 

Remove the ribs and backbone. Roll up smoothly and as 
closely as possible, the butcher will do this if asked, wind tightly 
with twine, and roast as sirloin, except that it will take a little 
longer to the pound. The potatoes may be browned in the pan 
with the beef. Serve with brown gravy in which a little parsley 
has boiled. Garnish with parsley and sliced blood-beet pickles. 

THE RUMP ROAST. 

Many prefer this roast to the other pieces as it is cheaper, all 
good and comes in better shape. It is excellent cold. Rub well 
with pepper and flour. When the flour in the pan is browned pour 
in a pint of water, and baste often. If a soft stewing sound comes 
from the oven it is doing well, but if the fat sizzles and snaps 
the water is out and the fat burning. If the whole rump is used 
carve it lengthwise. Many prefer the gravy when an onion or two 
has been roasted with the beef. Salt at the last basting. 

SIRLOIN OP BEEP ROASTED. 

Procure 8 pounds of the second cut of sirloin. No washing is 
necessary if the butcher is neat in handling it. Trim off all un- 
sightly pieces and bits of gristle and wipe carefully with a wet 
cloth. Tie and skewer it into the shape to serve on the table. 
The flank piece may be cut off and left in the pan or saved for 
soup or stock. Use a large dripping pan. Lay the meat skin side 
down on a rack, or three or four sticks laid crosswise in the pan. 
Rub it well with flour. Have a quick fire to sear the cut sides of 
the meat, and when the flour on the bottom of the pan is brown 
the heat is great enough and may be gradually reduced. Many 
add a pint of hot water at this point to avoid so much basting. 
Baste often by dipping the fat and gravy from the pan over the 
meat. If the beef is liked very rare, an hour of steady baking 
after it is seared will be suflScient, but if well done, keep in a slow 
steady heat a half hour longer. There is much danger of burning 
the fat in the pan if the water is not added ; it will need constant 
watching, and great care must be given the fire. When nearly 
done turn and brown the under side and place skin side up on the 
platter. Carve by cutting thin slices parallel with the ribs, and 
by running the knife down the backbone to separate the slices. If 



178 MEATS. 

some prefer the tenderloin, remove it from under the bone and slice 
in the same manner. Serve with mashed or browned potatoes, 
brown sauce or gravy. The meat may be made more attractive by 
a garnish of celery leaves and bunches of barberries. 

ROUND OF BEEF SPICED. 

20 pounds round, 1 ounce cloves, 

1 quart salt, 3 ounces saltpetre, 

1 nutmeg, }i ounce allspice. 

Rub the salts and spices together until fine. Rub the beef well 
with this powder after removing the bone. Put a part of the 
powder into a tub just large enough to hold the meat. Lay the 
beef on it and pour over it the rest of the powder. Rub it well 
every day for ten daj^s. Wash the beef and bind it up compactly 
with a tape and fill in all spaces with pieces of suet. Lay in a pan 
of convenient size and drop bits of suet over it. Sprinkle with 3 
ounces brown sugar, 1 tablespoon pepper, 1 ounce powdered mace, 
and add 1 pint of water, with the juice of a lemon. Cover closely 
and simmer 7 or 8 hours, adding water as it boils dry. 

BEEF SMOTHERED. 

Use 4 pounds of rump, or other thick roasting piece. Sear 
quickly on a hot frying pan or in a very hot oven. Put into a stew- 
kettle with 1|- cups of boiling water. Cover closely and put where 
it will just boil. Watch that the water does not boil awa}^, or the 
meat will burn. Cook until tender, or about 3 hours. Add salt 
15 minutes before taking up. Remove the meat carefully to a 
hot platter. Add more water to the gravy, if necessary, and thicken 
with 1 tablespoon flour smoothed in bu ^.r. Serve the gravy in 
a boat. 



MEATS. 179 

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 

It has been said that wasting is carried on so far and so exten- 
sively in American kitchens that it will soon be one of the com- 
mon sciences, also, that the food thrown away by Americans would 
feed comfortably the French people. Granted the last statement to 
be exaggerated, the fact remains that the national habit is one of 
great prodigality in the use and waste of cooked and uncooked 
food. The following recipes suggest one means of improvement. 

DRIED BEEF. 

Slice it very thin, put in a frying pan with water to cover, let it 
just boil, pour off the water, and add a pint of milk, a lump of 
butter, and a thickening of a little flour and milk ; stir well, and 
just before serving, add an egg, stirring it in quickly; or, chip 
very fine, freshen, add a lump of butter, 6 or 8 eggs, stir well, and 
serve at once. Cold, boiled or baked beef may be sliced and 
cooked in the same way. When ends or thin pieces of dried beef 
become dry and hard, put in cold water and boil slowly 6 or 8 
hours, and slice when cold ; or, soak over night in cold water, and 
boil 3 or 4 hours. Many think all dried beef is improved by this 
method. 

BEEFSTEAK STUFFED. 

This is nice for dinner, and can be prepared from a rather poor 
flank or round steak ; pound it well, season with salt and pepper, 
spread with a nice dressing, roll up and tie closely with twine, put 
in a kettle with 1 quart boiling water, boil slowly 1 hour, take out 
and place in a dripping pan ; add the water in which it was boiled, 
baste frequently until a nice brown, and make a gravy of the drip- 
pings ; or, put it at once into the dripping pan, skewer 2 slices of 
salt pork on the top, add a very little water, baste frequently, and, 
if it bakes too rapidly, cover with a dripping pan. 

CROQUETTES. 

Croquettes are made of meat or fowl previously cooked. They 
are dropped in boiling lard like fritters, and the easiest method is 
to lay them in a wire basket and plunge them for 5 or 10 minutes 
into the hot fat. They must be light, crisp and brown, but not 
greasy. It is better to make the day before using, and when 
'./anted lay them in a hot oven on a thick, soft paper. Flat cakes, 



180 MEATS. 

called balls, browned nicely on both sides, are a species of cro- 
quettes, and may be cooked in boiling lard, instead of frying in a 
pan. After the croquette mixture is prepared, then comes the 
moulding into round and long rolls, say 1 by 2|- inches. Have 
convenient to the moulding board, a saucer of flour, one of beaten 
egg, and a bowl of sifted bread crumbs. Let the hands be well 
floured. Take 1 tablespoon of the prepared meat, roll it between 
the palms of the hands into the required shape ; if too thin they 
will break in frying. Dip them first into the egg, then the bread 
crumbs, being careful that they are well covered. Lay on a plat- 
ter, separated from each other, and place them in a cold place for 
1 hour at least. Then put them into a fr3ang basket, and plunge 
into the boiling lard. When a golden brown, take out and lay on 
a clean paper in the mouth of the oven to dry. Garnish chicken 
croquettes with fried parsley, or stick a sprig of parsley or celery 
into one end. Lobster croquettes may be garnished with lettuce, 
or cress, or slices of lemon. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES 1. 

1 cooked chicken, Cream, 

2 eggs, Celery, 
Salt and pepper, Parsley. 

Pound, or chop the meat very fine, add a little minced celery 
and parsley, and chopped oj^sters if liked ; season with salt and 
pepper, moisten with cream or grav}^, mix with the beaten eggs, 
and make into long balls. Egg and crumb, and boil in lard. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES 2. 

1 chicken, H pound butter, 

}4 cup cream, 1 tablespoon flour, 

3^ cup broth, 2 eggs, yolks. 

Salt and pepper. 
Stew a three-pound chicken in a very little water flavored with 
parsley, celery, and onion, if the taste is liked. When done, cool, 
and chop very fine. Rub the butter and flour together, cook in a 
custard kettle, add the cream and broth. Boil till well thickened, 
take oflf the fire, add pepper and salt, and the chicken. Mix well, 
and stir in slowly the well-beaten eggs. Cook uncovered a few 
minutes, stirring constantly. Take out to cool and shape into 
rolls. Beat the yolk of 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of cream, dip the 



MEATS. 181 

rolls in this and then in sifted bread crumbs, and after standing 1 
hour, boil in lard. These are improved by adding a little nutmeg 
and lemon juice just before taking from the fire. 

Veal may be substituted for chicken in this and the previous 
recipe, and many consider turkey better than chicken. 

MEAT CAKES. 

Scraps of meat, as steak, roast, etc. , may be chopped fine, patted 
into cakes an inch thick, and broiled over a quick fire ; or laid in 
a very hot spider, and turned when brown. Serve with butter, 
salt, and pepper. These need to be well done. Spices, sage, 
savory, or any flavor may be added in the mixing. If herbs are 
used they should be dried and sifted. 

MEAT CROQUETTES. 

Use beef, chicken, lamb, mutton, veal or fish. To 1 pound meat 
use one-fourth pound bread crumbs, except in the case of fish, 
when potato is used. Moisten with gravy, cream, or a butter 
sauce, and mix with a beaten egg. Season with celery salt, pep- 
per and salt, but omit the celery and add catsup to the beef and 
fish mixture. Finish according to directions. 

SALMI OF DUCK. 

Cut cold duck into nice pieces. Put the bones and giblets into 
a saucepan and cover with hot water ; when it boils add 1 onion 
sliced, cloves, a bunch of herbs, pepper and salt. Cover and cook 
slowly 1 hour. Then strain, and cool suflSciently to take ofl? any 
fat that has risen to the top. Return to the fire, add, when hot, 
the pieces of duck and simmer 1 hour more. Water may be added 
if needed. Brown 1 tablespoon each of flour and butter together, 
stir into the meat, and let boil up. Arrange the duck on a platter 
and garnish with croutons, bread cut in narrow oblong, or diamond 
shapes, fried in boiling fat, or border with boiled rice. Stewed 
green peas may be added just before it is thickened. 

HASH. 

Cold meat of any kind will do, but corned beef is best ; remove 
all surplus fat and bits of gristle, season with salt and pepper, 
chop fine, and to one-third meat add two- thirds chopped cold boiled 
potato; 1 onion chopped very fine may be added. Place in the 
dripping pan, dredge with a little flour, and ix)ur in at the side of 



182 MEATS. 

the pan a little water ; put in the oven, and do not stir ; when the 
flour is light brown, and has formed a sort of crust, take out, add 
a lump of butter, and stir it through several times. Or, by cook- 
ing longer, it may be made of cold raw potatoes, which peel, slice, 
and let lie in salt and water half an hour before chopping. For 
fresh meat and potatoes, always use the proportions given above, and 
before chopping, season with pepper and salt, a chopped onion if 
liked; place in a hot skillet, moisten with water or gravy, add a 
little butter or nice beef drippings, stir often until warmed through, 
cover, and let stand on a moderately hot stove 1 5 minutes. When 
ready to dish, run the knife under and fold as an omelet, and 
serve with tomato catsup. In making veal hash use milk instead 
of water with the gravy. In making hash, meats may be com- 
bined if there is not enough of a kind. 

TURKEY HASH. 

Pick the meat off turkey bones, shred it in small bits, add dress- 
ing and fine pieces of light biscuit, mix all together and put into a 
dripping pan ; thoroughly moisten with the gravy, place in a hot 
oven 20 minutes, and serve. Or, warm the remnants of the tur- 
key over after the style of scalloped oysters. The common error 
in heating over meats of all kinds is putting them into a cold skil- 
let, and cooking a long time. This second cooking is more prop- 
erly only heating, and should be quickly done. All such dishes 
should be served hot with some sort of tart jelly. Save a can of 
currant juice, from which to make jelly in the winter, and it will 
be as fresh and delicious as when made in the summer. 

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE. 
i cup milk, 1 eggy 

1 cup flour, Pepper and salt, 

1 pound lamb chops or beefsteak. 
Beat the egg thoroughly, add the milk, and stir in the flour ; the 
mixture should be like that for batter cakes. Butter well a pud- 
ding dish ; lay in the chops, sprinkle with pepper and salt ; pour 
over the batter, and bake 1 hour. Or, cut the steak in small 
pieces, season, stir into the batter and bake. 

MACARONI AND MEAT. 

Chop lean, cold, roast beef or mutton very fine; nearly fill a 



MEATS. 183 

pudding dish with cold boiled macaroni ; in the center put th£ 
chopped meat, carefully flavored with salt, pepper, thyme, and, if 
liked, a little liquor from canned tomatoes. Pour stock or gravy 
over all ; cover with bread crumbs, add 2 tablespoons melted but- 
ter, and bake half an hour. 

PATTIES. 

Use recipe for Pyramid Pat6s, or make a puff paste, and after it 
has waited 1 hour in the ice box, or a very cold place, roll out 
quickly and cut rounds one-quarter inch thick with a biscuit cut- 
ter. Use three for a pate, cutting a small round from the centre 
of two. Lay the rings on the whole one and bake in a quick oven. 
Just before taking from the stove, glaze with the white of an egg. 
A little round may be baked to serve as a cover to each pate. 
These may be filled with the remnants of meat, poultry, fish or oys- 
ters, prepared in a tempting manner. Chicken and veal prepared 
as for croquettes make a nice filling. When the pat^s are filled 
and covered, heat through in a hot oven. Slices of stale bread, an 
inch thick, ma}'^ be cut into rounds, and a small circle cut out from 
the centre to half its depth. Fry as croquettes, and fill with 
minced chicken, turkey or meat, seasoned with its gravy. 

BEEFSTEAK PIE. 

Cut steak and a small slice of ham into dice; put them into a 
frying pan with a little butter and 2 chopped onions; let them 
simmer 15 minutes; add 1 pint sliced potatoes, 1 pint stock, with 
salt, pepper, and a little flour. Cook 20 minutes, and pour into a 
baking dish lined with a nice pastry. Cover, and bake till done. 
Or, cut beefsteak into half-inch pieces, season, lay in a dish lined 
with paste, add butter, water or stock, and a little flour; cover, and 
bake in a moderate oven. 

LANCASHIRE PIE, 

Take cold beef or veal, chop, and season as for hash ; have 
ready hot mashed potatoes, seasoned ; put in a shallow baking dish 
first a layer of meat, then a layer of potatoes, and so on, till the 
dish is full ; smooth over the top of the potatoes, and make little 
holes in which place bits of butter ; bake a nice brown. 

MEAT PIE. 

Put a layer of cold roast beef or other meat, chopped very fine, 



184 MEATS. 

in the bottom of a dish, season with pepper and salt, add a layer 
of powdered crackers, with bits of butter, a little milk, and fill the 
dish with alternate layers ; moisten with gravy or broth, or warm 
water ; spread over all a thick layer of crackers which have been 
seasoned with salt and mixed with milk and a beaten egg ; stick 
bits of butter thickly over it, cover with a tin pan, and bake from 
half to three-quarters of an hour ; remove the cover 10 minutes be- 
fore serving, and brown. Or, cover some bones with a pint of 
cold water, and let them simmer for an hour ; strain and add a 
chopped onion, 3 tablespoons Chili sauce, a level tablespoon salt, 
and the chopped meat ; let simmer a few minutes, thicken with a 
tablespoon flour mixed in water, let boil once, take off and oool ; 
put a layer of this in a pudding dish, then a layer of sliced hard- 
boiled eggs and a few slices of cold, boiled potatoes ; repeat the 
process. Cover with pastry or a baking powder crust make an 
opening in the center, and bake 40 minutes. 

MUTTON PIE. 

Spread the bottom of a baking dish with bread crumbs, and fill 
with alternate layers of cold roast mutton, cut in thin slices, and 
tomatoes, peeled and sliced; season each la3^er with pepper, salt 
and bits of butter. The last layer should be of tomatoes spread 
with bread crumbs. Bake three-quarters of an hour, and serve 
immediately. 

VEAL AND HAM PIE. 

Prepare a seasoning of 3 parts salt, 1 part pepper, and a dust 
of nutmeg. Take meat in the proportion of two-thh'ds veal to 
one- third ham, cut into thin slices, rub with the above seasoning, 
roll up and place them in a dish, adding water and chopped hard- 
boiled eggs. If the ham is very salt, use less salt and more pep- 
per in the seasoning. Parsley improves veal. Forcemeat, catsup, 
mushroom, tomato, or a little Worcestershire sauce may also be 
added. Use good pastry for the pie. 



MEATS. 



185 




SIRLOIN OP BEEP. 

In carving beef , mutton, lamb, 
pork and veal, thin, smooth slices 
are desirable. Cut across the 
grain, taking care to pass the 
knife through to the bones of the 
meat. There are two modes of 
carving a sirloin of beef ; either by cutting long, thin slices from 3 
to 4, and serving it with a bit of the fat underneath the ribs, or by 
cutting thicker slices, from 1 to 2, through the tenderloin. 

Carve a rib roast from the thick to the thin end. Before slicing 
run the knife behind and under the meat, to free it from the bones. 

HAM. 

A ham may be carved in three 
ways : First, by cutting long, 
delicate slices, through the thick 
fat from 1 to 2, down to the bone; 
second, by running the point 
of the knife in the circle in the 
middle, and cutting thin circular 
slices, thus keeping the ham moist ; and last, and most economic- 
ally, by beginning at the knuckle, 4-5, and slicing upward 
A leg of pork may be carved like ham. 

LEG OF MUTTON. 

In carving a leg of mutton the 
best slices are obtained from the 
center, by cutting from 1 to 2 ; 
and very good cuts are found on 
the broad end from 5 to 6. Some 
epicures prefer slices nearer the 
knuckle, but they are drj-. The cramp-bone is a delicacy, and is 
obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and running the knife 
under it in a semi-circular direction to 3. The fat so esteemed by 
many lies on the ridge 5. By turning over the meat excellent 
slices are found and may be cut lengthwise. 





186 



MEATS. 





SHOULDER OF MUTTON. 

A shoulder of mutton should 
be cut down to the bone, in the 
direction of the line 1, and thin 
slices of lean meat taken from 
each side. The best fat is found 
at 2, and should be cut in that 
direction. Several tempting slic- 
es may be cut on either side of the line 3, and on the under side 
near the flap. 

TONGUE. 

A tongue should be carved as 
' ' thin as a wafer ; " its delicacy 
depends in a great degree upon 
that. The center slices are con- 
sidered the best, and should be 
^^ cut across at the line 1; serve 
the slices taken from each side, with a portion of the fat which is 
at *:ts foot. 

FILLET 10F VEAL. 

Carve thin smooth slices from the top and sers^e with portions of 
the fat and dressing. In carving a breast of veal, first separate the 
breast and brisket. Carve a loin roast like sirloin of beef, and a 
rib roast like beef, but in thicker slices, and serve with the fat and 
kidney. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

jt_ A haunch of venison snould 

be cut across to the bone on the 
line 1-3-2, turn the dish a little, 
put the point of the knife at 3, 
and cut down as deep as possi- 
ble in the direction of 3-4, and continue to cut slices on the right 
and left of the line. The fattest pai-ts are found between 4 and 2. 
A loin of veal or a loin of mutton should be jointed by the butcher 
before it is cooked, and the carver easily cuts through the ribs. A 
portion of the kidney and the fat should be served on each plate. 




CATSUPS, sauces and vinegars come under this caption and 
are served with various dishes, or incorporated into others, xo 
give an appetizing or piquant flavor. 

COLD CATSUP. 

}4 peck tomatoes, }i cup salt, 

4 heads celery, }4 cup white mustard seed, 

3 white onions, 2 red peppers, 

1 cup nasturtiums, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 

1 cup horse-radish, 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, 

1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon ground cloves, 

1 quart vinegar. 
Chop ripe tomatoes and the onions and sprinkle with salt, letting 
them stand 2 hours. C hop finely the celery, red peppers and nas- 
turtium seeds, and grate the horse-radish. Mix these with the salt, 
spices, sugar, and vinegar. Drain the tomatoes and onions, mix 
thoroughly with the other ingredients, and seal in jars. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. 
3 onions, 1 tablespoon salt, 

3 red peppers, 1 quart vinegar, 

13 large ripe cucumbers. 
Pare, seed and grate the cucumbers. Let the pulp drain all 
night from a thin bag. Throw away the juice and add the salt and 
vinegar to the pulp, with finely chopped onions and peppers. Mix 
well and seal in bottles. Serve with fish. 

CURRANT CATSUP. 
3 quarts currant juice, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 

3 pounds sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves, 
1 pint vinegar, 1 teaspoon pepper, 

1 teaspoon nutmeg. 
Boil 20 minutes, then put in bottles and cork tight. 

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP. 
8 pounds gooseberries, 4 ounces cinnamon, 

4 pounds brown sugar, 3 ounces cloves, 

1 pint vinegar. 
x^ goosebeiTies should be almost ripe. Wash and put them 

187 



188 



RELISHES. 



into a porcelain kettle ; mash, scald and rub them through a coarse 
sieve ; add the sugar and boil 3 hours, then the spices tied in a 
bag, and cook a little longer. Add or omit vinegar and bottle im- 
mediately. 

GRAPE CATSUP. 

5 pounds grapes, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 
2%, pounds sugar, 1 tablespoon cloves, 

1 tablespoon allspice, % tablespoon salt, 

1 tablespoon pepper, 1 pint vinegar. 

Stew the grapes over a slow fire until soft. Then strain througb 

a sieve. Add the sugar, vinegar and spices. Boil until thickened 

and bottle. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP. 

1 ounce whole allspice, 3^ ounce ginger root, 
24 whole cloves, 1 blade mace. 

Wipe freshly-gathered mushrooms and put in layers in an earths 
en dish, sprinkling each layer with salt. Cover with a damp folded 
cloth, and let stand 36 hours in a warm place. Strain through a 
coarse sieve. To 1 quart juice add 1 ounce peppercorns ; put in 
a kettle and boil half an hour ; add the spices, let simmer gently 
15 minutes, take from the fire and cool. When cold, strain and 
seal in glass bottles. 

SUPERIOR CATSUP. 
K bushel tomatoes, 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper, 

3 tablespoons salt, 1 tablespoon allspice, 

2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon cloves. 

Slice the tomatoes, boil 1 5 minutes or till tender, strain through 
a hair sieve, add the other ingredients and cook down slowly in a 
porcelain-lined kettle to half the quantity. Three white onions may 
be added, and if verj^ sour catsup is liked one cup of vinegar, just 
before bottling ; otherwise it is no improvement. 

GREEN TOMATO CATSUP. 

4 quarts tomatoes, 2 tablespoons mustard, 

2 quarts cabbage, 2 tablespoons pepper, 
1 pint onions, 2 tablespoons ginger, 

6 pods red peppers, 1 tablespoon cloves, 

1 pound brown sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 

1 tablespoon horse-radish, 1 tablespoon mace. 

Chop finely the tomatoes, cabbage, onions and peppers j sprinkle 



RELISHES. 189 

with salt and let stand over night. Drain, add the spices and sugar 
and boil slowly- 4 hours ; it should be thick and smooth. Keep in 
bottles. 

TOMATO CATSUP. 

1 bushel tomatoes, 2 ounces allspice, 
12 white onions, 1 ounce cloves, 

2 pounds brown sugar, 2 ounces mustard, 
2 quarts vinegar, 2 grated nutmegs, 

1 pint salt. 
Select firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them with a damp cloth, and 
slice into a porcelain-lined kettle. Pour over them 3 pints water, 
and throw in the sliced onions and 2 handfuls peach leaves. Boil 
till the tomatoes are soft, which will take from 1 to 2 hours. Strain 
through a coarse sieve, return the liquid to the kettle and add the 
spices ground and mixed, the salt, sugar and vinegar. Mix well 
together before setting over the fire. Boil slowly 2 hours, stirring 
almost constantly to prevent burning. Cayenne pepper may be 
added to taste. Fill bottles and seal. Keep in a cool dry place. 

WALNUT CATSUP. 

Gather walnuts while sufficiently tender to run a needle through 
them. Pound in stone mortar. Put them into a porcelain-lined ket- 
tle, cover with water and cook slowly 2 or 3 hours. Strain, and add 
to the liquor 1 teaspoon each ground mace and cloves ; boil down 
to one-third the quantity. Fill the bottles with equal parts of the 
mixture and strong vinegar and seal immediately. A little garlic 
may be added with the spices. 

WORCESTERSHIRE CATSUP. 
1 gill walnut catsup, }i ounce cayenne pepper, 

3^ gill made mustard, 10 whole cloves, 

4 heads bruised garlic, 1 blade mace, 

6 mashed anchovies, 1 quart vinegar. 

Mix all tl e ingredients but the catsup and mustard, cover and 
let stand 18 hours. Sift and add the catsup and mustard. Keep 
2 weeks in a stone jug; then bottle and seal. 

PREPARED HORSE-RADISH. 

1 coffeecup grated horse-radish, 2 tablespoons white sugar, 

% teaspoon salt, 1 pint cold vinegar. 

Mix thoroughly and keep well corked in a large- mouthed bottle. 



^ 



SAMOS 



THE materials for salad must be fresh and of the best quality, 
and their combination harmonious. Lettuce, celery and cress 
must be washed carefully, dried lightly and handled delicately. 
Lettuce and cress should be shredded with the fingers, celery and 
cabbage cut with a knife, vegetable salads stirred as little as possi- 
ble, and all salads served the day they are prepared. All gristle, 
fat, and skin must be removed from fowl or meat, and the flesh cut 
in pieces with a knife. 

All the ingredients of a salad, as well as the bowl, fork and spoon, 
used in the preparation should be very cold, and the dressing be 
mixed in a cool place. Salad dressing cannot be made in a hurry, 
and requires both carefulness and patience on the part of the one 
who prepares it. 

Be careful that the olive oil is the best ; powder the yolks of 
hard-boiled eggs in a mortar, or rub them smooth with the back of 
a spoon ; beat the yolks of raw eggs thoroughly, and save the 
whites for cake or icing for they add nothing to the salad. Add 
the dry things to the eggs first, and if it is of the character of a 
maj'^onnaise dressing, stir well together. Add the oil, drop by drop, 
stirring or rubbing steadily and in one direction, occasionally drop- 
ping in a little vinegar to prevent cracking, or more oil to stop 
curdling. Mix until smooth and of the consistency of thick cream. 
Long practice will enable one to use nearly half a cup of oil with 
an egg. A mayonnaise dressing is very difficult to make, but a 
favorite when prepared. The juice of a lemon may be substituted 
for vinegar, but it whitens the dressing. Fresh sweet butter and 
sweet cream may be used in place of oil. A cooked dressing is 
made in a similar manner to boiled custard, beating the eggs, con. 
diments, vinegar, etc. together, and cooking in boiling water. The 
butter mav be added before the dressinsj is taken from the stove, 
but it is better not to add the cream until afterward. All except 
hot dressing should be made at least three hours before usmg. 

190 



SALADS. 191 

The following salad rhyme of Sidney Smith loses none of its 
charm through repetition: 

SALAD DRESSING. 

To make this condiment your poet begs 

The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs; 

Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, 

Smoothness and softness to the salad give; 

Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 

And, half suspected, animate the whole; 

Of mordant mustard, add a single spoon, 

Distrust the condiment that bites so soon; 

But, deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault 

To add a double quantity of salt; 

Four times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown; 

And twice with vinegar procured from town; 

And lastly, o'er the favorite compound toss 

A magic soupcon of anchovy sauce. 

green and glorious! O herbaceous treat! 
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat; 
Back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul, 
And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl; 
Serenely full, the epicure would say, 

' 'Fate cannot harm me — I have dined to-day. " 

SALAD DRESSING — 1. 

1 tablespoon mustard, 1 coffecup vinegar, 

2 tablespoons cream, 1 teaspoon salt, 

3 tablespoons butter, }4 teaspoon pepper, 

3 eggs. 

Beat the eggs, adding the salt, pepper, mustard, melted butter, 
cream or milk, and vinegar ; put in a double boiler and cook till 
smooth and thick, stirring to prevent burning. Use with cabbage 
or potato salad. 

SALAD DRESSING — 2. 
2 eggs, yolks, 2 teaspoons white sugar, 

%. teaspoon pepper, 1 teaspoon salt, 

2 teaspoons made mustard, 1 tablespoon butter, 
3^ cup vinegar, % cup milk. 

Beat thoroughly the yolks of the eggs in a bowl ; mix with the 



192 SALADS. 

other ingredients ; set in a kettle of hot water and stir constantly 
till it thickens. When cool, it is ready for use. This is sufficient 
for 3 pints of sliced cabbage, and should be thoroughly mixed with 
the cabbage before serving. 

BOTTLED SALAD DRESSING. 
8 eggs, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 

1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon salt, 

1 cup cream, 1 tablespoon mustard, 

1 cup butter, 1}4 pints vinegar, 

A pinch cayenne. 

Beat the yolks of eggs, add the other ingredients except the 
butter and mix thoroughly ; heat the vinegar, add the butter, boil 
and pour over the mixture, stir well while cooking, and when cold 
bottle and set in a cool place. It will keep for weeks in the hot- 
test weather and is excellent for cabbage or lettuce. 

GOOD SALAD DRESSING. 
3 eggs, yolks, 1 tablespoon mustard, 

1 cup vinegar, J4 tablespoon sugar, 

K cup warm water, 1 teaspoon salt, 

3^ cup cream, or butter, Cayenne pepper. 

Mix the sugar, salt, pepper, mustard and water ; when smooth 
add the cream or melted butter. Let it come to a boil ; take from 
the fire, and whip into the previously beaten eggs. Cook in boiling 
water, and when thickened, add the vinegar gradually. Use when 
cold. Or, beat the eggs and condiments together ; add the vine- 
gar and water and cook in a custard kettle until thick. Take from 
the fire and beat in the cream. In place of warm water use milk, 
and the sharpness of the vinegar will be modified. Good for use 
with any salad. 

FRENCH DRESSING. 

X cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 

Salt and pepper. 
Add salt and pepper to the oil, which must be of the finest qual- 
ity, in the proportion of twice as much salt as pepper; a little 
mustard many think is an improvement ; beat in slowly the vinegar 
that the whole may be of a creamy consistency. Vary the amount 
of vinegar according to the salad, or rub in smooth the yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg with the salt and pepper, and add vinegar and oil 



SALADS. 193 

as in a mayonnaise dressing. Use with artichokes, endive, let- 
tuce, cress, cucumbers or celery ; it may be combined with mayon- 
naise dressing. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 

2 eggs, yolks, Lemon juice or vinegar, 

Olive oil, Salt and pepper, 

1 teaspoon made mustard. 
Chill the eggs, oil, and the plate to be used. Break the eggs, 
dash a little white pepper and half a saltspoon salt into the yolks 
and mix thoroughly, adding the mustard ; add the oil drop by drop, 
stirring slowly and in the same direction. If it begins to crack 
drop in vinegar, still stirring; if it curdles use oil and keep it 
always in the form of cream. This recipe makes one large cup of 
dressing. Lemon juice may be used in making a white dressing, 
and if the oil is disliked, take melted sweet butter, but it is not 
then mayonnaise. 

MUSTARD DRESSING. 
1 egg, yolk, Yz teaspoon boiling water, 

Yz cup oil, 1 teaspoon mustard. 

Vinegar, Salt and pepper. 

Rub smooth the mustard and water with salt and pepper as in 
French dressing and stir slowly into the yolk of the ^g^. Add 
the oil drop by drop, stirring steadily and in one direction, also the 
vinegar and avoid either cracking or curdling. Both patience and 
management are required to make a nice mustard or mayonnaise 
dressing. This dressing will keep 2 weeks on ice. If the oil sep- 
arates any time it can be rubbed smooth with a few drops of 
vinegar. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD. 

Cut tender asparagus into inch pieces and throw them into cold 
water. Drain, and cook in boiling water salted in the proportion of 
1 teaspoon to 1 quart of water. Drain and let stand till cold. 
Add the dressing, mix well, and serve after standing 1 hour. 

ARTICHOKE SALAD. 

Wash thoroughly, pare, and quarter some very young artichokes. 
Serve them with salt, pepper and vinegar, and oil if liked, or cook 
them in their skins in salted boiling water until tender. Drain 



194 SALADS. 

and when cold, peel and quarter. Serve cold with French dress- 
ing. A few drops of tarragon vinegar improves the dressing. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD. 

Take nicely boiled cauliflower, separate the branches, and mix 
them with any dressing. A little tarragon vinegar and finely 
chopped parsley may be added if French dressing is used. 

CELERY SALAD. 

Cut bleached celery in inch lengths after standing 5 minutes in 
very cold water. Mix with French or mayonnaise dressing and 
serve within 1 minutes. Or, the celery may be cooked and served 
with a dressing like cauliflower salad. Or, the long stalks may be 
eaten with salt. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

3 chickens, 1 teaspoon black pepper, 

3 eggs, 4 hard-boiled eggs, 

1 pint vinegar, 2 tablespoons mustard, 

4 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons sugar, 
Celery. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Cook the chickens in salted water until tender ; when cold cut 
in small pieces, and add twice the quantity of celery cut in dice, 
and the hard-boiled eggs sliced ; mix well together. Make the 
dressing in a double-boiler. Beat the eggs thoroughly with the 
mustard, pepper, sugar and salt, and pour slowly into the vinegar 
heating in the boiler ; stir till it thickens. When cold pour over 
the salad, or just before serving. A little lemon juice may be add- 
ed to whiten the dressing ; garnish with white celery tips. 

CHICKEN OR TURKEY SALAD. 

1 pint meat, Salad dressing, 

2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 pint celery. 

Cut the meat in dice, set in the ice box 2 hours. Mix with the 
celery and eggs, cut in pieces, arrange as it is to be served and 
pour over it a liberal quantity of mayonnaise or other dressing. 
Garnish with celery tips and olives. Lettuce may be used for cel- 
ery, and celery salt or seed added to the dressing. Or, mix the 
dressing with the meat and celery and serve after standing a little 
while in the ice box. Many omit the eggs, add a little French 
dressing to the meat before setting on the ice, and a mayonnaise 



SALADS. 195 

or other dressing after the celery is mixed with the chicken and 
just before serving. 

CUCUMBER SALAD. 

Select fresh young cucumbers and chill them by keeping a few 
hours in an ice-box, cover them a short time with ice and salt. 
Peel, slice very thin, and add salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil if 
liked, just before serAing, or prepare the salad with equal quanti- 
ties of sliced cucumbers and white onions, and serve with an}'- 
French dressing. It is advisable to put a lump of ice in the cen- 
ter of the salad bowl. 

ENDIVE SALAD. 

This should be well blanched and crisp. Cut off the root and 
the dark green leaves; break the othei*s apart, wash, drain and 
serve with mayonnaise dressing. A few chives may be served 
with it 

FISH SALAD. 

Take remnants of boiled fish, or a can of salmon freshly boiled. 
Remove the skin, fat and bones, cut in small pieces, sprinkle with 
pepper and salt, add capers or whole allspice, and enough vinegar 
to stand on the top. Cover, let stand a few hours, serve on lettuce 
leaves with or without a dressing. Garnish as usual. Or, cut 
salmon, white fish or trout in small pieces, mix with an equal quan- 
tity of lettuce or cabbage, adding a few slices of hard-boiled eggs. 
Serve with any good dressing, and garnish with the heart leaves of 
lettuce. 

HAM SALAD. 
Cold boiled ham, 1 tablespoon made mustard 

2 heads lettuce, 1 tablespoon butter, 

3 eggs, yolks, K tablespoon salt, 
}4 pint sour cream, }4 tablespoon sugar, 
^ pint vinegar, 1 teaspoon pepper. 

Mix the cream, vinegar, pepper, salt, sugar and mustard, cook 

over hot water, thicken with the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and set 

in the ice box or a cold place. Cut the ham into small bits, shre^ 

the lettuce, and put both into a salad bowl. Pour the dressing over 

the mixture. Stir well and serve. Or, mix any strong dressing 

with the ham and lettuce and serve on lettuce leaves. 



196 



SALADS. 



SOUTHERN COLD SLAW. 



X cup vinegar, 
yi cup water, 
}4 cup cream, 
1 tablespoon butter, 



% teaspoon mustard, 
X teaspoon salt, 
1 teaspoon sugar, 
1 saltspoon pepper, 



2 eggs, yolks. 
Beat the eggs and condiments together and work in the butter 
while the vinegar and water are heating over the fire ; when boil- 
ing stir in the mixture, add the cabbage, previously sliced, washed 
and drained, and mix all well together. Before it begins to wilt, 
take it from the fire, pour into the salad bowl, and when partially- 
cool stir in the cream. Serve cold. The salad is nice if the cream 
is omitted. 

CREAM SALAD. 

4 quarts cabbage, 1 tablespoon mustard, 

1 pint vinegar, 1 tablespoon salt, 

1 pint sour cream, 1 tablespoon pepper, 

}i cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 

4 eggs, 1 teaspoon flour. 

Shave the cabbage very fine ; boil the vinegar, sugar, and butter 
in a saucepan ; stir in the well-beaten eggs, cream, flour and condi- 
ments ; cook thoroughly, pour over the cabbage and serve when 
cold or hot. The cream may be added just before mixing with the 
cabbage. 



^^ 





ALL varieties of soup come under the head of bouillon, broth, 
consomme or stock, and soup purees. The rules for soup 
making are very simple. First, never let the soup stop boiling 
until it is done ; second, never add water after the soup commences 
boiling. Continued boiling does not mean rapid boiling; avoid 
that, for it leaves the soup muddy, and too much evaporation takes 
place. Add fresh fuel carefully to prevent a rapid blaze or a 
deadened fire. 

Bouillon is served as a clear, strong soup at dinners, as a bever- 
age at lunches or for invalids. In the latter case it is much better 
not to clarify it except by passing it through a fine strainer. Broth 
is a thin soup, the liquor in which beef, chicken, mutton or veal is 
boiled, without any vegetables. Stock is the basis of all soups ; 
the utmost care should be used in the preparation of both stock 
and bouillon. 

Each must boil the time given in the recipe, and be strained into 
an earthen bowl. The next day take off all the f-at, and pour the 
clear part into a saucepan and boil at least one hour. Pour it into 
small jars or pitchers so that if only a small quantity is wanted for 
use, the rest of the stock need not be disturbed. 

The stock must be a firm, clear jelly, and will keep nicely in the 
ice box for a few days. The sediment or thick part of the soup is 
very nutritious and is used in a puree or thickened soup. 

Fresh, uncooked beef and cracked bones, with veal or chicken 
make the best stock. The bones, particularly the leg bones, con- 
tain the glutinous matter essential to a good soup. A^eal and fowls 
are used for white soups. Mutton is too strongh^ flavored to make 
nice stock, and veal alone has but little nutritive properties. Soups 
which make the principal part of a meal should be richer than 
those which precede a course of meats, etc. When remnants of 

197 



198 SOUP. 

cooked meats are used, chop fine, crush the bones, add a ham-bone 
or bit of ham or salt pork, the ends of roasts, and the brown fat 
of the roast ; add vegetables ; when done, strain, set away over 
night, skim off the fat, and it is ready to use. Soup made from 
cooked meats should be used immediately since it will not keep for 
stock. Soup must always be emptied from the kettle into an earthen 
dish, and it must not be covered or it will sour quickly. In very 
hot weather it is best to reheat stock daily if a large quantity is 
made. 

The meat from which gtock is made is ordinarily useless, but 
meat from a quick soup may be used in hashes, croquettes, or sea- 
soned and pressed, after mincing. 

A puree is made by boiling vegetables slowly in broth or water, 
sifting them when tender, and diluting to the consistency of thick 
cream with stock, milk or water. Purees must be well seasoned, 
and ai'e improved by the addition of eggs, cream and butter. They 
should be used within twelve hours after they are made. 

TO CLEAR SOUP. 

In forty-nine cases out of fifty it will not be neoeeeary to clarify 
soup if it is properly mada When it is desired, either raw beef 
or white of egg may be used •, but egg impoverishes the soup while 
beef enriches it. Add to every quart of cold stock half a pound 
of raw lean beef, chopped fine ; also add a scraped carrot, a small 
turnip and a leek cut in dice, to the whole amount of soup. Set 
over the fire, keep stirring and when it boils let it simmer gently 
half an hour. Strain through bags of fine, thin cloth and flannel. 
To clarify with eggs : stir into three quarts of cold soup the whites 
and crushed shells of two eggs. Place over the fire and boil ten 
minutes. Take off the fire, and after standing ten minutes, strain 
the soup through a flannel bag. Clarified soup will become cloudy 
if allowed to stand long before using. 

CEREALS AND YEGETABLES. 

Cereals. — Pearl and Scotch barley, hominy and rice are used in 
white soup. Though differently classified, arrowroot, farina, mac- 
aroni, sago, tapioca, and vermicelli are desirable for the same pur- 
pose. 

Vegetables. — In most cases it is better to cook the vegetables 



SOUP. 



199 



with the stock, to secure their strength, richness and flavor ; and 
the pulpy mass is rejected by straining. The principal vegetables 
in use are, asparagus, beans, carrots, green com, garlic, onions, 
okra, parsnips, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, and turnips. Cabbage is 
occasionally used, but in a sufficient quantity to make the princi- 
pal part of the soup. Green or dried pea, and bean soup should 
always be strained before serving. A thick soup of this character 
is called a puree. Asparagus, celery, and often tomato is served 
in the soup. 

COLORS, SPICES AND SEASONINGS. 

Colors. — The best color for soups is obtained from good materi- 
als and long cooking. Caramel, or burnt sugar, gives a rich brown 
color, grated carrot an amber hue, the juice of tomatoes a red shade, 
and pounded spinach a fine green tint Skim the soup before add- 
ing the carrot Bruise the spinach in a mortar, tie in a cloth and 
squeeze out the juice; add to the soup five minutes before taking 
from the fire. Mock-turtle soup should have this color, and it is 
sometimes used in veal and lamb soups. Okra will give a green 
shade, also parsley or celery leaves, if cooked in soup. 

Spices. — For brown soup use dark spices, like cloves and all- 
spice; for white soup, mace, aromatic seeds, and curry powder. 
The simplest and absolutely essential spices are pepper and salt, 
but too much of each will spoil any soup. Mace is especially 
adapted to chicken and oyster soup. Spiced vinegar, from sweet 
pickles or chowchow, gives a nice flavor, and catsups and sauces 
are often a great improvement 

Seasoning. — The best herbs are sage, thyme, sweet marjoram, 
tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley and bay-leaves. Gather and dry 
them as follows: parsley and tarragon in June and July, just before 
flowering ; mint in June and July ; thyme, marjoram and savory, 
in July and August ; basil and sage, in August and September. 
All herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and dried by art- 
ificial heat ; their flavor is best preserved by keeping them in air- 
tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. An agreeable fla- 
vor is given to soup by sticking cloves into a piece of meat or an 
onion ; sliced onions fried in butter, or in butter and flour, and 



200 SOUP. 

rubbed through a sieve improves the color and flavor of many soups. 
The red pepperpod cooked in the soup is preferable to cayenne 
added just before serving. Lemon and orange juice and the peel 
often impart a very fine flavor. Thickened soups require twice the 
seasoning needed for thin soups or broth. 

STOCK FOR SOUP. 
6 pounds shin of beef, 3 large onions. 

Knuckle of veal, or 2 carrots, 

1 old fowl, 1 head celery, 

8 quarts cold soft water, 6 cloves, 

Salt and pepper, Parsley, 

1 cup tomatoes. Blade of mace. 

Crack the bones well and cut the meat in pieces 3 or 4 inches 
square ; put them into a stock-pot with the salt, pepper, and water, 
and cook slowly 1 hour. Apply more heat and at the end of 2 
hours add the vegetables, with the cloves stuck into the onions. 
Cook gently but steadily 8 hours longer. Take it off, strain, and 
set away to cool. The next day remove the fat, take off the clear 
jell}'', and boil it 1 hour. Pour it into quart jars or pitchers, and 
keep it in a very cold place. This jelly may be used in various 
ways, and diluted with hot water, if desired less strong. Vegeta- 
bles must be cooked in boiling salted water before adding to the 
hot stock. Season, cook together a few moments and serve. 

White stock is used for white soups and is made as just described, 
omitting the beef and using both veal and chicken. 

To make stock of a golden color, add to the beef and veal 1 
pound ham and boil slowly 5 hours. Fr}^ the onions in a little but- 
ter, and add with the other vegetables to the soup ; omit the mace 
and tomatoes and add 1 small parsnip. Boil slowly 2 hours longer. 
Strain and let stand over night. Remove the fat, take out the clear 
jelly and mix with the broken shells and unbeaten whites of 2 eggs. 
Boil 10 minutes and strain through a jelly bag ; do not squeeze it. 
If it is not clear and a golden brown color, strain again until clear. 
Take great care to have a bright clean kettle, and scald the sieve 
before it is used. 

Any part of a raw chicken, beef bones, or pieces of raw meat 
maj' be added when the stock is first put over the fire ; but cooked 



SOUP. 201 

meat or bones will make the soup muddy. After the jelly-like part 
of the meat is taken off use the sediment remaining for thick soups. 
It is the richest part of the soup. 

To make stock successfully, follow the directions carefully, and 
never let the soup stop boiling one moment, neither add water after 
it commences to boil. 

EGG BALLS. 
6 hard-boiled eggs, yolks, 3 eggs, yolks, 

Salt and flour. 
Rub the yolks of the cooked eggs to a smooth paste ; beat the 
raw yolks with a little salt, and add gradually to the egg paste. 
Stir in just enough flour to roll into small balls and drop into boil- 
ing salted water, or broth, for 5 minutes. 

rORCEMEAT BALLS. 

Mince fine cold veal, chicken, ham or soup meat, and season 
with pepper, salt, a little lemon juice, and grated peel, or a little 
minced onion fried in butter. Mix with the beaten yolk of an egg, 
cracker or bread crumbs and roll in balls. Fry in butter 8 to 10 
minutes or poach 5 minutes in boiling water. Forcemeat, if made 
in small balls, may be served in the soup. Large balls are served 
as an entree. Parsley and thyme may be used for seasoning the 
stronger meats. 

soyer's forcemeat balls. 
1}4 pounds veal, 1 teaspoon beef suet, 

1 pound fresh suet, J^ teaspoon pepper, 

6 ounces panada, 4 eggs, 

A little grated nutmeg. 
Buy the fillet and cut into long thin slices ; scrape with a knife 
until only the fibre remains ; put the pulp into a mortar, pound 10 
minutes, and pass through a wire sieve ; use that which remains 
for soups. Skin, shred, and chop the suet fine. Pound it in the 
mortar, and add the panada, which is soft crustless bread soaked 
in milk and cooked nearly dry, and pound again. Season, mix, 
and add the eggs one by one, while the pounding is continued. 
When thoroughly mixed, take a little piece in a spoon and drop 
into boiling salted water. The forcemeat may be softened with 
cream, or made firmer with another egg. 



202 SOUP. 

SPRINGTIME SOUP. 

Large head lettuce, 1 tablespoon butter, 

Yz pint peas, Salt and pepper, 

Bunch parsley, 3 eggs, yolks, 

1 sliced onion, 2 quarts stock. 

Shred the lettuce and parsley, brown the onion in the butter, and 
put in a saucepan with the peas ; cover with water, add the salt 
and pepper and cook till tender. Bring the stock to a boil ; beat 
up the eggs with half a cup of the vegetable liquor and add with 
the hot stock to the other part just before taking from the fire. 

VEAL SOUP. 
A veal knuckle, 1 cup cream, 

3 quarts cold water, 3 eggs, yolks, 

% pound butter. Salt and pepper, 

K cup rice, tapioca, or vermicelli. 
Put the veal into a soup-kettle with the water and let it simmer 
3 hours. Strain, add salt, pepper and the rice; boil slowly till 
tender. Rice will need 30, tapioca 40, and vermicelli 20 minutes 
cooking. Add the butter. Beat the eggs in the tureen with the 
cream, and pour the boiling soup slowly over them, stirring steadily. 

VEGETABLE SOUP 1. 

1 pint cooked tomatoes. Bunch sweet herbs, 

3 onions. Pepper and salt, 

3 carrots, 2 tablespoons butter, 

3 turnips, 1 tablespoon flour, 

1 small cabbage, 1 cup sweet cream, 

Head celery, 3 quarts boiling water. 

Chop all the vegetables very fine and brown them, except the 
cabbage, in a little butter ; put them into a kettle with the boiling 
water, herbs, salt and pepper, and in 30 minutes add the cabbage 
and tomatoes. Let simmer 2 hours and rub through a sieve. Rub 
the butter and flour together, add the cream and a little sugar, stir 
into the soup and boil 5 minutes. Serve with croutons or crisped 
crackers. 

VEGETABLE SOUP 2. 

6 potatoes, 2 tablespoons butter, 

4 onions, 1 tablespoon flour, 

2 carrots, 1 pint milk, 

2 turnips, 2 quarts stock. 

Celery, Salt and pepper. 



SOUP. 



203 



Cut the ve^tables into small pieces ; put them into the melted 
butter and stir briskly 10 minutes. Then add the flour, mixed 
smoothly, and the milk. Stir till it boils, and cook the vegetables 
till tender. Season to taste, put through a colander and mix with 
the boiling stock. Let simmer an hour and serve with croutons. 

VERMICELLI SOUP. 

Break half a pound of vermicelli into pieces and cook 15 min- 
utes in boiling salted water. Drain and add to 2 quarts of rich 
boiling broth. Cook until tender, and serve. Sufficient for eight 
people. 

WHITE SOUP. 

This may be made by recipe for veal soup, omitting the rice, and 
one of the egg yolks, or by using 2 quarts chicken broth with 2 
cups of cream, and yolks of 2 eggs. Beat the eggs and cream in 
the tureen and pour in slowly the boiling broth. Season and serve 
with croutons. Or, 3 tablespoons mashed potato may be rubbed 
to a paste with a little cold broth and stirred into the boiling broth. 
When well mixed pour over the cream in the tureen and add a few 
dice of veal or chicken. 




VEGE'MBLES 



IF the hame garden furnishes the supply of vegetables, gather 
them early in the morning with the dew on them, and keep 
them in a cold place till ready to use. If vegetables must be 
bought, get them as fresh as possible. Use freshly boiled hot soft 
water for cooking them. Beans and peas should lie an hour in cold 
water before snapping or shelling. Almost all vegetables are im- 
proved by lying in cold water before cooking, though the flavor of 
strong onions is modified by lying in warm, salted water. Old po- 
tatoes should lie over night in cold water, and they are improved 
by paring before cooking. Use salt in the proportion of a heaping 
tablespoon to 1 gallon of water. Beans, beets, corn, peas, squashes, 
tomatoes and turnips are improved by adding a little sugar be- 
fore serving them. Drain vegetables in a colander as soon as 
cooked, and prepare immediately for the table. 

Always add a little soda to the water in which greens are cooked, 
to preserve their color. A small piece of red pepper, a piece of 
bread tied in a cloth, or a bit of charcoal dropped into the water in 
which strong vegetables are cooking will absorb much of the dis- 
agreeable odor. The bread should be burned when taken from the 
water. It is much better to boil the meat by itself, and pour off 
part of the water if it is desirable to cook vegetables in the liquor 
instead of putting them in with the meat. 

If watery potatoes must be cooked, add a small lump of lime to 
the water. For baking or boiling whole vegetables, carefully se- 
lect those of uniform size, and boil them steadily but not furiously. 

Old vegetables require nearly twice as much time for cooking as 
young ones. Man}'' consider that potatoes are nicer boiled in two 
waters, but the second water must be boiling and added immedi- 
ately after the first is drained off. All sliced vegetables should be 
cut across and not with the grain. All vegetables should be thor- 
oughly cooked, and they require a longer time late than early in 
the season. 



VEGETABLES. 205 

In gathering asparagus, break the stalk, do not cut it off. Below 
the point at which it will break off it is woody fibre. 

Cook asparagus, lima beans, beets, com, sliced cabbage, carrots, 
cauliflower, celery, okra, green peas, spinach and turnips, in boil- 
ing water ; add salt to the water in which string beans, cabbage, 
onions, potatoes, and squashes are boiled. Cover all vegetables 
while cooking, except string beans, green peas, spinach, and to- 
matoes. If Irish or sweet potatoes are frozen, bake or boil them 
without thawing. Cold boiled potatoes should not be pared until 
needed for use. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Scrape off the coarse skin, tie in bunches, making the tips even, 
and cut off the woody ends, leaving them of equal length. Wash, 
and lay them in boiling water, slightly salted, and cook slowly 20 
minutes, or till tender. Take out the asparagus carefully, lay it 
on thin slices of buttered toast, and remove the strings. Serve 
with melted butter, or cream sauce. 

AMBUSHED ASPARAGUS. 

50 heads asparagus, 4 well-beaten eggs, 

25 stale rolls or biscuit, 1 pint milk, 

2 tablespoons butter, Salt and pepper. 

Cut off the tender tips of the asparagus, boil in salted water till 
tender, drain and chop fine. Take the biscuits, cut off the tops, 
scoop out the inside, and put them, with the tops, into the oven to 
dry. While drying, heat the milk, stir in the eggs, strain, and 
return to the fire. When it thickens, add the butter, salt, pepper, 
and asparagus. As it begins to boil, take from the fire, fill the 
biscuit with the mixture, fit on the tops carefully, set in the oven 3 
minutes, arrange on a dish and serve. 

ASPARAGUS AND EGGS. 

Cut tender asparagus in half -inch lengths, and boil in salted 
water 10 minutes, or till tender. Beat the whites and yolks of 
6 eggs separately. Stir into the yolks 1 tablespoon each cream and 
melted butter with pepper and salt. Drain the asparagus, mix with 
the yolks of eggs, turn into a buttered saucepan, stir in the whites, 
heat through and serve. Garnish with croutons. 



208 ^VEGETABLES. 

STEWED ASPARAGUS. 

Cut tender asparagus in inch lengths, wash, drain and cook rap- 
idly in salted boiling water until tender. While it is cooking make 
a cream sauce as follows : melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan 
over the fire. When it bubbles shake in 1 tablespoon flour ; mix 
well and stir in 1 cup boiling milk, with salt and pepper. Add the 
asparagus, well-drained, and a small piece of butter. Stir care- 
fully, and serve very hot on pieces of buttered toast. 

CREAM BAKED BEANS. 
1 pint beans, 1 tablespoon sugar, 

1 cup cream, Salt. 

Soak the beans over night. In the morning drain, cover with 
boiling water and cook till tender. Put them in a bean pot or stone 
jar, add the cream, salt and sugar, and bake in a moderate oven 
till thoroughly baked. Take off the cover before they are done, in 
order to brown them. 

grandmother's BAKED BEANS.. 

1 quart dry beans, 2 tablespoons N. O. molasses, 

1 pound bacon, 1 teaspoon soda. 

Salt and pepper. 
Wash the beans in hot water, drain, put in a kettle with the ba- 
con and cover with boiling water ; boil half an hour, add the soda, 
stir well, cook 5 minutes, and skim into a bean pot. Season with 
salt and pepper, add the molasses, score the rind of the bacon, cover 
it with the beans, add boiling water till it stands on the top, and 
place in a moderate oven. Bake steadily 6 hours, adding hot water 
as they dry ; after that time, the cover may be left off and the beans 
baked as dr}" as liked. The secret of success lies in using hot water 
throughout; cold water hardens and toughens beans. The bacon 
is much nicer than pork, giving a delicate smoky flavor. This 
recipe will make three quarts when done. 

FRENCH, STRING AND WAX BEANS. 

The beans should snap when bent. String carefully, break off 
the ends and cut in 2 or 3 pieces. Let them stand 15 minutes in 
cold water. Drain; throw them into boiling salted water; cover 
and boil half an hour ; uncover, and let them cook steadilj'- 1^ 
hours if the beans are light ones, and an hour longer if they are 



VEGETABLEa 207 

the green variety. If the beans are nearly dry do not drain them , 
but add butter and sweet cream, and more salt if needed, before 
serving them. Or, cook a little piece of salt pork with the beans. 
When done, take out the pork, drain off the water, and serve with 
a little cream or cream sauce. Green shelled beans may be cooked 
in the same way ; they will be ready to serve in 30 or 45 minutes. 

DRY LIMA BEANS. 

Wash the beans in warm water, soak 3 hours and drain. Cover 
with boiling water, and cook steadily from 1^ to 2 hours, or till 
tender. Drain off the water, or if almost dry, without draining, 
add cream, butter rubbed with a little flour, salt and pepper. Take 
from the fire in 5 minutes and serve. 

SHELLED BEANS. 

Butter, cranberry, kidney, or lima beans may be used. Cover 
with cold water and soak half an hour. Throw the beans into boil- 
ing water ; add a very little salt and cook from half an hour to 2 
hours, according to variety and age. When tender, drain off the 
water, add cream, salt, pepper, and butter, and stew 10 or 15 min- 
utes longer. Select only young beans for this dish. 

BEETS. 

Choose the small smooth roots. Wash carefully, but do not 
break or cut them, else the color and sweetness will escape while 
cooking. Cover with plenty of boiling water and cook them from 
1 to 2 hours if the beets are young , if old they may require 4 or 
5 hours. When tender, drop them into a pan of cold water and 
slip off the skin. Slice, unless very small, and serve with melted 
butter, or a hot sauce of vinegar, salt, and butter thickened with a 
little flour. Or, serve cold with salt and pepper, after slicing and 
letting them stand a few hours in vinegar. Or, bake them in a hot 
oven, turning them frequently with a knife to avoid breaking the 
skin. When done remove the skin, slice and serve with butter or 
a vinegar dressing. 

BAKED CABBAGE. 
1 tablespoon butter, 2 well-beaten eggs, 

4 tablespoons cream, Pepper and salt. 

Chop finely a cold, boiled white cabbage that has been perfectly 
drained. Mix with the above ingredients, put into a buttered pud- 



208 VEGETABLES. 

ding dish, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. Serve 
hot 

BOILED CABBAGE. 

Halve or quarter the cabbage and lay in cold salted water to draw 
out the little insects hiding in the leaves. Drain well, and put into 
a large quantity of boiling salted water ; cover, and after cooking 
10 minutes, change the water, but do not cover the second time. 
A summer cabbage will cook in 30 or 40 minutes, but it will re- 
quire from 1 to 1^ hours for the winter variety. Drain very dry 
in a colander. Dress with melted butter, pepper and salt, or a 
cream sauce. Or, halve the cabbage, remove the hard center, let 
stand 2 hours in cold water, tie in a cabbage net or a thin piece of 
muslin, and cook in boiling salted water. Or, shave finely, put in 
a net and cook as usual. 

CREAMED CABBAGE. 

Slice as for cold slaw, and cook 30 minutes in boiling salted 
water. Drain, and put into a saucepan with 1 cup rich cream, 1 
tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon sugar, a little salt and pepper. Let 
simmer 3 minutes and serve. Or, put the cabbage in salted boil- 
ing water, cover closely, and cook 15 minutes. Pour off the water, 
add rich hot milk, and when tender, add butter and 1 teaspoon 
flour mixed with milk ; season, and when it boils, serve. 

PRIED CABBAGE. 

Melt 1 or 2 tablespoons butter in a hot spider. When it bubbles 
throw in sliced boiled cabbage, and fry a light brown. If a tart 
taste is desired, add 2 tablespoons vinegar before taking from the 
fire. 

HEIDELBERG CABBAGE. 

2 small red cabbages, 3 tablespoons vinegar, 

1 onion, 2 tablespoons butter, 

4 cloves, 1 teaspoon salt. 

The cabbages must be hard and firm. Halve, lay the flat side 
down, and cut across in thin slices. Put the butter, or drippings 
into a saucepan, and when hot add the vinegar and salt with the 
cabbage ; stick the cloves into the onion, and bury it in the cab- 
bage. Boil 2^ hours. If it becomes dry, and in danger of 
scorching, add a very little water. 



VEGETABLES. 



20D 



STUFFED CABBAGE. 

Cut out the heart of a large fresh cabbage. Fill the vacancy 
with forcemeat balls of chicken or veal. Tie the cabbage firmly 
together, put into cheese-cloth and boil 2 hours in a covered kettle. 

CARROTS. 

Scrape them well, and let them lie in cold water half an hour. 
Cook them in boiling water until tender. Winter carrots, if whole, 
require from 1^ to 3 hours ; summer carrots, from 30 to 45 min- 
utes. Or, slice the carrots very thin and boil until tender. 

CREAMED CARROTS. 

1 cup cream, 1 tablespoon batter, 

Salt and pepper, 1 tablespoon flour. 

Make a cream sauce according to directions, and stir in the 

boiled carrots cut in dice. Stew gently 15 minutes, add a little 

chopped parsley and serve. 

FRIED CARROTS. 

Melt some butter in a hot spider. Cut cold boiled carrots into 
long thin strips. When the butter bubbles lay in the carrots, 
sprinkle with salt, pepper and sugar, and fry till the edges are 
brown and crisp. A little finely chopped parsley is an improve- 
ment. 

LYONNAISE CARROTS. 

Chop an onion very fine and fry in a tablespoon of butter and 
nice drippings. Add the boiled carrots, cut in small dice, with 
pepper and salt. Stir, fry them golden-brown, add a little finely 
chopped parsley, mix well and serve. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Trim off the outside leaves, cut an X in the stalk, and put head 
downward into salt, or vinegar, and water for 30 minutes, that all 
insects may be drawn out. Drain well, tie loosely in a piece of 
cheese-cloth put into boiling salted water whitened with milk, and 
boil gently until tender, which will depend upon the size, one of 
medium size requiring 40 or 45 minutes. Lift it carefully by the 
cloth, drain thoroughly, put into a vegetable dish, pour over it a 
S^ cream sauce, cover a few minutes, and serve. 



iTIMFTABlfi 



1^ 



lss«8sag?„to... 






:j- 



TIME OF 
COOKING. 



TIME OF 
DIGESTION. 



Apples, sour, hard Raw 

Apples, sweet and mellow Raw 

Asparagus Boiled 

Beans, pod Boiled 

Beans, with green corn Boiled 

Beef *Roasted 

Beefsteak Broiled 

Beefsteak Fried 

Beef, corned Boiled 

Bass, fresh Broiled 

Beets, young Boiled 

Beets old Boiled 

Bread, corn Baked 

Bread, wheat Baked 

Butter,, Melted 

Cabbage Raw 

Cabbage and vinegar Raw 

Cabbage Boiled 

Cake, sponge Baked 

Carrot, orange Boiled 

Cauliflower Boiled 

Cheese, old Raw 

Chicken Fricasseed 

Codfish, dry and whole Boiled 

Custard, 1 qt Baked 

Duck, tame Roasted 

Duck, wild Rare roasted 

Dumpling Boiled 

Eggs, hard Boiled 

Eggs, soft Boiled 

Eggs Fried 

Eggs Raw 

Fowls, domestic Boiled or roasted 

Gelatine Boiled 

Goose, wild Roasted 

Lamb Boiled 

Meat and vegetables Hashed 

Milk 



Milk... 
Mutton. 
Mutton 
Onions.. 



. . . Raw 

.Boiled 
.Broiled 
.*Roast 
..Boiled 



15 to 20 m. 
45 to 60 m. 
45 to 60 m. 

15 m 

6 to 8m. 

3 to 4 hrs. 
10 m. per ft 
30 to 45 m. 
Forever . . . 

3 hrs 

45 to 60 m. 

45 to 60 m . 
60 m 

30 to 45 m. 
30 to 40 m. 

1:30 to 2 hrs 

2 hrs 

30 to 40 m . 
40 to 60 m . 

30 m 

60 m 

15 to 20 m . 

3 to 5 m. 
5 m 

2 to 3 hrs. 

2 hrs 

2 to 3 hrs. 

8 to 15 m. 

15m 

30 to 45 m . 



H. M. 

2 00. 
1 30. 



2 30. 

2 45. 

4 00, 

2 45. 



3 15. 
3 30, 



2 00. 

4 00. 

2 30. 

3 15. 

3 30. 
2 45. 

2 00. 

4 00. 

3 00. 
3 30. 



1 00. 

2 30. 
2 30. 



3 15. 



210 



COOK'S TTMB TABLB— <X)NTINUED. 



211 



TIME OF 
COOKING. 



TIME OF 
DIGESTION. 



Oysters Roasted 

Oysters Stewed 

Parsnips Boiled 

Pig's feet Boiled 

Pork *Roast 

Pork, ham Boiled 

Pork > Broiled 

Pork Fried 

Potatoes Baked 

Potatoes Boiled 

Potatoes Roasted 

Rice Boiled 

Salmon, fresh *Boiled 

Sausage Fried 

Soup, chicken Boiled 

Soup, oyster or mutton Boiled 

Soup, vegetable. Boiled 

Spinach Boiled 

Tapioca Boiled 

Tomatoes Fresh 

Tomatoes Canned 

Trout, salmon, fresh Boiled or fried 

Turkey Roasted 

Turnips Boiled 

Veal Broiled 

Venison steak Broiled 

* To the R). 



3 to 5 

3 to 5 

30 to 45 


m. . 
m. . 
m. . 


15 m 


4 to 5 hrs . . 




30 to 45 
30 m . . . 


m. . 


30 to 45 
30 to 45 
10 m. . . 


m. . 

m. . 


15 m 


3 to 4 hrs.. 
3 hrs 


3 to 4 hrs.. 
20 to 30 m . . 
60 m 


20 to 30 
15 to 20 
15 m. . . 


m. . 
m. . 


3 hrs 1 


30 to 45 


m. . 


8 to 10 


m. . 



H. M. 

3 30. 

2 30. 

1 00. 

5 15. 



3 30. 
2 33. 
1 00. 



2 00. 



30. 
25. 
30. 
00. 
30. 





ft) 



oz. 



1 quart sifted flour — 16 ounces Equals 

1 quart sifted Indian meal 

1 quart powdered sugar 

1 quart granulated sugar 

1 quart coffee "A" sugar 

1 quart best brown sugar 

1 pint closely packed butter 

10 medium-sized eggs 

4 cups sifted flour 

2% cups powdered sugar 

2 cups granulated sugar 

2^2 cups best brown sugar 

Butter size of an egg 

1 tablespoon of butter, heaped 

1 pint of water or fruit juice 

16 fluid ounces, or 4 gills, or 1 pint 

1 cup water, or 2 gills 

1 wineglass of rose water 

1 tablespoon, or 4 teaspoons 



Luals 


1 






1 


4 




1 


7 




1 


9 




1 


8 




1 


10 




1 






1 






1 






1 






1 
1 








2 






2 




1 






1 








8 






2 






K 



4 gills=l pint; 
2 pints«=l quart; 
4 quarts=l gallon; 



16 drams (dr.) 

16 ounces=l pound (lb.) 

25 pounds=l quarter (qr.) 



60 drops==l teaspoon; 
2 teaspoons=l dessertspoon; 
2 dessertspoons=l tablespoon; 
2 saltspoons=l teaspoon, dry. 

AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 
1 ounce (oz.) 4 quarters=l hundred weight 



(cwt.) 
2000 pounds=l ton (T.) 



WEIGHTS OF ARTICLES. 

Apples, dried, bushel, 25 pounds. Flour, barrel, net, 
Beef, firkin, 100 

Pork, barrel, 200 

Beans, bushel, 60 

Butter, firkin, 56 

tub, 84 

Peaches, dried, bushel, 33 
Fish, barrel, 200 

*' quintal, 112 



196 pounds. 
Honey, gallon, 12 " 

Molasses, hhd., 130 to 150 gallons. 
Salt, barrel, 3>4 bushels. 

'* bushel, 70 pounds. 
Sugar, barrel, 200 to 250 pounds. 
Soap, barrel, 256 " 

♦• box, 75 *' 

Tea, chest, 60 to 84 '* 



212 



.:i."\.v^ 



w. 



FOODS. 



HYGIENIC AND SCIENTIFIC 

At this age of applied science it has become the duty of every 
housewife to know something of the food with which she supplies 
her household. Most persons have had some vague ideas of the 
relative values of different foods, and of the changes they undergo 
in cooking. These theories they have probably learned from their 
mothers, gleaned from their neighbors, or read in some paper. Per- 
haps they have accepted them as facts, but at some time or other 
they read or hear something that contradicts them and then they are 
at a loss to know what to believe or what not to believe. At some 
time they have been convinced that people ate too much, at another, 
that meat was the all-strengthener, or they may have been afflicted 
with the vegetarian fad. Surely they would not have pinned their 
faith to one-sided diets if they had rightly comprehended the main 
facts of nutrition. 

In the following pages an effort has been made to present some- 
thing of the facts in regard to the composition of food, the part the 
different kinds of foods take in the nutrition of the body, together 
with something of the change that is effected by cooking and the 
process of digestion. 

Foods are classified by all leading authorities, excluding the 
oxygen we breathe, into five great classes. 

1. Water, 3. Proteids, 

3. Fats, 4. Carbohydrates, 

5. Salts or mineral constituents. 

WATER. 

Water, in one sense is not a food, but it fills one of the most im- 
portant offices in the nutrition of the body. It constitutes about 
three-fourths of the weight of the body. It is found in the mus- 

213 



214 



WOODS, 



cles and bones, but abounds in the blood and seci'etions. It holds 
in solution the important material they contain, and by giving the 
necessary fluidity to the blood transports this material to the dif- 
ferent parts of the body and conveys away that which has fulfilled 
its mission. 

Water is also the great regulator of heat, and by its evaporation 
reduces any excessive temperature of the body. 

Besides the water we take in the form of beverages, we obtain 
some in all of our solid food. The amount contained in them va- 
ries from 1 to 98 per cent. The vegetables, such as cabbages, car- 
rots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, onions, parsnips, squash, tomatoes 
and turnips, and also the different fruits, are mostly water. 

PHOTEIDS. 

The pre teids are also known as albuminous foods, and nitroge- 
nous or flesh-forming foods. The latter is the most significant and 
is so-called because this class of foods contains a large proportion 
of the element nitrogen. 

We find nitrogen in our muscles and muscular tissues. We also 
find it the product of their decomposition. Hence, if the wear of 
these tissues causes the liberation of nitrogenous compounds, this 
loss must be replaced by some food that contains nitrogen. The 
fats and carbohydrates do not. Besides this function, the pro- 
teids are considered as the stimulating foods, or those that impart 
a speed and energy to the organs above that necessary to perfect 
nutrition. 

The nitrogenous foods are derived from both the animal and veg- 
etable kingdoms and are found in eggs, lean meat, fish, milk, cheese, 
leguminous plants and the cereals. The different proteid principle 
of each is known as albumen, fibrine, casein and gluten. 

The digestion of this class of foods is not well known. In the 
mouth they should be finely comminuted, as the chemical action 
is rapid in proportion to the fineness of division. The first chem- 
ical change takes place in the stomach, and the agents are pepsin 
and the acid of the gastric juice. The two together render the 
nitrogenous substance soluble and capable of passing through a 
membrane. 



FOOI>S. 215 

EGGS. 

[Rie proteid of the egg is known as albumen, from albus, mean- 
ing white. Eggs contain 73.67 per cent water, 12.55 per cent al- 
bumen and 12.11 per cent fat. They are considered by some 
physiologists to be the most easily digested of this class of foods. 
Phj^sicians say that they are as digestible raw as cooked. 

The raw white of an egg is a colorless, semi-liquid and viscous 
substance, soluble in cold water. If we place some in a glass tube 
with a thermometer and heat it, we will observe the following 
changes. When the temperature of 134^ is reached white fibers 
appear; at 160** the whole mass becomes white and quite opaque. 
It is now coagulated, and in this condition is a tender, delicate 
and jelly-like substance, and is easily digestible. Heated to 212® 
it shrinks and becomes hard. If it be subjected to a higher tern* 
perature it becomes a homy and tough substance quite indigestible. 

This experiment teaches a great deal that is little understood. 
It shows that the cooking temperature of albumen is not 212**, the 
boiling point of water, but 160**, and accounts for the indigestibility 
of fried and hard-boiled eggs. 

MXAT. 

Under this head is included the flesh of all animals used for 
food: beef, veal, mutton, pork, poultry and game. 

In the eating of animal flesh, man takes advantage of the work 
done by the animal in the preparation of vegetable food. If we 
examine a piece of lean meat we find that the red part is made up, 
first, of very tiny, sausage-like bags, or muscle fibers, as they are 
called, and in these are contained the precious proteid flavors, salts, 
and water, all mixed together; second, the muscle fibers are bound 
together by a connective tissue; third, floating in the j uices between 
the fibers and tissues is more proteid. 

By analysis of beef that is medium fat, we find it is 72. 25 per 
cent water, 21.93 per cent proteid, and 5.19 per cent fat. The 
lean of well-fatted animals contains as much as 20 per cent less 
water. One fact worthy of mention is that while the price of the 
tender parts of the animal is high, they contain no more nutri- 



223 FOODS. 

ment than the cheaper cuts. Indeed, the price seems to be in ex- 
act inverse ratio to the amount of nutriment contained. 

In cooking meat the connective tissue should be softened and 
loosened so that the little bundles of fiber, which contain the nutri- 
ment, may fall apart easily when brought in contact with the fork 
or teeth; the albumen and fibrine should be coagulated, not horn- 
ified. By cooking a more agreeable flavor is developed. 

The albumen of the meat is identical with that of the egg. If 
lean meat is chopped fine and allowed to stand in cold water an 
hour, we will find that the water has become red. The water has 
dissolved the albumen, coloring matter, and flavors. If this liquid 
be heated, the albumen will coagulate and at a temperature below 
the boiling point. 

It should be recognized in the different methods of cooking meat 
that there are just three different results to be obtained : first, to 
retain all the nutriment in meat, as in broiling, roasting, frying, 
and boiling ; second, to extract it into the water, as in soups and 
meat teas ; third, to have it partly in the meat and partly in the 
water, as in stews. 

BROILING. 

True broiling is cooking directly over red-hot, glowing coals. 
The meat is cooked by radiant heat, and it is the hottest form of 
cooking. The object to be obtained is to keep the juices within 
the meat. How is it to be accomplished? We have seen that heat 
coagulates albumen. Have the meat cut in a slice, from an inch to 
an inch and a half in thickness, and placed in a broiler. Put it 
directly over the coals and very near to them. The albumen on 
the outside is instantly seared, and thus hardened presents a bar- 
rier through which the juices cannot escape. Before they have an 
opportunity of rising and passing out from the other side, we turn 
the meat and the second side is treated to the same process. 

Now, by allowing the meat to remain a few minutes over the 
coals tlie water inside is heated , to ISO''. The heat of the water 
coagulates the albumen, and the combined presence of liquid and 
heat softens the connective tissues. Some of the water is changed 
to steam and this gives the meat a puffed appearance. When these 



FOODS. 217 

three things are accomplished, the meat is cooked, and when eaten 
it is found to be juicy, tender, and well-flavored. One other thing 
has been done, namely, the browning of the surface. This is due, 
probably, to the caramelizing of the albumen, and it is found to 
possess an entirely different flavor, but one that is very agreeable. 

Had the cooking of the steak been prolonged, the result would 
have been an ill-cooked specimen, tough, desiccated, shriveled and 
tasteless, due to the evaporation of the juices, the loss of the vol- 
atile flavors, and the consequent hardening of the albumen and 
tissue. 

As broiling is a very quick method of cooking, only meat of 
very tender fiber is suitable, as there is neither time nor moisture 
to soften that which is tough. 

Are not these facts forcible enough to settle the question as to 
whether meat is more digestible rare than well done? The preju- 
dice against rare-done meat is largely due to an erroneous idea of 
what is meant by that expression. Order a rare-cooked steak at 
any restaurant or hotel, and the waiter will set before you one that 
is raw in the inside. This is a raw steak and not a rare one. A 
rare steak is pink throughout, and not purple anywhere. 

ROASTING. 

Roasting is identical with broiling, except that we have the 
meat in a cubical form, and a smaller surface in proportion to the 
weight. The surface may be seared by a hot oven, in a frying 
pan, or by a bath in hot fat. 

BOILING. 

As in boiling we have additional moisture, and a longer time 
may be used in the cooking, meat of a tougher fiber may be ap- 
propriately cooked by this method. The imprisonment of the 
juices is accomplished by immersing the meat in the boiling water, 
which coagulates on the outside. After boiling for 10 minutes, 
the temperature should be lowered to 180^ as we do not wish the 
inside temperature to be higher than that. More or less of the 
nutriment finds its way into the water, consequently this liquid 
should be utilized. 

While on the subject of boiling, it will not be out of place to 



218 FOODS. 

say something in regard to a fact which is not practically under- 
stood by cooks. We have learned by the preceding experiment 
that the cooking point of meat is not the boiling point of water. 
But many foods, especially vegetables, are best cooked at the boil- 
ing temperature. If a thermometer be placed in water while be- 
ing heated, the mercury will steadily rise until the water is boil- 
ing, or 212*^ is reached, when it will become stationary and remain 
so although much additional heat be applied, and the water be 
made to boil violentl}'. If this fact were understood and observed, 
much precious fuel might be saved. When the boiling point is 
once reached, very little heat is needed to keep it at this point. 
All the surplus heat is spent in changing the water to steam. For 
all ordinary cooking, gently boiling water is as effective as if it 
boils rapidly. 

FRYING. 

In frying, which is properly cooking by immersion in hot fat, 
the cooking medium is fat, instead of water as in boiling. The 
temperature of the fat should be about 385". As any escape of 
water into the hot fat causes great commotion, an additional pre- 
caution is taken by enveloping the meat or food to be fried, in a 
coating of crumbs, and eggs, or in the case of mixtures, as dough- 
nuts, the egg is added to the mixture itself. This also prevents 
the food from absorbing fat. The reason of this is obvious. 

SOUP-MAKING. 

In soap-making, a contrary result is to be obtained from that of 
boiling and roasting. The juices are to be transferred to the 
water. Meat that is so tough and coarse as to be undesirable for 
cooking by any other method, may be utilized by this one. We 
have seen that the juices and albumen of meat are readily soluble 
in cold water, and this principle should be applied by allowing the 
meat to stand in cold water for at least an hour, and in order that 
more surface be exposed to its action the meat should be cut into 
small pieces. It may then be heated to a temperature of 200", 
that degree being necessary to dissolve the gelatine of the bones. 
The skimming and clearing of soups should be avoided if a nutri- 



FOODS. 219 

tious soup is desired, for by so doing we remove the coagulated 
albumen, 

STEWING. 

In stewing we eat both the meat and broth. It is a desirable 
method for cooking the tougher and cheaper parts of meat. Braiz- 
ing and pot^roasting are forms of stewing, and are methods with 
which every housekeeper should be familiar if economy is an item 
of consideration. 

PISH. 

Fish, because of its abundance, cheapness, and wholesomenees, 
is an invaluable article of food. It contains more water and less 
solid material than meat, is rich in nitrogen, and has an alkaline 
taste. 

Red-blooded fish, as salmon, mackerel, and blue fish, have the 
oil distributed through the body, whUe the white fish, as cod, had- 
dock, halibut and flounder, have it in the liver. The latter fish is 
very digestible when perfectly fresh. Fresh fish may be told by 
the fullness of the eye and the firmness of the flesh. 

CHEESE. 

Cheese is the coagulated casein of milk, together with some fat 
and sugar. The casein, the albumen of milk, is coagulated by an 
acid obtained from rennet. By allowing the cheese to ripen, a fer- 
ment is developed. The presence of this ferment is the reason 
that a small quantity taken with food aids in digestion. 

Milk cheese contains 48. 02 percent, water, 32.65 per cent, pro- 
teid, 8. 41 per cent, fat, and 6. 80 per cent, sugar. Comparing this an- 
alysis with that of meat, we find it to be much richer in proteids. 
This, together with its low price, makes it a valuable substitute 
for the more expensive meat. It is much used as such in many 
countries of Europe. It is not considered easy of digestion. 

GELATINE. 

Gelatine is a substance obtained from the bones, the gelatinous 
tissues of animal flesh, and from certain parts of fishes. 

If its nutritive value could be estimated by the nitrogen it con- 
tains, it would, indeed, rank high. Its value as a food, and the 
part it performs in nutrition, is not fully understood. Exagger- 



220 ^"'C^ODS. 

ated ideas of its value have been entertained. Our grandmothers 
believed it to be highly nutritious, prepared it in the form of jel- 
lies for invalids, and estimated the value of their soups by the 
consistency of the jelly they formed on cooling, which thickness is 
due to the gelatine they contain. No doubt many a victim has 
died of starvation by the reliance of nurses upon this theory. 

It has been demonstrated that gelatine alone cannot sustain 
life, but it is now believed that if taken in conjunction with other 
food it is of some worth. Its inability to sustain life may be ac- 
counted for by the fact that it is not changed in digestion, so that 
it will pass through a membrane readily, and therefore only a small 
portion can pass into the circulation. Nevertheless it is not un- 
wholesome, and is a convenient vehicle for conveying food, partic- 
ularly to invalids. 

LEGUMINOUS FOODS. 

Under this head are peas, beans, and lentils. Beans contain 
14.84 per cent, water, 23.66 per cent, proteids, 1.63 per cent, fat, 
49.25 per cent, starch, and 7.47 per cent, woody fiber. Peas 
contain 14.31 percent, water, 22.63 per cent, proteids, 1.72 per 
cent, fat, 53. 24 per cent, starch, and 5. 45 per cent, of woody fiber. 

Observe the remarkable percentage of proteids they contain. The 
legumes are less stimulating and palatable than meat, but the pro- 
teid needs of the body can be supplied by them. One of the best 
ways of serving them is in the form of a soup, as then the hull is 
entirely removed. 

CEREALS. 

Under this head are included corn, wheat, oats, barley, buck- 
wheat, and rice. The following is the analysis: 













WOODY 




WATER, PEOTEID, 


FAT, 


SUGAR, 


STARCH, 


FIBER, 




per ct. per ct. 


per ct. 


per ct. 


per ct. 


per ct. 


Wheat, 


13.56 12.43 


1.70 


1.44 


66.45 


2.66 


Rye, 


15.26 11.43 


1.71 


.96 


66.86 


2.01 


Barley, 


13.78 11.16 


2.13 




65.51 


4.80 


Oats, 


12.92 11.73 


6.04 


2.22 


53.21 


10.83 


Maize, 


13.88 10.05 


4.76 


4.59 


62.19 


2.84 


Rice, 


14.41 6.94 


.51 




77.61 


.08 


Too much cannot be said 


in favor of these grains^ par 


ticularly of 



FOODS. 221 

corn, wheat, and oats. They contain all the elements necessary 
for the complete nutrition of the body, and in wheat they are in 
the correct proportions. Corn and oats contain an excess of fat. 
The proteids of these grains are known as gluten. Their low price 
places them within the reach of all. They are prepared as a break- 
fast food and are ground as meal and flour. 

CARBOHYDRATES. 

This third great division of foods includes the starches and 
sugars. They, together with the fats, are classed as the carbona- 
ceous foods, because they contain a large proportion of the ele- 
ment carbon. The carbohydrates contain carbon, and the elements 
of water, hydrogen and oxygen, not as water, but in the same pro- 
portion as water, namely, two parts of hydrogen to one of oxygen. 
The carbonaceous foods are the great heat-producing foods, and 
just as the carbon and hydrogen of fuel unite with the oxygen of 
the air and produce heat, so the carbon and hydrogen of our food 
unite with the oxygen of the air we breathe and produce the heat 
of our bodies. Besides this office the carbohydrates are probably 
the great source of energy, and a portion of them may be depos- 
ited in the body as fat. They are of vegetable origin. 

STARCHES. 

Starch is a white, glistening powder, insoluble in cold water, and 
when heated with water, swells, and the starch grains burst, forming 
a thick gummy solution. When cool it stiffens into a pasty mass. 
Starch is eaten chiefly in the form of arrowroot, tapioca, sago, rice, 
potatoes, cereals, and the legumes. But from whatever source de- 
rived, the chemical composition is the same. Cg H^^^ 0^. The 
starches are the cheapest of the food constituents, and are there- 
fore apt to be in excess. They give the necessary bulk to our food. 

Starch, when heated to a high temperature, is changed to dex- 
trine, which does not differ from starch in chemical composition. 
Dextrine is a brittle solid and soluble in cold water. It has an 
agreeable, sweet flavor. It is produced in small quantities in the 
crust in the baking of bread and in the making of toast. In di- 
gestion the starch is changed to glucose. This is accomplished by 



222 FOODS. 

the heat of the body and the action of the saliva of the mouth and 
the pancreatic juice in the intestines. 

SUGARS. 

The sugars are a more expensive form of heat-producers, and 
are used chiefly for their flavoring qualities. They are closely re- 
lated to the starches and nearly resemble them in chemical compo- 
sition. They are known by their sweet taste and are soluble in 
cold water and are capable of breaking up into alcohol and carbon 
dioxide. They are valuable for their preserving qualities. 

There are different varieties of sugar, but the most important to 
us are cane sugar or sucrose, and grape sugar or glucose. Su- 
crose, Cjg Hgg Oj^, is common sugars 'and is obtained from the 
sugar cane, sugar beet, and rock maple. It is the sweetest of all 
the sugars, and is soluble in one-third of its weight of water. Su- 
crose, when boiled in contact with air, and especially if an acid be 
present, becomes changed into two kinds of sugar; dextrose Cg H^^ Og , 
identical with glucose and levulose, Cg H^^ O^. Thus their chem- 
ical composition is identical. Both kinds are often called glucose. 

Glucose is found in grapes and is present in the sacs of flowers; 
it is the source of honey. Griucose can be manufactured from all 
kinds of starch and from cellulose, by the action of acids. It is 
quite an easy matter to change a cotton handkerchief into more 
than its own weight of sugar. Glucose has one-third less sweets 
ening power than sucrose, and this is the reason that when sugar 
is boiled with acid fruits it becomes less sweet. 

The changes that sugar undergoes in digestion are not fully un- 
derstood, yet it is certain that sucrose is not absorbed, as such, 
but is converted into glucose before it is assimilated. This change 
is probably effected by the acid of the gastric juice. 

FATS. 

This class of food is known to the housewife as butter, cream, 
salad oil, suet and lard. It is taken in the fat of meat, the oil of 
fish, in eggs, in the cereals and legumes. Fats are lighter than 
water and insoluble in it, but soluble in ether. They are of animal 
and vegetable origin. In whatever form they are known they are 



FOODS. 223 

composed of but three different fats, olein, stearin, and pal matin 
or margarin. 

Olein is colorless and liquid above the freezing point. It is the 
principal fat of olive oil, but is found in the more solid fats to a 
greater or less degree. The solidity and liquidity of the different 
fats depend upon the proportion of olein they contain. 

Stearin is a solid fat and remains so at quite a high tempera- 
ture. Stearin is the chief fat of mutton, and it is this peculiarity 
of stearin that causes the mouth to become coated with fat when 
eating a mutton chop. It is also a constituent of suet. Palmatin 
resembles stearin, but is liquid at a lower temperature. It is found 
in butter. 

These fats are compounds of the fatty acids, olein, stearin, and 
palmatin, with glycerine. They are called acids, not because they 
have a sour taste, but because they unite with a base as acids do. 
Glycerine, the base, is the sweet principle of oil. B}^ further anal- 
ysis we find that the fats are compounds of carbon, hydrogen and 
oxygen. They contain a larger proportion of carbon and oxygen 
to hydrogen than the hydro-carbons do. The difference in the taste 
of the different fats is due principally to the flavoring they con- 
tain. This, almost alone, makes the difference in their prices. 

The digestibilit}^ of the different fats depends mainly upon the 
readiness with which they liquify. We might be able to digest 
beeswax if it would become liquid at the temperature of our bodies. 
Cream is the most easily digested and butter follows next. The 
fats are unaffected by the juices of the mouth and stomach. In 
the intestines they are emulsified by the admixture of the bile, and 
can then pass through a membrane into the circulation. 

Besides the value of fats as heat-producers, for which purpose 
they excel the starches and sugars, they are deposited as adipose 
tissue, aid in the lubrication of the muscles, and, without doubt, 
are a source of energy. 

YEAST. 

Yeast is a plant of the fungus growth. It is found to consist 
of numberless minute rounded cells. Each little cell consists of 
an enveloping membrane containing a liquid. They grow by bud- 



224 



FOODS. 



ding and division. When they are provided with suitable food, | 
moisture and warmth they grow yevy rapidl}^ Eye and grapes are 
congenial foods, and also sugar or something that can be changed 
into sugar. It is supposed that these 3'east germs are present in 
the air. They are killed by the boiling and freezing temperatures. 

BREAD. 

The process by which the present bread is made light and porous 
is known as the alcoholic fermentation. Yeast is the agent used 
to accomplish this. In the mixing of the dough each little grain 
of flour is surrounded by a film of water and the yeast plants are 
scattered throughout the mass. Now, the yeast plants have food 
in the starch and the sugar ; moisture, in the water or milk, and 
warmth, as the dough should have a temperature of about 75®. 
They soon begin to grow. The starch of the flour is changed to 
glucose. 

Ce H„ 0, + H, + ferment = C, H,, O, 

starch, water, glucose. 

This glucose is quickly changed into alcohol and carbon di-oxide. 

r 2 Cg Hg alcohol, 
Ce H,, 0, = ] and 

(^ 2 C O3 carbon di-oxide. 

Carbon di-oxide is a gas and is commonly known as carbonic 
acid gas. It is the evolution of this gas that is set free from all 
parts of the dough which causes it to rise and increase in bulk. 
In the baking of a loaf of bread this gas is expanded and partially 
driven out by the heat. The starch cells are ruptured ; the cells 
which contain the gas are hardened ; the yeast plant is killed ; the 
alcohol is evaporated, and some of the starch of the crust, being 
heated to a higher temperature, is changed to dextrine. The tem- 
perature of the inside of the loaf does not exceed 212®. 




EVERY WOMAN'S 
LIBRARY 

Edited by Margaret E. Sangster, Dr. Emma E. Walker, 
Hamilton W. Mabie and others. 

Covers Every Phase oi Woman's Realm 

No book ever published contains so much value to the up- 
to-date woman as this set of Every Woman's Library. 
Each volume is full of practical, needed advise on Health 
and Beauty .Etiquette, Entertaining, Housekeeping, Cook- 
ing, Reading and Study, Home Life and Ways of earning 
money; and is written by the leading authorities on women's 
subjects. 

There are seven volumes in the set, and each volume is 
devoted to one subject as follows: 

Vol. I Beauty and Health, by Dr Emma E. Walker 

Vol. II Etiquette, by Eleanor B. Clapp 

Vol. in Entertainments and Games, by Clara E. 
Laughlin. 

Vol. IV House and Housekeeping, by Mary Eliza- 
beth Carter. 

Vol. V Home and Home Study, by Hamilton W. 
Mabie and Henry van Dyke. 

Vol. VI Ideal Home Life, by Margaret E. Sangster 
and Marion Harland. 

Vol. VII Woman's Ways of Earning Money, by 
Cynthia Westover Alden. 

Each volume is bound in uniform pea green cloth, neatly 
stamped design. Printed in good sized readable type on 
good quality paper. Each volume is 4 x 6i inches and con- 
tains nearly 300 pages. Each set of volumes packed in a 
box. sent prepaid for $2.00 or given free for securing only 
6 yearly subscriptions for EVERY WOMAN'S MAGAZINE 
at 50 cents each. 



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CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Bread 7 

Breakfast and Tea Cakes 27 

Crullers and Doughnuts 67 

Cake 58 

Cookies and Jumbles 71 

Confectionery 76 

Cook's Time Table 209 

Desserts 85 

Drinks 108 

Eggs 112 

Fish 118 

Fruits 124 

Fruit Sauces 156 

Fillings for Layer Cake 67 

Foods — Hygienic and Scientific 212 

Griddle Cakes 56 

Ginger Bread ,. 7S 

Ginger Snaps 74 

How to Carve Meat 184 

Icing 68 

Ice Cream and Ices 161 

Meats ; 167 

Nut Wafers 75 

Pastry 97 

Puddings 104 

Pudding Sauces 105 

Relishes 186 

Salads : 189 

Soups 196 

Table of weights and Measures 211 

Toasts 93 

Vegetables 203 



m 13 1911 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



^^C 13 j^^j 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 489 509 5 * 



